SuzukiHayabusa.org
TECHNICAL => ALL MOTOR TALK => Topic started by: Thomas on October 09, 2017, 07:14:01 AM
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Will APE head studs / nuts do?
I'm going to drop head studs / new head gasket and a spacer for now for low boost, and later (in a year or so) rebuild the engine to get about 400-450whp.
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That's what I run in my nitrous bike (and my HC all motor bike) and haven't had any issues. The nitrous bike is in that 400-450 range.
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They will do. If you plan on pushing further you may want to look at the 1/2" studs
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Any machining needed? I see that ARP's have few first threads cut to keep block and cylinder walls from deforming under load
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The oem size are direct fit the 1/2" require machining
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I am trying an 11mm stud next week, same pitch as the 10mm so i hope to just chase the thread with the new size , and simplify the upgrade and end up with the correct stretch at ~72ft lbs
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Are you using custom studs or are you using studs for some other engine (maybe with minor mods)?
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The oem size are direct fit the 1/2" require machining
That's clear. I was wondering if there a point of doing something like you see on the attached picture to keep block from deforming too much (few threads are cut on the right side of the studs).
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That is so the stud can bottom out into the case.
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Are you using custom studs or are you using studs for some other engine (maybe with minor mods)?
Upgrade studs for EJ20 and EJ25 Subaru , right length and pitch
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Awesome info. Thanks for sharing! Keep us posted. :thumb:
BTW it's still not 100% clear to me. Should I machine the ends of APE studs? It's basically a 15 min job and I have free access to a lathe.
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I have ape 10mm in one engine and 1/2" bolts in another. 10mm gave no issues with 14-20 lbs . I'm putting 30 lbs to my 1/2" with no issues. I'm going to try 10mm arps this time.