Author Topic: Project Hayabusa (Read 35575 times) Tweet

isiahstites · « **Reply #25 on:** June 13, 2009, 12:43:33 PM »

I didn't have time last month to post up the pics of the bike ready to go prior to the race. It was really hectic to get everything done and make it to the race on time. Here you can see I washed the bike, painted the megaphone, and finished the bike numbers and class designation.

I put the bike on the dyno to check A/F and it made a 160 hp.......once I get the ECU flash figured out I will go back and do some tuning. I am sure there are a few more hp in there somewhere.........I wish there was a way to simulate the ram air while on the dyno to see how the top end is at wide open throttle in sixth.

Going to the race tomorrow to try and get over 175 mph for my next license. I put a few extra teeth on the rear sprocket to help me get to my goal of 180mph. Stock the bike is geared for 198 mph (I believe) and coupled with me being a bigger than normal rider and no fairings I know the stock motor will not get me to those speeds in the dirt at that elevation. So I geared it down to about 185 +/-. I am hoping the track condition will better than last month, it was the worst track I have seen to date. It is suppose to be about 75-80 degrees so we should be making a little bit more power than last month.

Scott

gfast2 · « **Reply #26 on:** June 14, 2009, 03:07:44 PM »

.looking good!!!!

isiahstites · « **Reply #27 on:** February 01, 2010, 11:14:19 PM »

I haven't kept this updated to well, however I have had alot going on..........I plan on keeping this thread going. In the mena time if you want to catch up here is what I didn't post here.

http://www.labusas.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101628&page=4

isiahstites · « **Reply #28 on:** February 01, 2010, 11:17:37 PM »

After getting back from Bonneville I put the fairings on and ended up with a top speed of the year of 185 mph nad some change.

Here is what the bike looked like.

isiahstites · « **Reply #29 on:** February 01, 2010, 11:22:14 PM »

Here is my new bodywork for the Busa, this bodywork will be used in conjunction will the tube frame chassis.

I also bought a turbo set-up........

isiahstites · « **Reply #30 on:** February 01, 2010, 11:25:15 PM »

My tubing bender needs a stand!!

Here is the bottom mounting location, the smaller piece bolts to the top of your mount. I am going to build my own stand as I don't see the need nor do I have the money to spend for a $120 stand from JD2.

A 3"x3" piece of square tube will be used to get to the height of 40"

Cutting the square tube, this takes awhile to cut but the benefits are a square cut.

Square cut

I bought this red paint marker a month or so ago for this project. What a difference as my marks do not disappear from heat like they do with permanent marker and the red shows up even when sparks are flying. Where have you been all of my life?? Great thing about the marker is it will mark on almost all surfaces where as the permanent marker will not.

Here is my 9 x 9 mounting plate and my 3 1/2 x 7 top plate. I went a 1/2 inch over on the top plate so I would have a 1/4 on each side for welding. Also not the cut-off wheels, both were new before I started. One of them got away from me and yanked the grinder out of my hand and onto the floor. Good thing I had my gloves, faceshield and safety boots on. That 1/4 steel is not joke.

Here is the idea, the bender will mount to the top small piece and the base plate will be secured to the concrete floor via red heads.

I still have holes to drill in both pieces, welding and painting. Its small progress on a big project.

Scott

isiahstites · « **Reply #31 on:** February 01, 2010, 11:33:33 PM »

My tubing bender needs a stand!!

Here is the bottom mounting location, the smaller piece bolts to the top of your mount. I am going to build my own stand as I don't see the need nor do I have the money to spend for a $120 stand from JD2.

A 3"x3" piece of square tube will be used to get to the height of 40"

Cutting the square tube, this takes awhile to cut but the benefits are a square cut.

Square cut

I bought this red paint marker a month or so ago for this project. What a difference as my marks do not disappear from heat like they do with permanent marker and the red shows up even when sparks are flying. Where have you been all of my life?? Great thing about the marker is it will mark on almost all surfaces where as the permanent marker will not.

Here is my 9 x 9 mounting plate and my 3 1/2 x 7 top plate. I went a 1/2 inch over on the top plate so I would have a 1/4 on each side for welding. Also not the cut-off wheels, both were new before I started. One of them got away from me and yanked the grinder out of my hand and onto the floor. Good thing I had my gloves, faceshield and safety boots on. That 1/4 steel is not joke.

Here is the idea, the bender will mount to the top small piece and the base plate will be secured to the concrete floor via red heads.

I still have holes to drill in both pieces, welding and painting. Its small progress on a big project.

Scott

I used a fender wahser to mark all four corners of the base plate so they would all be the same.

I then marked the mounting plate.

Drilled some small pilot holes.

Then drilled the holes to 1/2 inch

Then to 13/16ths for the 3/4" bolts. The finger is for referenece of how large the drill bit is.......had to drill really slow with that bit.

I then grinded all of the rust and any contaments off down to bare metal for welding purposes.

I then tacked the mounting and base plates into place.

Final welding....man am I rusty I haven't welded in over a year.

The almost (need anchor bolts) tubing bender stand.

[IMG]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r98/isiahstites/2010%20Busa%20Build/100_5688.jpg[/IMG

isiahstites · « **Reply #32 on:** February 01, 2010, 11:33:39 PM »

I used a fender wahser to mark all four corners of the base plate so they would all be the same.

I then marked the mounting plate.

Drilled some small pilot holes.

Then drilled the holes to 1/2 inch

isiahstites · « **Reply #33 on:** February 01, 2010, 11:37:31 PM »

Then to 13/16ths for the 3/4" bolts. The finger is for referenece of how large the drill bit is.......had to drill really slow with that bit.

I then grinded all of the rust and any contaments off down to bare metal for welding purposes.

I then tacked the mounting and base plates into place.

Final welding....man am I rusty I haven't welded in over a year.

The almost (need anchor bolts) tubing bender stand.

isiahstites · « **Reply #34 on:** February 01, 2010, 11:40:49 PM »

Picked this set-up real cheap from a fellow club member and racer. This should help in the HP department!

isiahstites · « **Reply #35 on:** February 01, 2010, 11:52:23 PM »

These came in the mail a few weeks ago for my records at Bonneville. Bike was raced completely naked.

isiahstites · « **Reply #36 on:** February 05, 2010, 12:26:33 AM »

After work today I stopped at my friend Randy's shop and he helped me start to build my upright to hold the head stock for the frame. We used a 3/8s end mill for the slots and a large holesaw for the 4 bigger holes.

It is not finished, but this is how it will stand. The larger holes are for access to the back side of the slots.

The upright is 3x3 and the small piece at the bottom is 3.5x3.5

The 3.5x 3.5 piece we be used to determine the head angle and will slide up and down on the upright when I am finished.

First I need to cut it in half so I have to right angles and then make a few more cuts and drill a few holes.

isiahstites · « **Reply #37 on:** February 06, 2010, 02:38:23 PM »

Started to build the build table for the chassis

Frame work is done and on wheels

isiahstites · « **Reply #38 on:** February 06, 2010, 05:03:52 PM »

Here is the almost complete table. I am pretty beat from building this and being sick. I still need to add risers in the center of the table to keep it from sagging. The last bike I built on a table like this made the center sag. As the table sits it is level from left to right, however from front to back it is slightly off. I am not sure if it is the table or the floor and I didn't check as I plan on using screw jacks at each end of the table to completely level everything prior to building.

Here is the unfinished upright for the head stock with the motor in place. I will finish the upright later.

isiahstites · « **Reply #39 on:** February 07, 2010, 05:20:29 PM »

I made it out to the garage today, which I did not think would happen as I have been pretty dam sick for a week. Also got in a little O.T. at work today, got a phone call on my way to the store to pick up some cough drops and I was close so I went in and did a 20 minute inspection/repair and got two hours of O.T.

Here is the tool of choice today.......oh, and I cut the square tube in half.

This is for 6, I used my silver pencil......the red marker shit on me today.......I makred the portion of the now angle iron to be cut away.

After I finished my cut I had to find the center of the piece for the head stock to mount to.......it needs to be center as the table will have a center line that this will have to match. The entire build will be based off of the center line. I used the 2x4's just a reference point and the reflection of the lazer for the picture.

A hole will be drilled where the lines intersect and the head stock will be mounted at the location. I still need to machine the head and the centering cones.

Here it is on the table with the base plate, which I still need to build.

In case anyone was wondering here are what the four holes in the back of the upright are for.

Changed tools as I ran out of the other.

isiahstites · « **Reply #40 on:** February 13, 2010, 09:06:05 PM »

I cut this plate out and drilled the holes so it could me mounted to any table. I then marked a 3 x 3 square in the center so I could weld the upright in place.

Here is the upright with the plate welded on and ready for mounting.

After I finished the welding I cut the other half of the square tube that will be used for the head stock to mount so that it could mount the same but higher up.

It's job will be to hold a laser pointer that will project a straight line down the center of the table through the neck and the rear axle to ensure the chassis is straight. I mounted a larger laser I have for the picture, I will order a smaller one that will mount to the fixture.

isiahstites · « **Reply #41 on:** March 28, 2010, 01:10:04 AM »

I have been really busy lately and have not had much time to work on this project. I have been working on other peoples bikes lately to make some extra cash for this project. I finally sold and shipped my CBR and on Monday I bought a Hayabusa for a commuter. I hope things settle down in the coming weeks so I can make some progress on this project.

Here is the neck that will used.

I did some work for a friend and he gave this harness and practically everything else I will need to wire the new bike. This was huge! My current harness gave me nothing but trouble at the Mojave Mile due to all of the corrosion from the bike being raced at Bonneville.

Huggybear · « **Reply #42 on:** April 02, 2010, 04:19:53 PM »

New harness sweet !!!

isiahstites · « **Reply #43 on:** April 17, 2010, 11:22:41 AM »

Put the bike up on the stand. After I tear her down I need to add the center supports to the table to ensure it does not bow during the build process as I need the table to be as flat as possible.