SuzukiHayabusa.org
GENERAL => DRAG RACING => Topic started by: Shamrock on April 16, 2010, 09:11:11 PM
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I know alot of guys would like help with that and I am one of them :thumb:
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r u racing this year see you at muncie bring pat
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I just installed mine and will be trying to tune it next weekend at MIR. Looks liek a nice piece. Should be interesting.
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read instructions then dump clutch twist throttle :hys:
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Hays Convertable Clutch Installation Instructions
Convertable Clutch Installation Instructions
The Convertible Clutch is designed to install similar to your OEM clutch.
1. Install the outer basket.
2. Install the bearing/shim kit with the bearing facing the inner hub
3. Install the inner hub
4. Install clutch pack and set air gap at 0.040-0.050 thousanths (for use in slider mode) (.100 for use in Lockup Mode)
5. Install the clutch pusher rod.
6. Install the outer hat assy. Using the 4mm socket head cap screws provided.
Replace the hardened steel spacer that goes between the face of the clutch basket and the inner hub with the thrust washer shim kit assy. Make sure the needle bearing faces the inner hub. If you don't have .003 to .008” clearance the inner hub will not rotate if there is not enough clearance,likewise the basket will have excessive endplay on the higher end of the spectrum
Install the factory pusher assy. in the end of the input shaft.
Install friction and metal plates same as with stock procedure, except eliminate the stock ring and spring washer, start with a fiber then steel then fiber then steel continue till you end with fiber. make sure the air gap is .040-0.050 (for use in slider mode) (.100 for use in Lockup Mode)
air gap is measured from the edge of the basket to the last fiber plate,subtracting any step in the clutch hat/pressure plate assy., If not,you can mix steels and fibers to obtain the correct air gap.
Place the hat assembly on the basket and tighten the allen head cap screws to secure it.
Adjusting the Convertable Clutch in slider/hand clutch combination mode
using the 6 short Medium Stall compression springs supplied with your unit set the height at .890 thousanths from the top of the adjuster nuts to the top of the hat assy. you can then check to see what rpm the clutch engages and adjust the stall speed from there,to increase stall speed you turn the 16mm adjuster nut in a clockwise direction,to decrease stall speed turn in a counter-clockwise direction,if you would like a lower desired stall speed use the 6 Low Stall Compression springs included in your kit.
it is not neccesary to attach the 3 extension springs to the lockup arms when running in the combination mode.
Slider/Hand Clutch Combination
To use the Convertible Clutch in the COMBINATION mode you will install the 6 short springs supplied with your kit on the outside of the hat assy. Using the spring adjuster nuts you adjust the height of the adjuster nut to set the rpm at which the clutch engages,for standard street use we recommend 1800-2100 rpm engagement,for dragstrip use you may want to experiment with different rpm engagements for best results.
In this configuration your clutch will engage based on engine rpm (slider),your clutch lever will override the engagement of the clutch at any rpm and you can also hold in the clutch and launch the bike at any rpm you wish,no matter what the rpm engagement is set at.
Stall speed is simply adjusted by placing a 16mm socket on the nut and adjusting it clockwise(increase rpm) or counterclockwise(decrease rpm).
You can also adjust the amount of weight on the lockup arms to fne tune stall speed and control at what rpm and how hard the clutch engages.
Single Stage Engine Driven Lockup
To use the Convertible Clutch in the Single Stage Engine Driven Lockup mode you will need to remove the 4mm screws holding the hat assy. To the basket and install the 6 long springs supplied with your kit in between the pressure plate and outer hat assy,and install back onto the basket.
It is not necessary to remove the 8mm studs from the pressure plate but you will need to remove the spring adjuster nuts and the springs from the outside of the hat assy place them elsewhere while using this mode.
Using this combination the clutch will engage/disengage using the clutch lever only,and tuning will be performed by varying the static pressure of the base spring and the weight on the lockup arms.
Multi stage Engine Driven Lockup
To use the Convertible Clutch in the Multi Stage Engine Driven Lockup mode you can simply attach the 3 extension springs provided in the kit to the clutch arms in the 2 small holes located in the middle of the arms,to allow an additional level of tuning ability. there are 3 sets of extension tuning springs included in your kit for adjustability NOTE: DO NOT ATTACH THE EXTENSION SPRINGS TO THE LARGE HOLE AT THE TOP OF THE LOCKUP ARM THEY WILL BREAK.
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Clear as mud... :duh:
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Hays Convertable Clutch Installation Instructions
Convertable Clutch Installation Instructions
The Convertible Clutch is designed to install similar to your OEM clutch.
1. Install the outer basket.
2. Install the bearing/shim kit with the bearing facing the inner hub
3. Install the inner hub
4. Install clutch pack and set air gap at 0.040-0.050 thousanths (for use in slider mode) (.100 for use in Lockup Mode)
5. Install the clutch pusher rod.
6. Install the outer hat assy. Using the 4mm socket head cap screws provided.
Replace the hardened steel spacer that goes between the face of the clutch basket and the inner hub with the thrust washer shim kit assy. Make sure the needle bearing faces the inner hub. If you don't have .003 to .008” clearance the inner hub will not rotate if there is not enough clearance,likewise the basket will have excessive endplay on the higher end of the spectrum
Install the factory pusher assy. in the end of the input shaft.
Install friction and metal plates same as with stock procedure, except eliminate the stock ring and spring washer, start with a fiber then steel then fiber then steel continue till you end with fiber. make sure the air gap is .040-0.050 (for use in slider mode) (.100 for use in Lockup Mode)
air gap is measured from the edge of the basket to the last fiber plate,subtracting any step in the clutch hat/pressure plate assy., If not,you can mix steels and fibers to obtain the correct air gap.
Place the hat assembly on the basket and tighten the allen head cap screws to secure it.
Adjusting the Convertable Clutch in slider/hand clutch combination mode
using the 6 short Medium Stall compression springs supplied with your unit set the height at .890 thousanths from the top of the adjuster nuts to the top of the hat assy. you can then check to see what rpm the clutch engages and adjust the stall speed from there,to increase stall speed you turn the 16mm adjuster nut in a clockwise direction,to decrease stall speed turn in a counter-clockwise direction,if you would like a lower desired stall speed use the 6 Low Stall Compression springs included in your kit.
it is not neccesary to attach the 3 extension springs to the lockup arms when running in the combination mode.
Slider/Hand Clutch Combination
To use the Convertible Clutch in the COMBINATION mode you will install the 6 short springs supplied with your kit on the outside of the hat assy. Using the spring adjuster nuts you adjust the height of the adjuster nut to set the rpm at which the clutch engages,for standard street use we recommend 1800-2100 rpm engagement,for dragstrip use you may want to experiment with different rpm engagements for best results.
In this configuration your clutch will engage based on engine rpm (slider),your clutch lever will override the engagement of the clutch at any rpm and you can also hold in the clutch and launch the bike at any rpm you wish,no matter what the rpm engagement is set at.
Stall speed is simply adjusted by placing a 16mm socket on the nut and adjusting it clockwise(increase rpm) or counterclockwise(decrease rpm).
You can also adjust the amount of weight on the lockup arms to fne tune stall speed and control at what rpm and how hard the clutch engages.
Single Stage Engine Driven Lockup
To use the Convertible Clutch in the Single Stage Engine Driven Lockup mode you will need to remove the 4mm screws holding the hat assy. To the basket and install the 6 long springs supplied with your kit in between the pressure plate and outer hat assy,and install back onto the basket.
It is not necessary to remove the 8mm studs from the pressure plate but you will need to remove the spring adjuster nuts and the springs from the outside of the hat assy place them elsewhere while using this mode.
Using this combination the clutch will engage/disengage using the clutch lever only,and tuning will be performed by varying the static pressure of the base spring and the weight on the lockup arms.
Multi stage Engine Driven Lockup
To use the Convertible Clutch in the Multi Stage Engine Driven Lockup mode you can simply attach the 3 extension springs provided in the kit to the clutch arms in the 2 small holes located in the middle of the arms,to allow an additional level of tuning ability. there are 3 sets of extension tuning springs included in your kit for adjustability NOTE: DO NOT ATTACH THE EXTENSION SPRINGS TO THE LARGE HOLE AT THE TOP OF THE LOCKUP ARM THEY WILL BREAK.
:lol: :lol: Yea............. I read that about 2000 times?????????? & Still cant get this thing Too 60'foot?????? :hys: :hys:
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"air gap is measured from the edge of the basket to the last fiber plate,subtracting any step in the clutch hat/pressure plate assy.,
If not,you can mix steels and fibers to obtain the correct air gap."
Hope you can help me out guys.
Ive tried to set the air gap at .100 for use the clutch in Lockup mode today.
I have installed the thinnest clutch pack that is possible (only thin fibers and thin steel plates) and the gap is only 0,075" !!!! :?
Perhaps I made a mistake when I measured the gap.
Ive measured it without clutch-hat/assy from the edge of the outer basket to the last fiber.
Is that right????
Cheers, Mikey
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Hope you can help me out guys.
Ive tried to set the air gap at .100 for use the clutch in Lockup mode today.
I have installed the thinnest clutch pack that is possible (only thin fibers and thin steel plates) and the gap is only 0,075" !!!! :?
Perhaps I made a mistake when I measured the gap.
Ive measured it without clutch-hat/assy from the edge of the outer basket to the last fiber.
Is that right????
Cheers, Mikey
how many steels and fibers are you using? i measured the distance from the pressure plate t the hat when the pressure plate was fully out against the hat, then measures with teh pressure plate fuly against the clutch pack, then subtracted the two.
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John, I ve installed 10 fibres and 9 steels (like stock)
OK, I will measure the air gap like you explained, tomorrow.
Perhaps it was not enough pressure to push the clutch pack only with 2 fingers.
Damn, its not possible to make a short testrun here. :(
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i am certainly no expert mike, but I noticed a difference once the hat and springs were installed and the clutch lever pulled a few times to seat the clutch pack. I just put in 6 screws in (2 ieach in the area of the lockup arms, assuming you don;t have the new t3 clutch with 6 arms, to set it up, then when it was right, I put the rest in. saves taking so many bolts in and out.
also need to check the basket endplay after you install the hub, and adjust by adding / removing shims if necessary before setting the air gap.
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there are no real rules to seting it up (oher than the shim pack). i talked with a guy the other day who is in MS lockup mode, but installed very stiff springs under the hat and also put the slider springs in with the aluminum nuts. he can adjust the static without taking the hat off....pretty good idea I thought. I watched him go 1.32 60'
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1,32 :thumb: That is my goal this year... :?
Yes I have the "old" one with only 3 arms. Bought it used from a board member.
Its all new for me. Ive never used a Hays clutch before.
We will see..... :wink:
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1,32 :thumb: That is my goal this year... :?
Yes I have the "old" one with only 3 arms. Bought it used from a board member.
Its all new for me. Ive never used a Hays clutch before.
We will see..... :wink:
:thumb: :thumb: Mike.......... If you need any suggestions?????? Send me a PM & I Will give ya my phone number and I can possibly help you with ur hays set-up??????? Ive only had the damn thing in all the modes, like five times in the past week or two????????? :lol: :lol: LMK
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1,32 :thumb: That is my goal this year... :?
Yes I have the "old" one with only 3 arms. Bought it used from a board member.
Its all new for me. Ive never used a Hays clutch before.
We will see..... :wink:
:thumb: :thumb: Mike.......... If you need any suggestions?????? Send me a PM & I Will give ya my phone number and I can possibly help you with ur hays set-up??????? Ive only had the damn thing in all the modes, like five times in the past week or two????????? :lol: :lol: LMK
Thats cool bro :thumb: Thanks !!!
I will have more information after the first test runs next weekend.
The bike is completely new and I hope not to have big issues.
So I can give all my concentration on the clutch setup.
Cheers, Mikey
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read instructions then dump clutch twist throttle :hys:
8) 8) 8)
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Hays Convertable Clutch Installation Instructions
Convertable Clutch Installation Instructions
The Convertible Clutch is designed to install similar to your OEM clutch.
1. Install the outer basket.
2. Install the bearing/shim kit with the bearing facing the inner hub
3. Install the inner hub
4. Install clutch pack and set air gap at 0.040-0.050 thousanths (for use in slider mode) (.100 for use in Lockup Mode)
5. Install the clutch pusher rod.
6. Install the outer hat assy. Using the 4mm socket head cap screws provided.
Replace the hardened steel spacer that goes between the face of the clutch basket and the inner hub with the thrust washer shim kit assy. Make sure the needle bearing faces the inner hub. If you don't have .003 to .008” clearance the inner hub will not rotate if there is not enough clearance,likewise the basket will have excessive endplay on the higher end of the spectrum
Install the factory pusher assy. in the end of the input shaft.
Install friction and metal plates same as with stock procedure, except eliminate the stock ring and spring washer, start with a fiber then steel then fiber then steel continue till you end with fiber. make sure the air gap is .040-0.050 (for use in slider mode) (.100 for use in Lockup Mode)
air gap is measured from the edge of the basket to the last fiber plate,subtracting any step in the clutch hat/pressure plate assy., If not,you can mix steels and fibers to obtain the correct air gap.
Place the hat assembly on the basket and tighten the allen head cap screws to secure it.
Adjusting the Convertable Clutch in slider/hand clutch combination mode
using the 6 short Medium Stall compression springs supplied with your unit set the height at .890 thousanths from the top of the adjuster nuts to the top of the hat assy. you can then check to see what rpm the clutch engages and adjust the stall speed from there,to increase stall speed you turn the 16mm adjuster nut in a clockwise direction,to decrease stall speed turn in a counter-clockwise direction,if you would like a lower desired stall speed use the 6 Low Stall Compression springs included in your kit.
it is not neccesary to attach the 3 extension springs to the lockup arms when running in the combination mode.
Slider/Hand Clutch Combination
To use the Convertible Clutch in the COMBINATION mode you will install the 6 short springs supplied with your kit on the outside of the hat assy. Using the spring adjuster nuts you adjust the height of the adjuster nut to set the rpm at which the clutch engages,for standard street use we recommend 1800-2100 rpm engagement,for dragstrip use you may want to experiment with different rpm engagements for best results.
In this configuration your clutch will engage based on engine rpm (slider),your clutch lever will override the engagement of the clutch at any rpm and you can also hold in the clutch and launch the bike at any rpm you wish,no matter what the rpm engagement is set at.
Stall speed is simply adjusted by placing a 16mm socket on the nut and adjusting it clockwise(increase rpm) or counterclockwise(decrease rpm).
You can also adjust the amount of weight on the lockup arms to fne tune stall speed and control at what rpm and how hard the clutch engages.
Single Stage Engine Driven Lockup
To use the Convertible Clutch in the Single Stage Engine Driven Lockup mode you will need to remove the 4mm screws holding the hat assy. To the basket and install the 6 long springs supplied with your kit in between the pressure plate and outer hat assy,and install back onto the basket.
It is not necessary to remove the 8mm studs from the pressure plate but you will need to remove the spring adjuster nuts and the springs from the outside of the hat assy place them elsewhere while using this mode.
Using this combination the clutch will engage/disengage using the clutch lever only,and tuning will be performed by varying the static pressure of the base spring and the weight on the lockup arms.
Multi stage Engine Driven Lockup
To use the Convertible Clutch in the Multi Stage Engine Driven Lockup mode you can simply attach the 3 extension springs provided in the kit to the clutch arms in the 2 small holes located in the middle of the arms,to allow an additional level of tuning ability. there are 3 sets of extension tuning springs included in your kit for adjustability NOTE: DO NOT ATTACH THE EXTENSION SPRINGS TO THE LARGE HOLE AT THE TOP OF THE LOCKUP ARM THEY WILL BREAK.
8) 8)
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any questions you may have please email and i will asist you.
our installation instructions were developed upon the busa release of our original clutch and since then we have developed 11 different models and some models have 2 differnt versions.
we are working on revising and clarifying install instructions for each individual model.
also the data we have for tuning is updated constantly,inquire for any questions you may have.
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Have the hays clutch in my hand and thinking hard to undestand how it should be tuned. I think I need some tuning data starting point, but in the meanwhile a question ... I dont really follow this sentence in the above written very good tuning advice.
In this configuration your clutch will engage based on engine rpm (slider),your clutch lever will override the engagement of the clutch at any rpm and you can also hold in the clutch and launch the bike at any rpm you wish,no matter what the rpm engagement is set at.
Does this really mean that I could launch at any rpm, also at lower than what the rpm engagement is set at ? There is somekind of stored inertia to the arms which get released when clutch is depressed to allow launch also at lower rpm.s ?
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Have the hays clutch in my hand and thinking hard to undestand how it should be tuned. I think I need some tuning data starting point, but in the meanwhile a question ... I dont really follow this sentence in the above written very good tuning advice.
In this configuration your clutch will engage based on engine rpm (slider),your clutch lever will override the engagement of the clutch at any rpm and you can also hold in the clutch and launch the bike at any rpm you wish,no matter what the rpm engagement is set at.
Does this really mean that I could launch at any rpm, also at lower than what the rpm engagement is set at ? There is somekind of stored inertia to the arms which get released when clutch is depressed to allow launch also at lower rpm.s ?
No, When setup in slider mode AND with a clutch lever / slave still installed on the bike, the clutch lever is simply an override. The clutch will still act as a slider in all but the clutch in, high RPM condition, where teh clutch can be disengaged by the clutch lever. I am not sure where this woudl come into play, other than if one wanted to disengage the clutch at high RPM for some reason.
One case where this may have been beneficial is where user "Johnny Hotnuts" spun his busa powered car on the salt at high speed, rotated the engine backwards due to the wheels being reversed, and caused damage / breakage. I suppose he MAY heve been able to save teh engine if he were somehow able to disengage the clutch fast enough (not sure that is practical under those conditions though...)
It really needs to be set up to race OR for low RPM street use to be effective. Setting it up for low RPM street engagement will compromise the ability of the clutch to provide a great launch.
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:lol: :lol: I Put ah Hays in my lil grudge bike, & its pretty close......... To bad thats with my chick on it though????? :hys: :hys:
All motor pass
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l14/mikefwon/533allmotor001.jpg)
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:thumb: :thumb: Heres a video of me testing the hays last week........... Small dry shot!!!!! :thumb: :thumb:
http://www.youtube.com/user/lilmikef (http://www.youtube.com/user/lilmikef)
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:thumb:
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:thumb: :thumb: Heres a video of me testing the hays last week........... Small dry shot!!!!! :thumb: :thumb:
http://www.youtube.com/user/lilmikef (http://www.youtube.com/user/lilmikef)
Very nice!
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:thumb:
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few things to keep in mind the springs on the arms do need to be replaced at least every 50 passes,,,,,,,, i had 2 of them break and end up in my pan,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, my bike rider combo was about 700 pounds and i went 1.32 60s,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, but had a verry hard time duplicating a 60 foot time,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, and i seemed to have better luck keeping the air gap on initial setup at .090 and i also did away with the shim packs and actually machined the center hub down to get my .005 with the bearing in place,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, and also took the stock inner basket and put it on a lathe and turned the lower fibre contact area to make it flat with the center hub,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, its a good setup but i wander if the mtc although much more expensive is more consistent on the 60 ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, or if the 6 arm is more consistent
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If you are breraking springs something is wrong.Mine has literally hundreds of passes with no broken springs.My brothers GSXR 60fts about the same as yours and has never broke a spring.Are you sure they are in the right holes?
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by the directions i pulled it apart to check the static and they were gone dropped the pan and they were in the pickup not knockin tims stuff at all but i would recomend changing them i know i will they arent that much and if those sprints or pieces got between the crank gear and the clutch gear or trans gears that would have been catastrophic just cheap insurance and i still run it and will continue too
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Have the hays clutch in my hand and thinking hard to undestand how it should be tuned. I think I need some tuning data starting point, but in the meanwhile a question ... I dont really follow this sentence in the above written very good tuning advice.
In this configuration your clutch will engage based on engine rpm (slider),your clutch lever will override the engagement of the clutch at any rpm and you can also hold in the clutch and launch the bike at any rpm you wish,no matter what the rpm engagement is set at.
Does this really mean that I could launch at any rpm, also at lower than what the rpm engagement is set at ? There is somekind of stored inertia to the arms which get released when clutch is depressed to allow launch also at lower rpm.s ?
The clutch does not have any "stactic" pressure in this set up. It will act as a centrifugal (sp) clutch unless you pull the clutch lever in and override the centrifugal force. So, yes, there is some stored energy in the arms and you have held the pressure plate from the clutch pack by pulling the clutch lever.
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I just bought a bike with a T3 in it. What would be the most "street friendly" way to set this clutch up. It set up for a 7500 rpm throw away at the moment, no to street friendly. I have never used a lockup or a multi stage lockup before. This thread is like giberish to me haha. I just dont wanna mess this clutch up.
-Rich
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This clutch has no throw in settings, you have to baseline in it and tune from there. I had 2 bikes in slider mode last weekend the 1397 did 1.25's and the bigger motor bike did 1.22's. The first Hays i ever tuned within 2 passes i did 1.20's at my weight on a motor bike, then changed it for the rider to slider mode and she did 1.20 60's. It's more then just having a baseline settings. Try putting a baseline setting in a multi and throw it away.... :wink:
I 99.9% never change the static (except for spring variance), i never change the stack height on a hand clutch and have never had to change the air gap on the slider to get them to work. As on any bike there is more then just how you springed the arms and how much weight on the arms. There is your clutch VS throttle your gearing, number of plates, chassis, your motor size, turbo or nitrous. That's why you can't have a baseline to suit everybody. You can either get a clutch that has many many tuning capabilities to setup for your situation or you buy a slider with little adaptability. But with the many possibilities comes the need for experience and knowledge on the different roads to get to the promised land. I do consults and track tune-ups for all the clutches and they're never the same. If the clutch doesn't make sense then your probably approaching it the wrong way to begin with or might not have enough experience with clutches. And doing a great 60 with a stock hand clutch doesn't make you a clutch expert, it makes you a very good rider. :D
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by the directions i pulled it apart to check the static and they were gone dropped the pan and they were in the pickup not knockin tims stuff at all but i would recomend changing them i know i will they arent that much and if those sprints or pieces got between the crank gear and the clutch gear or trans gears that would have been catastrophic just cheap insurance and i still run it and will continue too
Yes in triangle mode the springs need changed every 20 or so passes, i change mine every 20 passes and tell my customers to do the same.
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The weight on the arms adds clutch force based on RPM (higher RPM is more force), up to the point that the weights can put enough force on the clutch to leave (this is how a slider clutch operates).
The outer tension springs hold the arms away from contact with the pressure plate, effectively delaying the RPM at which the arms come in.
The most street usable setup for a high HP bike will be to use the stiffest springs under the hat, a moderate amount of weight on the arms (try a bolt, nut, and 2 or 4 washers), and no springs on the arms.
Keep in mind, this may tend to try to pull the clutch out of your hand and make the bike leave if you try to rev the bike really high with the clutch pulled in and the bike in gear.
keep a note of the current setup (including the total stack height of the clutch pack) before you take it apart in case you want to dragrace it.
Walter, Please add to or comment on the above
John
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The weight on the arms adds clutch force based on RPM (higher RPM is more force), up to the point that the weights can put enough force on the clutch to leave (this is how a slider clutch operates).
The outer tension springs hold the arms away from contact with the pressure plate, effectively delaying the RPM at which the arms come in.
If your at any RPM you feel it in the lever, the arms are touching the pressure plate. Mostly past 5-6000 anyway. The springs just soften.
The most street usable setup for a high HP bike will be to use the stiffest springs under the hat, a moderate amount of weight on the arms (try a bolt, nut, and 2 or 4 washers), and no springs on the arms.
I usually just take the arm springs off and load it with weight, 6 arms with 7 or so grams is enough for the dyno, it'll work on the street. I don't worry bout the static.
Walter, Please add to or comment on the above
John
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The info from the last two post in this thread is what I needed to read. Thanks guys for making it easily understood.
-Rich
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would those same principles apply to a MTC Gen II?
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what is a good combo for dyno setup on this. ive read the hays instructions five time and they still are not clear there are 4 sets of compression springs im only guessing here but looking at them the samller ones go under the top hat for (hand clutch/slider) and the strong ones go on the top hat for (full slider) use
does anyone know what weight the different smaller springs are.?
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would those same principles apply to a MTC Gen II?
Kinda, but way different animal. Static is important, stack height very important, arms same principle.
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what is a good combo for dyno setup on this. ive read the hays instructions five time and they still are not clear there are 4 sets of compression springs im only guessing here but looking at them the samller ones go under the top hat for (hand clutch/slider) and the strong ones go on the top hat for (full slider) use
does anyone know what weight the different smaller springs are.?
The difference is the smaller springs go on the hat for slider mode and the .080 biggest springs are used in hand mode. As i said above, street and dyno setup is the same.
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so what are the .92" ones used for like i said i have four sets blue , green , orange and the biger ones at .92"
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.092's must be new, i've only seen orange ones...hmmm?
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I just did the orange springs, no top springs and 6 grams of weight on all 6 arms for street riding and dyno work. Its grabby.
And be sure to install the thrust washer in the correct spot on the shaft. The previous owner of the turbo I just bought installed in incorrectly. Yeah, so read the manual haha
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The .091 Compression spring was developed for slider use when we incorporated the additional 3 arms into the new 6 arm model.
The previous springs were not stiff enough to give a smooth engagement in slider mode when using 6 lockup arms.
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The .091 Compression spring was developed for slider use when we incorporated the additional 3 arms into the new 6 arm model.
The previous springs were not stiff enough to give a smooth engagement in slider mode when using 6 lockup arms.
Very nice!
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The .091 Compression spring was developed for slider use when we incorporated the additional 3 arms into the new 6 arm model.
The previous springs were not stiff enough to give a smooth engagement in slider mode when using 6 lockup arms.
thanks tim thats great but you really need to make it clear in the manual or at least have an explanation of what fits and does what otherwise it is sometimes hard to work out unless you are the designer. not tested it yet but a great looking product :tu:
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The .091 Compression spring was developed for slider use when we incorporated the additional 3 arms into the new 6 arm model.
The previous springs were not stiff enough to give a smooth engagement in slider mode when using 6 lockup arms.
:bike: :bike: Ummm Tim do i need these springs or r these the ones we first experimented with....... Ive been running 4 heavy springs and two soft with one connecting two arms, Slider mode!!!!! Real consistent, jus nothing Hellafied sixty foots 1.29 1.30 ona full grudge chassis???? :tu: :tu:
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Mike,i believe i sent you some .091 and some .100,you stated that the .100 which stalled at 10k was to much for your application.
i have seen guys with gsxr1000 grudge application runinng 1.22-1.25 60 foot time using a variety of tuneups so theres no one thing thats the secret.
if you would like to email me i can provide you with some updated info that may help you.
as always thank you for your support.
Tim
one thing we spoke about before on your usig the nitrous upon launch which is a good thing however i have personally experienced pulling 1.24 60 foot times and pulling out 3 degrees of timing and next pass be a 1.29 60 foot,so i am still curious if your timing has anything to do with your 60 foot times.
later bro hopefully one day i can get back down to FLORIDA.
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got my parts today Tim! Thanks brotha. Gonna throw this new thrust washer an shims in today. This thing is beast now that its set up right.
-Rich
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Your welcome Rich
Thank You
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Just got mine, Tim send me the directions and I looked at his site. There was a thorough blog on tuning this and different configurations but the pictures I cannot seem to open. Does anyone else have this problem? Would like to see some different configurations and things. I have it street set up but looking at working on track tuning. I have the concept of single stack lockup down and can tune pretty good but multi I am still learning.
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Actually found 1 page of articles: http://www.dragbike.com/the-hayabusa-clutch-part-1-of-3/
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Street friendly single stage lockup with vids. You cannot use an OEM pack. I had 2 packs that I just threw together to get stack height. Over 200 miles tested, you cannot ease out this. You pull it in about a 1/4 way to shift and at a stoplight go ahead and almost throw it. DO NOT ease it out like a normal clutch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDJ-kzzTWFA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zW0B9yrXByQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzUYJ3FgQsU
Maybe 3 weights per arm would be better, I was going to try today but a vacuum leak is priority.
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Ok so the single stage "lockup" mode of this would pull out of my hand around 5500. You cant get too wrapped up in the terminology of the mode you are running this clutch in. What I was basically doing was running a handslider without any dynamic springs thinking it was akin to an MTC single stage lock up. It worked great for the street. It was horrible for the track. I couldn't launch over 5500 as it pulled the lever out of my hand and it was an immediate clamping, which was expected. There was no way to ease out the clutch. No dynamic springs, no slip. This thing locks instantly without dynamic springs. SO, next vid is me setting up a track setup that will allow handslider mode to slip up to a desired RPM. Kind of like a multistage lockup. I will experiment with springs and washers until I get it close and basically try and get slippage from it that will net me a decent 60'. Going to use the T6 adaptor.
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Street riding is a bad habit with this clutch. When in multi, you MUST not ease out the clutch. Its a drop it or youll cook it thing. Its hard to think about that. Full slider mode might be a safer mode for street riding guys to race with. I cooked a pack on the first pass.
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Its been a while, I haven't had as much chance to experiment. I had a problem with pack burning, keeping the revs high during burnout is critical as is superconsciously flinging that lever. So far I have not been able to get enough passes to really get close. But, last launch at 6k, which is just preboost for me, and the clutch tune amazingly kept it at 6k for 330ft in 5 seconds at WOT. It didn't burn the pack. I aged a year in 5 seconds. Next step is to launch at 7k in boost, maybe 7.2 if it bogs off line. Once I get this, I will show pics of how I have it. THis tune would work well for an NA engine but mine has nothing at all, maybe 140hp maybe less with no boost with such low compression. I may increase the wheelbase length. its track only bike now and no real reason to keep at 66.