Where to shave weight off a busa?

[iScream]

I'm really wishing for a liter bike lately but it's going to be a while before I can actually do anything about it.  For now, I'm wondering where I might shave some weight off my stock 2005 busa to make it a little more nimble.  I know the exhaust is number one.  Still have my PAIR valve so there's a couple pounds.  Is there anywhere else on the bike I can get get good bang for my buck and shave meaningful weight?

I'm probably going to be riding with a whole bunch of 600's, 750's and 1000's this spring and I just want to be able to hang with them a little better in the curves...

Thanks,
Chris

[Lamb busa]

More important than shaving weight it to improve your riding.  Now without track time or a closed road where to do it.  You can improve your riding immensely by doing low speed practice.  If you can drag your knee on the ground while doing circles in a parking lot,  it can be done,  your riding at speed increases dramatically.  Try quick left and right handers going as slow as you can go,  safely.  Try u-turn from a stop and then back to a stop.  You can work on these without your friends around for a surprise for them.  These work dramatically! 

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Lightweight wheels will have a huge affect on handling by not only reducing weight but unspung weight. This alone will make the busa handle noticeably better.
Second thing is getting rid of the stock steering damper and get a better one.
With both these mods you will feel like you are on a 1K.


The second way to reduce weight is to get an aftermarket 4-1 full system.
THis will not only give you more HP but will loose up to 20 pounds over stock.
Well worth the $$$.

Peps say that CF over stock plastic will save weight…..
Seems like a lot of money for the poundage to me.

-JH

[Texanzone]

Most of us could do great things with a diet

[busa2001]

wheels, exhaust, fender eliminator (every little bit helps), carbon fiber body kit...it's not cheap...

[Slo Rob]

I changed the front footpegs (to some that came off a GSXR1000) and the bar ends. May not be alolt, but the weights under the footpegs and the bar ends, themselves, are pretty heavy.

[TrickTom1]

alum. subframe, glass tank

[BrianK]

Most of us could do great things with a diet

+1

[Mike-Nightrider]

Diet.
And it costs no money 

[iScream]

Thanks everybody. 

Sounds like after doing the exhaust things get expensive.  I knew about the older sub frames that are lighter weight but I don't know if I want to tackle that or not.  Never thought about a glass tank.  That sounds interesting since the weight would come off the bike up high and help lower the CG.  What does something like that cost and where do you get one?

I'm an OK rider but I can certainly improve a lot.  I read some books from Keith Code a few years ago when I was still riding a ZX-9R and I've practiced some.  Hope to do a couple track days this year to help out with that even more.  I think I've surprised a few guys on lighter bikes before and I had some funny looks from people after counter steering the busa to throw it from side to side.

I could probably shave about 10 pounds off myself as well.   

-Chris

[grecco]

add a stage 1 turbo with a dump pipe.
that will compensate for the weight of the bike.

 

[tapout]

I ordered an aluminum subframe off E-bay (it came from guy or mike caputto @ MPR) and I paid $130 and it took 7 pounds off and took all of 20-30 minutes to swap out. That is the cheapest 7 pounds you will find on the bike, and it was easy to do as well.

[dakinebusa]

Here ya go...from the olde days....


ITEM
 STOCK (in oz)
 NEW
 SAVINGS
 COST/OZ
 
Front Wheel w/rotors & bolts
 272
 154.85     (dymag & PFM)
 117.15
 $17.49
 
Front rotor (1)
 61.5
 50.5                             (PFM)
 11 * 2
 $27.27
 
Rotor Bolts (10)
 6.5
 3.45                     (Yoydyne ti)
 43.05
 $32.62/oz
 
Front Axle
 16
 
 
 
 
Front Calipers & lines
 84
 52                             (FPM)
 32
 
 
Rearsets
 80
 16
 64
 $9.76/oz
 
Triple Clamp & clipons
 104
 36
 68
 $9.55/oz
 
Passenger foot pegs & exhaust mounts
 41
 5        (Yosh hi pipe mount)
 36
 
 
Passenger grab rail
 43.1
 
 43.1
 
 
PAIR & bolts/lines
 40.2
 
 40.2
 
 
Exhaust header/can
 480
 116.8                  (Yosh TI)
 363.2
 $4.68/oz
 
Counter shaft cover
 12.52
 
 
 
 
Front sprocket (17)
 12
 
 
 
 
Rear Axle
 18
 
 
 
 
Rear sprocket (40)
 26
 12                   (AFAM 520)
 14
 $2.50/oz
 
Chain (530)
 88
 60                       (DID 520)
 28
 $4.46/oz
 
Rear rotor
 40
 8                    (Yoyodyne ti)
 32
 $10.93/oz
 
Cush drive
 64
 32                         (Techno)
 32
 
 
Rear wheel
 248
 130.4                  (dymag)
 117.6
 $6.90
 
Reflectors
 8
 0
 8
 
 
Wind screen
 20
 10           (Magical Racing)
 10
 $30/oz
 
Rear Turn signals
 16
 10         (Lockhart Phillips)
 6
 
 
Shock
 140.95
 
 
 
 
Passenger Seat
 38
 0
 38
 
 
Rider Seat
 38.44
 
 
 
 
Tail section & Hump & light
 96
 26
 70
 
 
Misc Bolts
 56
 
 56
 
 
Front Fairing & Head light
 117
 32
 85
 
 
Front Fender
 30
 16
 14
 
 
Left Fairing
 60
 30
 30
 
 
Right Fairing
 66
 26
 40
 
 
Inner-upper fairing
 8
 0
 8
 
 
Under nose front fairing
 6
 0
 6
 
 
Ram Air Tubes (L&R)
 24.78
 16
 8.78
 
 
Tool Kit
 28.2
 0
 28.2
 
 
Under Tail Plastic
 48
 0
 48
 
 
Fuel tank
 240
 112
 128
 $10.15/oz
 
Fuel tank filter
 4.82
 
 
 
 
Fuel tank mount bracket
 27.32
 
 
 
 
Air Box
 79.64
 
 
 
 
Mirrors
 25.39
 
 
 
 
Radiator cooling fan
 3.60
 
 
 
 
Kick Stand
 28.89
 
 
 
 

[Mike-Nightrider]

Don`t forget a billet fuel cap.
Or dit I overlook it?

[BrianK]

add a stage 1 turbo with a dump pipe.
that will compensate for the weight of the bike.

 

+1 turbo is the eventual answer to everything

[busastars]

I ordered an aluminum subframe off E-bay (it came from guy or mike caputto @ MPR) and I paid $130 and it took 7 pounds off and took all of 20-30 minutes to swap out. That is the cheapest 7 pounds you will find on the bike, and it was easy to do as well.

Cheaper still, dont eat for a week along with plenty of running, 14 pound for free.

If you are trying to save weight for handleing you want to do rotational weight, ie: the wheel's otherwise dont bother. Learning to ride better is what it is all about, you can still have fun in the twisties with 600-1000, most of it is down to the rider, and if your slightly behind, well its not exactly Moto GP where you lose points for second place and that extra tenth of a thow on your local road I doubt woud be down to the 7lb lost on a subframe.

I want my bike to handle a little better, but that is to make the bike suit my riding a little more, but I am very used to it and can thrash it within an inch of it's life and can keep with lighter smaller bikes, down to the rider.

A 10 stone rider is not going to be faster than a 13 stone rider just cause he is 3 stone lighter, if he is it's down to how good he can ride. I do like a little bulk on a bike, it feals more planted.

But if weight is an issue give up carbs and live on protien food.

[TrickTom1]

I want some carcon fiber wheels one day

[Mike-Nightrider]

Me too.
But the money........

[Texanzone]

I want some carcon fiber wheels one day

me too

[Ksana]

+1 on everything above
wheels should be 1st or right after exhaust

[warezdog]

Like most say, after the exhaust, aluminum subframe it gets expensive.
Carb tank about $600, carb wheels new are nearly $2k

After improving your riding, going on a diet, and adjusting your suspension you'll be much happier and richer!

After getting my busa and redoing the stock suspension settings you'll notice a huge diff, really do they hire monkeys to put these together out of the box?

Mine was so far off I wanted to cage the monkey that put mine together.

Theres a great walk thru on another busa forum, I'm sure theres one here too.

My mushy busa corners were solved by making the Laden Sag in the front as close to 3.449" as possible and then go wtih 4 clicks damp, 3 rebound

For the rear compress the spring two full turns or about 4mm and damp 7 clicks rebound 10

I'm 5'9 and 165 these worked perfectly for me heavier riders will have to play with them a bit and super bumpy roads will not be so forgiving, this also does NOT count if you've installed dog bones, extended swing arm, etc, THEY ARE FOR STOCK busas and for a good starting reference point.
OBTW you DONT need a special tool for the rear compression adjustment like the book says, just knock the top lock nut loose with an old screwdriver and hammer but dont be a gorilla about it!

Always remember to track your adjustments, and when I refer to clicks its from a complete IN position going OUT.

[glenn71]

titanium exhaust 10kgs plus with pair system gone
carbon wheels 7-8 kg
alloy subframe 2.6kg
kevlar tank      5kg
titanium rear spring 1.5-2kg
aftermarket rear shock 1 kg
ceramic rotors            1.8kg
titanium axles             .5kg
rear sets
triple clamp top plate
carbon body work.You can pull over 30 kg off the bike if you want or you can buy a gixxer 1000 as a second bike?

[warezdog]

But then wheres the fun in that?! Its just a busa thing I guess

[glenn71]

mines 25kg lighter than stock and dads is 30 kg lighter so you can guess i don,t have a gixxer 1000.

[Ruben Battle]

Know the type of riding that you want to do.  I don't have a problem riding with the lighter bikes on the Busa.  It's more fun pulling them in on the straights. 

[species0113]

No substitute for exercise and seat time. You could send that bike to Yoshimura, get it back, and still not be able to keep up with a better then average rider on a 600 in the twisties.

[CADDYWOMPUS]

No substitute for exercise and seat time. You could send that bike to Yoshimura, get it back, and still not be able to keep up with a better then average rider on a 600 in the twisties.

Thats it. Bottom line.
 Personally I think if you want a 400 lb bike you should just go trade for one, Its way cheaper.

[gat0r]

definitely, No substitute for seat time
however before you go shaving weight, get suspension tuned.
-fork & shock springs depending on yur weight.
-tune the forks
-lower front .5-.75" front & raise rear 1"


that'll make a huge diff in cornering capabilities.

[jscarb2]

i have been trying to find a list like this that is really a big help!

Here ya go...from the olde days....


ITEM
 STOCK (in oz)
 NEW
 SAVINGS
 COST/OZ
 
Front Wheel w/rotors & bolts
 272
 154.85     (dymag & PFM)
 117.15
 $17.49
 
Front rotor (1)
 61.5
 50.5                             (PFM)
 11 * 2
 $27.27
 
Rotor Bolts (10)
 6.5
 3.45                     (Yoydyne ti)
 43.05
 $32.62/oz
 
Front Axle
 16
 
 
 
 
Front Calipers & lines
 84
 52                             (FPM)
 32
 
 
Rearsets
 80
 16
 64
 $9.76/oz
 
Triple Clamp & clipons
 104
 36
 68
 $9.55/oz
 
Passenger foot pegs & exhaust mounts
 41
 5        (Yosh hi pipe mount)
 36
 
 
Passenger grab rail
 43.1
 
 43.1
 
 
PAIR & bolts/lines
 40.2
 
 40.2
 
 
Exhaust header/can
 480
 116.8                  (Yosh TI)
 363.2
 $4.68/oz
 
Counter shaft cover
 12.52
 
 
 
 
Front sprocket (17)
 12
 
 
 
 
Rear Axle
 18
 
 
 
 
Rear sprocket (40)
 26
 12                   (AFAM 520)
 14
 $2.50/oz
 
Chain (530)
 88
 60                       (DID 520)
 28
 $4.46/oz
 
Rear rotor
 40
 8                    (Yoyodyne ti)
 32
 $10.93/oz
 
Cush drive
 64
 32                         (Techno)
 32
 
 
Rear wheel
 248
 130.4                  (dymag)
 117.6
 $6.90
 
Reflectors
 8
 0
 8
 
 
Wind screen
 20
 10           (Magical Racing)
 10
 $30/oz
 
Rear Turn signals
 16
 10         (Lockhart Phillips)
 6
 
 
Shock
 140.95
 
 
 
 
Passenger Seat
 38
 0
 38
 
 
Rider Seat
 38.44
 
 
 
 
Tail section & Hump & light
 96
 26
 70
 
 
Misc Bolts
 56
 
 56
 
 
Front Fairing & Head light
 117
 32
 85
 
 
Front Fender
 30
 16
 14
 
 
Left Fairing
 60
 30
 30
 
 
Right Fairing
 66
 26
 40
 
 
Inner-upper fairing
 8
 0
 8
 
 
Under nose front fairing
 6
 0
 6
 
 
Ram Air Tubes (L&R)
 24.78
 16
 8.78
 
 
Tool Kit
 28.2
 0
 28.2
 
 
Under Tail Plastic
 48
 0
 48
 
 
Fuel tank
 240
 112
 128
 $10.15/oz
 
Fuel tank filter
 4.82
 
 
 
 
Fuel tank mount bracket
 27.32
 
 
 
 
Air Box
 79.64
 
 
 
 
Mirrors
 25.39
 
 
 
 
Radiator cooling fan
 3.60
 
 
 
 
Kick Stand
 28.89
 
 
 
 

[99hayabusa]

i dont know if this was mentioned srry if it was......you can remove one of the frt. rotors and caliper. its done more than you may think. some say it aint worth it for the street others say they can still lock up their frt tire so they feel it is still suficient

[RodeRash]

The cheapest way to loose weight is to trade it on a GSXR-1000.

[Rocketgeezer]

The cheapest way to loose weight is to trade it on a GSXR-1000.

definatly+1

[Mospeada]

Well, I'm down to 473 lbs w/ a 1/3 full tank of gas. I still have the stock gas tank and plasics. But thinking of going with a light weight tank in the future, along with a glass mono tail. Also, adj kickstand but no one has said if the kickstand has any weight savings. My major savings are;

BST rims, Ti rotor bolts, Tri-metal sprocket, Galfer wave rotors
HMF dual hi-mount pipe w/ shortened Ti/cf Akropovic cans
Alum sub, Agras triple/clip-ons, vortex gas cap, YS7 battery, no grab rail, no tool case
Mototek (?) undertail/custom lights, CF front fender, gsxr-750 pegs, no rr rear sets
Ohlins shock, ohlins fork internals, ohlins damper

So, with the above, stock length slammed/strapped stock motor (169 rwhp) stock shifting, my best 1/4 is 9.61 @ 151 w/ a 1.61 60 foot IN CALIFORNIA w/ crappy Cali 91 gas. My bike is a canyon carver first, tour bike 2nd, and the occasion drag strip 3rd.

[uzimon]

Carb tank about $600,

got a link for that price?
cheapest i found was yoyodine for $1k

[uzimon]

kevlar tank      5kg

where can i find a kevlar tank?

[SPARKY1397R]

rider 

[Rocketgeezer]

rider 

Hey Sparky, you hit that nail on the head

[genarr3]

When you do actually go to a track day you'll quickly realize the bike has NOTHING to do with it. I guarantee you see guys on old crappy junk passing people on shinny new state of the art machines.

Don't be the guy with all the bells and whistles that doesn't know how to use them.
Do a few track days, your riding buddies will think you're superman.

[uzimon]

When you do actually go to a track day you'll quickly realize the bike has NOTHING to do with it. I guarantee you see guys on old crappy junk passing people on shinny new state of the art machines.

Don't be the guy with all the bells and whistles that doesn't know how to use them.
Do a few track days, your riding buddies will think you're superman.

i see what yer sayin but the street aint the track.
we're stoplight racin and fwy flyin.
knee draggin just dont apply to the street, imo