SuzukiHayabusa.org
TECHNICAL => NITROUS => Topic started by: h22AccordTurbo on January 30, 2006, 10:16:58 AM
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Hey guys im looking for some info on what is exactly needed to build your own nitrous kit. Right now Im stuck between doing either a stainless braided hose setup.. or the plastic line. I was really kind of hopeing to do it with the plastic line, but I havent been able to come up with all the parts needed.
Can someone make up a good list of what is all needed and required? Im more than confident I can build my own system.. I just want to do it all at once and not find myself missing any small parts. Thanks
-Mark
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Hi,
check this out --> http://www.diy-nitrous.fsnet.co.uk/
Watch out with the plastic lines with the pressure.
Here is a link where one of the best nitrous systems and they use special plastic lines -> http://www.racetested.com/
Remind, pistons cost more then nitrous systems, look very carefull what you do and use!
I was also planned to make on my on but now thinking to buy one.
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Kits are pretty easy to do your self. You pay for the convience with the other kits. In a nut shell.. you have your bottle, solenoid, line, nossle, jets, and your few misc fittings. I can easily do a stainless set up.. i was just looking for insite on the plastic lines.
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plastic lines are fine,but can only be used from the exit port(low pressure) on the solinoid,if the solinoid isn't mounted to the bottle,you will need a high pressure (braided line) from the bottle to the solinoid
mps has line kits http://www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/no01.asp
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I don't like the plastic line.
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the plastic line will give you more punch than the braded line but you can only use it from solinoid to the fogger
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Plastic line WILL melt. :bah:(really great for cooling off the outside of the motor)
Go steel braided line.
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Ive actually had great luck with the poly lines..I have condut over them so heat won't mess them up..
you will need>
1 Nitrous solenoid(not a fuel solenoid less psi on those) APROX $100 if you buy a Purge kit which you also need the adapter out if that also for the guage I prefer NX But NOS good too..
Liquid filled NX PSI Guage I have mine coming right off the botle with the before mentioned adapter that comes in the Purge kit
braided feed line depending on where You put the solenoid 2-3 feet..I mount them right near the rear brake resvoir
2 DRY nozzles and the nuts funnel jets,ferrels ect 2-#24 jets =aprox 40HP 2 #30jets 60hp ect
1 T to come out of the solenoid for the 2 braided or poly lines
NOS brand Bottle try to get a 2 lber!! :shock: :D bootleg or NX valves break easily!!**and if your running it upsidedown Take the valve off and make sure the siphon tube is out!!**Verifiy this mod yourself..Dont take anyones word on this thats it already out..
2 way on/on togle to turn your Starter button into the Nitrous button(tap right under the seat into the sarter relay wire Green wire yellow tracer)and go to the center pole of the 2 way toggle,one back to the solenoid other back to starter relay
Some kind of bracket to hold the Bottle(if you bike is long you could Mount it in front of the tire)if not a 2lb will fit into the trunk
Thats it ...not much to it ..I built Mine for around $200..taste great less filling!!!
I got some stuff at a local Car shop and some off ebaY..the bottle and the solenoid cost the most..get new on both better off ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v194/E-RACER/289a37c6.jpg)
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Alright guys... after much work.. But worth it IMO I designed/built my own kit. Most of the time was spent finding the cheapest places for the parts. Heres a list of how much i spent and where I purchased them from.
MPS Racing. www.mpsracing.com
MPS Bottle Mount 35.00 # 1-0135
1/8" NPT - 3/16" tube - complete $4.01 # 3-16433nos (used to attach plastic line to the solenoid)
MPS Dry Nitrous Dual Nozzle Kit $30.00 #1-0350 (comes with nozzle,fittings, and tube to run from the solenoid to nozzle)
total spent. $69.01 after shipping $79.00
Jegs Racing. www.jegs.com
NOS brand 2lb Bottle # 741-14710 129.99
Total spent $129.99 after shipping 139.98
Dyno Tune Nitrous www.dynotunenitrous.com
Nitrous Oxide Solenoid 175hp - $59.00 # 200
1/8" to 4AN Swivel Fitting $ 12.95 #510
jets 3.99
total spent $75.94 after shipping 87.94
Grand total 306.92
this is with all very good quality parts. I saved at least 80.00 from getting everything for myself. This is a great idea for those who are great with wrenches.
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Kool..don't forget the NX guage aprox $35
:D
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I got some parts in. Wow everything is looking awesome. DynoTune Nitrous has some sweet solenoids.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/accordturbo/7922ab98.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/accordturbo/f1e5784c.jpg)
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Looks good
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after you get it done and tested...if you want to throw one together for me i will pay ya. let me know how it works out.
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after you get it done and tested...if you want to throw one together for me i will pay ya. let me know how it works out.
Hey just send me a PM. No need to pay me!
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cool bud...keep me posted and i will send ya money for the parts...and i will work on the gauges tonight unless you have a new pic you wanna use.
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I'm also in the middle of a DIY nitrous project. Chevelle was one of the first people I contacted about the Dyno Tune nitrous kits. He was helpful and had some good pointers for me. I'm watching your thread to see how you make out. I'm interested in your thoughts and results.
Here's the parts I've acumulated for my DIY:
Dyno Tune basic nitrous kit
Dyno Tune purge kit
MSD digital window switch
Tiger Racing under the hump bottle mount
NOS 2lb nitrous bottle
Wildurn Motorsports WOT switch
PMR billet rocker switch assembly
Nitrous Express Gauge
Misc. braided lines, wiring, relays, etc.
I already have a PCIIIr, so with a little re-mapping, that should take care of my extra fuel needs at WOT.
BTW, What jet size are you going with? #28, #34, or #36?
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I'm also in the middle of a DIY nitrous project. Chevelle was one of the first people I contacted about the Dyno Tune nitrous kits. He was helpful and had some good pointers for me. I'm watching your thread to see how you make out. I'm interested in your thoughts and results.
Here's the parts I've acumulated for my DIY:
Dyno Tune basic nitrous kit
Dyno Tune purge kit
MSD digital window switch
Tiger Racing under the hump bottle mount
NOS 2lb nitrous bottle
Wildurn Motorsports WOT switch
PMR billet rocker switch assembly
Nitrous Express Gauge
Misc. braided lines, wiring, relays, etc.
I already have a PCIIIr, so with a little re-mapping, that should take care of my extra fuel needs at WOT.
BTW, What jet size are you going with? #28, #34, or #36?
hey that sounds great! I to may go with a window switch.. Its going to be hard to keep track of my nitrous, air shifter and rpms at once.
Im going with a 36 and 38. Which I believe is a 40 and 50 shot. Can someone confirm this?? DynoTune has lots of jets at the best prices. I can stress enough how nice there kits are. IMO I would take Dynotune's products over NOS any day.
Dont forget guys you may need to buy a TAP. The nossle requires you to tap the air box. I had one laying around from a previous nitrous kit I had in one of my cars.
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/accordturbo/DSCF0160.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/accordturbo/DSCF0162.jpg)
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Please note -
I have NO nitrous experience but I was wondering if it would make sense to use the billet velocity stacks for the nitrous setup. Obviously using the shorter better flowing billet velocity stacks in the air box would help by itself but I'm really wondering about mounting the nozzles directly to the billet stacks.
I'm interested in hearing your opinions.
Thanks
Chet
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Your going to have a hard time mounting that bottle in the trunk with the solenoid attached to it..just mount it in the tail near the rear brake mastercylinder reservoir..
CHET,Yes those would help and Ive seen a wet kit mounted right into the stacks,and You could do a dry that way also..that would be kool and hit hard!!
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biggest advantage to the billet stacks is they are the same length. that is the main purpose of running all shorts. the taller middle two stacks will rob a little nos from the shorter outside ones.
This makes for an interesting discussion. In theory, I'd have to agree. I'm thinking the same thing. Short stacks, same length, equal distributiion. But nitrous aside, is the air flow really that different between the stacks, shorts/longs? Wouldn't air box design somehow play into this? Would or do any of the cylinders run a bit leaner/richer due to stack length from the factory? I understand Suzuki did the short/long combo to aid in low speed drivability/throttle response. I'm not an engineer but the answers do interest me.
BTW, Is it time to do the small box mod at this point (nitrous install) ? Short stacks too? Or, leave it the **** alone?
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A little info about velocity stacks and the Hayabusa seems appropriate.
Suzuki used short and long rubber velocity stacks to get a wide torque band. The stock Busa has different fuel maps for the inner cylinders (OEM long stack) and outer (OEM short stack) - the inner cylinders have less fuel at high rpm.
The stock OEM short stacks have a 48mm ID and do not match the TB ID (50mm).
The billet velocity stacks we use have a 50mm ID to match the TB and a larger progessive flare to 79.5mm. The billet stacks flow a lot more air (proven on the flow bench) than the stock short stacks.
The stock Hayabusa computer uses throttle position and rpm at high load to determine injector time. This means that if flow is improved, it will not know to add more fuel. The billet velocity stacks work best with more fuel at high rpm.
Chet
PS - Ed give me a call if you want to try a set out on your bike.
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Ok, well, I guess that's why I asked the question. I didn't know that the fuel maps were different between cylinders. Makes more sense now. Would changing the stacks make a worthwhile difference with this small (40-50hp) dry system? Or would I just be pullin my thing thing?
And back to the small box mod. Is it worth it at this point? I like HP but I don't want low end throttle response to suffer. Ideas, opinions? Thanks.
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Another reason for the 2 center stacks being taller is 2 center cylinders run hotter and are mapped a bit richer . In a way it works out they get cooler air quicker than 2 outside stacks.
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Your going to have a hard time mounting that bottle in the trunk with the solenoid attached to it..just mount it in the tail near the rear brake mastercylinder reservoir..
CHET,Yes those would help and Ive seen a wet kit mounted right into the stacks,and You could do a dry that way also..that would be kool and hit hard!!
Yo E, Im actually mounting it right off the passenger peg.
This is going to be nice! :lol:
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Your going to have a hard time mounting that bottle in the trunk with the solenoid attached to it..just mount it in the tail near the rear brake mastercylinder reservoir..
CHET,Yes those would help and Ive seen a wet kit mounted right into the stacks,and You could do a dry that way also..that would be kool and hit hard!!
Yo E, Im actually mounting it right off the passenger peg.
This is going to be nice! :lol:
careful, a full 2lb bottle is alot of weight on that hanger. strip would be ok but a bumpy road could cause it to crack
IT SHOULD BE OK. ITS STILL GOING TO HAVE THE RUBBER TO SOAK UP THE VIBRATIONS
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Doesn't it hit harder with the solenoid closer to the nozzle ?
I thought that's how you flow more liquid ?
Unless you want it to hit soft ?
Team WandL Racing.
Red, *<(:{)-
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Doesn't it hit harder with the solenoid closer to the nozzle ?
I thought that's how you flow more liquid ?
Unless you want it to hit soft ?
Team WandL Racing.
Red, *<(:{)-
The further the solenoid is from the nozzle the lower the line pressure = lower hit, you might want to consider mounting the nozzles into the two ram air tubes that the airbox slip over that way the Nos passes by the O2 sensor and it should fatten up your fuel load too....
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Burt's got quite the efficient looking setup here:
(http://www.1320straightliners.com/photos/Plate%20ST-5.jpg)
(http://www.1320straightliners.com/photos/Plate%20ST-3.jpg)
(http://www.1320straightliners.com/photos/Plate%20ST-4.jpg)
(http://www.1320straightliners.com/photos/Plate%20ST-2.jpg)
30 min bolt on wet kit :thumb:
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And back to the small box mod. Is it worth it at this point? I like HP but I don't want low end throttle response to suffer. Ideas, opinions? Thanks.
sorry if i missed the answer somewhere, but ive seen this question asked numerous times and it always gets swept under the carpet. is there any evidence that removing the flapper valve has a positive effect on anything. i just cant see where it would be helpful. has anyone done before and after dyno testing?