Yosh Cam problem

[JIMMY1]

i had a problem with a set of used yosh cams i bought a little while back,  about 60%throttle at 7k rpms, the bike broke up bad and errer code for cam position sensor popped up.  i removed the cams and put the stockers back in and the bike ran perfect,  then put the two intake in and the bike ran perfect.  i contacted yosh r&d in CA and i ended up ending the cams back to them so that they could check them out.  after they looked at them,  they said they were fine and then told me that yosh cams are to be set at 14 pins between marks on the sprockets.  then they ent me a set of intructions that had different lift and durations and a diagram showing to et them at the 14 pins,  not the 15 pins that suzuki states.  anyone have any idea why the cam cards would be different and has anyone ever had to set these up at 14 pins rather than the 15 pins?

[gazza414]

The cams need to be degreed..the pins count is just to help with initial "setup" so "things dont hit straight up....

its the LCD that matter.

I have setup cams with 17 links at times in order to get the clamping bolts nearly hard up on the back of the slots.....its a just in case frame of mind


ummmm I assume now after reading your post that maybe you were hoping to really drop them in and expect the LCD to be spot on according to Yoshi??

[DarkFalcon]

As I recall, someone else recently posted a similar situation...........receiving and installing a set of Yosh cams with spec's different than those normally published by Yosh; I am fairly confident that there are two grinds floating about but I am not quite sure how you go about purchasing the preferred profile. Some time ago, I bought and installed a set of Yosh cams but used 15 pins between the timing marks........a case of having blind faith in factory settings. In any event, the cams must be degreed.

[JIMMY1]

the cams were degreed and the shims were checked and in spec,  cams are supposed to be delivered tomorrow and i wanna put this engine back together asap, its tarting to get cold,  just trying to find out why one cam card has different specs than another cam card even though its the same part number and why all of a sudden they are telling me they have to be set at 14 when others are using the 15 setup,  i really wanted to run a yosh intake and a factory intake on the exhaust side,  but if the sprocket diam are different,  then that cant be done,  i guessing the sprockets would be different sizes if they use 14 instead of 15

[mountainmotor]

Besides whats been previously discussed here and @ the other site ,the used cams you have might have slightly turned inside the " cam sprocket adapter " from use of heavy springs and lotsa hi-rpm . I forgot to add the possibility

Something to think about anyway if they are not already tack welded to the cams .

I believe the 250 duration@ 1mm IN - 228@ 1mm EX cams might have been the true original X1 cams for the rare endurance racer --- the early purposed stage II's never made "lift" off that I know of . I wish they had . There might have been more retainer to guideseal clearance all these years

[Gixx1300R]

Check the pin heigth on the yosh intake cam vs the stock cam

[JIMMY1]

measured the cam pin and they are identical,  i had yosh verify this and i also had them verify that the sprockets did not spin on the cam.  i even ground down the cam sensor just to lower its position with no difference,  this was before i pulled the cams out, just wanted to see if this had any effect and it didnt.  ill wait and see what yosh says, maybe these are a different grind or something.

[gazza414]

Have you got another Cam Position Sensor to try?

[midnight black man]

http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/index.php?topic=115248.msg1070807#msg1070807

that's the post darkfalcon refferded to...

about your problem...never pay attention to pin count...its the factory's way to give instructions to "dummies"...meaning preset cam gears and setting up without dialing...no offence here to anybody,just making a point...

as mentioned before ,put em in roughly at spot and then dial them in...

set them up at 105 both for starters,which is a fairly all around setting for a stocker,and see how it goes...

good luck...

[JIMMY1]

the motor is set up with tall deck mtc stock bore pistons with a .060 spacer, bigger valve springs, titanium retainers, spraying 70 shot dry now,   will eventually go to a wet syatem,  also have the ub III with hub, screen and ignition module,  what are the recomendations for etting these cams up for this setup?

[midnight black man]

106-108

[JIMMY1]

i just spoke with yosh in CA and he has no clue as to why there are two different cam cards for the same cams.  he told me he will contact the right people in the japan office and try to figure this out,  lets see what he says

[DarkFalcon]

the motor is set up with tall deck mtc stock bore pistons with a .060 spacer, bigger valve springs, titanium retainers, spraying 70 shot dry now,   will eventually go to a wet syatem,  also have the ub III with hub, screen and ignition module,  what are the recomendations for etting these cams up for this setup?

With nitrous, particular attention must be paid to the exhaust side because of higher temperatures and increased volume of combustion byproducts..........meaning you must open the exhaut earlier and manage overlap, suggesting something like 106/109 which should be OK as a starting point for the dry shot.

[omgang]

i just spoke with yosh in CA and he has no clue as to why there are two different cam cards for the same cams.  he told me he will contact the right people in the japan office and try to figure this out,  lets see what he says

You'll see in the link posted earlier that I had the exact same experience talking to Yosh about the differing cam specs.  At one time I had both sets of instructions showing different cam specs for the exact same part#.  Regardless, degree them properly and you'll be fine.

OM Gang