Let me clear up some misconceptions...
First - if you are not 100% comfortable working on your brakes, please PLEASE bring it to a shop and have them do it for you.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it likes to absorb moisture. It can suck moisture from the air, through regular rubber hoses, condesation air pockets, etc. The more moisture it absorbs, the lower the wet boiling point of the fluid (thus reducing its thermal capacity). Most brake fluids are rated for dry and wet boiling points. Dry is practically meaningless except for the first day after being installed (maybe). All non-silicone (non DOT 5.0) fluids are also very caustic and will ruin your paint and the finish on metal. Water is the best barrier - so I recommend a wet towel to protect to painted surfaces.
Bubbles are very hard to completely remove - I usually do a combo of mity vac and old fashioned manual bleeding, especially for new brake line installations. I don't use a pressure bleeder on bikes because the reservoir is too small and its easy to mess up and introduce air accidentally. YRMV. First, gently rap the caliper, fittings, brake lines, and banjo bolts from the bottom up with a small wrench like the 8 or 10mm one you have in your hand for the bleeder nipple. Then bleed a full reservoir of fluid (don't let the reservoir run dry and expose the feed port at the bottom to the air) through each caliper.
When cracking the bleeder nipple, I hold pressure on the brake lever, then gently crack the bleeder open only as far as needed for fluid to come out. Don't swing the bleeder open 360 degrees. You can also seal the threads around the bleeder with some wheel bearing or axle grease to prevent air from getting past where the threads go into the caliper.
It just takes time and patience, and probably the better part of a bottle of fluid for the front brakes.
Wrapping a zip tie around the front lever forces the air bubbles to come together and make a larger bubble which is easier to bleed out. The pressure in the system is working for you. Don't release the lever the next day, squeeze it, and then bleed both calipers.
Finally, make sure to use fresh crush washers - the suzuki ones are excellent - I prefer them to the replacement ones from most companies. Mkae sure the banjo bolts have the correct torque on them, but don't over torque. Air likes to accumulate at the fittings - both at the calipers and at the master cylinder. and also at the top of the pistons and at the bleeder nipples.
The last resort is to remove the calipers and most of the fluid from the master cylinder. Do not disconnect the calipers though, just unbolt them from teh forks. Then use a piece of wood to force the pistons back into the calipers. This is a cheap reverse bleed and will pust the fluid back up to the master cylinder and should bring all the air wil it. Make sure to clean the calipers first, you don't want to push nasty dirt past the seals and add contamination to the fluid or possibly damage the seals. Cleaning the calipers is whole new thread LOL.