SuzukiHayabusa.org
TECHNICAL => GEN II BUSA => Topic started by: madracer3600 on April 16, 2011, 10:38:06 AM
-
1441, 397/378cams, hand ported head(just cleaned it up a bit), pair vavle removed, k&n filter, and brocks alien head pipe. Not looking for precise number. looking for quess. I know headwork poses a big question mark.
-
what are the cam at and so on ?
id say 200
-
114,112 or 112,114 don't have sheet in front of me.
-
you have problems :bah:
-
who built the motor and put them at 112 114 if you like pm me your number i'll talk to you over the phone.
-
you have problems :bah:
what kind of problems?
-
you have problems :bah:
what kind of problems?
Your cams are way to retarded. Need to advance them. It is a wonder it is even running with the intake set where you have it.
Did you have the bike built by an old School 4-valve motor builder? Those cam numbers seem like old school 4-valve motor numbers.
-
what should they be degreeed at?
-
depends on what its built for most 106-108 some 108-110 but on some geb 2 they dont like it and throw a code. but im just throwing numbers out there i need more input of what your doing with it your weight and such i will call you tomorrow
-
so how much hp and tq does a stock gen 2 make on reg gas?
-
So what did it dyno?
-
so how much hp and tq does a stock gen 2 make on reg gas?
Bone stock 08 93 pump
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v207/469boy/2008%20hayabusa/Shamrock.jpg?t=1284435936)
-
Thats a pretty happy dyno,your 1441 should crack
230+hp and around 126-8ft/lbs on that dyno,
Which is fiction.always trust the mph and measure
What youve really got that way.if u can mph
A 700lb bike/rider around 158mph its making
Good power around 215-220 real hp which is
What it should make if built right.106/108 should
Give you max power around 10700.a higher dial
In will kill bottom end so u may have to gear
For 5 gears unless your really light
-
Thats a pretty happy dyno,your 1441 should crack
230+hp and around 126-8ft/lbs on that dyno,
Which is fiction.always trust the mph and measure
What youve really got that way.if u can mph
A 700lb bike/rider around 158mph its making
Good power around 215-220 real hp which is
What it should make if built right.106/108 should
Give you max power around 10700.a higher dial
In will kill bottom end so u may have to gear
For 5 gears unless your really light
I hope your not talking about my dyno chart I posted. You can call Up Ryan himself and ask him, His Dyno is more on the stingy side anyways. there were other bikes that day on the dyno and making what they did very close the other days they were there
here is the injector duty sheet
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v207/469boy/2008HayabusaInjectorDutyCycle.jpg?t=1303082432)
Think what you want but it is what it is. Brand new 0 miles broke in on the dyno for 4 hours.
-
Its not what I think as an opinion that matters its whats the drag strip
Says that matters.if your caught up in dyno printouts
You might be offended,but just dont expect
The bike to mph consistent to what the dyno says
Unless you run at below sea level density altitude.
Pat detriech also used the same dyno and rides
Very well and his mph even with an extended
Wheelbase was short of his dyno hp,s expected mph.dude,
I went to a dyno comp where 2 stock gen2,s
Made 183hp and my 1441 made 226hp,my 1441
Never mph,d using more than 215hp so im not talking out
Of my arse here,just from drag strip proof.pats made 223hp
On that dyno so theres your barometer.a stingy dynojet 250i reads
168-171hp for a dead stock gen2 and about 158hp for
A piped gen1 and about 176-180 hp for a piped
Gen2.At the end of the day the timeslip
Will be the same so who cares.
-
Its not what I think as an opinion that matters its whats the drag strip
Says that matters.if your caught up in dyno printouts
You might be offended,but just dont expect
The bike to mph consistent to what the dyno says
Unless you run at below sea level density altitude.
Pat detriech also used the same dyno and rides
Very well and his mph even with an extended
Wheelbase was short of his dyno hp,s expected mph.dude,
I went to a dyno comp where 2 stock gen2,s
Made 183hp and my 1441 made 226hp,my 1441
Never mph,d using more than 215hp so im not talking out
Of my arse here,just from drag strip proof.pats made 223hp
On that dyno so theres your barometer.a stingy dynojet 250i reads
168-171hp for a dead stock gen2 and about 158hp for
A piped gen1 and about 176-180 hp for a piped
Gen2.At the end of the day the timeslip
Will be the same so who cares.
Just proving that it made that HP. I took it home and ripped it apart before i even rode it. I turned it into a E-85 turbo beast so no worries
-
207hp/113tq
-
post your dyno chart.
-
for not [porting and small cams I think the hp is good but the tq sucks. It has to do with your high numbers tho in cam timing
-
tuner felt so bad about the numbers he told me to take it home fix it and bring it back. He didn't give me a sheet. He didn't even finish tuning it.
-
he actually thought the engine might be hurt due to torque levels
-
Check the headgasket,did u use studs?
-
Mine is almost.same.set up.as yours man....207-210 is what mine makes.....traps 155mph with me at 205lbs.....
Id say for the work ur numbers are right
-
i did use ape head stud. Going to do a leak down check and have mechanic redo cam timing and back to dyno. i go. Thanks to everybody for all the input. I'm learning sometimes the hard way or expensive way but learning. will probally be back at the dyno by end of april will post update then. :bike:
-
Mine is almost.same.set up.as yours man....207-210 is what mine makes.....traps 155mph with me at 205lbs.....
Id say for the work ur numbers are right
what kind of numbers 60,1/8, and 1/4?
-
post your dyno chart.
+1
-
Id have to look at eigth mile but 1/4 was 8.8 with 1.5 60fts....
-
post your dyno chart.
+1
from page 1. tuner felt so bad about the numbers he told me to take it home fix it and bring it back. He didn't give me a sheet. He didn't even finish tuning it. he actually thought the engine might be hurt due to torque levels
-
Another thought is clutch slip,you need good
Springs with a btl mod or itll slip through peak
Torque.i had my 1441 for 2 years and it was
A fine line even with brock springs if the stack
Height was only a little low it would slip a bit.the
Brock clutch cushion has a narrower ideal window
Than the stock suzuki clutch cushion.
-
207hp/113tq
So what did the tuner expect to see with the mods you have?
-
207hp/113tq
So what did the tuner expect to see with the mods you have?
he said his makes 240ish but he was really concerned with the tq. The tq numbers he was saying should not of went down from a stock busa that it should of went up about ten pounds.
-
Another thought is clutch slip,you need good
Springs with a btl mod or itll slip through peak
Torque.i had my 1441 for 2 years and it was
A fine line even with brock springs if the stack
Height was only a little low it would slip a bit.the
Brock clutch cushion has a narrower ideal window
Than the stock suzuki clutch cushion.
will pull clutch and check it. it has been in the bike a while. the clutches in the bike are the stock clucthes.
-
207hp/113tq
So what did the tuner expect to see with the mods you have?
he said his makes 240ish but he was really concerned with the tq. The tq numbers he was saying should not of went down from a stock busa that it should of went up about ten pounds.
240ish on a 1441 :hys: :hys:
-
with your head not ported your hp is fine your tq is wrong tho
-
Yep 207-210 is about right on a tight dyno
But not on that dyno,id be checking the clutch
And do a leakdown test not just a compression test.
A mate rode his 1441 and its results varied from
Good to pretty average,he smelt a rat and put it
Onto the dyno and it was down from 210+ to
180hp with no outward signs other than slow times.
Headgasket and clutch were the culprits.
-
207hp/113tq
So what did the tuner expect to see with the mods you have?
he said his makes 240ish but he was really concerned with the tq. The tq numbers he was saying should not of went down from a stock busa that it should of went up about ten pounds.
So he has a 1441 busa as well (that makes an alleged 240HP)? And he set your cams that high?
Something is not adding up.
-
207hp/113tq
So what did the tuner expect to see with the mods you have?
he said his makes 240ish but he was really concerned with the tq. The tq numbers he was saying should not of went down from a stock busa that it should of went up about ten pounds.
So he has a 1441 busa as well (that makes an alleged 240HP)? And he set your cams that high?
Something is not adding up.
tuner and mechanic are two different people. I couldn't afford to get the tuner to build me a 1441. he wants close to 10k for his 1441.
-
sorry for the confusion
-
Yep 207-210 is about right on a tight dyno
But not on that dyno,id be checking the clutch
And do a leakdown test not just a compression test.
A mate rode his 1441 and its results varied from
Good to pretty average,he smelt a rat and put it
Onto the dyno and it was down from 210+ to
180hp with no outward signs other than slow times.
Headgasket and clutch were the culprits.
do hd clutch spring need to be raplaced? if so how often?
-
They do soften with heat,but check the stack height
Or theyll slip with a billet hub or welded btl.
-
back to the dyno tomorrow. Degreed cams at 106/108. couldn't find anything else wrong. Will turn wrenches into the wee hours of the morning to make dyno tomorrow in hopes of making the mirock this weeekend!!!!!!!
-
Looking forward to hearing the results. Mine will be done within the next few weeks. 415/395 with port work.
-
back to the dyno tomorrow. Degreed cams at 106/108. couldn't find anything else wrong. Will turn wrenches into the wee hours of the morning to make dyno tomorrow in hopes of making the mirock this weeekend!!!!!!!
Well what did you come up with?
-
drum rolllllllllllllllllllllll!!!!!!!!!!!! 208.91hp and 123.75tq that is 8 inches over with a shinko. If it puts me in the eights i will be tickled pink! 225 unsuited :bike: See you at the creek!!!!
-
Looking forward to hearing the results. Mine will be done within the next few weeks. 415/395 with port work.
i wish i would of done mine different now? but live and learn. I would of went with bigger cams and better port work. but overall happy for the money i spent. 8)
-
9.10 at 152 at the creek. Don't think that is too bad for 225 unsuited!
-
9.10 at 152 at the creek. Don't think that is too bad for 225 unsuited!
Nice! You happy with that? What did you run before?
-
Not happy but satisfied for now. I'm not the lightest either. With a lighter rider easily an 8 sec bike. the best was 9.51 at virginia motorsports park. My sixties were a little off to. I think i can mess with the gearing and go a little quicker. It shifted to sixth right before it crosses the line. I'm told you are suppose to cross in fifth. Probally will leave this bike alone and build me an all out drag bike. And it is got to be busa powered!!!!! :tu:
-
Picking up 4 tenths is pretty solid gain. Now get it dialed in and I'll bet you will have the 8 sec pass very soon. How long is the bike? If your familiar with time slips then you already know this info but, knock your 60ft down (example) from 1.50 to 1.45 and right there you have your 8.99 pass. My old bike was set up to use 4 gears and once I tried more gear and couldnt match the times I ran with less gearing. Couldnt hold the bike down was the problem.
-
8 inches over. the best sixtie i've had is 1.45 before mods. but the best i got at the creek was 1.50. thought about trying an aftermarket shock. i will tell you that i was rusty. That was the first race in over a year due to shoulder surgery.
-
Picking up 4 tenths is pretty solid gain. Now get it dialed in and I'll bet you will have the 8 sec pass very soon. How long is the bike? If your familiar with time slips then you already know this info but, knock your 60ft down (example) from 1.50 to 1.45 and right there you have your 8.99 pass. My old bike was set up to use 4 gears and once I tried more gear and couldnt match the times I ran with less gearing. Couldnt hold the bike down was the problem.
If he ran 9.10 and he knocks off .05 from his short time, how is that an 8 second pass? He'd have to knock more than another .05 off in the rest of the pass somehow to get it, in addition to teh .05 in the 60'.
-
Because taking off that much from your 60 will double the time you take off through the rest of the run. If I go from a 1.50 60 ft and next pass all else the same, lay down a 1.46 short( yes less than .05) i will pick up a tenth. You just dont gain to that point and it stays the same the rest of the run, you keep gaining. Do you not race? If not then i understand how it could sound strange but time slips will show this time and time again. No pun intended on the time thing. :lol:
-
one tenth on your 60 foot is good for 2 tenths on the big end 1/4 miles kinda a rule of thumb :tu:
-
Ive found 1 tenth on the 60 is about 1.8 tenths
By the 330 and the rest from the 330-1320.
-
Ive found 1 tenth on the 60 is about 1.8 tenths
By the 330 and the rest from the 330-1320.
Going to look at some old slips and see what my show. Just know I have seen it happen. Now obviously on those passes I may have hit my mark on gear change better then the runs before. But guess my point is all Madracer needs to do is practice practice practice. At 8 over, he should be high 1.30s when he gets it down and easily running 8's :tu:
Madracer- quit screwing around and launch that sucker :mrgreen:
-
1 tenth in the 60' equals two tenths on the other end for sure,works every time,comparing two clean runs obviously.
-
went again this weekend to a local track had 1.45 on the back wheel(not sure whether or not front wheel clipped sensor) but track was shhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!ty(pad was great) and started spinning with the front wheel up in the air and slammed down right as i got off the pad. What kind of rpms should i be leaving at?
-
Everyone has a little different style but I'm stock wheel base just lowered and I leave at around 6k,you have to slide the clutch just don't throw it away. You have to get the throttle locked wide open once you get moving and manipulate the clutch to control power,easier said than done as it just takes practice but you'll get it some easier than others some never get it,lol.
-
i'm leaving at 65 but it seems like it wants to wheelie about 20 to 30 ft out. I was told that as soon as the shock rebounds any it will wheelie. Ok lets open a can of worms. What aftermarket shock should a budget racer run. I currently running a revavled stock shock by litz racing.
-
I've never seen any consistent difference in improvement from a change in any 1 incremental of the run.Perhaps if it is a fluke run where the short time is very smooth, the 330 is then very smooth, and so on, but I have never seen any indication that a good pass will somehow double an improvement.
I have heard alot of people claim multiplied improvements, but have never seen it. Doesn't make any sense that something done in the 60' can have any affect on how the bike performs on the back half, other than if it was just a good overall pass, and the smoothness of the pass allowed better other incrementals.
-
It's definitely a combination of the 60' and your 330' as they both have to be good to have that killer pass. If your 60' was a 1.60 and you didn't wheelie or have to back out of the throttle and it was a clean run and say you ran a 10.00,then your next pass is a 1.50....60' and the pass was a clean pass like your previous pass,your 330' will obviously be better which is really the key to a good pass,then you probably will have a 9.80 pass,2 tenths fater,works for me most of the time. It's not writtin in stone but in my opinion it's a rule of thumb and I have been down the track enough times to see some consistency more times than not with this formula,just my 2 cents.
-
I've never seen any consistent difference in improvement from a change in any 1 incremental of the run.Perhaps if it is a fluke run where the short time is very smooth, the 330 is then very smooth, and so on, but I have never seen any indication that a good pass will somehow double an improvement.
I have heard alot of people claim multiplied improvements, but have never seen it. Doesn't make any sense that something done in the 60' can have any affect on how the bike performs on the back half, other than if it was just a good overall pass, and the smoothness of the pass allowed better other incrementals.
I bracket raced cars for over 8 years. the 60 foot things does hold true in carbureted cars. a hundred of a sec improvement in the sixty would equate to 1.5 to 2 hundreds of a sec in the 1/8 mile.We could always find something that caused the sixty to change whether it be track temp, outside temp, humidity, and the list goes on. Most of the time the air was better which meant more horsepower. If none of the variables changed i could tell you what the car would run within a couple thousands of a second of its previous pass. But the car was computerized out the wazzzooo.On my bike i think i have too many variables to see a consistent difference. One varible that is not predictable is the loose screw riding it. I agree with the sixty in some applications. In maryland the best sixty came on one of my slower passes.
-
We all have few loose screws for sure,it's called a speed addiction!! No rehab is gonna fix it either,only the twist of the throttle or mashing of the gas pedal,lol.