SuzukiHayabusa.org
TECHNICAL => MODS => Topic started by: warezdog on March 05, 2008, 06:11:42 PM
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07 busa, motor untouched (if the motor is untouched I call it stock, I think the majority will agree with that)
TRE $35
USBIII $242
PAIR VALVE $12
SMALL BOX MOD $30 bought here
HMF 4 2 2 $600 bought here
custom map dyno at 171 http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/index.php?topic=78904.0 he made 170!
Queston is can it go 200 now OR do I have to get into gears?
If I have to get into gears is there a sweet spot/perfect pair where I won't have to change length of chain?
Oh sure I'd love to go boost but the idea here is to join the 200 club by makin cheap ponies!!
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Honestly, you got the right idea. You're going to hear a lot of different answers. The bike, all things being good, lots of air in tires and a clean chain/oil will go about mid 190's if you're not 300 lbs and against a headwind. To get to 200 takes a LOT of work because it's so hard to push the bike that extra 5 mph. But there is one more mod that I think will get you there,
Worldwide ceramic wheel bearings. About $400. Not cheap, but they will make a very big difference in acceleration and it will help with your top speed. The level of acceleration that you get with these, when you're already doing 100 mph, is noticeable. The bike, really, just feels that it's not be held back (unbelieveable, I know, when you're on a Busa). The bearings help a lot.
Some others;
K&N/BMC - clean filter, no lube
Ditch the ram air duct metal grates on the front of the bike. Some will say this does nothing, but I swear to god I felt it smooth out just a little bit doing this. You're filter will catch the bug pieces anyway.
Do NOT over tighten the rear axle. Or the front one for that matter.
Some one on here posted a guy that will drill up/out your stock rr rotor to make it look like a wave rotor. Saves weight, and rotating mass. Throw on some Ti rotor bolts while your at it. You only need 6, and that doesn't cost too much....
Adjust TPS to make sure it's correct.
Remove mirrors, bar ends.
Tuck tuck tuck tuck and get your ass far back into the seat. Get as low as possible, bring your elbows in, legs in. Full leather suit, no flappy jeans!
Got a mud flap? Ditch it. Remove rr seat/grab handle, use speed hump (I know I know, obvious).
$17 ($14?!) R1 throttle mod. Don't want you killing your wrist now holding it open.
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Worldwide ceramic wheel bearings. About $400. Not cheap, but they will make a very big difference in acceleration and it will help with your top speed. The level of acceleration that you get with these, when you're already doing 100 mph, is noticeable. The bike, really, just feels that it's not be held back (unbelieveable, I know, when you're on a Busa). The bearings help a lot.
You've tested these back to back with hard data to support this statement I assume ?
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I won't have it all together in time for texas in march but Oct for sure unless there is another sanctioned run within 600 miles of Tampa.
Right after the the next service at 3500-4000 and go synthetic I'll rip it apart.
I forgot to mention the undertail is already in and aluminum sub.
Honestly I'd rather put 400 bucks into pads, lines, and ZG DB screen first, the wave rotors are nice and all but not in my budget for the payoff, heck I passed on a 5" over arm @ $300!! Powder coated black to match the 07!!
I'm a cheap bastard by nature and my goal was to buy a stocker, try to dump under a grand, some sweat, and come out with a 200mph bike, something that would get the average guy like myself that 200 mph cert with a little money and some efforte.
Bonnieville would be nice but at 5000 ft above sea level and you're losing a good percentage of hp, the hat is really cool though!
Oh well, Texas this year doing it budget to prove my theory, and if I can save $3-5K by fall of 09 for a stage 2 then I'll try bonnie.
This board has a ton of good info, for a mid age old fart llike myself and a little hands on, these bikes are truly the modder/enthusiants dream.
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You've tested these back to back with hard data to support this statement I assume ?
I don't have to. I'm just a customer. And I noticed a difference myself. A difference of acceleration, smoothness, and more importantly, acceleration when you're already at a high rate of speed.
However, feel free to ask any landspeed, AMA, WSB, & MotoGP racer. The very high majority of them all use ceramic wheel bearings for a reason. They work. While you're at it, feel a regular bearing removed from a wheel, and spin it in your hand. Then do the same with the ceramics. Just on that alone, you will feel a difference of how much smoother the ceramics are.
Now, imagine how fast it's spinning when you're doing 100, 150, 200 mph. The ceramics offer far, far less parasitic loss (?) than regular bearings.
Lastly, I don't know who it was, someone on this site, actually DID do a back to back test. He ran about 198 at Bonne, I think. With no other changes except for swapping to ceramic wheel bearings, he went 202 next time out. It was his opinion that the ceramics free'd up the drag from the stock bearings that allowed the bike to push that extra mph. Of course I know the conditions probably changed, but he felt a difference, and he felt it pull harder. AGAIN, I can't remember who posted it, but this was a while ago.
Oh, and one last-last thing. Take a bike, push it around the garage or the street. Then take the same bike, with ceramic wheel bearings, and walk it around. The bike with the ceramics 'feels' like it lost 75 lbs! It just rollls so much easier around.
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A local shop here said on the dyno the ceramic bearings are worth 4 hp at peak; pretty good, but on the top end that amounts to almost nothing.
Also, it would be pointless to run a clean, un-oiled filter if you had it dyno-tuned with the filter correctly oiled.
Not to be a ballbreaker, but you really think you can feel seat-of-the-pants improvement by removing the screens on the ram air intakes? :lol:
Optimum gearing for top end has the engine reaching the power peak at top speed. Properly geared, 170 dyno hp in good atmospheric conditions should get a small rider up to 200 mph.
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It's very rare for a shop to measure an improvement with the ceramics. Usually, it's very minor, as it doesn't add hp, it just makes what the bikes got more effiicient.
Correct, the filter, with no oil, would also be best to have it dyno'd the same. Oiled fliters when dirty flow less than stock. And since I do so many oil changes, I simply clean the filter, change the oil every 1500-2000 miles, and the t/b's every 5k or so.
I don't expect anyone to agree with me on the ram air ducts being open, that is just my preference and what I felt. Probably does nothing. But, again, to me, it did feel to smooth out. But then again, I also did notice that the 08 Gixxer 6/7's don't have any metal mesh anymore.
Warezdong - I know what you're saying. I think we're all cheap on parts, and we all like to find good deals. If the conditions are right, sure, it can happen. But it's not easy. The last 5 mph to hit 200 is difficult. To give an example (this is grossly approximate), it only takes something like 350 horsepower for a Bugatti to get to 200. It takes the rest of the 700 horsepower to get to 254. Aerodynamics are a bitch.
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At Bonneville they figure a busa needs about 200hp to go 200mph, of course it is 4200ft elevation and usually 95-100deg. at speedweek. Where is the best.cheapest place to buy ceramic bearings?
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http://www.worldwidebearings.com/
Dave at 800-575-3220
You need to tell him exactly what you have as far as wheels. If you have aftermarket wheels, you'll need to tell him the bearing codes on the side of the bearings (these are measurements). Otherwise, Dave is familiar with Gixxer/Hayabusa rims, BST's, and such.
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warezdog , wise move , spend your $400 bucks on other stuff.
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Now if I could just find out if its enough to make 200 and change or if I need gearing and what combo will get me there but allow daily driving as well!
PS I just ordered the speigler lines for the front, once the pads go I'll go ebc thought it a wise investment for 125 to go dual to the front until I can afford the brembo setup.
I wouldnt mind shelling out for bearings, just that its not on the poor mans build list at the moment!
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Honestly, you got the right idea. You're going to hear a lot of different answers. The bike, all things being good, lots of air in tires and a clean chain/oil will go about mid 190's if you're not 300 lbs and against a headwind. To get to 200 takes a LOT of work because it's so hard to push the bike that extra 5 mph. But there is one more mod that I think will get you there,
Worldwide ceramic wheel bearings. About $400. Not cheap, but they will make a very big difference in acceleration and it will help with your top speed. The level of acceleration that you get with these, when you're already doing 100 mph, is noticeable. The bike, really, just feels that it's not be held back (unbelieveable, I know, when you're on a Busa). The bearings help a lot.
Some others;
K&N/BMC - clean filter, no lube
Ditch the ram air duct metal grates on the front of the bike. Some will say this does nothing, but I swear to god I felt it smooth out just a little bit doing this. You're filter will catch the bug pieces anyway.
Do NOT over tighten the rear axle. Or the front one for that matter.
Some one on here posted a guy that will drill up/out your stock rr rotor to make it look like a wave rotor. Saves weight, and rotating mass. Throw on some Ti rotor bolts while your at it. You only need 6, and that doesn't cost too much....
Adjust TPS to make sure it's correct.
Remove mirrors, bar ends.
Tuck tuck tuck tuck and get your ass far back into the seat. Get as low as possible, bring your elbows in, legs in. Full leather suit, no flappy jeans!
Got a mud flap? Ditch it. Remove rr seat/grab handle, use speed hump (I know I know, obvious).
$17 ($14?!) R1 throttle mod. Don't want you killing your wrist now holding it open.
Good shit dude i would even say with that "HMF" thing mid 190's are a Lil high MORE LIKE LOW 190'S, Buddy need's to get a new exhaust an if he is really trying to do a 200 mph pass with what he has now - for $350 you can can spray a 40 shot an between the juice an everything else - you would do at least 201-202 :vl:. i would like to add something else on the mod list an alot of guyz well probably bash me for it , but i run it on my bike ... if you are not drag racing run a 520 chain and sprocket i run a 17/41 an love it good luck maN :thumb:
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One more thing if your gonna be going out an taking passes , at a sanctioned event something else that makes a Lil improvement remove your rear rotor , an caliper less rotating mass an less weight ....
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It's very rare for a shop to measure an improvement with the ceramics. Usually, it's very minor, as it doesn't add hp, it just makes what the bikes got more effiicient.
Rare or not, I know who did it. And I told you what it was worth...four horsepower. And it does add horsepower to the rear wheel, what difference does it make whether it is more power created by the engine or more power allowed to get to the ground by better bearings? Four HP to the ground is four HP to the ground.
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Well, then it's 4 hp to the ground. Don't have to convince me, I've got 'em! And they are well woth it.
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Fastest I have gone with 170rwhp is 193 at Maxton...could prob goe a bit faster with more room....Stock engine BDE pipe 17/41 gearing...
Dave
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Fastest I have gone with 170rwhp is 193 at Maxton...could prob goe a bit faster with more room....Stock engine BDE pipe 17/41 gearing...
Dave
Me too thanks to you! (http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p224/DahMurf/Smileys/eyebrows.gif)
17/42 gearing.
Deb
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One of the guys on 200mph asked a very valid question:
If the ceramic bearings are making such a difference by reducing frictional losses, where is all the energy lost by the frictional losses of the less efficient bearings going?
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Fastest I have gone with 170rwhp is 193 at Maxton...could prob goe a bit faster with more room....Stock engine BDE pipe 17/41 gearing...
Dave
Did you have 5th gear timing and a PCIII as well as the airbox mod to do 193? How much more did you think it had if you had another mile?
TX for the input on the gearing still stuck between the 41/42
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Stock airbox...NO tre(00 model)...lowered with airshifter to get myself out of wind.....Maybe high 190's on good day lonnngggg road...Most think a busa will break 200mph easily....NOT. Usually 200rwhp to break 200mph for most people..if they are good.
Dave
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Guess I'lll find out in October but I'll have it dyno'd long before then, probably early april.
When is Maxton's runs? Is it sanctioned? Expensive? Sounds like a short run, where do they set the traps>?
So no PC3 to tweak your fuel mixture either and obviously you had no ignition map problems being an 00 (what I like to call the Glen Gary busa's!)
But you didnt mod the airbox to get more air with that pipe, mind if I ask why?
I see that in no power added class a few have been just breaking the 200 mark, they can't be using nitrous shots in that class can they?
Thanks for info!
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One of the guys on 200mph asked a very valid question:
If the ceramic bearings are making such a difference by reducing frictional losses, where is all the energy lost by the frictional losses of the less efficient bearings going?
Good observation, energy cannot be created or destroyed, it can only change its form and in this case that 4 hp of extra friction is turned into thermal energy (heat).
Blue
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Right, so if the bearings are producing 3Kw of heat, why does the grease not all run out?
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Well, that's one of the points, ceramic bearings don't produce as much heat. And they're harder than most steel bearings, and they are supposed to last a lot longer than conventional bearings.
Here;
http://www.engineersedge.com/bearing/ceramic_bearings.htm
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wow maybe I should save my pennies for these later on down the road, its like right out of star trek~
"the balls are elevated with a magnetic field and then polished in a plasma stream"
now I know why they're 400 smackers!!
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That same $400 will get better results invested in a dry kit :?
JMHO
That's how I did it, 770lbs bike & rider 225rwhp
so if you are lighter it won't take so much.
Hope that helps with your decision
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you might find that the seals "absorb" alota energy.
50 shot of NOS will get you into the club
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You could try a set of" universe wide bearings",there rare earth super magnetic bearings with the patented tri-lithium friction modifier are good for at least another 100 mph and only at 1.2K a set , gee's all the sponsered racers are saying there the ducks guts so it must be true :wink:, a 50 shot of nitrous will do the trick at a reasonably low cost ,I know because thats how I did it and Im meaner than scrooge
cheers
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Right, so if the bearings are producing 3Kw of heat, why does the grease not all run out?
Bearing grease is thick and the bearings are sealed.
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Stock bearings are only sealed one side aren't they?
In any case I think that just taking out old steel bearings and fitting new steel ones would see a reduction in resistance so that claim carries little weight with me. I would certainly want to be seeing some concrete proof before spending $400 on wheel bearings. I don't mean "Joe Schmoe uses them and he's been light speed" I'm talking proper measured or calculated figures from laborotory-condition testing. If there is such data about (and surely there should be), let someone post it up here.
I mean, I've seen proper test certs for 100-dollar head bolts on here because people doubted their performance yet folks are quite happy to shell-out many times that on bearings with dubious or un-proven claims attached to them.
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OK, I'll say this one more time: high end ceramic bearings (yes, they are $400) frees up four hp on a 'busa. That is documented from back to back dyno runs at a reputable local tuner; this is not Joe Blow speculation.
Choose to believe or not. $100/hp is not a terrible deal, it's about what you get from a pipe and dyno tune.
Personally, I wouldn't do the mod, it is a little pricey for bearings, but I would do it as a replacement.
Blue
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Fine - so where's the data and testing conditions?
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Blue may, or may not, still have that info.
But feel free to ask every MotoGP, AMA, NHRA drag bike, WSB, or other teams info on why they all use it. Don't forget all the LSR guys that have records, excpet for Gazza, which he may be the only guy that I know of to go fast with out 'em. Of course, that does make me wonder how much faster he can go with them. But that's just me. Break 220, perhaps?
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Without stick my neck out too far.....
Garry and Geri you seem quite skeptical about the ceramics......from what I can see.
What I can tell you from experience/testing......
1) I could not measure any difference on the dyno.
2) The rolling resistance is reduced....if you spin my front wheel with no calipers on it will continue to rotate for MINUTES...My stock ones did not.....
3) My bike did set the NA world record 2 years ago with them......I cant tell you if it would have WITHOUT....
They are one of those upgrades that is "the sum of parts is more than" in my book...i.e. like coatings etc on hard parts....
FWIW MY OPINION...If you have exhausted most resources to improve your bikes performance....pipe/mappin/etc....AND you want EVERYTHING YOU CAN GET FROM YOUR MACHINE, Then I recommend them to those who can afford. I truly believe they help...esp when installed/lubed correctly.....
But that is only MY OPINION......They may not be worth it for the average Joe.....
Besides they dont work "down under" since things rotate backwards down there...LOL
GiDay Mates....No Worries!!!
Dave
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As always the voice of reason Dave :thumb:
I'm not sceptical about their ability to reduce rolling resistance, far from it in fact and like you I would accept my own observations as evidence should I install them, spin the wheel and observe it spinning for longer.
What I am sceptical of is the use of dyno data to prove an equivalent of 4hp (or any other hp) gain by reduced rolling resistance in the bearings. There are far too many variables involved (atmospherics, engine coolant temps, chain tension, strap-down tension, axle-bolt torque, rear-wheel alignment etc etc etc) for me to accept that as "proof). These bearings weren't produced by someone baking china clay in a fire-pit, they must have been scientifically researched, thoroughly tested, data collected and compared to similar products etc. This is the data I'm calling for. It's not an unreasonable request, they sell the things at a heck of a price, I'd want proper researched and measured performance data before committing my money to them.
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Ok Im going to put my 2cents worth in. If I was just going to ride my bike on the street I probably wouldn't use them. but Im building a production Bonneville bike,running on a 201+ record, if these bearings can get me 2-4mph for 400 bucks Ill try it. From everything I have read Im going to use them. O yeah Im going to use the engine set also.
FRED
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Agreed that as a last resort to finding that extra poofteenth of speed , agreed that they will reduce the rolling resistance friction in the wheel bearings but most of your rolling resistance comes from hysterisis (sp) deformation of the rubber tyre and that at the speeds we are discussing total rolling resistance is a minor player in total drag , opinion still stands ,spend that 400 toward a nitrous system for maximum bang for buck and do 200+ ,or if you are chasing the gas record spend it on a set of hi comp pistons
cheers
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The pro's use ceramic bearings. However, they're also spending thousands and thousands of dollars. The question isn't "do they work," the question is "do they work better than other things you could spend $400 on when you're on a $1k budget.
Reducing friction in the bearings means less heat generated (yes, that's what happens to wasted energy, almost always it's turned into heat). The gains will be progressively better the faster the bearing is spinning, so 4hp at what speed is the real question.
Reducing rotating mass (i.e., super light wheels, lightened rotors, etc) tends to show the best gains in rate of change situations--better braking, better accelleration. Same with lightening non-rotating parts (carbon bodywork, aluminium subframe, and so on), but for top speed where you've got a good bit of room to work with not so much, as the problem is generally drag from wind. Anything to give yourself a smaller head-on area will be helpful, such as lowering, removing mirrors, that sort of thing, (good body position!).
Running a little extra air pressure in the tires will help reduce deformation of the tire, making it take longer to get up to temp (becuase less engergy is being spent on flexing the tire). Think about pushing a bike around with a flat tire, and how much work it is, the same is true in the other direction. Also a little more air presents a smaller contact patch to the ground, again because the tire is unable to flex as much and is basically a round profile at the ground.
Sounds like a fun project, gluck!
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Blue may, or may not, still have that info.
But feel free to ask every MotoGP, AMA, NHRA drag bike, WSB, or other teams info on why they all use it. Don't forget all the LSR guys that have records, excpet for Gazza, which he may be the only guy that I know of to go fast with out 'em. Of course, that does make me wonder how much faster he can go with them. But that's just me. Break 220, perhaps?
don't get me wrong 4 hp is a huge increase for a race team, it's free hp in the fact that most increases, especially at a comptetive state of tune, involve some reduction in durability; exotic bearings like this actually reduce the load on everything but the tires.
sorry if I misstated what I was trying to say. :D
Blue
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Okay, drag, as we all should know... when chasing speed records... is proportional to the square of the speed. That means... you quadruple the drag or lift when you double the speed. For those slower in mathematics... at 100 mph drag is FOUR times what it is at 50 miles per hour. (There ARE other variables involed, but for the most part this is true to the best knowledge of physics)
To do 200 mph, you have to overcome FOUR TIMES THE DRAG THAT IS OR WOULD BE PRODUCED AT 100 mph. If you think about it... that is a MONUMENTAL task. It can be done, but to do it with under $1000 out of pocket is a stretch. If it IS possible... you need to post it in your PERSONAL business literature and sell the neccesary modifications to ALL willing to spend the money. Possibly the easiest money on the planet. Try to keep it simple and secret. "I" think... spend your money on quality engine mods and PROPER tuning on a dyno... (by someone TRULY QUALIFIED)... and BELIEVE in what you are trying to do. Making record breaking horsepower is a COSTLY undertaking and you SHOULD remember that when those people are telling you that they CAN give it to you for UNDER $1000. Good luck and let EVERYBODY know when you figure it out. I myself would LOOOOOVE to see the other side of the "special" number. Kudos for giving it a REAL effort.
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Or...you can just get your speedo to lie. :)
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Your Busa can get to 200mph WITHOUT any of the modifications listed above. Thats right boys and girls, you heard it here first. All you need is (drum roll.......) a speedo healer. When I got mine I adjusted it a little too much and low and behold I was pegging the spedo on an LA freeway. The cars were a blur...........as they went by me.
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Get a used NOS kit there cheap and then just hit it when you get to 6th. Should push you to the magical 200. Ran a zex on my bike for awhile almost half a second 1/8th mile times but it was just a dry kit and not enough power for what I wanted.
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I think drag is a major obstacle for you to over come. So here is what you need to do: Remove your gear, no pants, no jacket, no shirt, no helmet, no right shoe (your gonna want the left one for shifting). Next, grab a large can of crisco. Rub that magical lube all over your body, cover your arms, legs and head very well. I actually did this once and it really works, but man is it a bitch to get that crisco out of your hair.
But seriously, I'm not sure I believe it's possible for under $1000. However I would love to find out otherwise. Good luck.
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Didnt make the october run do to taking a new job in DC but making plans now to hit the one in March. Tearing the bike down in the next week in order to get it dyno'd before the drive down. If I still have money left is the zex the best nitro shot for the money?
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well i am sure you guys will think i am lieing i have an 03 lowered with busted gauges ie. the speedo dont work so i decided to use my gps and i have had mine on the gps over 200 only mods i have done is that i have no mirrors lowered it and have a double bubble windscreen. so whats the deal.
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I've got a similar thread going for the Gen-II, see the link in my sig for info. I should have the pipe and remaining goodies this week for the install and results at the end of March. :thumb:
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well i am sure you guys will think i am lieing i have an 03 lowered with busted gauges ie. the speedo dont work so i decided to use my gps and i have had mine on the gps over 200 only mods i have done is that i have no mirrors lowered it and have a double bubble windscreen. so whats the deal.
Unfortunately, your GPS doesn't work. First, you need a TRE to pass 186 mph. 2nd, you need a LOT of mods to get that number, and your avatar looks like it's showing a bike with a stock exhaust. I don't know what to tell you, but a stock Busa won't touch 200. Best case scenario, with a TRE and a well broken in bike, oil change/clean chain/tune-up/etc...BEST case maybe 194, the most I ever heard of a stock bike.
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You could hit the 200 marque with a stock Hayabusa with no mods,,, with only the fine choice additions of Lowered Hugemanboobs Slip-ons and his tubes to nowhere! :lol:
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I figured he dropped it out of a plane to get that speed... :lol:
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:lol: ,,, puts a new twist on rolling resistance.
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Maybe this will help.
http://www.1st-to-the-finish-line.com/news/news-brocks-performance.html
http://www.1st-to-the-finish-line.com/articles/articles-hayabusa-part2.html
Guy
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great thread guys!
So it sounds like the consensus is that a "stock" gen1busa is good for just over 190(with TRE) and that it takes a lot of serious work, or NOS, to get much above that. Have I got this right? If thats the case it says a lot about how well engineered these bikes are. You do $1,000.00 of mods to the average car and you'll get some serious gains (but nowhere near as much fun as a Busa :P)
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great thread guys!
So it sounds like the consensus is that a "stock" gen1busa is good for just over 190(with TRE) and that it takes a lot of serious work, or NOS, to get much above that. Have I got this right? If thats the case it says a lot about how well engineered these bikes are. You do $1,000.00 of mods to the average car and you'll get some serious gains (but nowhere near as much fun as a Busa :P)
Last season some of the locals threw in a dry nitrous kit, connected a between the ecu and nitrous solenoid, flashed a nitrous ecu map, crushed the regulator for +14psi and off they went - reaching somewhere between 205 - 210mph (with some wind) trap speed depending on gearing they chose to use for various runs. Total cost was around 500usd. Oh, the bike did have a pipe (full exhaust) when they bought the bike used.
I hacked an ecu, designed a top notch engine with several nighs of engine computer simulations, went to an extreme in building an airbox with fiberglass and shortening the intake, spent several grands into this well built 1397 and hit the limiter at 208mph.
Its not if it can be done, its all about how you choose to do it.
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well i got the bike used i dont know if it has a tre on it or not i dont have stock exhaust on it that pic is the first day i got her. i know what my gps says and its accurate i use it on a lot of apps this one being the only one that fast. so unless it just goes stupid above 150 i will believe what i ran. i know you guys know a lot more than me but i saw this with my own eyes. I would have took a picture but at that speed i didnt even want to take my eyes off the road.
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well i am sure you guys will think i am lieing i have an 03 lowered with busted gauges ie. the speedo dont work so i decided to use my gps and i have had mine on the gps over 200 only mods i have done is that i have no mirrors lowered it and have a double bubble windscreen. so whats the deal.
The deal is, you didn't do that from a dead stop to just 1 mile. That's the deal. Many Busa's can go 200 but it takes you a lot farther to get to that speed than just 1 mile from a dead stop with your current mods. I believe your GPS, just not your distance.
Guy
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hmm maybe i misread something i dont think i said it was with in those perameters i was driving to a buddys house about 30 miles away when i did it in a stretch of probably 3 miles or so heck i dont know. haha
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Yes, 3 miles will do it for many Busa's, hell even a 1000 can go 200 with the right gearing and and mods in 3 miles.
thanks for your candor.
Guy
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well i am sure you guys will think i am lieing i have an 03 lowered with busted gauges ie. the speedo dont work so i decided to use my gps and i have had mine on the gps over 200 only mods i have done is that i have no mirrors lowered it and have a double bubble windscreen. so whats the deal.
First you say "only mods I have done are no mirrors lowered and a double bubble."
well i got the bike used i dont know if it has a tre on it or not i dont have stock exhaust on it that pic is the first day i got her. i know what my gps says and its accurate i use it on a lot of apps this one being the only one that fast. so unless it just goes stupid above 150 i will believe what i ran. i know you guys know a lot more than me but i saw this with my own eyes. I would have took a picture but at that speed i didnt even want to take my eyes off the road.
Then you say you got it used and now it's got exhaust.....blah....blah...etc. so it's hard to really know what's done to the bike...
Based on your initial statement of it being essentially stock with no performance mods, 200mph GPS is impossible. Now that it's apparent that you have other mods and it wasn't in 1-mile actual results and opinions may change... ;)
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"Hmm,,,, let me see,, if I drive to my buddy's house about 3 miles away,, do I think I can obtain 200mph if I peg it all the way there!?" "I know!! I'll call him first,, and have him stand out on the front porch,,, tell him I'll wave when I fly by as I set this new record with a stock Busa!" :mrgreen:
"Hope I don't lose my hand!" :bah: :lol:
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Bonnieville would be nice but at 5000 ft above sea level and you're losing a good percentage of hp, the hat is really cool though!
It is true that the salt has a higher elevation and lower air density and this lowers HP but is almost a dead equal trade off due to the aerodynamic advantage the thinner air gives. The thinner air @ Bonneville has proven to give vehicles with higher Cd numbers an advantage over lower elevations with the gain in HP.
~JH
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Well, then it's 4 hp to the ground. Don't have to convince me, I've got 'em! And they are well woth it.
I will support you!! If you figure stock bearings take 4 horse just off the rear wheel and 4 off from the front thats +8 with the ceramics...its almost like shaving rotating weight off...just be reducing rotational friction. And i would rather have something in my wheels that can withstand the heat of space shuttle ReEntry than something that can only witstand about 1500 deg!
It does suck that they are so expensive though!
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I will support you!! If you figure stock bearings take 4 horse just off the rear wheel and 4 off from the front thats +8 with the ceramics...its almost like shaving rotating weight off...just be reducing rotational friction. And i would rather have something in my wheels that can withstand the heat of space shuttle ReEntry than something that can only witstand about 1500 deg!
It does suck that they are so expensive though!
zero possibility you will gain 8 hp by ceramic wheel bearings alone on a bike.
Rotational weight has almost no affect on top speed and its affect is multiplied the further the weight is from the centerline....so heavy tires can make a difference but a heavy break rotor doesn’t.
I am not saying ceramic wheel bearings are bad but the difference between oem and ceramic wheel bearings are small......maybe enough to make a difference when everyone is running close but for the average joe........stick with OEM and spend the money on a turbo.
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Intersting Jonny, but I disagree with you when dealing with short courses. :wink:
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Im just saying its basically the seme reason that top fuel cars run 3" wide tires on the front and not 6" its rotational friction!