SuzukiHayabusa.org
MEMBERS => MEMBER PROJECTS => Topic started by: fooorumi on September 02, 2012, 09:56:39 AM
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Hi all!
I guess it's time to introduce myself since I'm new here. I'm a 25-year old faithful Suzuki enthusiast from south of Finland with DIY-attitude. When building bike (or whatever else) I usually end up only to see it was more expensive, time consuming and lower quality than buying a commercial product but that's way to learn new. In the beginning of this project I didn't know a thing of hayabusa and especially nothing about turbocharging. Anyway after a year learning and struggling last month I finally completed building the engine and she gave me nice 320 rwhp (344 engine hp) with a slight clutch slip. One major source of information has been this forum so I want to thank you for sharing your experience.
As you know these bikes will never be ready and there's always something that can be done better. Well in Finland we (not so luckily) have this 5-month period when it's snowing and you can do nothing but build your bike. In addition to making some things on the motor better I'm going to at least paint the bike (DIY of course :)) during the winter and maybe do some fairing update. But first something about what's been done during last year.
When I bought busa 14 months ago my idea first (and probably idea of many other turbo enthusiasts) was that it's going to be a real low-budget ride with just a basic kit. Fast, affordable and easy. However after 12 months of building what I have is a fully built motor with W/A-intercooler and secondaries (DIY), pistons, rods, tranny race cut, and a lot of things I never knew their existence. Now I've ridden the beast for a couple of months and it seems to hold together. And the money issue... Well money she likes a lot, like a proper woman do :D I'll put some pictures soon but first there is one of the starting point when I bought this bike a year ago: Big and ugly with lots of unnecessary accessories!
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/bed64db3.jpg)
Engine prep:
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/P1030502_3_zps7ab57cae.jpg)
First I needed to find out what's inside the engine.. Opening the engine and reassembling it took some time and I found out handy to put the whole engine in a large plastic bag and zip tie it while not at garage. That way most of dirt and dust was easy to keep away
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/70f9e95e.jpg)
Every critical part in engine was checked and measured to ensure correct operation. Though the bike was old (1999) it was driven only 29 000 km and still in good shape. There was some minor wear at crank bearings and at one of the transmission fork but otherwise everything was ok. Crankshaft bearings was replaced and selected by haynes manual (stock clearances).
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/3fd6792b.jpg)
I had heard that while drag racing the second gear will wear fast and eventually slip off so I wanted undercut to transmission at the same time. Machining was made by a finnish drag racer and tuner Sami V. who knows hayabusa well.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/fed0f944.jpg)
Assembling the shaft was surprisingly busy as there were many similar parts and first I didn't know there's some oil holes to align and Haynes manual didn't say anything about that. It was maybe third try when I was sure it's assembled the right way. But hey not any problems yet :mrgreen:
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/95f32470.jpg)
Sometimes my workshop was extended to the living room as in the picture where my cat is thinking are you serious?! Operation piston ring grinding
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/f0f53d41.jpg)
This is cyl head before cleaning.. carbonized as hell but there's already some paint stripper affecting..
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/088276a9.jpg)
Cleaned by paint stripper and brake cleaner + steel brush
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/2cb2d778.jpg)
After cleaning the head combustion chamber's and port's sharp edges was rounded and glass ball blasted to ensure cleanness and avoid detonation (comb. chamber)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/79fb66f9.jpg)
Also new pistons (JE 8,5:1 turbo) was prepped by sanding sharp corners. According to JE pistons doesn't need any prep but I did some anyway, probably it won't make any harm and hopefully prevents detonation better :shock:
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/effe6619.jpg)
I also chose to replace con rods due to higher weight of turbo pistons and to get some margin if more power is needed in the future. The original target was 300rwhp and for that I guess stock con rods would have been just fine.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/8469453a.jpg)
Checking the deck height was pain in the ass cause the I wasn't sure about the right method.. Actually I tried to do this by several different methods but everytime I got different result. I ended up using 2mm aluminum plate under the barrel and two thin shims. That way I'm pretty confident to have enough space there and not lose valves
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/5dbfa6da.jpg)
Here we are degreeing cams which was another interesting thing to do for the first time.. There are some different ways (and degree wheels) to do it and some of them are easier than other. Anyway after a couple of days trying I hope my cam lobe centers are now at 106 / 106. If you are nice maybe I post a better picture of my GF too :mrgreen:
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/ab461493.jpg)
Just to keep me busy I also decided to extend the swingarm and powder coat all black. At this picture can also be seen my home made rear frame where I was going to mount radiator to get more room for the turbo but later decided to use original rear frame anyway.
More pictures coming soon...
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Welcome to the forum, in a big way. Wow you're off to a good start. Please keep it coming.
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Thank you supersuzi for encouraging feedback! Nice to hear someone likes to follow this up :mrgreen:
http://s1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/?action=view¤t=091e8478.mp4
At times I thought to put some videos that you don't get sleepy :bike: It is her very last self aspirating moments before disassembling the engine and putting there some true air flow.
Mounting a turbo
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/05ac96ca.jpg)
Then there was time to pick a turbo. A small enough to fit in easily and powerful enough to make 300hp I thought. (mitsu TD04)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/377c27be.jpg)
Then luckily I was patient enough, studied and realized I actually need a bigger turbo. I bought a second hand TD05-Big and this time I was sure I have right tool for the job.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/c86241db.jpg)
Well, I was wrong as usually. Very soon there was a brand new GT3071R at the garage waiting for installation. As we don't (yet) have much hayabusas with big turbos in Finland my friends laughed their ass off as they realized I was gonna use bigger turbo they have in their 200SX nismos :lol: Anyway I was confident that this will be just fine and started fabricating the manifold.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/329f1d74.jpg)
I began with the manifold by taking measures and making drawings (dxf-files) to get the flanges laser-cutted. It is pretty cheap so I don't see a reason to machine flanges. Btw if anyone is interested I can share the files and then you're free to cut your own flanges :wink: Then the next step was to find a place for turbo and weld a temporary bar to make a jig. After that it is easier to work with the manifold at your workshop desk.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/709b8e9d.jpg)
I decided to combine cyl 1 & 4 and 2 & 3 to avoid reverse flow to cylinder caused by valve overlap. Here are the first two pipes coming together..
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/edc991ee.jpg)
After a couple of hours I had found a route for each pipe and it was time to begin welding. Just because all want their manifold to be welded by tig I wanted to be different and used MIG instead :hys: Alright it was also the fact that I didn' t have access to tig anymore and didn't want to rent one...
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/80b07416.jpg)
Here is finally welded exhaust manifold blasted with aluminium oxide. Note the bung for mounting a pressure gauge. After blasting I face grinded flanges and prepared the manifold for painting
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/21de8915.jpg)
This is the way to do it if you're lazy as I just duct tape the paint can in the gun and spray :mrgreen: The coating isn't just black paint but a ceramic coating which helps to keep heat inside. Using this stuff is also the reason I needed to use aluminum oxide to clean the surface
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/28c8019a.jpg)
Finally complete manifold ready to install.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/c2b473cd.jpg)
At where it belongs
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/d7ef1a17.jpg)
Here's an overview of the bike with stretched swing and powder coated frame and wheels. K&N might give someone an idea that there might be some additional power inside :)
to be continued with the plenum next time...
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This is amazing!
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Very nice job and nice build! :thumb:
I always loved the Euro Black/Red early color BUSA's and with the Gold wheels it looks awesome.. :beechug:
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MORE MORE MORE. Super nice header. Its funny the size turbos you can use compared to the car guys. I have to remind them that motorcycle spin twice the RPMs normally. Twice the exhaust flow.
Really want to seethe pics of your manifold!
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Truly an amazing DIY build - I love the ceramic coating - have you got any details on the product for us?
What are you doing for an oil return from the turbo? I just re-made a scavenge pump for mine which screws directly into the engine cover. Beinterested to see how you've done yours.
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Truly an amazing DIY build - I love the ceramic coating - have you got any details on the product for us?
What are you doing for an oil return from the turbo? I just re-made a scavenge pump for mine which screws directly into the engine cover. Beinterested to see how you've done yours.
Thank you! Well here's the product info for ceramic coating: :mrgreen:
http://www.martelius.com/index.php?module=ekauppa&type=2&product=TL-BHK250
Basically it's a solvent based high-end coating with the best insulation capabilities on the market. Will stand 1100C -degrees (2012 F) without cracking or scaling. Also oil doesn't burn into it and it does harden without using an oven but just running the engine warm. In the small print there's a lot detailed information about preparation but basically the part needs to be cleaned by aluminium oxide or fine sand blasting, wiping with solvent and pre-heated before spraying.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/4d3a7557.jpg)
For the oil drain in my case turbo oil return pump is not needed as I placed the turbo well above oil level (see the picture). For turbo oil drain I made a pipe like this of steel, cost - zero :mrgreen: (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-Drain-Return-Pipe-Kit-Garrett-BB-GT25-GT28-GT30-GT35-GT3076R-GT3582R-/180962166842?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a222f883a&vxp=mtr#ht_1185wt_1163)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/190785df.jpg)
Then I used inner diameter 16mm (5/8") oil proof hose to connect turbo and oil sump. A proper way to go through the sump wall (which I'll do during winter) is to weld a bung to the sump but at the time there was a bit hurry and I didn't have access to tig any more so I drilled a hole (actually two, the first I made accidentally at the wrong side :x) and put there 3/4" hex nipple + a nut inside the sump (locked by thread lock and wire). In this nipple I welded 90-degree steel curve (not yet in the pictures) and attached oil hose to it. Not much pro but it's been good for 1000 miles already :bike:
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/9715945b.jpg)
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Love'n the parts in the house and the DIY attitude!!! Stay strong and fight the good fight!! :tu:
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Nothing wrong with using that bulkhead fitting - that's what they are made for.
You did well to get that big turbo high enough to gravity-drain :thumb:
That coating isn't cheap - £80 for les than half a pint! Did you use the whole pot on your headers?
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Looks like you are doing great. You got the turbo high. Your welding looks great. How bout those pics of the GF? :)
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2
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Nothing wrong with using that bulkhead fitting - that's what they are made for.
You did well to get that big turbo high enough to gravity-drain :thumb:
That coating isn't cheap - £80 for les than half a pint! Did you use the whole pot on your headers?
To be accurate it was 80 euros which equals 63 £ or 100 USD at the moment. But since my header is not RST some coating is needed and I think the price isn't that bad. Actually the coating's cost was the same as header material's (15 pcs of 90 degree curves and a piece of straight pipe). Also if I remember right I only used half of the bottle so I can sell the rest 8)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/4cc696f6.jpg)
exhaust manifold monster - header before assembling
Looks like you are doing great. You got the turbo high. Your welding looks great. How bout those pics of the GF? :)
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2
It is autumn coming and soon there's no use for bikinis but let's see what I can do :)
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Great project. Always like it more when people build it instead of buying it. You going to make an intercooled plenum next? Very nice work.
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Air/water intercooler / plenum:
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/0a423238.jpg)
I began with the intercooler by taking measures of the space available and then I bought the biggest core I thought would fit into it. Because of the high price of sparco etc. cores I decided to try china cooler and ordered one from Ebay.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/3f7d0917.jpg)
The first thing was to cut intercooler inlet and outlet away to save space. I left there half inch lip before the core to protect it while welding.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/592e2c77.jpg)
The next step was to figure out plenum shape. Because of the core size and limited space under the tank I didn't come up with too many ideas how to do it. I then used cardboard and duct tape to test if my design fits under the tank. One big problem was that the tank gets quickly narrow at front and IC-core is pretty wide. Actually I had to form the tank a little bit with a hammer and put small spacers under the tank bolts.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/cb95ef0d.png)
This isn't really necessary but then I made a 3D-model of the plenum / IC to get sheet metal drawings for parts that fit perfectly. Then accord to drawings I built a cardboard model of the plenum and double-checked that everything fits well.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/28b03462.jpg)
I also designed new injector bungs to get injectors as low as possible cause there is very little space under the tank (measures in millimeters..)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/c4a56f12.jpg)
Here are some new billet parts I subcontracted according to my drawings as I don't have a lathe or any other machinery currently.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/f393b84d.jpg)
and here are some water cut sheet metal aluminium parts for the plenum.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/5136614a.jpg)
Even tho not the original idea I had to cut one of the edges as it would have been hard to angle otherwise.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/af2d6175.jpg)
Here is the welded plenum. As I'm lazy in some things I don't have motivation to polish it up as it will stay under the tank :)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/b35bd354.jpg)
At rear there's place for engine temp sensor and MAP-sensor (McXpress-controller for extra injectors)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/5921b726.jpg)
It begins to be pretty packed under the tank :) Bosch IC-pump is behind cyl 2 and aeromotive fuel pressure regulator under the original fuel rail. I don't know if there's any affect in keeping fuel cool and constant temperature but I wrapped fuel lines with aluminium foil and hold it in place by plastic wire holder.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/b49661f4.jpg)
My first idea was to cool intercooler water by radiator located at the rear frame but I wasn't sure if it will be efficient enough so I bought a second-hand hayabusa radiator which I cut in half to fit it in front of the bike.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/587d1406.jpg)
IC-radiator coming together
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/807685df.jpg)
And here's some plumbing!! Everything except the filter fits inside the fairings. I also insulated the up-pipe to help keep charge air cool. In case you're wondering bout wastegate signal line there's a solenoid valve between to control boost electrically. This way boost rise can be controlled by RPM's and power delivery is smooth
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/f59755e5.jpg)
Not a bikini pic but here you are the GF finally, cutting my electricity :mrgreen:
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Super bad ass job on the plenum. Love the injector bungs.
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Man awesome detail thanks for sharing..
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I have a quick question. How are you going to keep the plenum attached to the motor? Once it builds boost, it will try and lift the plenum.
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Impressive work - puts some commercial effrts to shame. I like the design first, cut later approach. I did the same because mine's a *lot* tighter.
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I have a quick question. How are you going to keep the plenum attached to the motor? Once it builds boost, it will try and lift the plenum.
I fabricated steel brackets which are attached to aluminium plates on both sides of the plenum and then they're anchored to the M6-bolts in the frame. I don't have any pics but they are pretty basic anyway as they're just angled iron bars with holes for the bolts.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/a42f3a45.jpg)
Continuing with the exhaust the right flange in the pic was cut by garrett measures and the left one by own measures. The difference is that in my version 3-inch pipe fits into hole nicely when you just squeeze it.. This way it is pretty easy to make a straight 3" exhaust pipe. Because of the differences in the flange shape some places needed grinding to avoid steep edge
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/9805f005.jpg)
However, later I decided to put there a muffler to get the bike more quiet and it was easier to use 2,5" pipe all the way. Fitting 3" pipe under fairing seemed to be impossible. So after all there was no point of using that strange flange but if someone is interested in it I have drawing for this also. As can be seen in the picture I also had to move the wastegate actuator to this side cause there was no room at the other side.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/1c86e8a2.jpg)
As you can see it's been good old MIG again melting metal :mrgreen: I wish I had money to buy that AC/DC tig finally...
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/16cdc93c.jpg)
s(low) I go.. But it still can be ridden on the road even with my (or someone else's) GF as suspension spring preloads are pretty high :mrgreen: Good thing is that the muffler is the lowest point and oil sump comes after that.. Even though the muffler looks small it is practically straight open pipe and has almost 2,5" inner diameter
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/694bdcfe.jpg)
Almost ready to fire it up.. Still needs fluids inside
http://s1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/?action=view¤t=a879a42f.mp4
I wanted to publish this video also as accidentally I found a thread about priming the engine. I never thought that it would be necessary to do that but heard that some people have pretty much destroyed their new built engine with no priming. This way you can be sure that when you finally crank it up there will be oil pressure instantly. It's not a big job so whether needed or not I recommend do it every time reassembling the engine. (the thing you should be watching on the video is how oil pressure light act while turning the oil pump :wink:)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/4fd1ad2c.jpg)
Here's the power curve which is pretty straight line because of the boost control solenoid valve. It's hard to see in the picture but boost rises little by little. Because of this the bike is pretty easy to drive as power comes smoothly. After 10k clutch began to slip but I decided to let it be as summer is about to end and I wanted riding asap. The final result was 320rwhp @1 bar. I've read that stock clutch should hold pretty well even with 3 strong APE springs. I used 6 of them and original back-torque mechanism but still it was slipping. Probably the cause is that I didn't realize to measure stack height (only plates one by one) and it might be a little too small. Or if you have any ideas more likely please tell me :wink:
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http://s1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/?action=view¤t=small_zpsc71c8437.mp4
Here's a video showing how she looks with her clothes on as I actually didn't take ANY pictures of complete bike with fairings (+In the end bike went off, the comedy part) :mrgreen: I also had in mind to record some pulls with gopro-helmet cam but I kind of forgot it and last week I ended the insurance. Now there's again at least 6 months time to build busa better. Btw how long is Your riding season?? Maybe I should move to California or some other hotter place...
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/222180_529899227024564_1459374465_n_zpsdbd31610.jpg)
Traditionally disassembling the bike began by ripping off tire parts around the rear axle.. :mrgreen: This time I used the tire more completely than ever, as almost the hole surface of the tire was jammed around the axle and it took around 45 minutes to get all off. This happened after a couple 2nd gear accelerating burnouts against front brake when there was speed about 35 mph. Not much but after the tire exploded the bike went like a wounded dog and it was job to even get it back to garage!
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Hi all
As usually the winter has been cold and depressing and it's not a lot that I have done to busa yet. By experience I can say it needs those first sights of spring and sun before project really starts to go forward. However some little progress can be seen as the lock-up clutch is now coming (from the states, thanks Doug) so I hope next time in dyno we can raise the boost a little. Last time we had to run original settings by the McXpress box and still the clutch was slipping at 9800 revs.
To update the look of the bike I decided to go with the gen2-fairing which I bought from China.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/12120158_zps0c7c3ee6.jpg)
When trying the fairing it looked to me that the swingarm (which is around 4 inches streched) was now a little too short.. It's not a big issue but it disturbs me so a new 7" longer arm with under brace is now being fabricated. These was also available for reasonable price in the states so I didn't manufacture it myself which is uptypical :)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/12120156_zps69f90398.jpg)
I'm still considering the color of the bike.. Matt black is of course the most mean and looks always the best but I still want something different. I don't want any disturbing rainbow coloring like all-show bikes has but something controlled with airbrushed details and so. At the moment I think maybe some black, red, maybe candy detail and skulls, lets see what I come up with :mrgreen:
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Great work :tu:
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Looks good, Nice Job.
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Impressive! :tu:
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That thing is looking good. So how about the bikini pic? :D
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
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No bikinis here it's still almost minus 15C degrees every night! According to the news it's the coldest March in ten years!
http://www.foreca.fi/Finland/Lahti
Usually I would be pissed off because of the weather but as I'm still waiting parts for my swingarm, clutch is not installed and the bike is still unpainted it's better that roads are still icy and no one other can drive either :hys:
Tomorrow I'll receive paints and accessories.. Will be interesting as there is fe. red candy concentrate, chrystal effect liquid and some cool airbrush stencils. I'm still missing airbrush as I sold it some years ago when I was out of money.. I guess I need to get one from somewhere
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It still cold here too. Should be 80F by now.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
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any updates?
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Actually yeah there is :o I have just been so busy with work and free time that I haven't had much time to write here! The bike is now painted and still rocking hard! It's awesome riding a curvy road with a speed limit of around 80-100km/h and just open the throttle and press a little front brake and you could easily drift for kilometres 8) I'll be back on latest mods soon!
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Waiting for photos and maybe a movie...? :D
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Ciao!
Just came back from 'Eurotrip' with my girlfriend. Driving around the Europe 4030 km through 8 countries incl. Czech, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Slovenia, Italy, Switzerland and Germany for 2 and half weeks. If you have so much money you can't spend all to your busa I reccon travelling to you too :mrgreen: Over two thousand euros less money in the pocket bike building will be freezed for a time so it's good time writing here..
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13060545640x480_zps77d73344.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13060545640x480_zps77d73344.jpg.html)
Bikinis at Bol, Croatia
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13020048640x480_zps09b741b2.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13020048640x480_zps09b741b2.jpg.html)
Continuing with the swingarm: So I chose to buy already 7" streched swingarm from the states. It was advertised as a bolt-on and the price wasn't that bad so I though it would be a good deal..
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13020052640x480_zps200236c9.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13020052640x480_zps200236c9.jpg.html)
Problems with the swing began immediatelly when I took it from the package. Paint quality sucked and just putting it in a carbon board box had damaged the paint all over. The whole part including bearings were covered with blasting sand. I decided to get it painted again and was lazy so I said the paint firm worker to cover all bearing so they could be used again. Wrong again. Nothing wrong with paint this time but nothing was done to save the bearing so there was thick layer of paint in all needle bearing which was cooked in an oven when paint was dried. Fcuk. To the bearing store. Purchasing new ones took over a month because of long delivery times and the fact I had to order parts three times because of my stupidity. I always thought I have hurry and didn't concentrate... THERE MUST ALWAYS BE TIME TO DO THINGS CORRECTLY AT THE FIRST TIME!
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13040162640x480_zpsab732662.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13040162640x480_zpsab732662.jpg.html)
Finally I got the arm in and to my eyes it looks good in lenght!
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13040021640x480_zps17dccf5d.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13040021640x480_zps17dccf5d.jpg.html)
Before painting last minute mods were done including making more ground clearance to the fairings which were scraping ground in last season.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13040026640x480_zps3994d9a9.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13040026640x480_zps3994d9a9.jpg.html)
I also made outlet for the 'power exhaust'... :shock:
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13040028640x480_zpsb57dead2.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13040028640x480_zpsb57dead2.jpg.html)
...which was done by cutting the existing pipe and welding there a straight 2,5" pipe instead
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13040034640x480_zpsf2db752b.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13040034640x480_zpsf2db752b.jpg.html)
Again I cut cornerns and painted the exhaust by basic matt black hot-proof spray :)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13040019640x480_zps2ddc2540.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13040019640x480_zps2ddc2540.jpg.html)
Painting began by rubbing off the stickers which can be made the easiest by a rubber wheel attached to a drill. This is a very fast method and you must be careful not to dig a hole in there which you later then must put cement in...
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13040038640x480_zps795c1b5f.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13040038640x480_zps795c1b5f.jpg.html)
Here you can find almost everything which was used when doing the painting. Price tag without tools and mask around 200-250 €
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13040048640x480_zps0f882d3b.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13040048640x480_zps0f882d3b.jpg.html)
Here are the fairings sanded and finished with 400-grade paper
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13040154640x480_zpse51379c2.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13040154640x480_zpse51379c2.jpg.html)
Ducktail - because of it's unnecessarity - was always the first part to be painted. Here's epoxy primer before mixing...
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13040155640x480_zps8367e050.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13040155640x480_zps8367e050.jpg.html)
...and after spraying. This is around 0,5 - 1 mm thick layer which is then sanded (until 400-grade sandpaper in my case) before spraying anything with color.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13040172640x480_zps2a9e1c6c.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13040172640x480_zps2a9e1c6c.jpg.html)
On any other part there were no problems but with the chinese tail fairing (and all parts related) some grooves were formed. This was one pain in the ass because of the thick layer this wouldn't have been easy to remove so I decided to cement all grooves.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13040173640x480_zps6ba724f4.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13040173640x480_zps6ba724f4.jpg.html)
The really funny thing here was that the grooves were everywhere and because of the tail fairing complex shape both adding cement and sanding were really frustrating. I'm not still sure what caused this trouble but it must be related to the chinese fairing material somehow because this problem was ONLY with it.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13040200640x480_zps3858d9a5.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13040200640x480_zps3858d9a5.jpg.html)
After sanding I sprayed the base color which is Titanium (-spray) :lol: When there are multiple layer of paint and lots of work then one wants to make the job easier somehow... Sometimes I used spray instead of the paint gun because it's just much easier and when using 2K-clear coat on the top the paint job quality will still be high (assuming that compatible high quality products are being used..)
This is all today - I leave you guessing what will be the color of the bike when the base paint color is Titanium? 8)
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Okey Hi, here we go again (started already great - picture wrong ways :x)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13040205640x480_zps5b7e24cc.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13040205640x480_zps5b7e24cc.jpg.html)
Titanium was to be painted by candy red (mixer clear coat + candy concentrate color by SEM). Painting this must have been THE worst circumstances EVER. Because of the nice weather I decided to paint parts outside. mistake! After around 10 mins it started to wind like craZY but as all the equipment were ready to go I decided to continue. The job took a lil longer than I though it would be and after a while sun was about to set and it was getting dark.. Everyone who has painted knows how important good light is for the painting! It was about to get even worse in the very end and it also started raining and at this point I had to hurry to get parts inside for cover. As I continued painting with the very last part - ducktail, which I saved last because of it's kind of unnecessarity to riding - I ran out of paint.... Only the other side of the ducktail was left without complete layer of paint! fcuk! I was thinking I need to repaint everything but left all the parts to the garage waiting to dry up.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050010640x480_zps87570a8f.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050010640x480_zps87570a8f.jpg.html)
Next day I checked the fairings and put them on the bike. Surprisingly enough I found that surfaces wasn't THAT bad and because I was going to paint more layers because of the special painting I had in my mind I decided to leave them alone. Only the fact that ducktail was missing paint was a pain in the ass.. However I was very happy with the color - I had tried some years ago that very same candy concentrate but it was sprayed on a bright silver then. The result now is very deep red which turns into purple when watched further away. In dark conditions it even looks black and makes awesome effect in my opinion.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050194640x480_zps130328b8.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050194640x480_zps130328b8.jpg.html)
While the fairing were away for the painting there was good time changing the clutch. A second-hand 2-stage clutch setup by MTC came from the states. Hell of a cost but it's easy to see the difference to the original parts!
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050211640x480_zpsf55c4c7d.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050211640x480_zpsf55c4c7d.jpg.html)
When started painting the bike I didn't have a clear vision what I was exactly going to but rather a plenty of ideas which could be cool. First I wanted that bike overall color should be dark - not completely black. There also must be some special color used but not too much - so I painted the base with candy concentrate but wanted to draw a line somewhere and let the rest be black. I'm might be the worst photoshopper ever so I tested my idea the own way: painted a piece of paper with black and tried to tape that to the areas I considered should be black. It looked like shit and I'm not sure if there was any help doing this but I decided still to paint the lowest part of side fairings black.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050217640x480_zps3db82de1.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050217640x480_zps3db82de1.jpg.html)
I also wanted some special paintings / details to the bike but my skills with the airbrush hasn't been trained in a while so I ended up using a skull stencil found at Egay :mrgreen: This was also painted by spray because of the easiness..
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050239640x480_zpsf897cc46.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050239640x480_zpsf897cc46.jpg.html)
Here comes there creepy thing: Next what was about to be done was to spray caustic on all of the fairings! Well, I'm not 100% sure if it's caustic (sold by chrystallization effect paint or whatever) but it sure looks like it and also have heard it's pure caustic. So be alert doing this at home! :grn:
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050241640x480_zpsf915667d.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050241640x480_zpsf915667d.jpg.html)
The tank again.. Didn't want to have a strict line between the skull and the chrystallized surface so I just decided to spray the caustic around carefully without covering the skull at all.. I must say adding the effect isn't easy - actually this looks very different than it should because the caustic was just running down the tank. According to my tests I believe that to get perfect chrystal effect you need to be able to spray a solid thin layer of caustic which then is dried at once from an edge to the other maybe by a hot air drier. This stage of the painting couldn't have been done again so I left this alone as it kind of works still as you'll see later.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050247640x480_zpsf1a7a252.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050247640x480_zpsf1a7a252.jpg.html)
When one thinks that painting couldn't go any more strange we'll proceed to the next stage! Everything was painted by MATT BLACK SPRAY :hys: 'No worries mom I know what I'm doing!' I guess
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050251640x480_zps0cd33446.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050251640x480_zps0cd33446.jpg.html)
And - If I could say - the final stage of the chrystallization painting: Everything is to be sanded by a fine-grade scotch-brite. Here are the parts ready...
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050261640x480_zps66974ddc.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050261640x480_zps66974ddc.jpg.html)
...for the clear coat. These fumes aren't too healthly so be smart!
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050019640x480_zps448f020a.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050019640x480_zps448f020a.jpg.html)
Finally there can be seen light in the end of the tunnel! On the seat cowl some chrystallization effect can be seen even though it could be better. Anyway the contrast between black and candy red looks good and a kind of 3D-effect can be seen. After all I'm happy with the result.
http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050270_zps802408f5.mp4.html (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050270_zps802408f5.mp4.html)
I must say it's impossible to take good pictures of this paint and it's the best when you can watch it from different angles and in different light. Sometimes it looks red, black, purple and even brownish depending on from where you look at it. Combined with the not so good mobile camera it doesn't much enhance the view!
Here finally some shots of the result:
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050283640x480_zpsde61d694.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050283640x480_zpsde61d694.jpg.html)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050282640x480_zpsaa9f4f93.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050282640x480_zpsaa9f4f93.jpg.html)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050290640x480_zps0cd77088.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050290640x480_zps0cd77088.jpg.html)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050295640x480_zpsec45ef67.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050295640x480_zpsec45ef67.jpg.html)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13050286640x480_zps8d210728.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050286640x480_zps8d210728.jpg.html)
To be continued... :shock:
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Looks GREAT! :thumb:
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Nice bike :tu:
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Excellent work.
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Let us know how it goes this summer... and little problems you come across, long road rides, drag racing, etc...
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One of the guys (from Turku) I help out knows Sami Vittaniemi's wife quite well . Sami is multi time Pro Street champ if I remember correctly
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Let us know how it goes this summer... and little problems you come across, long road rides, drag racing, etc...
Hi there!
The season here is over now and the bike was running like a champ again. It was street riding only though but the redline was rocking like Skid Row and did some long-distance drifting on higher gears 3th and 4th with no problems at all (expect the rear tire premature wear of course). The only minor failure was that after standing still for around three weeks when I fired her up there was gas leaking all over... I believe what happened was that fuel in the pipe line was vaporized causing rubber to shrink and connections to get loose. This has happened to me before in older bikes with carburators and their seals. After a while being in touch with gasoline rubber will expand and seal again well. I just checked/tightened every fuel line connection and the problem was fixed, temporarily. I think I need to re-do all the fuel lines with proper fittings (AN-connectors maybe) to avoid problems after pause in riding.
One small mod that I made on summer was for the rear 'brake'. In the spring when I was teaching my GF for the motorcycle driving licence I had to take some lessons also my self. One sentence I remember well was when the teacher said that in an effective braking the rear wheel can actually be off the ground a bit. Later at the garage after a twelve-pack of beer or so I was watching the ugly looking rear brake system. Why the hell there must be lots of ugly hoses and cylinders all around the swingarm when in an effective breaking the wheel is off the ground and I don't even ever use that thing?? Took around one hour to take dimensions and maybe one more to draw by CAD new "rear rotor" and a sleeve to replace the rear caliber holder thing. The result can be seen in the picture.. Is it too clever to take rear brake system off?? I hear it many times but worked well for the whole summer. Also wanted to add the text just to confuse more :mrgreen: And by the way was it so that speedway bikes (practically drifting all the time) doesn't have rear brakes for safety reasons? :lol:
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13070550_zpsbf23a41a.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13070550_zpsbf23a41a.jpg.html)
mike46, I believe you are right about Mr. Vittaniemi but I can't give you much more info as I'm not in too deep in drag racing. I know most of the Finland's quickest and high hp-bikes are tuned at his premises. At the moment I believe he's also the most experienced guy in Finland to tune by EcuEditor. I can only give excellent feedback about his services / expertise; Warm greetings to Sami if someone knowing him is reading this right now! :thumb:
Regarding further bike building I'm now in a problematic situation as my long term building place was taken away from me... The company where I kept my stuff went bankruptcy so I had to relocate my tools, bikes and all away.. Everything's now packed in a small garage where I don't have room to do a shit! After this it was too close we rented a renovated garage just perfect for bike building - expect we would have needed 5 to 7 bike builders to afford it and we only had 3 sure candidates.... I cannot believe where have all the bikers gone as some years ago it was hard to get everyone fit in because of so many interested... Maybe we're getting older and people are getting children and married and all that crap.... Maybe I should comply... :|
Also what happened to me lately was that I kind of half-accidentally ended up with a new 27-foot project which is probably going to be a great pain in the ass for the next (5-7) months :hys: While on lunch my colleague started talking of a pile of glass fiber he wanted to get rid of as it had been lying in his mother's blueberry bushes for too long - at least for last three years the yacht had not even been in water at all. The price - which I have not even paid yet and cannot afford to pay for the next half year or so - was still so friendly I just couldn't resist taking the challenge.. Now I need at least re-paint the bottom, sand and give every wooden part a nice new clear coat or oil layer, fix the engine, renew all interior fabric and so on... I'm not yet realized if I'm stupid or really stupid but from somewhere these insane projects keep coming. And oh yeah there was also that one 750 intruder in garage waiting for complete overhaul :mrgreen:
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13090033_zps9da859fc.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13090033_zps9da859fc.jpg.html)
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Man this build looked absolutley amazing. I am about to undergo a similar build. Any tips you can share? Big hang ups you ran into? (I am pretty knowledgable in the shop, but never built a boosted bike before).
Eitherway, I am just awestruck. The damn thing looks awesome.
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Well for advice I would say decide your budget and multiply it by pi (3,14 or so..) :mrgreen: On the other hand if I had known the price tag of the motor I may not have started building it in the first place.
I'm not sure if can give you good tips but I can tell you what I did wrong. Let today's talk be dedicated to the failures:
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/13082011199_zps4aa05fb8.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13082011199_zps4aa05fb8.jpg.html)
Relocated engine water cooler inside the rear fairing. Manufactured a complete steel rear cage and modified the cooler. The idea was to get more room for air/air-intercooler. I wanted to fit a large A/A-cooler but in some point realized it was just stupid. Then I searched for alternatives and ended up with W/A-intercooled. This could have been avoided by clear thinking and not trying to reinvent the wheel again.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/P1030281_zpsd7b3ca95.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/P1030281_zpsd7b3ca95.jpg.html)
Before knowing anything about sizing the turbo I already had bought three. Again - first read and learn, then do. It's cheaper than vice versa, and more interesting.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/P1030494_zpsb1b4b093.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/P1030494_zpsb1b4b093.jpg.html)
The first exhaust manifold was of a too large diameter pipe. I had problems to do the bends and the result wasn't too glorious. Later I learned that actually smaller diameter (or similar to port size) is much better. And the overall design wasn't optimal - not taking into account the possible reverse flow (overlap). I also added external wastegate as I though that would be cool. However that wasn't really needed and it just added the complexity of the build and probably would have disturbed the exhaust flow in the collector part. This was also made of stainless steel which added costs. Not the way to go.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/01102011251_zps0f6edd13.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/01102011251_zps0f6edd13.jpg.html)
The lesson of this picture is never assume anything. I bought this T28 turbo from a guy who knew my friend knew well. Also the turbo was 'checked by a professional' and the price was OK so I bought it for 700 euros. I couldn't see the twisted nut and the blades looked perfect inside the exhaust side. I doubted to open and check the turbo because it was said to be checked and OK. Also I had never done it before so I was scared to twist the blades or break it someway. Curiosity took over me however and I took away the exhaust side cover and saw this - completely melted blades caused by lean mixture I guess. The next day I met the guy and asked the money back.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/29032012380_zps7e02a9ee.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/29032012380_zps7e02a9ee.jpg.html)
Sometimes things you think are easy are anything but. To be honest I tried maybe 5 different solutions to build turbo oil drain pipe. I couldn't find pipe and fittings large enough, then there were connectors that always were always pointing in wrong directions, I drilled a hole in the sump on the wrong side and so on... Finally I ended up with just simple go-through fitting, some basic hose and clamps :shock: Still holds together...
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii634/fooorumi_fin/P1040270_zps3766d98b.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/P1040270_zps3766d98b.jpg.html)
This mod+ harder springs was due to all writing online that the clutch is chattering or doing something that I had even never experienced myself (as I'm practically only street riding). Before even testing this welded hub I was again reading comments that actually this ain't working with turbos.... fcuk again I did some unnecessary job just because I didn't concetrate and wanted to move forward with the build. I never used the hub and bought a second-hand original clutch cam set.
There was also one unforeseen source of cost: Almost the complete building time of the bike I though I could run Suzuki's own ECU with 4 large injectors and a map-sensor. I didn't pay too much attention there because I though first I build mechanics and then we can take a look at the boost enrichment. Well I was wrong and had to buy an expensive additional injector controller (McXpress) and fit 4 extra injectors in. Cost for this was easily over 1000 euros and needed extra work. Maybe one of the biggest challenges these days with the internet is to find the most relevant and updated information.
There are certainly more where I have screwed up but these are just some I remembered... Hope you had fun reading :mrgreen:
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Awesome DIY work :tu: :tu: :tu:
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Top job !
Thanks for sharing :D
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Mates
This project is now officially finished and sold to a new hopefully lucky owner in Finland who during the winter starts to modify it for speed runs. I heard probably the fairings must go and new extended tail fairing will be installed. Other modifications - more power. I'm not sure if the new owner is interested continuing the story here, let us see!
Thanks for all comments and encouraging feedback I've received during the last couple of years. Now it's time to focus on new interests 8)
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Well, hello!
Like fooorumi said, he sold the bike, to me. :thumb:
Project keeps going on, main focus to this winter is to get the bike registered for the changes thats been done, and get it fully street legal.
But like said before, i like drive standing mile.
Foorumi did great work with the bike, and i dont want to do that all again, yet.
So i focus on small changes and modifications to get bike registered, and make it even more reliable. And little bit better performing on standing mile :wink:
One thing needed to make it legal in finland, is full lenght exhaust with silencer.
Started to do it from 3" stainless, and at the same time put Tial MV-R 44mm wastegate straight to exhaust housing. (http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s652/strengi/putket_zps68f64c6c.jpg)
Also fitted Robinson support bearing for output shaft, Robinson high volume oil pump gear and high pressure oil regulator. Just to make sure that output shaft can take the beating now, and in the future with maybe much more power. With the oiling thing, i just think that more is better, as long as there is no need to start the bike from cold. (under 10c?)
Hopefully you still like it, i keep updating when i get something done :)
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Thanks for keeping the story going :tu:
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Next thing to think is shaping of watercooled plenum, or "nose" of it, where air comes to core.
I have noticed that in BigCC and RCC plenums its pretty much like in this one.
But im thinkin that if nose parts continues forward in triangle shape, and pipe comes to it straitght from bottom, pretty much at 90 degrees angle. Air flow would smash onto top wall of plenum, and divide better to to whole surface area of the core? Am i rigt, or is there something i dont understant at all? :D
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s652/strengi/plenumi_zps1c057fa0.jpg)
Hopefully you understant what im trying tell, my english is not too great :shock:
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I would say an extra curve in the pipe line would just increase pressure losses which we all would like to avoid. In the other words you then need more boost just to overcome that pressure loss. I believe the major plenum builders do the described approach to avoid cutting the frame. If you want to have less curves you got to cut the frame.
Anyway where the inlet pipe is stretched for the core air slows down which contributes to more equal air distribution. If you're interested in fair share of air in every cylinder you could install some sensors in each exhaust pipes. If I remember correctly they like to do pressure and temperature logging.
New exhaust pipes looks pretty neat by the way 8)
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(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s652/strengi/alsat_zps766d9996.jpg)
Realized that my China Tial blow off came with stainless adapter collar (is that right?), so had to made few from alu, at same time made attachment parts for boost temp sensors.
Also got most of the electrics now, there was already PLX afr gauge, so i bought PLX egt and oil temp boxes, to be seen at same gauge. Also got AEM aq-1 datalogger from my friends dragbike, will probably log, boost temp, oil pressure, egt, afr, engine rpm and both wheels rpm.
There is alot of work in progress, hopefully get something ready soon, will post pics :)
Some sad news also. This project changed to kind of therapy project week ago, when my great friend and partial owner of this bike lost his fight against cancer and passed away, at age of 34. :cry:
He always wanted things to be done properly, and thats what i try to do now to respect his memory.
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Long time no writing.
Few more pics from last winter:
New 0-6 adjustable swingarm:
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s652/strengi/Saumlaumltoumlpalat_zps74ad0a1a.jpg)
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s652/strengi/suoja_zpsbpktf9in.jpg)
3" Stainless exhausta, silencer was painted black later:
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s652/strengi/putki_zps0bc105e5.jpg)
PLX Devices found their place:
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s652/strengi/purkit3_zpsyjephe1c.jpg)
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Already over 3000miles this summer, thats more than ever before on any bike.
Wondering why i didint get busa couple years earlier. :wink:
Few pics from summer:
From 800mile summer trip to Turku archipelago.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s652/strengi/loma2_zpsnj9kersp.jpg)
From same trip, leaving Alastaro circuit pit area. Got enough bags. :mrgreen:
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s652/strengi/loma1_zpsfva7beji.jpg)
Shiny after washing. Almoust missing matt black, it was always clean enough. :wink:
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s652/strengi/hipo_zpslmxkcru1.jpg)
Standing mile at Halli airfield, 211.88mph.
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s652/strengi/341kmh_zpsifausxy8.jpg)
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Something new for next summer. :twisted:
(http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s652/strengi/Hilut_zpsjpuzwcwd.jpg)
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Well.. Havent write anything for long time, but here is a video from the first start with new setup, dyno run and the last run we have made at mile: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NoABsA2P_ds&feature=share
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Awesome bro,you were flyin'! :tu:
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Thanks! There was only 550-560whp at use, but there was some heavy wind to right direction. =)
Now we have 8 months to do small improvements, and pay the bills from last summer. Hopefully got some more speed next summer!