SuzukiHayabusa.org
TECHNICAL => GEN II BUSA => Topic started by: Ghost-Geezer on February 14, 2015, 09:33:21 PM
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Everyone seems to have their own affinity for a particular brand/weight and full syntetic vs. ester vs. pertroleum.
I used to run Mobil 1 10W-40 back in 03 in Turbusa before they changed it.
I then went to Amsoil Motorcycle specific 10w-40 full synthetic.
Now I am hearing that Motul 300V-10W40 full synthetic is a great oil.
I have even heard some guys run Rotella 10w-40.
The fact is, from what I have seen and heard, that oil selection can become a very emotional issue 'twixt racers and builders of fast/quick street bikes and track bikes.
What do most of you with hiigh mileage on either a turbo or built N/A motors use? And your experinces and reasons for doing so.
Just curious. I am open to sggestions.
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the subject of oil preference is one of the most hashed out subjects ever, so what the hell its sunday morning, its cold out, the only oil you should not put in a oil bath clutch bike is anything with Teflon or any other type of slick additives, other than that I'm not sure how the bikes eng could ever tell the difference between motorcycle specific oil and normal car oils, now amsoil, motul, and I'm sure 10 or 12 other (motorcycle) oils are great oils, but you generally do have to buy these oils at a bike or speed shop, and pay dearly for them, and I'm not going to argue weather they are worth the money, in the many years of bikes I have had, I have used about everything at one time or another, 5-30 10-30 10-40 15-40 20-50, in both synthetic and normal (petro) based. at times it would seem when the oil gets a lot of time oil miles on it the clutch may react a little different, no slip, but maybe a little grabby, but it was hardly noticeable, and the type or weight of the oil never seemed to make any difference, now personally if I can get a coupon and Walmart has it I will use 15-50 Mobil 1, and if not a good name brand diesel 15-40, Rotella is a good oil, in ether synthetic or normal, but if available I try to go with Valvoline, or Havoline, or Castrol 15-40 diesel, reason being although the Rotella is a good oil it seems to get shit up (gets dirty looking) faster than the others, I also use the same oil in the Harley's eng, ........now if you have a bike that has had the dogshit ridden out of it and the motor smokes or make unusual noises, or leaks like a sive, all bets are off, but the heavyest crap you can find in it 50 or 60 weight
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Mornin' you two old fucks, :lol:
Right now I'm running the Alisyn Pro Drive 21 in 10w30 along with the Petron Plus from Brocks and bike seems to like it,in the past have used Joe Gibbs Driven MX 10W30 Wet Clutch Racing Oil(as they call it)and for several years ran the Motul 300V 10w40(and always an OEM filter).All are a bit pricey but since I only average about 3,000 miles a year it's a once a year thing for under a $100 so I don't mind.I'm pretty sure Brock advises anything over a 30 weight isn't necessary(maybe a 10w40 for a 1441 build)and only kills power,unless it's a high hp turbo or nitrous motor and then maybe go as high as a 15w50.I think as long as you use a motorcycle specific,full synthetic in a 10w40 for a 1441 you're probably good to go(and if you're gonna change it every 1200 miles instead of every 2500-3000 then you can probably get by with something less and the bike wouldn't know the difference).
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Mornin' you two old fucks, :lol:
Right now I'm running the Alisyn Pro Drive 21 in 10w30 along with the Petron Plus from Brocks and bike seems to like it,in the past have used Joe Gibbs Driven MX 10W30 Wet Clutch Racing Oil(as they call it)and for several years ran the Motul 300V 10w40(and always an OEM filter).All are a bit pricey but since I only average about 3,000 miles a year it's a once a year thing for under a $100 so I don't mind.I'm pretty sure Brock advises anything over a 30 weight isn't necessary(maybe a 10w40 for a 1441 build)and only kills power,unless it's a high hp turbo or nitrous motor and then maybe go as high as a 15w50.I think as long as you use a motorcycle specific,full synthetic in a 10w40 for a 1441 you're probably good to go(and if you're gonna change it every 1200 miles instead of every 2500-3000 then you can probably get by with something less and the bike wouldn't know the difference).
Hey Bud, when I ride to and from work every day I average 1000-1200 miles a month, and try to change every 6-8 weeks, sooner if the oil looks like shit, and I never will say the high dollar oils are not worth the money, its just I have never seen a real difference in eng ware, I have had the Busa's eng apart several times after using different oils and have never seen any problem with ether 4 or 5 dollar a qt vs 18 or 20 dollar a qt, so this is why I go for a filter and oil from Walmart for $25, vs filter and oil from the bike shop for $80 or $90, I may be a cheap as I do the same with the Harley, and I get bulk gear gear oil from work for the Harleys trans, and use a 75-80 trans oil in the primary, I don't like it but have used the 15-40 Rotella from the bulk tank, after running through a screen of course, I will agree that if the oil is used for 3000-5000 or more miles the high dollar stuff MAY be better, but it still gets crappy looking in the same miles as the cheaper stuff, now it don't directly relate to the bike engines I have seen these morons come into work with there diesel trucks with over 10K on the oil, what kind of shit is that, engines running fine, I guess the bottom line on oil is use whatever you want the bike does not seem to mind :lol:
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Rocket,
Calm down. Just because you change oil early does not make you a bad person.
What I am searchin' for is an opinon on how often to change Motul 300V-Full Synthetic with PETRON friction inhibitor, with
street riding and maybe 10-12 redlines over a 3K interval. No track, no LSR, just street "Roll-on from a 60 and go to 175".
you know, fun stuff. Nothin' special. I just do not wish :shock: :shock:to meet my Maker on a stocker.
And if they ask me what has been done to my bike I will politely tell them I do't know except for the pipe
and the wheels. I bought it off a shop that was closing and paid 10K for it the way it sits.
:hys: :hys: :hys: :shock: :shock: 8)
As a side bar note: my son and I have a "grudge race" his 2014, 2.4L Stick shift 5 speed, Accord which weighs 3300 lbs vs. my 2.5L 2013 Ford Fusion, 6 speed auto with Drive or Super on stick, Lightweight alloy rims, Petron additive, and the option to dump the traction control in "Super" My car weighs 2700 with the new rims. I hope to take him to school/Power to weight, clutch be damned.
I luv youse guys. :angel:
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Mornin' you two old fucks, :lol:
Right now I'm running the Alisyn Pro Drive 21 in 10w30 along with the Petron Plus from Brocks and bike seems to like it,in the past have used Joe Gibbs Driven MX 10W30 Wet Clutch Racing Oil(as they call it)and for several years ran the Motul 300V 10w40(and always an OEM filter).All are a bit pricey but since I only average about 3,000 miles a year it's a once a year thing for under a $100 so I don't mind.I'm pretty sure Brock advises anything over a 30 weight isn't necessary(maybe a 10w40 for a 1441 build)and only kills power,unless it's a high hp turbo or nitrous motor and then maybe go as high as a 15w50.I think as long as you use a motorcycle specific,full synthetic in a 10w40 for a 1441 you're probably good to go(and if you're gonna change it every 1200 miles instead of every 2500-3000 then you can probably get by with something less and the bike wouldn't know the difference).
Hey Bud, when I ride to and from work every day I average 1000-1200 miles a month, and try to change every 6-8 weeks, sooner if the oil looks like shit, and I never will say the high dollar oils are not worth the money, its just I have never seen a real difference in eng ware, I have had the Busa's eng apart several times after using different oils and have never seen any problem with ether 4 or 5 dollar a qt vs 18 or 20 dollar a qt, so this is why I go for a filter and oil from Walmart for $25, vs filter and oil from the bike shop for $80 or $90, I may be a cheap as I do the same with the Harley, and I get bulk gear gear oil from work for the Harleys trans, and use a 75-80 trans oil in the primary, I don't like it but have used the 15-40 Rotella from the bulk tank, after running through a screen of course, I will agree that if the oil is used for 3000-5000 or more miles the high dollar stuff MAY be better, but it still gets crappy looking in the same miles as the cheaper stuff, now it don't directly relate to the bike engines I have seen these morons come into work with there diesel trucks with over 10K on the oil, what kind of shit is that, engines running fine, I guess the bottom line on oil is use whatever you want the bike does not seem to mind :lol:
sportbikeryder John calls it my "Beverly Hills" oil. :lol:
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Mornin' you two old fucks, :lol:
Right now I'm running the Alisyn Pro Drive 21 in 10w30 along with the Petron Plus from Brocks and bike seems to like it,in the past have used Joe Gibbs Driven MX 10W30 Wet Clutch Racing Oil(as they call it)and for several years ran the Motul 300V 10w40(and always an OEM filter).All are a bit pricey but since I only average about 3,000 miles a year it's a once a year thing for under a $100 so I don't mind.I'm pretty sure Brock advises anything over a 30 weight isn't necessary(maybe a 10w40 for a 1441 build)and only kills power,unless it's a high hp turbo or nitrous motor and then maybe go as high as a 15w50.I think as long as you use a motorcycle specific,full synthetic in a 10w40 for a 1441 you're probably good to go(and if you're gonna change it every 1200 miles instead of every 2500-3000 then you can probably get by with something less and the bike wouldn't know the difference).
Hey Bud, when I ride to and from work every day I average 1000-1200 miles a month, and try to change every 6-8 weeks, sooner if the oil looks like shit, and I never will say the high dollar oils are not worth the money, its just I have never seen a real difference in eng ware, I have had the Busa's eng apart several times after using different oils and have never seen any problem with ether 4 or 5 dollar a qt vs 18 or 20 dollar a qt, so this is why I go for a filter and oil from Walmart for $25, vs filter and oil from the bike shop for $80 or $90, I may be a cheap as I do the same with the Harley, and I get bulk gear gear oil from work for the Harleys trans, and use a 75-80 trans oil in the primary, I don't like it but have used the 15-40 Rotella from the bulk tank, after running through a screen of course, I will agree that if the oil is used for 3000-5000 or more miles the high dollar stuff MAY be better, but it still gets crappy looking in the same miles as the cheaper stuff, now it don't directly relate to the bike engines I have seen these morons come into work with there diesel trucks with over 10K on the oil, what kind of shit is that, engines running fine, I guess the bottom line on oil is use whatever you want the bike does not seem to mind :lol:
sportbikeryder John calls it my "Beverly Hills" oil. :lol:
Up until a few years ago I did not know who or what Alisyn oil was never had heard of it, then I seen a sticker on a pro mod car and got to talking with the guy, he gets it as part of his sponsor deal the rest of us would have to pay of course, and from what I see that it cost we pay pretty dearly.......Bud, Dave and the rest of you guys, I am no metallurgist well versed in oil testing, its just years of engine work, teardowns and seeing what there is to see inside, I just cannot justify the extra cost of the fancy brand name oils, nothing at all wrong running the high dollar stuff, and I'm not saying its not worth it........... but to me its not
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It's actually pretty reasonably priced from Brocks(about $11.00 a qt.),I'll probably run it again on the next change.
http://www.brocksperformance.com/10W30-Alisyn-Synthetic-Oil-Gallon+I790206+C79.aspx
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What is the difference in piston to cylinder wall clearance for a 1441 vs. stock? That would seem to dictate part of the reason to go to a bit heavier oil if we are talkin' a "significant" difference.
Will ya be using the Petron?
Brocks swears by the stuff - sez it clings to ALL internal metal surfaces, not just ferrous material. And it is safe for the wet clutch.
I dumped a bottle in my 2013 Fusion..........just for fun. :shock:
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I added the Petron to the Alisyn 10w30 and no clutch slippage,bike shifts buttery smooth,etc.Can't really say(myself)if it has any positive advantage,but if it does help reduce friction/which would also reduce heat/which may also free up a hp then I'm good with it(like I said,I only put on about 2,800 miles per year[3 year average]and the Alisyn,Petron,and OEM filter run about $90 for a once a year oil change).
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Has anyone ever heard of an oil related engine failure when the oil wasn't dirty and the filter wasn't clogged? Ever?
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Excellent question. In all my 67 years on the planet, I have not heard of an oil responsible for an engine failure..........cars or bikes...........what I have had is personal experience with as the Service Writer/Office Manager in an auto-repair shop and working for Danny Johnson at "Johnson Hi-Performance" back in the mid 90's is two types of oil related "failure" issues.
1. Run the car or truck or bike low/out of oil.
2. Change the oil, whether you want to or not, every 20,000 miles.
Both spell "The Black Death" for an engine.
My understanding of an oil and it's "appearance" either in the windows of our Busas or on the dipstick of a car/truck speaks volumes. The dark stuff you see in the oil is made up of two things...............carbon from the combustion process with the crap gas we get at the pump and more importantly and more to the point, microscopic parts of our engines wearing and getting suspended in the oil. My philosopy on that is to get the bestest oil you can lay your mitts on that will fill the lubricity and protection requirements, while staying as clean as possible between changes.
Thoughts?
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Has anyone ever heard of an oil related engine failure when the oil wasn't dirty and the filter wasn't clogged? Ever?
Some pulling tractors require oil with EP additives in it to keep the bearings from sticking to the crank, 185 psi of boost will do that for you.
Other than that NO, I have never seen a failure caused by oil.
My oil preference is Mobile 1, the only reason for that is we run Mobile lubricants in all the equipment at work and we have gear boxes with well over 100,000 hours on them.
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Flatland,
The Mobil 1 we bought 10 years ago was a pure, full, synthetic. After doing a bit of research online, I discovered, to my amazement, that even though Mobil 1 is still sold/marketed as a full synthetic, IT IS NOT. It is a mixture of "semi-synthetics". I will not buy it anymore.
Dave
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Flatland,
The Mobil 1 we bought 10 years ago was a pure, full, synthetic. After doing a bit of research online, I discovered, to my amazement, that even though Mobil 1 is still sold/marketed as a full synthetic, IT IS NOT. It is a mixture of "semi-synthetics". I will not buy it anymore.
Dave
I am well aware of that fact, the base oil has very little to do with how an oil performs, that is dependent on the additives.
Also having seen cars with over 450,000 miles on them and heavy equipment with over 20,000 hours without being overhauled, having run on conventional oil, 100% synthetic means very little other than being a marketing buzz line.
I used to be a designer oil fan, (royal purple, red line, motoul, etc.) but when you take the time to dig down through all the marketing mumbojumbo, they are no better that off the shelf house brand NAPA oil for $2 a quart.
It comes down to personal preference. The important thing is to get it changed before the oil starts breaking down/getting contaminated. Contamination in an internal combustion engine is far more of a limit on oil life than the oil itself actually breaking down. No synthetic no matter how expensive can prevent contamination.
And the equipment I previously mentioned with well over 100,000 hours runtime???, all of it runs conventional oil and 4000 hour change intervals.
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Touche. :thumb:
In support of your position, we once had a Lexus come in to the shop with a starter issue. It had 515,000 miles on it, original owner, original engine, and he was a salesman who did a lot of hiway miles. All he did was change his oil religiously every 3K miles since he bought the car new. And he used conventional oil.
We also had a guy come in with a blown engine (rod bearings gone) in his Chrysler Minivan at 110K miles..........he used a "full synthetic" and changed it religiously every 10,000 miles. Wrong answer.
One thing more, on your heavy equipment longevity, I would suspect large quantities of oil to fill the pan...........that would be a great help to longer engine life also.
My 2005 Mercedes SL55AMG had a 12 quart oil pan..............that is a lot of oil for a 5.5 litre V-8.
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In summary, it would appear that selecting a particular brand of oil remains, to a degree, a matter of personal taste. I, being kind of older now, have a tendency to err on the side of caution. Once all the internals are "broken in" I will be using either Brock's Alisyn 10W30 with Petron or Motul 300V10-40 with Petron. Rodney likes the Motul. The ONLY reason I am going that route is so I can sleep better at night. I need all the rest I can get in my advance years.
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I like oil that's designed for the total opposite engine application, close to home and most importantly the cheapest oil they manufacture. Example Millers oil, Maxima, Motul, Brad Penn..
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Dave
I have used Mobile 1, Red line, Amsoil. I have not used shell. All the vehicles Harley, Titan Pickup, Busa, The quitest is the Amsoil.The worst is red line. I know red line about 30 mi from me and see him all the time. If i was running fuel i would just run any 60 or 70 fuel weight its only 3 or 4 seconds.
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I run Amsoil in my CBX and Hayabusa and since my Vette came with Mobil One I still use it. Both bikes have over 60,000 and the Vette just turned over 74,000 miles. I have absolutely no complaints about either.
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I run Amsoil in my CBX and Hayabusa and since my Vette came with Mobil One I still use it. Both bikes have over 60,000 and the Vette just turned over 74,000 miles. I have absolutely no complaints about either.
I ran Amsoil Motorcycle Specific 10w-40 Full Synthetic in my last stock Busa. It stayed cleaner in the sight glass longer than most. Motor was quiet as well.
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Anyone heard of Alysyn's "less than zero" Motorcycle Specific Full Synthetic. I have been led to believe that the Alysyn in a stock motor with the additive Petron could be a good match up.
Any input? No issue if not.
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My 2005 Mercedes SL55AMG had a 12 quart oil pan..............that is a lot of oil for a 5.5 litre V-8.
Ahhh,a Mercedes man. Ive had several AMG's and still hold this record for the W211 E series:
http://www.dragtimes.com/blog/first-stock-mercedes-benz-e63-amg-runs-11s-in-the-14-mile
Does that make us Benzo-buddies now? :mrgreen:
And yeah,the $250 oil changes with Mobil-1 at the dealer sucked :eek:
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I bought the car with 4K miles on it in 2006, it was a 2005 and was rated at 497 HP. Paid 91.5. I sent out the ECU and had it uploaded with a new program to go with the aftermarket pulley we put on the supercharger to spin it up a tad. Car made 550 when we were done. Top end limiter of 155 was trashed as well.............top speed was supposed to be 202. Never found out.
Pulley and associated parts including reprogram of ECU was 10K. My buddy at Import Specialists installed the pulley for a case of beer. Took tremendous torque to secure it, had to use a breaker bar over the wrench. I was truly nuts back then.
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My 2005 Mercedes SL55AMG had a 12 quart oil pan..............that is a lot of oil for a 5.5 litre V-8.
Ahhh,a Mercedes man. Ive had several AMG's and still hold this record for the W211 E series:
http://www.dragtimes.com/blog/first-stock-mercedes-benz-e63-amg-runs-11s-in-the-14-mile
Does that make us Benzo-buddies now? :mrgreen:
And yeah,the $250 oil changes with Mobil-1 at the dealer sucked :eek:
You must have removed every ounce of legal weight you could, right down to letting the air out of the spare. Nice work. I would have worried ya, though, with that 2005...just barely breathed upon. Each friggin' engine had a plaque on it sighed by the ONE MAN that assembled that engine from start to finish. Nice car. Loved the convertible hardtop.......Blew peoples' minds at stoplights. Triple adjustable suspension to lower ground clearance was neat as well. It was smooth as it could be at 160-170..........then I backed out. Survival instinct took over.
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My 2005 Mercedes SL55AMG had a 12 quart oil pan..............that is a lot of oil for a 5.5 litre V-8.
Ahhh,a Mercedes man. Ive had several AMG's and still hold this record for the W211 E series:
http://www.dragtimes.com/blog/first-stock-mercedes-benz-e63-amg-runs-11s-in-the-14-mile
Does that make us Benzo-buddies now? :mrgreen:
And yeah,the $250 oil changes with Mobil-1 at the dealer sucked :eek:
You must have removed every ounce of legal weight you could, right down to letting the air out of the spare. Nice work. I would have worried ya, though, with that 2005...just barely breathed upon. Each friggin' engine had a plaque on it sighed by the ONE MAN that assembled that engine from start to finish. Nice car. Loved the convertible hardtop.......Blew peoples' minds at stoplights. Triple adjustable suspension to lower ground clearance was neat as well. It was smooth as it could be at 160-170..........then I backed out. Survival instinct took over.
I had a C55,an 05 E55 and and 06 CLS55 before I had the E63 so yes,I do know about the supecharged AMG's. Lots of fun;I was VERY into the Mercedes/AMG scene. I remeber sending a letter to the dude Hanz that assembled my engine on the record holding E63,he wrote back he was very happy and proud. That E63 was bone stock,right down to the tires. I even had the babyseat in then back;if you watvh the vid on dragtimes you will see it in the back lol. I wish I still had that E55. Was my favorite out of all of em. Ahh the good ole days before the economy took a shit lol.
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Yeah, the good old days, when I had money to burn..................should have been a little more careful with my investments. The new Merz calims around 618 hp out of a v-12. We have to figure a way to raise that to about 800 or so. :tu:
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Yeah, the good old days, when I had money to burn..................should have been a little more careful with my investments. The new Merz calims around 618 hp out of a v-12. We have to figure a way to raise that to about 800 or so. :tu:
You&me both Uncle Dave,you and me both :(
So,are you referring to the V-12 TT? Man,an ECU flash from AMS,ReNNtech or a few other top-notch tuners bumps HP&TQ quite a bit. I had always wanted an SL65..738ft/lbs stock. A friend had a tuned SL65,made 800rwhp and over 1000ft/lbs. Talk about being pinned to the back of the seat when you mashed the throttle :shock:
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Yes, that is the car. RennTech is where I got my new pulley and the ECU flash for my SL55AMG. Quality parts. Pricey, though.
I cannot imagine 800 HP and 1K ft lbs. Off my understanding scale.
All those engines AMG series are "overbuilt"/i.e. able to put out a lot more without worry of breakage, IMO.
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The limiting factor with the AMG cars was for the most part not the engine but the transmission. The engines were often detuned so the maximum torque the transmissions could handle was not exceeded.
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That makes perfect sense..............I added only 50 hp and the car ran faster and quicker, but that was only 50 out of 550. I would suspect that the tranny would be OK with maybe 75-100 more HP, but after that, who knows?
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That makes perfect sense..............I added only 50 hp and the car ran faster and quicker, but that was only 50 out of 550. I would suspect that the tranny would be OK with maybe 75-100 more HP, but after that, who knows?
The S/C AMG's from that era had the same trans as the top-dog SL65&CL-65. That 5-sp could handle A LOT,more than any supercharged AMG could throw at it. Like was posted above,once u reached a certain point in torque thats when things got iffy. But they handled 800-900 ft/lbs with ease
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That makes perfect sense..............I added only 50 hp and the car ran faster and quicker, but that was only 50 out of 550. I would suspect that the tranny would be OK with maybe 75-100 more HP, but after that, who knows?
The S/C AMG's from that era had the same trans as the top-dog SL65&CL-65. That 5-sp could handle A LOT,more than any supercharged AMG could throw at it. Like was posted above,once u reached a certain point in torque thats when things got iffy. But they handled 800-900 ft/lbs with ease
The C-Class, E-Class, CLS etc all have basically the same AMG V-8 engine but in different state of tune due to the gearbox mounted in a particular model. The C-Class is normally at the bottom and the SL at the top.
I really enjoyed the normally aspirated 6.3 but the current TTV8 does great at the high density altitudes we have here in Vegas durning the summer.
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That makes perfect sense..............I added only 50 hp and the car ran faster and quicker, but that was only 50 out of 550. I would suspect that the tranny would be OK with maybe 75-100 more HP, but after that, who knows?
The S/C AMG's from that era had the same trans as the top-dog SL65&CL-65. That 5-sp could handle A LOT,more than any supercharged AMG could throw at it. Like was posted above,once u reached a certain point in torque thats when things got iffy. But they handled 800-900 ft/lbs with ease
The C-Class, E-Class, CLS etc all have basically the same AMG V-8 engine but in different state of tune due to the gearbox mounted in a particular model. The C-Class is normally at the bottom and the SL at the top.
I really enjoyed the normally aspirated 6.3 but the current TTV8 does great at the high density altitudes we have here in Vegas durning the summer.
Yeah,the E&CLS 55 are basically identical drivetrains. I really enjoyed my C55 when I got it,I was the only one that had one in NY at the time. It replace the C32 S/C V-6. That C surprised A LOT of Vette owners at the time lol. Then I took a test ride in a W211 E55 when I took the C55 for oil change. I traded it in that same day for a Flint Grey E55 lol! In the heat&humidity of the summer,with the A/C blasting it would rip off 12.30-12.40 1/4mi all day...until the intercooler pump took a shit lol....My wife too the E to work one day and got hit by a woman in an Escalade who ran a red light cause she was yapping on her cell. Hit the E55 dead smack on the left side front wheel.
Cracked the engine block and car was a write off. MB qouted the AMG short block alone for $40,000 if I remember correctly. It was mid year in '06 and there were no replacement E55's in coming form Germany so I reluctantly settled for a Flint Grey E63. ...
Loved the sound,loved the 7G trans,loved the higher redline,but missed the low-end grunt of the E55. Especially around town hauling the kid and groceries. I de-badged mine so it looked like an E350 w an AMG appearance package;only an AMG enthusiast could tell by looking at it lol. Would run 12.0's all day long in cool dense air of the NorthEast in the fall. Eventually running that 11.95 which is still the record for a 100% bone stocker. Could never afford to mod it,as LT headers from the cheapest vendor were still $3000+
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Now that is a Merz enthusiast. :yes:
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Sounds like a great collection of cars. I really like the AMG line myself and my ex had an SL. It is interesting to see how the engine recipe has changed over the years from supercharged to large displacement normally aspirated engines and now TTV8. But I have to admit, I’m a BMW guy. The M cars are very appealing to me and my favorite was the E-60 M5 with a 5 liter, 500 hp V-10 revving 8250 rpm. I loved that car. The new one, the F10 with a 560 hp TTV8 does not have the soul of the prior model.
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my favorite was the E-60 M5 with a 5 liter, 500 hp V-10 revving 8250 rpm. I loved that car
Ahh yes. The E-60. That car(once de-restricted)had an amzing top end. It was a legit 200mph car,if given enough room to stretch its legs. Buddy was on his 1st Gen ZX14 and did a 60-190 roll against another friend in his M5.. the 14 shot out as expected but once it topped out around 185mph the M5 slowly caught up and proceeded to walk right past the 14 and kept going until he shut down around 200mph. My buddy on the 14 was in utter disbelief that the car had a greater top end then his bike. :lol:
And yes,that V10 wail is sex for the ears. This particular car had an Eisenmann exhaust and was just music to my ears. That V-10 w the SMG trans was an instant classic when it rolled off the assembly line :tu:
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Mercedes seems to me to always making certain that none of their car lines get "old". It is like every time you look their is a new Merz for less money that will out-perform our old cars. In some ways, anyhow. I would suggest, if I was a design engineer at Merz, to put twin turbos on the V-12, and place that in a two seater hardtop convertible, with the strongest transmission they can build and expect to live. Prolly only talking 800-825 HP. And torque.
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Most people would never suspect a regular looking family sedan would do 200 MPH but just like you stated, the E-60 would. Loved, loved, loved that car.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/Wolf14/IMGP2671.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Wolf14/media/IMGP2671.jpg.html)
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Dave, you wish has come true. The SL 65 AMG is equipped with a twin turbo V-12. 621 hp and 738 ft-lb of torque. But you might need to get a hammer out of your Craftsman toolbox and give your piggybank a whack since the car starts at $215k.
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Dave, you wish has come true. The SL 65 AMG is equipped with a twin turbo V-12. 621 hp and 738 ft-lb of torque. But you might need to get a hammer out of your Craftsman toolbox and give your piggybank a whack since the car starts at $215k.
Dave&Wolfe,I was poking arounf on the MBusa website and could not believe the $215k sticker for the Big Daddy SL65!. When I had my last AMG back in 09 the mighty SL was $185k.
The sad part is,how absurdly fast the Benzo's(especially the AMG)depreciate. You can buy a fully loaded 09 SL65 with decently low mileage for $65-70k. That was a $200k car when it rolled off the lot 6yrs ago. :td:
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Not quite like putting 215K into a new house, is it? :eek: Today I am pinchin' pennies to put together a nice street Busa, I lost twice that much when I sold my SL55AMG. Depreciation on those cars is a bit of a bitch.
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Dave, you wish has come true. The SL 65 AMG is equipped with a twin turbo V-12. 621 hp and 738 ft-lb of torque. But you might need to get a hammer out of your Craftsman toolbox and give your piggybank a whack since the car starts at $215k.
Dave&Wolfe,I was poking arounf on the MBusa website and could not believe the $215k sticker for the Big Daddy SL65!. When I had my last AMG back in 09 the mighty SL was $185k.
The sad part is,how absurdly fast the Benzo's(especially the AMG)depreciate. You can buy a fully loaded 09 SL65 with decently low mileage for $65-70k. That was a $200k car when it rolled off the lot 6yrs ago. :td:
Yes, they are great deals used. But I woukd personally not own either an MB or BMW out of warranty. An SL 65 has astronomical repair bills if something happens.
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Yes, they are great deals used. But I woukd personally not own either an MB or BMW out of warranty. An SL 65 has astronomical repair bills if something happens.
[/quote]
My son found that out after buying an S500 with just under 80K on it...
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Dave, you wish has come true. The SL 65 AMG is equipped with a twin turbo V-12. 621 hp and 738 ft-lb of torque. But you might need to get a hammer out of your Craftsman toolbox and give your piggybank a whack since the car starts at $215k.
Dave&Wolfe,I was poking arounf on the MBusa website and could not believe the $215k sticker for the Big Daddy SL65!. When I had my last AMG back in 09 the mighty SL was $185k.
The sad part is,how absurdly fast the Benzo's(especially the AMG)depreciate. You can buy a fully loaded 09 SL65 with decently low mileage for $65-70k. That was a $200k car when it rolled off the lot 6yrs ago. :td:
Yes, they are great deals used. But I woukd personally not own either an MB or BMW out of warranty. An SL 65 has astronomical repair bills if something happens.
A lot of wanna be Baller's will buy a 5-6yr old AMG for half the price it was when new&then flaunt it and make sure everyone knows its an AMG.
And then they are in utter disbelief when their brake job just cost $4500. Or if the Airmatic needs to be replaced(SL55's are notorious for this) and the repair bill is $7000. What these wanna be Ballers dont understand is that just because you bought a $190,000 used SL65 for $60k,youre still paying for parts and labor on a $190,000 car!
Like Wolfe said,Id NEVER buy any used AMG or BMW M car without a factory warranty still in place.
Sorry Uncle Dave,this thread was hijacked :hys:
-
Dave, you wish has come true. The SL 65 AMG is equipped with a twin turbo V-12. 621 hp and 738 ft-lb of torque. But you might need to get a hammer out of your Craftsman toolbox and give your piggybank a whack since the car starts at $215k.
Dave&Wolfe,I was poking arounf on the MBusa website and could not believe the $215k sticker for the Big Daddy SL65!. When I had my last AMG back in 09 the mighty SL was $185k.
The sad part is,how absurdly fast the Benzo's(especially the AMG)depreciate. You can buy a fully loaded 09 SL65 with decently low mileage for $65-70k. That was a $200k car when it rolled off the lot 6yrs ago. :td:
Yes, they are great deals used. But I woukd personally not own either an MB or BMW out of warranty. An SL 65 has astronomical repair bills if something happens.
A lot of wanna be Baller's will buy a 5-6yr old AMG for half the price it was when new&then flaunt it and make sure everyone knows its an AMG.
And then they are in utter disbelief when their brake job just cost $4500. Or if the Airmatic needs to be replaced(SL55's are notorious for this) and the repair bill is $7000. What these wanna be Ballers dont understand is that just because you bought a $190,000 used SL65 for $60k,youre still paying for parts and labor on a $190,000 car!
Like Wolfe said,Id NEVER buy any used AMG or BMW M car without a factory warranty still in place.
Sorry Uncle Dave,this thread was hijacked :hys:
Hijacked is the best thing that could possibly happen to an oil thread. :lol:
-
What the heck, you can only talk about oil for so long, then it becomes rather dull-as-it-can-be.
-
:lol:
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I normally do not participate in oil threads but since we selfishly and without regard hijacked it, I feel obligated to provide an answer.
Firstly I want to address the moronic statement that normally goes like this in oil threads: “I changed my oil with brand X and it works great for me”. So you thought there might have been a chance that it would not work and your engine would blow up??? To the contrary, one could buy oil at the local supermarket for 69 cents a quart and only change it every 7,000 miles, twice the recommended service interval for a Hayabusa and the engine would still last 100,000 miles without any problems. There will probably be more wear inside the engine versus one that was serviced with a high quality oil at proper intervals but even the cheapest oil sold would not damage a stock engine.
For modified engines, it is a different story. Normally aspirated engines typically have higher redlines and more extreme cam profiles. Film strength becomes important here and I would suggest looking at tests from independent labs. Just be careful with how recent those tests are since oils are often reformulated even though they are sold in exactly the same bottles and under the same names. What drives that is EPA requirements and the big oil companies also have an army of chemists and engineers with fancy PhD degrees that do nothing but try to improve the performance of their products.
Turbo motors have different requirements. Bring your Busa to a certain individual in Canada and you will now have 600+ RWHP versus 155 stock for less than one bet at the black jack table in one of the high roller rooms here in Vegas. With that amount of power, the loads on main and rod bearings are extreme, so diesel oils are often preferred in those motors since they are designed for that application. Oil for turbo motors must also be resilient of very high temperatures.
You mentioned “Less than Zero” which refers to the oils viscosity. The only reason to use that type of oil is to put up a number at the drag strip. Brock’s business model is to put a 135 pound jockey on a sport bike with stock engine internals and lay down an ET at the quarter mile that is absolutely impossible to achieve for you and I and 99.99 % of all sport bike owners. I would not under any circumstances use that type of oil.
Lastly, mineral or synthetic? There is no doubt that synthetics performs better in extreme warm and cold climates. They also typically have higher film strength than mineral oils which is important with lumpy camshafts. I know some guys that run seven seconds Pro Street type bikes at the strip and use mineral oil. But they change oil after each event and will at the most have two miles on it. Also, the crankshaft only rotates approximately 1,100 revolutions in a quarter mile pass and the camshafts half that. So the load is very short in duration compared to say a similar motor at Bonneville.
To summarize, mineral or synthetic is fine for stock motor applications. I would personally not use anything but synthetics for modified engines. Change it at least as often as recommended by the manufacturer for stock engines, more often if modified. Ask your engine builder what he recommends. I would use motorcycle specific oils for motorcycle engines (unless turbo). For what it is worth, I use Mobil 1 4T for my stock Busa and DRZ 400. I use Motul for my ZX-10 that has a flashed ECU with a 500 RPM higher redline than stock. My high performance NA Busa also get Motul. Always use OEM oil filters. That is based on my experience when working professionally as an engine builder before I started my military career and from threads on different forums where the owner felt the need to be creative and either use some fancy setup or a cheap auto part type filter that caused oil starvation and ruined engines.
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I normally do not participate in oil threads but since we selfishly and without regard hijacked it, I feel obligated to provide an answer.
Firstly I want to address the moronic statement that normally goes like this in oil threads: “I changed my oil with brand X and it works great for me”. So you thought there might have been a chance that it would not work and your engine would blow up??? To the contrary, one could buy oil at the local supermarket for 69 cents a quart and only change it every 7,000 miles, twice the recommended service interval for a Hayabusa and the engine would still last 100,000 miles without any problems. There will probably be more wear inside the engine versus one that was serviced with a high quality oil at proper intervals but even the cheapest oil sold would not damage a stock engine.
For modified engines, it is a different story. Normally aspirated engines typically have higher redlines and more extreme cam profiles. Film strength becomes important here and I would suggest looking at tests from independent labs. Just be careful with how recent those tests are since oils are often reformulated even though they are sold in exactly the same bottles and under the same names. What drives that is EPA requirements and the big oil companies also have an army of chemists and engineers with fancy PhD degrees that do nothing but try to improve the performance of their products.
Turbo motors have different requirements. Bring your Busa to a certain individual in Canada and you will now have 600+ RWHP versus 155 stock for less than one bet at the black jack table in one of the high roller rooms here in Vegas. With that amount of power, the loads on main and rod bearings are extreme, so diesel oils are often preferred in those motors since they are designed for that application. Oil for turbo motors must also be resilient of very high temperatures.
You mentioned “Less than Zero” which refers to the oils viscosity. The only reason to use that type of oil is to put up a number at the drag strip. Brock’s business model is to put a 135 pound jockey on a sport bike with stock engine internals and lay down an ET at the quarter mile that is absolutely impossible to achieve for you and I and 99.99 % of all sport bike owners. I would not under any circumstances use that type of oil.
Lastly, mineral or synthetic? There is no doubt that synthetics performs better in extreme warm and cold climates. They also typically have higher film strength than mineral oils which is important with lumpy camshafts. I know some guys that run seven seconds Pro Street type bikes at the strip and use mineral oil. But they change oil after each event and will at the most have two miles on it. Also, the crankshaft only rotates approximately 1,100 revolutions in a quarter mile pass and the camshafts half that. So the load is very short in duration compared to say a similar motor at Bonneville.
To summarize, mineral or synthetic is fine for stock motor applications. I would personally not use anything but synthetics for modified engines. Change it at least as often as recommended by the manufacturer for stock engines, more often if modified. Ask your engine builder what he recommends. I would use motorcycle specific oils for motorcycle engines (unless turbo). For what it is worth, I use Mobil 1 4T for my stock Busa and DRZ 400. I use Motul for my ZX-10 that has a flashed ECU with a 500 RPM higher redline than stock. My high performance NA Busa also get Motul. Always use OEM oil filters. That is based on my experience when working professionally as an engine builder before I started my military career and from threads on different forums where the owner felt the need to be creative and either use some fancy setup or a cheap auto part type filter that caused oil starvation and ruined engines.
:thumb:
I could not have said it any better.
I'd like to add that motorcycle specific oils have high shear additives that protect them from the severe shearing forces of a motorcycle transmission, as it also doubles as transmission fluid.
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A wise man once told me that if you refuse to benefit from another man's lifetime of knowledge, you are a fool's fool. That was a great post, thank you, Wolf.
Full synthetic, motorcycle specific...........Amsoil, Motul, etc. No "less than zero weight." If I read correctly between the lines, oil tech has surpassed engine
tech a long time ago for our purposes.
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Dave, you wish has come true. The SL 65 AMG is equipped with a twin turbo V-12. 621 hp and 738 ft-lb of torque. But you might need to get a hammer out of your Craftsman toolbox and give your piggybank a whack since the car starts at $215k.
Dave&Wolfe,I was poking arounf on the MBusa website and could not believe the $215k sticker for the Big Daddy SL65!. When I had my last AMG back in 09 the mighty SL was $185k.
The sad part is,how absurdly fast the Benzo's(especially the AMG)depreciate. You can buy a fully loaded 09 SL65 with decently low mileage for $65-70k. That was a $200k car when it rolled off the lot 6yrs ago. :td:
Yes, they are great deals used. But I woukd personally not own either an MB or BMW out of warranty. An SL 65 has astronomical repair bills if something happens.
A lot of wanna be Baller's will buy a 5-6yr old AMG for half the price it was when new&then flaunt it and make sure everyone knows its an AMG.
And then they are in utter disbelief when their brake job just cost $4500. Or if the Airmatic needs to be replaced(SL55's are notorious for this) and the repair bill is $7000. What these wanna be Ballers dont understand is that just because you bought a $190,000 used SL65 for $60k,youre still paying for parts and labor on a $190,000 car!
Like Wolfe said,Id NEVER buy any used AMG or BMW M car without a factory warranty still in place.
Sorry Uncle Dave,this thread was hijacked :hys:
Hijacked is the best thing that could possibly happen to an oil thread. :lol:
Ain't that the truth :lol:
-
Dave, you wish has come true. The SL 65 AMG is equipped with a twin turbo V-12. 621 hp and 738 ft-lb of torque. But you might need to get a hammer out of your Craftsman toolbox and give your piggybank a whack since the car starts at $215k.
Dave&Wolfe,I was poking arounf on the MBusa website and could not believe the $215k sticker for the Big Daddy SL65!. When I had my last AMG back in 09 the mighty SL was $185k.
The sad part is,how absurdly fast the Benzo's(especially the AMG)depreciate. You can buy a fully loaded 09 SL65 with decently low mileage for $65-70k. That was a $200k car when it rolled off the lot 6yrs ago. :td:
Yes, they are great deals used. But I woukd personally not own either an MB or BMW out of warranty. An SL 65 has astronomical repair bills if something happens.
A lot of wanna be Baller's will buy a 5-6yr old AMG for half the price it was when new&then flaunt it and make sure everyone knows its an AMG.
And then they are in utter disbelief when their brake job just cost $4500. Or if the Airmatic needs to be replaced(SL55's are notorious for this) and the repair bill is $7000. What these wanna be Ballers dont understand is that just because you bought a $190,000 used SL65 for $60k,youre still paying for parts and labor on a $190,000 car!
Like Wolfe said,Id NEVER buy any used AMG or BMW M car without a factory warranty still in place.
Sorry Uncle Dave,this thread was hijacked :hys:
Hijacked is the best thing that could possibly happen to an oil thread. :lol:
Ain't that the truth :lol:
I actually enjoyed reading about the cars members used to own. I agree 100% that a MB or BMW shouldn't be owned out of warranty. I used to have the privilege of calling customers and letting them know little details like; to get the doors on their 600SEL to close would cost $1500 + labor for the vacuum pump that pulled them down the last 1/2 inch... :eek: :hys: Suddenly the "good deal" they think they got on the car didn't seem so good. There is a reason these cars crash in value when out of warranty!
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Brad Penn 10w-40 Green for Mine. Changed at least once a season if not racing and usually every other weekend of drag racing.
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Dave, you wish has come true. The SL 65 AMG is equipped with a twin turbo V-12. 621 hp and 738 ft-lb of torque. But you might need to get a hammer out of your Craftsman toolbox and give your piggybank a whack since the car starts at $215k.
Dave&Wolfe,I was poking arounf on the MBusa website and could not believe the $215k sticker for the Big Daddy SL65!. When I had my last AMG back in 09 the mighty SL was $185k.
The sad part is,how absurdly fast the Benzo's(especially the AMG)depreciate. You can buy a fully loaded 09 SL65 with decently low mileage for $65-70k. That was a $200k car when it rolled off the lot 6yrs ago. :td:
Yes, they are great deals used. But I woukd personally not own either an MB or BMW out of warranty. An SL 65 has astronomical repair bills if something happens.
A lot of wanna be Baller's will buy a 5-6yr old AMG for half the price it was when new&then flaunt it and make sure everyone knows its an AMG.
And then they are in utter disbelief when their brake job just cost $4500. Or if the Airmatic needs to be replaced(SL55's are notorious for this) and the repair bill is $7000. What these wanna be Ballers dont understand is that just because you bought a $190,000 used SL65 for $60k,youre still paying for parts and labor on a $190,000 car!
Like Wolfe said,Id NEVER buy any used AMG or BMW M car without a factory warranty still in place.
Sorry Uncle Dave,this thread was hijacked :hys:
Hijacked is the best thing that could possibly happen to an oil thread. :lol:
Ain't that the truth :lol:
I actually enjoyed reading about the cars members used to own. I agree 100% that a MB or BMW shouldn't be owned out of warranty. I used to have the privilege of calling customers and letting them know little details like; to get the doors on their 600SEL to close would cost $1500 + labor for the vacuum pump that pulled them down the last 1/2 inch... :eek: :hys: Suddenly the "good deal" they think they got on the car didn't seem so good. There is a reason these cars crash in value when out of warranty!
Dave, you wish has come true. The SL 65 AMG is equipped with a twin turbo V-12. 621 hp and 738 ft-lb of torque. But you might need to get a hammer out of your Craftsman toolbox and give your piggybank a whack since the car starts at $215k.
Dave&Wolfe,I was poking arounf on the MBusa website and could not believe the $215k sticker for the Big Daddy SL65!. When I had my last AMG back in 09 the mighty SL was $185k.
The sad part is,how absurdly fast the Benzo's(especially the AMG)depreciate. You can buy a fully loaded 09 SL65 with decently low mileage for $65-70k. That was a $200k car when it rolled off the lot 6yrs ago. :td:
Yes, they are great deals used. But I woukd personally not own either an MB or BMW out of warranty. An SL 65 has astronomical repair bills if something happens.
A lot of wanna be Baller's will buy a 5-6yr old AMG for half the price it was when new&then flaunt it and make sure everyone knows its an AMG.
And then they are in utter disbelief when their brake job just cost $4500. Or if the Airmatic needs to be replaced(SL55's are notorious for this) and the repair bill is $7000. What these wanna be Ballers dont understand is that just because you bought a $190,000 used SL65 for $60k,youre still paying for parts and labor on a $190,000 car!
Like Wolfe said,Id NEVER buy any used AMG or BMW M car without a factory warranty still in place.
Sorry Uncle Dave,this thread was hijacked :hys:
Hijacked is the best thing that could possibly happen to an oil thread. :lol:
Ain't that the truth :lol:
I actually enjoyed reading about the cars members used to own. I agree 100% that a MB or BMW shouldn't be owned out of warranty. I used to have the privilege of calling customers and letting them know little details like; to get the doors on their 600SEL to close would cost $1500 + labor for the vacuum pump that pulled them down the last 1/2 inch... :eek: :hys: Suddenly the "good deal" they think they got on the car didn't seem so good. There is a reason these cars crash in value when out of warranty!
I agree that we all some cool cars, I never had a AMG or BMW, but I did have a 72 Chevelle in 73, 74, that ran mid 11s at the drags, and this was a real street car not a pro mod wannabe 3750lbs no nitrous all motor, and before getting on a soapbox screaming about warranty cause the car cost's $200.000.00 or whatever, think about the poor dealership mechanic's that have to work on that car for warranty labor time, the members on here that are techs with a major company and work in a dealership know exactly what I'm talking about, the rest of you do not,............but oil threads, come on, there has been no significant change with oil in 40 years, you must of course use the rec weight and a good quality oil, but that dead horse has already been made into dog food, now before everybody starts firing back about this or that oil, just ask yourself one thing, when you go to your favorite parts store and put your money down for your favorite oil recamended by everybody and there brother, how exactly do you know what is in that oil can, other than whats printed on the label ???, I geuss what I'm saying is gasoline is pumped through the same pipeline that go's into 8 or 10 different companys tanks, so who says there not doing the same with oil ???
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Dave, you wish has come true. The SL 65 AMG is equipped with a twin turbo V-12. 621 hp and 738 ft-lb of torque. But you might need to get a hammer out of your Craftsman toolbox and give your piggybank a whack since the car starts at $215k.
Dave&Wolfe,I was poking arounf on the MBusa website and could not believe the $215k sticker for the Big Daddy SL65!. When I had my last AMG back in 09 the mighty SL was $185k.
The sad part is,how absurdly fast the Benzo's(especially the AMG)depreciate. You can buy a fully loaded 09 SL65 with decently low mileage for $65-70k. That was a $200k car when it rolled off the lot 6yrs ago. :td:
Yes, they are great deals used. But I woukd personally not own either an MB or BMW out of warranty. An SL 65 has astronomical repair bills if something happens.
A lot of wanna be Baller's will buy a 5-6yr old AMG for half the price it was when new&then flaunt it and make sure everyone knows its an AMG.
And then they are in utter disbelief when their brake job just cost $4500. Or if the Airmatic needs to be replaced(SL55's are notorious for this) and the repair bill is $7000. What these wanna be Ballers dont understand is that just because you bought a $190,000 used SL65 for $60k,youre still paying for parts and labor on a $190,000 car!
Like Wolfe said,Id NEVER buy any used AMG or BMW M car without a factory warranty still in place.
Sorry Uncle Dave,this thread was hijacked :hys:
Hijacked is the best thing that could possibly happen to an oil thread. :lol:
Ain't that the truth :lol:
I actually enjoyed reading about the cars members used to own. I agree 100% that a MB or BMW shouldn't be owned out of warranty. I used to have the privilege of calling customers and letting them know little details like; to get the doors on their 600SEL to close would cost $1500 + labor for the vacuum pump that pulled them down the last 1/2 inch... :eek: :hys: Suddenly the "good deal" they think they got on the car didn't seem so good. There is a reason these cars crash in value when out of warranty!
I agree that we all some cool cars, I never had a AMG or BMW, but I did have a 72 Chevelle in 73, 74, that ran mid 11s at the drags, and this was a real street car not a pro mod wannabe 3750lbs no nitrous all motor, and before getting on a soapbox screaming about warranty cause the car cost's $200.000.00 or whatever, think about the poor dealership mechanic's that have to work on that car for warranty labor time, the members on here that are techs with a major company and work in a dealership know exactly what I'm talking about, the rest of you do not,............but oil threads, come on, there has been no significant change with oil in 40 years, you must of course use the rec weight and a good quality oil, but that dead horse has already been made into dog food, now before everybody starts firing back about this or that oil, just ask yourself one thing, when you go to your favorite parts store and put your money down for your favorite oil recamended by everybody and there brother, how exactly do you know what is in that oil can, other than whats printed on the label ???, I geuss what I'm saying is gasoline is pumped through the same pipeline that go's into 8 or 10 different companys tanks, so who says there not doing the same with oil ???
[/quote]
I know exactly what you are talking about. I wasn't at a dealer but one of the better independents around. I spent 10 years beating up my body to beat flat rate and make a decent living before I saw the light. The worst is that warranty time is even less! I was barely 30 and had carpel tunnel in one hand, and my back and shoulders contently hurt. Not to mention all the money that was getting spent on the snapon truck. LOL
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Dave, you wish has come true. The SL 65 AMG is equipped with a twin turbo V-12. 621 hp and 738 ft-lb of torque. But you might need to get a hammer out of your Craftsman toolbox and give your piggybank a whack since the car starts at $215k.
Dave&Wolfe,I was poking arounf on the MBusa website and could not believe the $215k sticker for the Big Daddy SL65!. When I had my last AMG back in 09 the mighty SL was $185k.
The sad part is,how absurdly fast the Benzo's(especially the AMG)depreciate. You can buy a fully loaded 09 SL65 with decently low mileage for $65-70k. That was a $200k car when it rolled off the lot 6yrs ago. :td:
Yes, they are great deals used. But I woukd personally not own either an MB or BMW out of warranty. An SL 65 has astronomical repair bills if something happens.
A lot of wanna be Baller's will buy a 5-6yr old AMG for half the price it was when new&then flaunt it and make sure everyone knows its an AMG.
And then they are in utter disbelief when their brake job just cost $4500. Or if the Airmatic needs to be replaced(SL55's are notorious for this) and the repair bill is $7000. What these wanna be Ballers dont understand is that just because you bought a $190,000 used SL65 for $60k,youre still paying for parts and labor on a $190,000 car!
Like Wolfe said,Id NEVER buy any used AMG or BMW M car without a factory warranty still in place.
Sorry Uncle Dave,this thread was hijacked :hys:
Hijacked is the best thing that could possibly happen to an oil thread. :lol:
Ain't that the truth :lol:
I actually enjoyed reading about the cars members used to own. I agree 100% that a MB or BMW shouldn't be owned out of warranty. I used to have the privilege of calling customers and letting them know little details like; to get the doors on their 600SEL to close would cost $1500 + labor for the vacuum pump that pulled them down the last 1/2 inch... :eek: :hys: Suddenly the "good deal" they think they got on the car didn't seem so good. There is a reason these cars crash in value when out of warranty!
I agree that we all some cool cars, I never had a AMG or BMW, but I did have a 72 Chevelle in 73, 74, that ran mid 11s at the drags, and this was a real street car not a pro mod wannabe 3750lbs no nitrous all motor, and before getting on a soapbox screaming about warranty cause the car cost's $200.000.00 or whatever, think about the poor dealership mechanic's that have to work on that car for warranty labor time, the members on here that are techs with a major company and work in a dealership know exactly what I'm talking about, the rest of you do not,............but oil threads, come on, there has been no significant change with oil in 40 years, you must of course use the rec weight and a good quality oil, but that dead horse has already been made into dog food, now before everybody starts firing back about this or that oil, just ask yourself one thing, when you go to your favorite parts store and put your money down for your favorite oil recamended by everybody and there brother, how exactly do you know what is in that oil can, other than whats printed on the label ???, I geuss what I'm saying is gasoline is pumped through the same pipeline that go's into 8 or 10 different companys tanks, so who says there not doing the same with oil ???
I know exactly what you are talking about. I wasn't at a dealer but one of the better independents around. I spent 10 years beating up my body to beat flat rate and make a decent living before I saw the light. The worst is that warranty time is even less! I was barely 30 and had carpel tunnel in one hand, and my back and shoulders contently hurt. Not to mention all the money that was getting spent on the snapon truck. LOL
[/quote]Its more like Snap on, Matco, Mac, Cornwell, and I wish 10 years is all I pissed away, I'l be 61 in June, been doing it since old enough to hold a wrench, whats funny is for a lot of years it was not bad, made some good money, pissed away most of it on race cars, had a ball, but now being older at times I think maybe I should has invested a little differently, ..........and LOL my local Pep Boys is running a killer deal on 15w-50 mobil one 5qts with filter for $26 or $27 so I guess the Busa and Harley get mobil 1 next oil change
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Stopped by Roger's (my old boss at Roger Marion Automotive) last week and they had a 2004 SL55 AMG like my old 2005. 5.5 litre Supercharged.
Had 36K on it and the guy needed a new idler pulley. Just the pulley alone was 472 bucks. On an American car Roger told me it would be about 35 bucks. That tells the whole tale. In a nutshell.
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Has anyone ever heard of an oil related engine failure when the oil wasn't dirty and the filter wasn't clogged? Ever?
Heck yeah! In my own experience with my turbo-Busa powered dragster.
I always ran Mobil 1 in my dragster and kept blowing up motors even though the oil pressure gauge was happy. Then I read an article in an Australian magazine that compared 17 different oils using the oil industry standard ball bearing test. To make a long story short, Mobil 1 finished dead last in film strength. I forget what was first but Royal Purple finished second and third with a film strength that was 82 times higher than Mobil 1 and since it was available locally I thought I would give it a try.
The year before I switched, the motor suffered from catastrophic spontaneous crankcase ventilation five times. The last year I had the dragster it always had Royal Purple in the pan and I made more passes that year than the previous five combined.
Car and driver weighed 990 lbs and I was running at least 24 lbs of boost the year of five blow ups. The Royal Purple year had no blowups at higher boost levels, many more passes and perfect rod/main bearings at the end of the year.
Buck
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My understanding of Mobil 1 is that it is not and has not been the same product that was produced upon its' introduction. It is not even a true synthetic any more. I have never heard a bad word about Royal Purple other than its' price. I have used and abused Amsoil Motorcycle Specific 10W40 in my earlier Busas (two of which were turbos) with no apparent negative results.........Motul motorcycle specific 10w-40 is supposed to be excellent also.
Alisyn may have some good oils, but I have not had personal experience with them yet.
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Has anyone ever heard of an oil related engine failure when the oil wasn't dirty and the filter wasn't clogged? Ever?
Heck yeah! In my own experience with my turbo-Busa powered dragster.
I always ran Mobil 1 in my dragster and kept blowing up motors even though the oil pressure gauge was happy. Then I read an article in an Australian magazine that compared 17 different oils using the oil industry standard ball bearing test. To make a long story short, Mobil 1 finished dead last in film strength. I forget what was first but Royal Purple finished second and third with a film strength that was 82 times higher than Mobil 1 and since it was available locally I thought I would give it a try.
The year before I switched, the motor suffered from catastrophic spontaneous crankcase ventilation five times. The last year I had the dragster it always had Royal Purple in the pan and I made more passes that year than the previous five combined.
Car and driver weighed 990 lbs and I was running at least 24 lbs of boost the year of five blow ups. The Royal Purple year had no blowups at higher boost levels, many more passes and perfect rod/main bearings at the end of the year.
Buck
OH MY GOD HE'S ALIVE!!!
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Has anyone ever heard of an oil related engine failure when the oil wasn't dirty and the filter wasn't clogged? Ever?
Heck yeah! In my own experience with my turbo-Busa powered dragster.
I always ran Mobil 1 in my dragster and kept blowing up motors even though the oil pressure gauge was happy. Then I read an article in an Australian magazine that compared 17 different oils using the oil industry standard ball bearing test. To make a long story short, Mobil 1 finished dead last in film strength. I forget what was first but Royal Purple finished second and third with a film strength that was 82 times higher than Mobil 1 and since it was available locally I thought I would give it a try.
The year before I switched, the motor suffered from catastrophic spontaneous crankcase ventilation five times. The last year I had the dragster it always had Royal Purple in the pan and I made more passes that year than the previous five combined.
Car and driver weighed 990 lbs and I was running at least 24 lbs of boost the year of five blow ups. The Royal Purple year had no blowups at higher boost levels, many more passes and perfect rod/main bearings at the end of the year.
Buck
No offense but to me,it sounds like you may need a new engine builder.
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No offense taken. But, the engine builder wasn't the problem. The oil was.
I believed the Mobil 1 hype and got bitten by its mediocrity. The data doesn't lie about film strength of Mobil 1 vs Royal Purple. Even my kids' Jr dragster showed similar benefits from changing over to RP.
Same engine builder, btw.
Buck
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Has anyone ever heard of an oil related engine failure when the oil wasn't dirty and the filter wasn't clogged? Ever?
Heck yeah! In my own experience with my turbo-Busa powered dragster.
[....]
Buck
OH MY GOD HE'S ALIVE!!!
Yeah, once in a while I find the post button. Heard you wanted to sell your E85 rocket. Is that so?
Buck
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Has anyone ever heard of an oil related engine failure when the oil wasn't dirty and the filter wasn't clogged? Ever?
Heck yeah! In my own experience with my turbo-Busa powered dragster.
I always ran Mobil 1 in my dragster and kept blowing up motors even though the oil pressure gauge was happy. Then I read an article in an Australian magazine that compared 17 different oils using the oil industry standard ball bearing test. To make a long story short, Mobil 1 finished dead last in film strength. I forget what was first but Royal Purple finished second and third with a film strength that was 82 times higher than Mobil 1 and since it was available locally I thought I would give it a try.
The year before I switched, the motor suffered from catastrophic spontaneous crankcase ventilation five times. The last year I had the dragster it always had Royal Purple in the pan and I made more passes that year than the previous five combined.
Car and driver weighed 990 lbs and I was running at least 24 lbs of boost the year of five blow ups. The Royal Purple year had no blowups at higher boost levels, many more passes and perfect rod/main bearings at the end of the year.
Buck
Kinda opposite of the results I had with the over priced Royal Purple junk. In the differentials on my Exploder any temp under 20°F would cause it to foam and come out the vents, in the Busa it turned black at 2000 miles (not dark brown from contamination black and smelled burnt) in the KLR it turned black and the clutch hated it. Now I run Mobile 1 in the bikes and whatever synthetic is on sale in the cars. Clutches work good on the bikes now and the diffs don't foam up on the Sploder anymore.
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Has anyone ever heard of an oil related engine failure when the oil wasn't dirty and the filter wasn't clogged? Ever?
Heck yeah! In my own experience with my turbo-Busa powered dragster.
I always ran Mobil 1 in my dragster and kept blowing up motors even though the oil pressure gauge was happy. Then I read an article in an Australian magazine that compared 17 different oils using the oil industry standard ball bearing test. To make a long story short, Mobil 1 finished dead last in film strength. I forget what was first but Royal Purple finished second and third with a film strength that was 82 times higher than Mobil 1 and since it was available locally I thought I would give it a try.
The year before I switched, the motor suffered from catastrophic spontaneous crankcase ventilation five times. The last year I had the dragster it always had Royal Purple in the pan and I made more passes that year than the previous five combined.
Car and driver weighed 990 lbs and I was running at least 24 lbs of boost the year of five blow ups. The Royal Purple year had no blowups at higher boost levels, many more passes and perfect rod/main bearings at the end of the year.
Buck
Kinda opposite of the results I had with the over priced Royal Purple junk. In the differentials on my Exploder any temp under 20°F would cause it to foam and come out the vents, in the Busa it turned black at 2000 miles (not dark brown from contamination black and smelled burnt) in the KLR it turned black and the clutch hated it. Now I run Mobile 1 in the bikes and whatever synthetic is on sale in the cars. Clutches work good on the bikes now and the diffs don't foam up on the Sploder anymore.
Thinking back I was having a little trouble with my clutch staying locked up down track with RP that I hadn't noticed with Mobil 1 but then most of my focus was on what to do to keep the bearings happy and the rods inside. Finally used a pancake air cylinder mounted to the clutch cover and tied to the turbo to help lock the clutch. Looked Frankensteinish but it worked.
Never had the black, burnt or foam problem.
Buck
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Amsoil 10W40 Motorcycle Specific full synthetic or Motul 10W40 Motorcycle Specific full synthetic.
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3 in 1, seriously...full synth of course! :bike:
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3 in 1, seriously...full synth of course! :bike:
Sinclair - straight 40 wt or Wolfs Head straight 50 wt.
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I experimented with so many oils in the past I forgot about most of them, now the race car did need a heavyer weight oil mostly 50w racing oil, brand primarily Valvoline, but Pennzoil also worked fine and with all the motorcycles over the years, I normaly used whatever oil was on hand, except the OLD Harleys they needed 70 weight cause they leaked so much, :lol: but all the modern stuff I used reg 10-40 or 20-50, for me the extra money spent on the latest/greatest reg or synthetic was a giant waste of money, also I never ever had a oil related eng problem, ................................oh one other thing these oil threads are like the worst gum on your shoe ever :lol:
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Yeah, once in a while I find the post button. Heard you wanted to sell your E85 rocket. Is that so?
Buck
I'm a semi-proud owner of a 2012 CTS-V Coupe now...the bike isn't getting the attention i'd like to give it and i think my fastest days might be a bit behind me...
The thought has crossed my mind. Given the choice at this very moment...i'd keep the car over the bike...
460hp was fun for all of 2 pulls before the fear of god took hold. My next busa will be much lower speed & maintenance. Think Pipe/PC & Done.
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Yeah, once in a while I find the post button. Heard you wanted to sell your E85 rocket. Is that so?
Buck
I'm a semi-proud owner of a 2012 CTS-V Coupe now...the bike isn't getting the attention i'd like to give it and i think my fastest days might be a bit behind me...
The thought has crossed my mind. Given the choice at this very moment...i'd keep the car over the bike...
460hp was fun for all of 2 pulls before the fear of god took hold. My next busa will be much lower speed & maintenance. Think Pipe/PC & Done.
Not to veer off the subject of this important thread but.....it's an oil thread so what the hell. I had (and still have) similar feelings after buying a C6 Corvette roadster a couple years back. I like a nice day ride on the Busa or the CBX but when thinking of my next tour, I'm considering taking the Vette....again. I took it last year on a 4,000 eight state run...just because. Kind of a similar experience with the top down in every state, Grand Canyon, Pikes Peak, Glacier NP, Lolo Pass, OR and CA coast hiway...was spectacular! And, very very much kinder to my body. I've done the same many times on my bikes but now that I'm getting older I may curtail my long bike trips and take the car.