Author Topic: Busa Front fork springs (Read 18881 times) Tweet

busastars · « **on:** January 22, 2008, 12:47:31 PM »

Im finding the front fork spring's on my Busa to soft/week, I push it hard and I like the bend's. I was just wondering what springs are avalible and where to get them from, are they expensive, roughly how much do they cost.
I dont want Ohlins, i'm not that rich....

Mospeada · « **Reply #1 on:** January 22, 2008, 12:56:15 PM »

You are correct about the stock springs being too weak. Even if you wrench down compression (top nut on triple clamp) all the way down, you're only going to get about 52 mm's of travel. The target, is about 32-34 mm's of travel.

I have a Racetech front fork with springs and there Gold Valves, and like them alot. You will definately need someone in your area that knows how to rebuild a fork (NOT the dealer, look for a shop that handles road racing bikes). When they are done and installed, you want them to then set up the bike to your weight (they'll do this with you there, on the bike).

There are other companies that will re-spring/re-valve your forks, but you'll have to look around, I'm drawing a blank right now.

busastars · « **Reply #2 on:** January 22, 2008, 01:23:32 PM »

I was thinking of replacing just the spring's myself and putting new oil in. I took the bike out today ( first dry day in age's ) I was riding with my bro and his mate, a VTR Firestorm, CBR 929 Fireblade. Because I was out with them I rode harder that I usuarly would but I do ride like an a** at the best of time's.

What I am finding is this: I was breaking hard in-between other vehicle's etc with a fair bit of movement as hear car drivers dont see bikes, because of the amount of movement in the front it's making the bike behave like a pendulem and the rear seem to be skiping alot with not alot of control in the rear. Also going mid bend the front tends to drift a little causing the rear to move.

Well dont know if that make's any sence but thats the best way I can describe it.

canyon carver · « **Reply #3 on:** January 22, 2008, 01:29:28 PM »

Racetech, great bang for the buck. Worst case, remove your forks and send them to Racetech with your weight and they'll do the rest.

busastars · « **Reply #4 on:** January 22, 2008, 01:41:02 PM »

Quote from: canyon carver on January 22, 2008, 01:29:28 PM

Racetech, great bang for the buck. Worst case, remove your forks and send them to Racetech with your weight and they'll do the rest.

Racetech being who/what. Googled it but so many things under Racetech.

canyon carver · « **Reply #5 on:** January 22, 2008, 01:50:36 PM »

www.race-tech.com ph. 951-279-6655

Mospeada · « **Reply #6 on:** January 22, 2008, 04:23:06 PM »

Quote from: busastars on January 22, 2008, 01:23:32 PM

What I am finding is this: I was breaking hard in-between other vehicle's etc with a fair bit of movement as hear car drivers dont see bikes, because of the amount of movement in the front it's making the bike behave like a pendulem and the rear seem to be skiping alot with not alot of control in the rear. Also going mid bend the front tends to drift a little causing the rear to move.

When it's loose, it will rock back and forth, it will dive a LOT and then squat a lot when you get back on the gas. Tightening up the shock, and getting springs will definately help.

Front end drifting? That's a sign of burnt/old oil in your fork. Most don't realize you're supposed to flush/replace every 2 years or so, as fork oil (like clutch/brake fluid) gets burnt, old, and dirty.

I work a LOT on my bike, but I don't mess with hydraulic stuff, especially the fork. If you can do it, great, but it's not exactly Lego's.

Good luck.

Blue · « **Reply #7 on:** January 22, 2008, 07:52:50 PM »

I just got back from a race tuner's shop after dropping off my forks for Race Tech Gold Valve and 1.1 kg/mm spring install.

This shop uses Silkolene synthetic fork oil, should last MUCH longer than conventional oil. I bought the bike very late in the season (spent just a little over $9K out the door) so it only has 1300 miles on it. The breaking in has occurred, all that material will now be flushed out and clean and I fully expect this oil to be serviceable in four seasons.

Looking at the bike sans forks, I thought it would be a great time to change the lines; I'm looking for the Goodridge OEM crossover style in stainless steel.

Another thing: these forks require some special tools to disassemble and anyone familiar with right side up forks might find these a challenge. I did a complete fork rebuild and installed fresh springs and Gold Valves in my ZRX five years ago and it was involved but relatively straightforward. It appears buying the correct tools would be at least a couple hundred bucks and since the labor for the gold valve and spring install is $225, I said screw it, I'll have someone I trust do it.

Blue

CADDYWOMPUS · « **Reply #8 on:** February 04, 2008, 03:54:23 PM »

Quote from: Blue on January 22, 2008, 07:52:50 PM

I just got back from a race tuner's shop after dropping off my forks for Race Tech Gold Valve and 1.1 kg/mm spring install.

This shop uses Silkolene synthetic fork oil, should last MUCH longer than conventional oil. I bought the bike very late in the season (spent just a little over $9K out the door) so it only has 1300 miles on it. The breaking in has occurred, all that material will now be flushed out and clean and I fully expect this oil to be serviceable in four seasons.

Looking at the bike sans forks, I thought it would be a great time to change the lines; I'm looking for the Goodridge OEM crossover style in stainless steel.

Another thing: these forks require some special tools to disassemble and anyone familiar with right side up forks might find these a challenge. I did a complete fork rebuild and installed fresh springs and Gold Valves in my ZRX five years ago and it was involved but relatively straightforward. It appears buying the correct tools would be at least a couple hundred bucks and since the labor for the gold valve and spring install is $225, I said screw it, I'll have someone I trust do it.

Blue

well, how did you make out with new springs?

Blue · « **Reply #9 on:** February 06, 2008, 07:46:14 PM »

Don't know, too cold to ride, and I am working (slowly) on a fender eliminator and I have brakelines, pads and clutchline to install.

Just rolling it around in the garage it feels better. The front end was extremely undersprung as equipped oem, just couldn't dial enough preload to even have it feel right pushing it around before.

It will probably take me a couple of weekends to dial it in, then I'll report. I'm very confident it will kick ass.

At least until the oem shock takes a dump...

Blue

EtrnlSoldier · « **Reply #10 on:** February 07, 2008, 02:40:38 AM »

Race tech springs and valves here also. Couldn't be happier.

mercenary · « **Reply #11 on:** February 10, 2008, 12:36:19 AM »

Quote from: EtrnlSoldier on February 07, 2008, 02:40:38 AM

Race tech springs and valves here also. Couldn't be happier.

Hi there i have already ordered mine too.But do you experience the fork damping is too hard and etc?With the springs and valves being installed?

EtrnlSoldier · « **Reply #12 on:** February 10, 2008, 12:38:01 AM »

Quote from: mercenary on February 10, 2008, 12:36:19 AM

Quote from: EtrnlSoldier on February 07, 2008, 02:40:38 AM
Race tech springs and valves here also. Couldn't be happier.

Hi there i have already ordered mine too.But do you experience the fork damping is too hard and etc?With the springs and valves being installed?

Nope. 200 percent better than stock.

mercenary · « **Reply #13 on:** February 10, 2008, 12:39:24 AM »

Quote from: EtrnlSoldier on February 10, 2008, 12:38:01 AM

Quote from: mercenary on February 10, 2008, 12:36:19 AM
Quote from: EtrnlSoldier on February 07, 2008, 02:40:38 AM
Race tech springs and valves here also. Couldn't be happier.

Hi there i have already ordered mine too.But do you experience the fork damping is too hard and etc?With the springs and valves being installed?

Nope. 200 percent better than stock.

Ok thanks for answer

Isalsa · « **Reply #14 on:** February 14, 2008, 12:12:20 AM »

Racetech springs and gold valves. I spend allot of time on the mountain with my Busa fighting off the new lighter and powerfull sport bikes. They keep saying how in the hell does that 1999 Busa turn as good our new stuff

omgang · « **Reply #15 on:** April 25, 2008, 11:14:41 PM »

Another option is GP Suspension in Milwaukie, OR. GP has CNC and make's valves and other components in house. Very convenient when I lived in Oregon. Now that I'm in Montana I UPS to them over the winter.
OM Gang

fasterbusa · « **Reply #16 on:** May 10, 2008, 10:34:53 PM »

I did like Blue did.
I sent my forks from my 99 Busa to Racetech and had them do the job. New Gold Valves, 1.1 springs, superslick oil and so on and it made a world of difference to my bike (right up until I highsided it several hundreds of miles later, crap!).

I sent my forks out to Cali to have them done at Racetech's home facility.
They were back in 1 wk, ready to install back on the bike.

The mechanic who did my fork work called me up, asked questions about my weight, riding style and so on and then went to work on the forks.
Nice people, great work.

mercenary · « **Reply #17 on:** May 11, 2008, 05:19:27 AM »

From my mechanic the stock fork springs is good enough,depending for what usage that is.For me is high speed touring.He says the setting must be correct.He is a qualified mechanic for Sportec M3 in my country for race track.The fork springs of course must be in good condition.After he did the full suspension set up for me it is great.

speedwhore · « **Reply #18 on:** August 12, 2008, 08:54:46 PM »

Had gp suspension do mine over the winter with a penske shock, it transformed the bike.

omgang · « **Reply #19 on:** August 13, 2008, 11:17:31 PM »

How much was the Penske shock? What all did you have GP do to the forks? I am planning on either a shock rebuild or a new shock over the winter (money being the factor).
OM Gang

Mechanax · « **Reply #20 on:** October 27, 2008, 06:24:49 AM »

Race tech gold valves would be sufficient enough.I have them now in my front fork and it works great.I dont think need to change the spring unless it softens already or damaged.

Steve@OrientExpress · « **Reply #21 on:** April 16, 2009, 02:58:37 PM »

Changing the spring is the critical part - especially if the rider is a normal US size.

speedwhore · « **Reply #22 on:** June 21, 2009, 09:20:19 PM »

The shock was around $800,and the forks were $500 including changing spring rate and altering both compression and rebound valves for
my weight and intended use. Gp suspension was the only outfit I found that addressed the compression valves and not just the rebound,
they machine their own compression valve. Really helps with the sharp edged bumps we get in the great white north (POTHOLES).

blackzook · « **Reply #23 on:** June 22, 2009, 07:59:51 AM »

Racetec resprung and valved front and back on mine and love it money well spent.

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Author Topic: Busa Front fork springs (Read 18881 times) Tweet