SuzukiHayabusa.org
GENERAL => BIKE TALK => Topic started by: busa2001 on May 22, 2009, 08:11:24 PM
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When installing a manual cam chain tensioner, what is the proper way to adjust it..getting ready to replace the stock one after cam chain start making noise.. :thumb:
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I cant help much because I couldnt really get much help on this either. but based on my last wr400 build it had an automatic spring type tensioner which kept the chain tight just to the point where you cant move the chain with your fingers seems tight but I adjusted my gixxer thou to the same tightness worked fine I figure better tight then loose but if its too tight its going to chew out your guides. im interested to know what the correct procedure is. manual cct is definately better than those crap oil pressure units though mine had ripped up teeth all along it and dont think it was holding tension real well.
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Basically, the way I adjust mine and seems to work is: turn the motor over with a ratchet/socket and tighten the tensioner by hand. Keep turning it over and tightening it by hand and till you can't tighten it anymore. Then, tighten it a 1/4 turn more and lock it down.
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Hey BUSA2001, what sort of noise was it making ???
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Hey BUSA2001, what sort of noise was it making ???
There's a loud rattle from the right side like the cam chain is flapping around. I'm getting ready the remove to valve cover and check timing mark and pin count, i had it time already for 105 107 if all check out i have a manual tension coming will be here Tuesday, going to install it and see if that the problem before i drop the motor.... :(
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Basically, the way I adjust mine and seems to work is: turn the motor over with a ratchet/socket and tighten the tensioner by hand. Keep turning it over and tightening it by hand and till you can't tighten it anymore. Then, tighten it a 1/4 turn more and lock it down.
Thats kinda the way we do it. Hey reallt are just a guess. No real way to tighten then "accurately" (which would infer that there was some target we were trying to hit)
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zip tie the chain to the sprockets before you remove the original cct , they can jump a tooth as your releasing the pressure.
just don't forget to remove the ties when finished
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zip tie the chain to the sprockets before you remove the original cct , they can jump a tooth as your releasing the pressure.
just don't forget to remove the ties when finished
Good Point....We do hat as well. :thumb:
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zip tie the chain to the sprockets before you remove the original cct , they can jump a tooth as your releasing the pressure.
just don't forget to remove the ties when finished
yes! already did that, thanks! :D
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Basically, the way I adjust mine and seems to work is: turn the motor over with a ratchet/socket and tighten the tensioner by hand. Keep turning it over and tightening it by hand and till you can't tighten it anymore. Then, tighten it a 1/4 turn more and lock it down.
Thats kinda the way we do it. Hey reallt are just a guess. No real way to tighten then "accurately" (which would infer that there was some target we were trying to hit)
Cool! Thanks Tom & John, i will do it that way! :thumb: hope it just the tensioner, just finish removing valve cover and check timing and pin count everything check out ok!
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:thumb:
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make sure your guides dont look like mine, gotta wait a few more days to put motor together now :evil:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gsmith1979/DSC_1056.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gsmith1979/DSC_1057.jpg)
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i'll be sure to check Greg, thanks for the heads up..
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Why not just get a new auto tensioner instead of the manual one? Then theres no worries? I was just wondering?
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Why not just get a new auto tensioner instead of the manual one? Then theres no worries? I was just wondering?
just don't want to bother with the stock one anymore the one on my bike only have about 4k miles on it, at this point I'm just going to try the manual one never heard anything bad about them yet but know of a few stock ones that fail...
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WELL I GOT THE MANUAL TENSIONER AND INSTALLED IT BUT THE NOISE CONTINUED AS SOON AS I STARTED IT UP, I IMMEDIATELY SHUT THE BIKE OFF, REMOVE VALVE COVER AGAIN AND THIS TIME REMOVED BOTH INTAKE AND EXHAUST CAMS AND CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE SHIMS WERE ALL THERE IN THERE PROPER PLACES AND I DID NOT LOSE A VALVE EVERY THING CHECK OUT OK SO I BUTTON IT BACK UP DOUBLE CHECK THE TIMING, AND FIRED IT UP IT MADE THE RATTLING SOUND FOR A SECOND THEN IT WENT AWAY, I LET THE BIKE IDLE FOR ABOUT 15-20 MINUTES AND THE NOISE NEVER RETURN SO WHAT EVER IT WAS I SURE HOW IT'S GONE FOR GOOD.. :lol: I GOING TO STICK WITH THE MANUAL CAM CHAIN TENSIONER... :thumb:
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well at least the valve cover bolts are recently broke loose :P
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well at least the valve cover bolts are recently broke loose :P
:lol:
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Damn Busa2001, I just got deja vu....
One thing about the manual tensioner is its fail proof if installed correctly. :thumb:
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Damn Busa2001, I just got deja vu....
One thing about the manual tensioner is its fail proof if installed correctly. :thumb:
i read through your post about the noise, :D I'm sticking with the manual cam chain tensioner. :thumb:
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One thing about the manual tensioner is its fail proof if installed correctly. :thumb:
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
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Well finally get a chance to take her out today and beat the living shit out of her, and she took it like she use to, no noise or anything to complain about so the manual cam chain tensioner is doing a beautiful job. I'm so relieve i don't have to drop the motor.
Thanks for all the help guys.... :D :thumb:
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:clp: