Author Topic: chevy V8 valve adjustment... (Read 38834 times) Tweet

Fred Martin · « **Reply #50 on:** February 06, 2004, 07:06:00 PM »

Read this post its from another site there is more ways to adjust them

www.dragraceresults.com is a real good car site. Its the SH.org site of cars.

http://drr.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=3476075&f=80760912&m=73060732&r=83060732

Crane I believe has a tech article on adjusting lifters also so you may check there site out.

SUTPHEN77 · « **Reply #51 on:** February 06, 2004, 07:17:00 PM »

fmart i totally agree with you but what happens if there is a collapsed lifter, or one that isnt pumped up yet. i learned the hard way, i always soak lifters in oil before i install but for some reason it didnt hold the oil, well needless to say when it pumped up, bent push rod. i know that was just a freak of nature but it does happen, than again started drinking (beer) before i even put the crank and pistons in

Fred Martin · « **Reply #52 on:** February 06, 2004, 07:25:00 PM »

I agree with you also thats why I asked if he had the intake off and forgot to tell him to pull any that doesn't seem to pump up solid and like you said soak/pump up by using his finger while they are soaking in oil. Hope he reads this before putting the intake on.

SUTPHEN77 · « **Reply #53 on:** February 06, 2004, 07:30:00 PM »

Fred Martin · « **Reply #54 on:** February 06, 2004, 07:38:00 PM »

Myself I use the EO/IC method and go/no go method but I also don't mess with hyd. lifters anymore. I run a full roller valve train in my bbc car which runs 6.38 on engine 5.63 on n2o not bad for a 3000 lb. car and and pulls the front wheels about 4ft in the air.

squirts1 · « **Reply #55 on:** February 06, 2004, 07:49:00 PM »

no, i didnt... but i just turned it until the intake valve on #1 lifted then started adjusting there... went around all intakes then started the exhaust valves
yeah, some of them seemed like they were collapsed... so i guess i gotta go do it again?

i havent put it back together yet, just adjusted and covered it... they wouldnt be collapsed though unless i just adjusted them too tight or if the cam was pushing the lifter up at the time...

i just turned the nut with my finger until i barely felt resistance spinning the pushrods.... then went just a little bit less than 1/4 turn past that point

SUTPHEN77 · « **Reply #56 on:** February 06, 2004, 07:57:00 PM »

youre almost there, i would still start the car, and check everything. if you turn it over by hand or by key, when both valves are at TDC you should be able to grab the rocker and move it side to side slightly, or like fmart said you should be able to turn th p-rods easily

lanta · « **Reply #57 on:** February 06, 2004, 08:03:00 PM »

If some are soft then you at least need to spin it over to get oil in all the lifters.

SUTPHEN77 · « **Reply #58 on:** February 06, 2004, 08:15:00 PM »

SUTPHEN77 · « **Reply #59 on:** February 06, 2004, 08:16:00 PM »

solids are so easy, not much thinking involved

squirts1 · « **Reply #60 on:** February 07, 2004, 09:55:00 AM »

even if they are empty they will naturally sit like they are fully pumped up wont they?

unless there is pressure on them?

Fred Martin · « **Reply #61 on:** February 07, 2004, 11:22:00 PM »

Fred Martin · « **Reply #62 on:** February 07, 2004, 11:34:00 PM »

YES Your right about that. Do you have a long screwdriver that you can take and put down the distibutor hole and spin the oil pump with? If you do take and knock the handle off and put the screwdriver into a drill so you can spin it over. Also the parts store may have a oil primer. Or if you got something else that will fit use it.

If not get a well charged battery and disconnect the coil wire and spin the engine over till you notice oil coming pumping trough the pushrods and after that your set to go. But the best way to do that is using the screw driver so the starter doesn't get to hot.

Also when you install the dist. back into it after the engine the easiest way to tell if your on the compression stroke is both #1 in. and ex. valves will be closed.

squirts1 · « **Reply #63 on:** February 07, 2004, 12:13:00 PM »

fookin distributor wont seat... all my marks are lined up... its just stuck less than half an inch too high...

squirts1 · « **Reply #64 on:** February 07, 2004, 12:23:00 PM »

wiggle wiggle ... still trying...

emarsh · « **Reply #65 on:** February 07, 2004, 12:39:00 PM »

I've seen solid lifter with the circlip too.

Its actually pretty easy to adjust hydralics with the engine off and cold. I used to build motors for a living and did this all the time.

Take the plugs out and set the motor to #1 TDC. At this point I would see if there is any free play on the rockers. if there is then the odds are you have solid lifters and will need to identify your cam. If you don't want to want to pull it you might be able to degree it out and see if anyone makes a cam with the same specs as yours.

If there is no free play then I'd guess hydralics. Back the nuts off until you have free play. Then use two fingers to spin the pushrod while you slowly tighen the adjustors. At some point you will begin to feel a light drag. This is zero lash. Now turn the nut the extra 1/4-1/2 turn or whatever you decide is right.

At this point the pushrod will be very hard to turn. Give it a few minutes and then try to turn it again. If it has become easier then its a hydralic and has bled off. If it remains very hard to turn then you may have solid lifters.

Once you are done with #1, rotate the crank 90 degrees clockwise (looking towards the back of the car) and do #8. (You don't need to do the bleed off test.) Continue on down the firing order, 18436572, if I remember correctly.

Eric

squirts1 · « **Reply #66 on:** February 07, 2004, 12:54:00 PM »

finally got that stupid distributer to fall into place

... took several rotations of the motor... first time it fell one click off, next time it didnt fall in at all... then tried it again and presto!

ya, they are hydraulic... they did just like that, were stiff then loosened up after... i adjusted them last night that way and re did them this morning... this morning i did them like that car site said intake open exhaust closed adjust and vice versa. and instead of rotating the pushrods this time i wiggled up and down until free play was gone then another 1/4

squirts1 · « **Reply #67 on:** February 07, 2004, 04:25:00 PM »

think i oughta replace the intake gasket? looked good to me... but ya never know, a lot of people say replace the gasket on anything anytime it gets removed and others dont unless it looks like it needs it

or the carb gaskets...

guess ill just see if they leak or not

Fred Martin · « **Reply #68 on:** February 07, 2004, 05:14:00 PM »

I would probly replace them. Intake gasket is around 20 and carb gasket is 3. Do not use the 2 rubber pieces you will get (go on the block). Just use a bunch of silicone on the block. And the way you did is the best way thats the only way I actually do it.

If you don't know you will need to tell them the air pressure in the tires, color of car and air conditioned, power steering along with crank up windows and so on (JUST JOKING). Don't you just like them parts stores.

Now to be serious you will need to know if it rectangle or oval port heads go to www.mortec.com or post the casting numbers and somebody can tell you. They are in the center of the heads under the valve cover.

I just love it when I go in and get a rearend gasket for my camaro and tell them its got a 9" ford. Or tell them it got a bbc in it.

squirts1 · « **Reply #69 on:** February 07, 2004, 05:22:00 PM »

hah yeah, actually this 55 chevy pickup has a 9" ford in it... and the motors from an ss impala

it already has those rubber sections bein used

Fred Martin · « **Reply #70 on:** February 07, 2004, 05:34:00 PM »

If you already have the intake on go ahead and fire it up and spray carb cleaner around the intake to see if it leaks.

I wouldn't worry about the carb gaskets unless you took them off.

turbobusa65 · « **Reply #71 on:** February 07, 2004, 06:02:00 PM »

SQUIRT'S ya say the motor's from an impala whay year? 396 or 427? square or oval port head's? Talkin bout part store's I got'em to the point around here where they just let me go in the back the counter and look for what I need. when they put these new kid's in there I like to make'um look for a 72 vega wagon, big block 427 roller motor, bored 100 over, Injected on alcohol, turbo400, manual valve body, 5000 stall, 488 geared, dana60 with 14.5 by 32" goodyear's with wheelie bars!

squirts1 · « **Reply #72 on:** February 07, 2004, 06:46:00 PM »

68 impala, 427

yeah, when i go to the parts places i just tell em i have a 68 impala 427 if im lookin for an engine part

i dunno where the transmission came from, but it's a muncie 4 speed from about the same year as the engine

there's an advance auto about 10 miles from me where the "kid" in the store is better than any of the other employees including the manager.

what's even worse is going in there trying to get something for the bike

i can never figure out what to say...

squirts1 · « **Reply #73 on:** February 07, 2004, 06:56:00 PM »

ya know... either i got the distributor on the wrong slot... or those gaskets are leaking... or SOMETHIN but she doesnt want to start and is popping through atleast one of the carbs every once in a while during cranking...

incosistant cranking speed too, probably both (timing and gaskets)

i'll figure it out tomorrow i guess...

lanta · « **Reply #74 on:** February 07, 2004, 07:02:00 PM »

You're 180 degrees off, bro.

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Author Topic: chevy V8 valve adjustment... (Read 38834 times) Tweet