TECHNICAL > MODS
How to Cut Down a Busa Tank
Scary-Jerry:
Let me make some quick comments 1st.
* An AirTech 'Glass tank is lighter and already done - But it needs to be sealed for Unleaded Glass to not eat the glass.
* NOTE: You will have to seal the steel tank as you will be welding it...
This is what I want - This is my Goal...
Tools Needed:
* Dremel with a Cut-Off Wheel
* Drill with appropriate Bit
* MIG Welder
* Basic mechanical knowledge
Step 1. Mark the Tank
NOTE: Do NOT Cut all the way around the Front. This will Keep the Tank centered.
Try to keep the basic Outlines: I wanted to remove the Bulge in the Back that keeps me from getting low.
I also wanted the small side Bulges removed – If you do, you can’t run a stock seat! Seat Pan required!!!
NOTE: I will explain how you can still use the Stock Seat later...
Now start drilling guide holes to outline where you will cut.
NOTE: Metal must be retained for overlap when welding (dotted Line, etc…).
Step 2. Cut that Tank
Next – Remove Filler Cap Neck (Round Metal Sleeve).
NOTE: I used a Dremel with a Cut-Off Wheel to fit and it cut it very nice.
Don’t worry if it falls in, you will be able to get it out later…
Here it is removed. This will allow you to lower the Tank’s Height by pushing the Top down. So cut it ALL off…
Cut the Tank – I used a Cut-Off Wheel again…
NOTE: DO NOT CUT THE FRONT – Just the corners – This will keep it Centered!
Note: In the above Pic, I discovered it would be easier to just remove the Side Panel and weld it back in.
Step 3. Shape that Tank
Just Push down in the Back. Look at the Gap created, this is where you will Sit now. So make it Flat!
As for the Vent Tubes in the Tank – DO NOT CUT THEM! They will bend and be fine…
NOTE: I was able to retain the Float Gauge too.
Note the above Pic of the Vent Tubes & Petcock Bowl: 2000 Tank.
Continue to shape the Tank by bending the Back to form a Seat Area.
FYI – Angle it downward more than I did as when it is mounted, it goes upward.
Finish Cutting, Shaping & Trimming.
NOTE: Make it Narrower in the Back than I did, and you can use a stock seat with it…
…and draw many Centerlines.
Step 4. Welding the Tank
NOTE: Go slow as to not warp the Tank.
FYI – Don’t worry about the welds nor making it Air Tight. You can always grind off the welds and you will be Sealing it anyways to prevent Rust.
NOTE: The MIG Welder I borrowed was Crap at a Public Craft Shop – I really can weld better…
Check your Symmetry often – Left side is lower…
Clean Your Welds now, as you can see, there was previous damage on the Left Side Top.
Step 5. Bondo that Tank!
Be liberal with the bondo, as you will remove 80-90% of it.
And then Prime it so you can block it out prier to giving it to your Painter.
You’re a cheap basterd, that is why you went to all this Trouble…
And now it has come back from the Painter…
Installed:
Any questions???
Good Luck! :wink:
sportbikeryder:
Looks Great!
What did you end up sealing it with? That white stuff for inside gas tanks?
John
Mike-Nightrider:
Very good job, Jerry.
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
I have seen the tank in reality, guys.
Looks fantastic.
How much fuel can you fill in after the modification?
Coryonbusa:
That looks really nice Jerry! Great job!
Scary-Jerry:
--- Quote from: sportbikeryder on July 23, 2008, 11:19:22 AM ---Looks Great!
What did you end up sealing it with? That white stuff for inside gas tanks?
John
--- End quote ---
I used an Acrylic Epoxy - Clear from a company in the Netherlands (Holland).
DO NOT USE KREEM to SEAL TANKS = SUCKS!!!
There are many good ones on the Internet, just google it and you will some nice stuff.
--- Quote from: Mike-Nightrider on July 23, 2008, 11:38:03 AM ---Very good job, Jerry.
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
I have seen the tank in reality, guys.
Looks fantastic.
How much fuel can you fill in after the modification?
--- End quote ---
I hold 12 liters, about 3 gallons now. :wink:
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