SuzukiHayabusa.org
GENERAL => MAXIMUM OVERDRIVE => Topic started by: Frank06 on July 19, 2016, 12:05:51 PM
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Has anyone ever run back-to-back with these two windscreens? I'm using a double-bubble and ran a 198.8 at Loring on my electric conversion. I'm looking at everything for that last 1.5 mph! I can get real low on the bike because I don't have a conventional gas tank in the way. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated!
Frank
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Stock.
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I've tried the stock vs double bubble on my ZX12 and ZX14 both and each time the oem screens gave me the best mph.
Might depend on the size of the rider though.
For 1.5mph I'd put in some MR12...... ;-)
Dan
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If your getting down real low can you trim the std screen ?
post a pic of the bike preferably with you on it in race position,
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Third hand information is always the best advice but here goes anyway.....
A few years ago Al Lamb told me they did wind tunnel tests on various screens and found stock always worked the best.
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Here's the bike in the driveway, I don't have anything with me on it:
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a11/biker_ev/E-Busa%20Loring%20Summer%202016%20001_zpskkmmyyeu.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/biker_ev/media/E-Busa%20Loring%20Summer%202016%20001_zpskkmmyyeu.jpg.html)
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Stock !
Can't see worth a flip,
but hey, you only need 20 seconds........
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Here's the bike in the driveway, I don't have anything with me on it:
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a11/biker_ev/E-Busa%20Loring%20Summer%202016%20001_zpskkmmyyeu.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/biker_ev/media/E-Busa%20Loring%20Summer%202016%20001_zpskkmmyyeu.jpg.html)
Use the stock screen to race,
and the black screen for display.......
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Thanks Scott - it sure sounds like consensus to me! I've ridden a gas 'Busa on the street since '03 with this screen and never even thought to bring the OEM unit with me.
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For 1.5mph I'd put in some MR12...... ;-)
Dan
We're so close to the border up there I was thinking of slipping over and charging with Canadian electrons. I think they're 25% bigger, eh? ;)
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1.5 mph-- stock screen, up the psi in tires, push brake pads away from discs, loose the rear grab bar, tape every seam up, point your toes in and lift your butt up to get air to flow over your tail.Tape your gloves and boots as well. We did it for Ronnie Staytie and Andy Sills, worked for both of them.
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Good advice, thanks. I did tape my boots on the last run but next time out will do the other items for sure. :thumb:
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What is everyone's opinion on the seat shown in the pic? I like it because it gets me lower, but the stock seat will keep your back a big higher. I don't know if that would be better or not. Opinions or experience appreciated... :tu:
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I tape every seam and every fastener hole. I've taped over the ram air ducts also because it's a turbo.
I'm always experimenting with body position too. Slide your hind end up on the step of your seat. You might want to even raise your butt up higher and be supporting yourself on the pegs without actually sitting. I've done that also.
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I tape every seam and every fastener hole. I've taped over the ram air ducts also because it's a turbo.
I'm always experimenting with body position too. Slide your hind end up on the step of your seat. You might want to even raise your but up higher and be supporting yourself on the pegs without actually sitting. I've done that also.
How much difference does the front fender make ?
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We're so close to the border up there I was thinking of slipping over and charging with Canadian electrons. I think they're 25% bigger, eh? ;)
How long does it run with the electrons on board ?
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The cells I have in it now are "power" cells i.e. really made for drag racing. They hold enough energy for a (theoretical) 40 miles at reasonable speeds but 25 miles is about all I go. In another configuration a couple of years ago I had 100+ miles range but didn't like the battery weight. 90% of my riding is into town to go to the hardware store or someplace.
This pack can actually make 500kW and I designed it for eventual retrofit into a drag race vehicle of some sort. The motor currently in the bike is AC/Permanent Magnet (actual output around 150kW).
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500kw would be nice on the mile :D
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I would put the stock seat on and even pad it to raise your butt, if you can still reach the ground
like SEJ i ride jockey style with butt in the air a little ,
on the salt we get more time to experiment and find the sweet spot
Single ride that taught me the most about body position was when Garry Peterson (Gazza414) let me ride his mildly modified busa in 04 , once at speed every change made a difference in rpm , elbows in , butt up, toes in , head and back at the sweet spot
where you can just feel the wind but your not fighting it
And i agree with all Jims comments and will add handlebar , you can shorten them and get your hands within the air bubble of the bodywork , brake and clutch can mount on the other side of the fork clamp if you push the bar through
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500kw would be nice on the mile :D
Do ya think?! It'd be nice on anything! The problem is that while brushed motors can handle that kind of power, they heat up rapidly. OK for a 9-second 1/4-mile pass but very risky on something like a mile run. That's why it's not uncommon to see an industrial motor originally rated at something like 20 hp (continuous) be hot-rodded a bit and capable of handling 500 hp in a drag race.
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I would put the stock seat on and even pad it to raise your butt, if you can still reach the ground
like SEJ i ride jockey style with butt in the air a little ,
on the salt we get more time to experiment and find the sweet spot
Single ride that taught me the most about body position was when Garry Peterson (Gazza414) let me ride his mildly modified busa in 04 , once at speed every change made a difference in rpm , elbows in , butt up, toes in , head and back at the sweet spot
where you can just feel the wind but your not fighting it
And i agree with all Jims comments and will add handlebar , you can shorten them and get your hands within the air bubble of the bodywork , brake and clutch can mount on the other side of the fork clamp if you push the bar through
This is a really good suggestion but I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "push the bar through"? I understand the principle of what you're saying though. Do you have a picture by any chance?
BTW, I really appreciate all your input guys!
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This is our 750 not busa but you will get the idea
ignor the overheated bits, some stuff i have not replaced yet
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/maj750/750%20and%201k%20stuff/IMG_1285_zpsnirevt0c.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/maj750/media/750%20and%201k%20stuff/IMG_1285_zpsnirevt0c.jpg.html)
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:tu:
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You need a big brushless motor!!
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I implemented most of the suggestions you folks made and had a great weekend at the Loring Timing Association's "Harvest Event". I upped my record several times, here's the final timeslip:
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a11/biker_ev/Harvest%20Event%20Record%20Timeslip-small_zpscsfv8jho.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/biker_ev/media/Harvest%20Event%20Record%20Timeslip-small_zpscsfv8jho.jpg.html)
To the best of my knowledge, this is the first time a street-legal EV with stock bodywork has exceeded 200 mph in the standing start mile. Thanks for everyone's help!
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Way to go!!
A big congratulations to you! :clp: :beechug:
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:tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: