Best $17 mod - quick throttle

[route69471]

The R1 throttle is good for the street.  I wouldnt try the r6 version on the street.  It's way too aggressive.

Now that i have some more seat time with the R1 tube, i think it is just right for the street.  i spent an hour the other night tearing up some corners, as much as i can with it lowered, but i noticed above 5-6k it becomes alittle touchy in the corners with the throttle position.  the yosh drop in cams might have something to do with it to cause they start to come in around 6-7k.  so i would have to agree that the R1 seems just right for the street, and will help on the track as well.

[grecco]

I have a drag only busa and a street/strip busa. I think im going to order both and see how they work. Very good info though. Cant wait to try it.

i ordered both sets also.
the r1 throttle gave me the sensation of a slightly lower geared bike which made my bike a little more sensitive on the throttle.
(sounds strange, i know)
i never tried the r6 version due to the fact the r1 version made a big difference for me (no dragracing, just fast general riding).
i gave the r6 tube to my friend who dragraces (only) his busa.
he is very very happy with it. it helped his 60ft times (according to him).
 

well, i have the r1 tube on my bike now. i had both of them. when i installed the r1 tube, i thought wow this is plenty difference so i dont need the r6 tube.
i wish i had kept the r6 tube just to try it and see what its like.

[Professor]

The mark to the right (front) is the starting point for both. The Furthest one left (back) is the stock, marked "s". The tube on the bike in the picture is the R6 and you can see how far it goes.

[genarr3]

The mark to the right (front) is the starting point for both. The Furthest one left (back) is the stock, marked "s". The tube on the bike in the picture is the R6 and you can see how far it goes.

Yep. I did the same thing, very little difference.

[thepushercg]

anyone try the r6 throttle tube on the street?

just curious.

i have, not bad at all, you get used to the diff real quick.

[Doogie]

Well had I thought about this a little more................

the $17 bucks was nothing for the mod, but because I leave the line at WOT off the 2 step this mod did nothing for me 

Opps 


it did come in handy early in the morning when I wasn't using the 2 step however 

[grecco]

 

[DreamRyder]

ordered my R1 tube Monday... hope to get it by the weekend... 


PRODUCT INFORMATION:

Mfg Product Number: 4YR-26240-02-00
Description: GRIP ASSY for Yamaha
Order Quantity: 1 Unit Price: $12.48
Total Cost: $12.48 

ORDER TOTALS: 
Item Total: $12.48
Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $0.00
Order Total: $12.48

Got it from:

Mission Motorsports
 1 Doppler
 Irvine, CA 92618

949-582-0351
Email: sales@missionmotorsports.com

E.

[CADDYWOMPUS]

just installed and test rode my bike with the r1  throttle tube .
I cruised ,rode hard ,hit some nice farmilar curves and hoisted a few wheelies with it . Its all good. No downside.
Thanks to threadstarter ( Mospeada) for this cheap mod..

[Mospeada]

Thanks, Pete. 

[Busashot]

So how many of you have had their BUSA on a road course with and without this mod?

What gearing do you guys run as well as mods, hp and such?

I don't have the turbo on it for the road course. So the bike is essentially stock.

The reason I asked is that I like the mod but when I stepped up the gear(small track with little straights also at 5300' altitude) the throttle is way too snatchy and trying to maintain a small % of TP around a corner is a real bitch.

Now the facts. I wanted to run around the track in mostly 2nd gear and 3rd gear once on the longest straight. I'm a big guy @275 fully suited and the bike is stock weighing in @545lbs full tank of fuel. I was 18t and 43t for the turbo app but I decided to try a 16t and 46t combo. Great acceleration and the gas mileage goes out the door but with this gearing and the throttle mod a bit much.

[Blackcloud]

I'm finding that I'm still not leaving at full throttle every time, even with the R1. So I guess I'm going to go R6. it isn't a daily driver, almost all strip, never expected to corner.  I think I'll be fine. I'll stick the R1 on my 04LE

[CADDYWOMPUS]

So how many of you have had their BUSA on a road course with and without this mod?

What gearing do you guys run as well as mods, hp and such?

I don't have the turbo on it for the road course. So the bike is essentially stock.

The reason I asked is that I like the mod but when I stepped up the gear(small track with little straights also at 5300' altitude) the throttle is way too snatchy and trying to maintain a small % of TP around a corner is a real bitch.

Now the facts. I wanted to run around the track in mostly 2nd gear and 3rd gear once on the longest straight. I'm a big guy @275 fully suited and the bike is stock weighing in @545lbs full tank of fuel. I was 18t and 43t for the turbo app but I decided to try a 16t and 46t combo. Great acceleration and the gas mileage goes out the door but with this gearing and the throttle mod a bit much.

Why dont you go in a gear or 2 high .
The drive out is not THAT important is it?
Busa has plenty of torque to keep up corner speed all the way through even at lower  rpm

[glenn71]

Got the r6 tube.Found it a bit touchy coming out of roundabouts with the tre in and all short stacks 16/40 gearing.Without the tre the initail throttle opening softens alot so now no downside and a shorter twist to WOT.The tube seems for slightly thicker handle bars so rattles ever so slightly but less vibey than stock.This mod is staying put.

[Mospeada]

So how many of you have had their BUSA on a road course with and without this mod?

What gearing do you guys run as well as mods, hp and such?

I don't have the turbo on it for the road course. So the bike is essentially stock.

The reason I asked is that I like the mod but when I stepped up the gear(small track with little straights also at 5300' altitude) the throttle is way too snatchy and trying to maintain a small % of TP around a corner is a real bitch.

Now the facts. I wanted to run around the track in mostly 2nd gear and 3rd gear once on the longest straight. I'm a big guy @275 fully suited and the bike is stock weighing in @545lbs full tank of fuel. I was 18t and 43t for the turbo app but I decided to try a 16t and 46t combo. Great acceleration and the gas mileage goes out the door but with this gearing and the throttle mod a bit much.

169 rwhp
16/40
165 lbs, bike is around 480 w/ a full tank

You're a big guy man, but that is a LOT of gearing for a street bike. I would really consider trying out 16/42 at best. With the R1 tube and essentially 8.5 teeth up in the back, it's no wonder the bike is super touchy.

[grecco]

yeah, what he said.
that bike would be really touchy.

an r1 tube on 18/40 gearing on my bike works really well and not toucy at all.
but then again, the factors that help me are lowered compression and 1 tooth higher in the front.

id like to try the r6 and get a good comparison.
(shouldve tried the one i had before i gave it away)

[Busashot]

Yea. I rode it around a little more and decided it's bit much. So I went to the stock 17t and left the 46t rear. Being at high altitude though the more gear really helps the lowend pull. To put into perspective, actual power up here is only about 128hp.

So I went to the road track today and found the gearing to be pretty good. I may have been able to go with the 16t and be in 3rd most of the track and only go to 2nd in a hairpin but that's ok. I hadn't been to the track in 3 years and did pretty decent a little better than my old Busa which made nearly 20HP more. Probably because of properly setup suspension and way better braking. Got a Brembo Master cylinder 19x20, HEL brake lines and SBS HH brake pads. All this allowed me to be smoother. I'm on the cusp of Intermediate to Expert at this outing.

Well, time to convert the bike to Street/Strip basher.....Turbo style.... 

[BADBUSA4U]

ordered from ron ayers today. $9 to ship and 7-10 days. . Should of ordered from the dealer, they said 4 days.

[canyon carver]

169 rwhp
16/40
165 lbs, bike is around 480 w/ a full tank

172rwhp
16/41
197 lbs, bike is 487 w/full tank

You reclaim (or I lose 1hp for every 5lbs.)
32lbs difference    6.4hp
I have a useable 165.6hp next to you. Either start eating donuts or stop removing weight from your bike. I don't like competition.
On a lighter side if you would be willing to strap on a tank bag and throw a 15lb weight in it and back it up with a gut busting breakfast I'd be willing to show you the best roads Malibu canyon has to offer. A guaranteed day of canyon riding from 25mph twistys to high speed sweepers and you'll never ride the same road twice!

[Mospeada]

169 rwhp
16/40
165 lbs, bike is around 480 w/ a full tank

172rwhp
16/41
197 lbs, bike is 487 w/full tank

You reclaim (or I lose 1hp for every 5lbs.)
32lbs difference    6.4hp
I have a useable 165.6hp next to you. Either start eating donuts or stop removing weight from your bike. I don't like competition.
On a lighter side if you would be willing to strap on a tank bag and throw a 15lb weight in it and back it up with a gut busting breakfast I'd be willing to show you the best roads Malibu canyon has to offer. A guaranteed day of canyon riding from 25mph twistys to high speed sweepers and you'll never ride the same road twice!

I see your GSXR-750 swing arm, and raise you 1 carbon fiber tank.

Dude, I didn't know you were in Malibu? I thought you were in the mid-west somewhere. Friends and I are planning to hit up ACH sometime soon, so when we get that planned, I'll email you to meet up. We just went to Malibu a couple of weeks back (ahem, INCREDIBLE winding roads, awesome views...........................pavement has left something to be desired).

Truth is, I haven't weighed the bike lately, I'm estimating. I got 473 lbs with 1/3 a tank. Then I added cf tank, alum adj kickstand, and c/f chain guard and raising links coming in soon. We're probably going to be right about the same weight. I still need to drop my fork 5 mm's to see how that feels, and I hope the raising links will help, I'm sure they would.

[canyon carver]

I dropped mine 10mm for about a month now and am going back to 5mm. The turn in with tight twistys is better but not worth the nervousness felt everywhere else. For my wheelbase and 7/8" up in the rear 5mm is just right. I would think you could do raise the rear and drop the front 10-12mm fairly easy without the bike feeling nervous. I agree 5mm is a good starting point. The roads here leave alot to be desired in their surface, so.... set the compression a little softer. It's all good, just don't let off the gas. Be sure to email me with your next Malibu run, staying away from Angeles Crest, the Import racers cant stay in their lane and too many people are getting hurt. There are more than a few canyon carvers here to show you where you can ride without fear. I'm a firm believer in letting the squids keep law enforcement busy. Basic rule of thumb is don't fly around areas with homes. We usually stop at The Rock Store mid morn on Sundays for Coffee.

[BADBUSA4U]

anyone that can list the steps to the r1 throttle mod?

[route69471]

remove seat and Raise tank, loosen and removed throttle cables from throttle bodies (10 & 12 mm wrench) remove right side bar end, remove 2 phillips head screws from bottom side of throttle housing on right handle bar.  seperate the 2 halves, remove throttle cable ends from throttle slide. then slide the throttle tube of the end of the bar.

just reverese sequence to put back together.

FYI: when putting the 2 halves of the throttle housing back together there is a tab that gets aligned into a hole in the handle bar, this must be inserted in the hole for the housing halves to go back together properly.  You will also have to adjust your throttle cables after the install.

that should be a quick and easy run down.

[grecco]

 

[CADDYWOMPUS]

remove seat and Raise tank, loosen and removed throttle cables from throttle bodies (10 & 12 mm wrench) remove right side bar end, remove 2 phillips head screws from bottom side of throttle housing on right handle bar.  seperate the 2 halves, remove throttle cable ends from throttle slide. then slide the throttle tube of the end of the bar.

just reverese sequence to put back together.

FYI: when putting the 2 halves of the throttle housing back together there is a tab that gets aligned into a hole in the handle bar, this must be inserted in the hole for the housing halves to go back together properly.  You will also have to adjust your throttle cables after the install.

that should be a quick and easy run down.

I did it without lifting tank or disconnecting down below but I think it wouldv'e been easier your way.