SuzukiHayabusa.org
TECHNICAL => MODS => Topic started by: gmansyz2 on January 19, 2015, 03:00:23 PM
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For street use, what would be realistic weight savings with these mods.
'07 GSXR forks, wheels, and brake+calipers?
Fiberglass fairing and tail? Or going to a fiberglass GSXR fairing assembly and tail? Or as a Naked?
And how much weight gained back with a turbo setup? Maybe 20 pounds with the intercooler and the rest?
Going to a 1-2" longer McIntosh non-braced arm?
Thoughts please.
Tnx
G
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Bang 4 the buck a lithium battery will take legit pounds off your busa for under $200. Buy a used 99-00 aluminum subframe again will take pounds off for less than $200. After that it's gonna hurt your wallet.... aftermarket aluminum or CF rims will make a big difference on account of the whole reducing rotational mass etc. but will cost Big $$$
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I´ve used fiberglass fairings and have to say that one brand is heavier than the other.
If you are installing GSXR forks remember to upgrade the springs, they are too soft for Hayabusa.
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Thank you guys.
Who's Fiberglass bodywork is thinner/lighter? What about if I just went to a naked style? How much would that save me?
Got you on the Lithium Battery. Should help a little.
And as much as I would love BST's, they are out of the budget.
Perhaps another on the unrealistic side, how much would I save if I went to a late '90's GSXR750 frame and body?
What rate for fork springs? I would just cut the GSXR's to get what I need.
Thanks again!
G
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I have Airtech fairings on one bike and Catalyst on other and Airtech is lighter, but it`s more flexible at the same time and that`s why choosing Catalyst for LSR bike. But i think you can get them made either way no matter what brand, if you made an request for lighter (thinner).
You should check magnesium wheels, some of them are very light, and more are found used.
One friend put a hayabusa engine to 600gsxr frame and the change was more from the different geometrics than weight, eager to wheelie.
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Thanks for the Info Speedduck, much appreciated.
When ready, will see about the flexy stuff. May add my own bracing and thickening as well.
Just never been too fond of Magnesium wheels for the street which is why I am wanting to use the '07 GSXR1000 wheels. And when buggered, easier to replace.
Was the Busa powered GSXR eager to wheelie? I would think the other way as the engine moves forwards in the frame putting more weight on the front wheel. For better handling. Though I think the Busa frame is stiffer and heavier. Can always be wrong.
Tnx
G
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He had a 1500cc n/a motor in it and said it would wheelie at any gear. He tried to make it faster on a mile but didn`t help there. I think it was because the overall wheelbase was shorter. Just take busa frame and gsxr frame vs busa motor and gsxr motor ,where you get more difference in weight. You can carry busa frame with one hand for some distance without being an athlete.
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Interesting!
Now, are you saying that the Busa frame and GSXR frames are close in weight? I read somewhere that the Busa engine was 158 pounds bare with the 1K about 137 pounds. I am wondering where all the weight comes from. The 1K is like 444 ponds and the Busa like 585. Well maybe like 560 once you dump the stock exhaust.
Just wondering as I am also wedging a Busa in my '83 1100 Katana. Some fab work involved for sure.
Tnx
G
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I don`t have numbers for you but just saying that weight difference in frames is way smaller than it is on motors. And the difference what you can feel riding gsxr frame comes from other things than having lighter frame. But go for it if you have the time and skills to do the modifications needed.
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A busa motor weighs about 220 I think. Shipping weight on mine was about 250 on small pallet.
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If available, and your wallet can stand the pinch, a nice set of carbon-fiber rims would make a huge difference, not just because of the weight reduction, but because of the loss of centrifical rolling mass. I had a set of Dymags on my 98 ZX9R and was extremely impressed. That bike not only accelerated quicker, it handled with less resistance and braked very, very well.
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Umm..... Carbon Fiber rims are gonna do a helluva lot more than "pinch" your wallet! :hys:
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Yeah,
My Dymags were 4500 back in 2000. :mrgreen:
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Thank you for the responses.
From the new posts, I can now see that the weight is not in the frames. I already have enough Re-Engineering projects and prefer not to mess with aluminum frames. It was only an idea.
Is the 220 pounds with the throttle bodies, starter, countershaft cover, and exhaust? I weighed my ZG14 engine and without the starter motor, transfer case, TB's, exhaust, it was 175 pounds. Bathroom scale. This was without the parts. Transfer case is/was 13 pounds. Rear drive unit and driveshaft was 25 pounds.
Is a Busa engine really heavier?
I totally agree on the wheels. Would love a set of BST's, but they are way outa budget. Trying to keep it cost effective. And always worry if it gets stolen.
Please, more actual engine weights.
I will try and reassemble my Busa engine for a closer to actual weight so I am not looking like a fool asking stupid questions and all.
Thanks all.
Greg
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Okay all, got it weighed in pieces.
About 185 pounds. Give or take a couple. No Exhaust nor TB's. No rad or water either.
Now, to decide what I want.
Tnx again!
G
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What is your final target curb weight......i.e. ready to ride?
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I was thinking 470-475 before the turbo addition.
G
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I saw one of those new fancy smanchy R1A1ZR71 Yammys yesterday on the showroom floor. 441 lbs wet with claimed 190 RWHP. Nice lookin' and very purposeful appearing motorcycle. Look out! :shock:
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I Like the new Yami as well. It will give the BMW S1000RR a good run with the same power but I think will handle better.
Unfortunately, I hate all the shifting as these road-racers has a stupid close ratio 6-speed. And after paying $16K+ and then needing to spend another $4K at Robinson for custom gears, it is not very cost effective.
I may just get an '03 GSXR 1K and have Robinson make me two gear sets.
Laters You'all.
G
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Could you not get what you want with changes in the countershaft sprocket and the rear sprocket? Or would you be trying to hit six targets with 2 bullets, so to speak?
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G-G,
Problem with gearing taller is then first is a serious clutch slipper in traffic. While the Busa is a nice torquey bike, It would be a bear. I was looking to reduce the shifting by having wider ratios. More of an RPM drop between the gears. No road racing trans for me. And since the Busa is having a wide torque spread, the larger drop would not be any problem. The close ratio gearsets were for road-racing where you needed to be in the right gear for the turns. So you are not having to shift while in the turn nor lugging the engine below it's power band. And, after looking at pics of my Excel spread sheets, I hate shifting all the time as well. A turbo also helps torque too so even better off.
Laters
G