SuzukiHayabusa.org
TECHNICAL => F.A.Q => Topic started by: 396 on November 14, 2002, 08:38:00 PM
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This has happend to me twice in the last 3 months. First time on a 3 hour ride and when I got into traffic, stop and go the bike just stalled. would not restart. waited about 15 minutes and then the bike starts. The bike ran fine, but I did not feel safe until I found out something. Thought maybe something with the fuel pump, so I changed the relay and the pump and bike ran fine.
Just got home tonight and went for a 15 minute put in stop and go traffic. same thing happend. bike dies and would not restart just cranks over. waited about 15 minutes and it starts again. Need help fast! (http://images/smiles/icon_mad.gif)
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Forgot, no screens in the fuel pump or injectors. Again, this is a different pump from the first time it happend. The temp. was right in the middle and the fan was on and off.
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Still almost bet it is fuel related!!!!! (http://images/smiles/icon_smile.gif)
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Thanks for the help. Could you narrow it down some! (http://images/smiles/icon_razz.gif)
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Need some help guys.
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If your temp guage is pointing to hot and you have a CHEC on the screen, read my post under 'HELP' "hot start problem". Your wiring loom might have a hole in it, and is moving around causing an earth. If not that, sorry, my only real problem to date.
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Thanks, was just reading your post. I have 2 busas right now and they both get that reading with the temp gauge.
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quote:
Originally posted by Funky Moped:
is moving around causing an earth.
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Sorry, don't really have anything to add, just thought that was funny. I've never heard it put that way before.
Don't stress if you don't get many responses tonight, after all, it's already past midnight on the East Coast. (http://images/smiles/icon_eek.gif)
During those 15 minutes when all it will do is turn over, do you hear the fuel pump kicking in when you 1st turn the key to 'on' position?
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yes, I can here the pump.
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I know what it is been there before and suzuki can't tell you neither.It's a ground fault coming from your comp.We went though the same problem,it will get worse...It's just like someone just cuts the switch off and it want start back till around 15 to 20 min.Even though you think you hear your fuel pump take you a small piece of wire with you and as soon as it does it unplug the rela and jump it.(straight wire)I'll tell you how to fix it tomorrow just try what im telling you.Got to look at myne it's been a while.Is yours a 99 also?
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yes. it is a 99. Will be waiting for your response, thanks. (http://images/smiles/icon_wink.gif)
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LOOKING FOR MORE INPUT WITH MY PROBLEM. BIKE IS A 99. ALREADY CAHNGEDS THE FUEL PUMP AND RELAY ONCE BEFORE. WHAT ELSE SHOULD I BE LOOKING FOR?
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It was something to do with the ground from the computer.Sorry have to recheck.I know thats your problem.
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LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU FIND OUT, THANKS.
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396 How's the insulation on the fuel pump? Sounds like you are "boiling" the fuel in the pump. The pummp won't pump a vapor....FREDDIE (http://images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif) (http://images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif) (http://images/smiles/converted/kickass.gif)
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THE INSULATION IS WRAPPED AROUND THE PUMP. THE LAST TIME THIS HAPPEND WAS AT NIGHT, ABOUT 65 DEGREES. THE BIKE WAS RUNNING FINE, BUT GOT INTO SOME STOP AND GO TRAFFIC AND THEN IT DIED.
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396, have you tried disconnecting and reconnecting the ECM yet? If you haven't, give that a try. The very first thing you want to rule out is bad or oxidized connections. If the connectors are starting to develop a bad connection from oxidation, the ECM could intermitently lose power, sensor info or whatever is required by the ECM and possibly cause this scenario. For that matter, it wouldn't be a bad idea to go around checking and reseating all the various sensor connectors.
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WILL GIVE IT A SHOT RIGHT NOW.
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just happend to me again this evening. This is the first time it cut off when the bike was moving. I do not think it is a fuel problem now. The bike just shut of completely, no burble or hick up like it is running out of fuel. Just like the on off switch was shut off instantly. I am thinking it might be the crankshaft position sensor? I will switch it and see what happens.
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Have you checked the simple stuff already, like for a loose battery cable. Seems like that was the reason for somebody elses problems before. Check the ground cable down by the starter as well.
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The whole bike does not shut down. Lights and gauges are still working. The motor just dies.
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What about the infamous TMH tip over swith ????? (http://images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) (http://images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif)
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I thought about that too. I will try that if the crankshaft sensor does not work.
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Did ya check for codes yet??? I don't think the tipover switch (http://images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) will trigger a code, I could be wrong!!!
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I am not getting an FI light. So I did not think there would be any codes. Anyone make the dealer mode checking switch? (http://images/smiles/icon_rolleyes.gif)
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396 you can just jump the two wires that the switch would connect. A paperclip works. JUST DON'T TOUCH A GROUND.........FREDDIE (http://images/smiles/converted/thumb.gif) (http://images/smiles/converted/thumb.gif)
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temp sensor? pc 2
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tried unplugging the PCll when it happend no change. Also jumped the fuel pump relay, no go either. I can hear the pump comming on.
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just tried another ECU still would not start. It is happeneing more frequently now than ever. Changed the stator and crank posistion sensor and the bike died again. I am looking at changing the temp sensor next. The problems seem to start when the electric fan comes on. I am putting another battery in it just to make sure.
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pump gone bad (http://images/smiles/converted/yes.gif)
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396, it now sounds like you have an intermitent kill switch. Jumper the kill switch and see whether you conk out anymore. It's happened to me on another bike I had and I remember reading about someone else having that problem on their Busa.
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will take a look at the kill switch. If that proves nothing than I will swap pumps again. Thanks goodness I have another busa in my garage right now!!!!!
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kill would not allow pump to cycle or starter to crank
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As of right now MOTORHEAD IS RIGHT AGAIN!swapped pumps and so far it has not stalled. let it sit and idle for a while. The fan comes on and off and it continues to run fine. only rode it around the block, to tired to mess with it any more. It has run the longest now with the pump change. Thanks Dennis. I hope it stays fixed. Anybody gotta 2000 pump for sale so I can replace the one I took off the other bike? (http://images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif)
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quote:
Originally posted by 396:
As of right now MOTORHEAD IS RIGHT AGAIN!swapped pumps and so far it has not stalled. let it sit and idle for a while. The fan comes on and off and it continues to run fine. only rode it around the block, to tired to mess with it any more. It has run the longest now with the pump change. Thanks Dennis. I hope it stays fixed. Anybody gotta 2000 pump for sale so I can replace the one I took off the other bike? (http://images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif)
Ha, Biotch I said fuel related!!! (http://images/smiles/icon_smile.gif)
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I give you credit also. Thanks to everyone for there input. If it stalls again, its all your fault!! (http://images/smiles/converted/lmao.gif)
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There are two wires that go to the kill switch. If the O/B wire opens it kills the ignition only but the engine can still be turned over with the starter. If the O/W wire opens it cuts the ignition AND the starter/fuel pump. If the problem does occur again, examine the connector that the wires from the kill switch connect to. In particular the O/B wire. Look for any pins that may be bent, pushed out of the connector or any wires that may have come loose from the connector.
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hey jael, 'fuel related' didnt help him at all if you read back, you tosser.
Dennis, reset jaels posts to 0 please.
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Dwight youve got me confused.
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If you ignored the colors of the wires, it is basically one wire that passes thru the kill switch on its way to wherever right? I know thats not exactly right but just to be simple.
so how can it matter which wire breaks? or are you saying the kill switch has two circuits going thru it, one for the ignition and one for everything else.
it would seem to me that breaking EITHER wire is no different then flipping the kill switch.
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THAT WOULD TRIGGER AN FI LIGHT
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This problem cannot be solved. Ten thousand threads and one million posts on the subject prove it.
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I will let everyone know how it continues to go with the bike. Thanks again. Now maybe I can go to the track and see the results of the dyno time! (http://images/smiles/converted/moped.gif)