Flashed my first ECU today (pics inside)

[smithabusa]

its a 4pdt toggle switch, on-off-on

Mouser has them for $9, check out the mod section Petrik has all parts needed, i am just trying to make it a little more plug and play for those who dont like to solder LOL

www.pcb123.com is the program, works pretty nice, ordered them today should get them on friday.

Assuming these work i have no problem selling the printed circuit board if you still want to do it yourself etc.

Greg

[oberon]

Thanks, I want to buy a fully assembled one from you.

I was wondering if I could incorporate both switches. That would give me less places to leak...

I haven't been into electronics for over 20 years, (In Information Technology now) and I'm having to relearn. 

I'm thinking of casting the PCB into non conductive, dampening resin with a structural plate on two sides.

Cast that into a rubber case and happy, happy, joy, joy!

The case will be made in two castings to allow voids for the switch movement. Not repairable if it craps out but, it should be tough as hell.

The more I think about this, the longer I think it will take! Crap!   

Still sounds like fun though...

[smithabusa]

both switches?

[oberon]

In the drawing there is a momentary switch in addition to the dpdt. (reset) Is that right?

[smithabusa]

On one end is where the wires from usb cable come in, and the 4pdt switch

In the middle are leds

On the other end is just a 6 pin molex connector pc mount

Then you wire the 6 wire harness and plug it in, if that makes sense

[PetriK]

In the drawing there is a momentary switch in addition to the dpdt. (reset) Is that right?

You dont need reset - turning bike power off and back on is the same effect. I generally prefer the reset not being installed in case some accidentially presses reset button in a middle of dynoing process. In the picture there is two other switches which in usb design is combined into one on-off-on switch.

[oberon]

Even better.

Thank you both!

[oberon]

I've been looking at a schematic I found on another site. I guess it's an older one. I've been over thinking this...

[smithabusa]

Petril really has made this a piece of cake

I just know a lot more people would go for it if they didn't have to turn on a soldering iron lol

[PetriK]

Luckily things have moved rapidly forward from those early days. The design from smithabusa looks very neat and is propably also very durable for harsh conditions. As it even has a connector for taking it off the bike dont know if any rubber molding is needed.

Btw this is the initial design published for max232 someone in finland initially found on a japanise web site when we were learning about sh7052 flashing:

Based on that I then made first succesfull reflash of an ecu almost an year ago and published this graph on programming interface.

Anyhow we disregarded that one because it does not support engine data and replaced. E.g. the VCC line on that picture has since generated a lot of problems as we dont want to use it for USB device.

This is what renesas i.e. the ecu processor manufacturer originally has published. Took a good few evenings to find this on their web site. This had the rst on it, but after implementing one soon come to realize that its really never needed.

[smithabusa]

Just think what will be available another year from now

My thoughts on this would be leave the short harness on the bike, and only put the box on when u need to retune

Don't know about you guys but real estate is always an issue

[oberon]

Based on your PCB Smithbusa, it should get them there.  

The programming / tuning side looks kind of scary to me though. I think I'll be bothering you guy alot!  

Yes I've found that drawing, and a few others.


I grock it now!  

[YAG]

Just think what will be available another year from now

My thoughts on this would be leave the short harness on the bike, and only put the box on when u need to retune

Don't know about you guys but real estate is always an issue

I'm a fan of just repining the yosh box connector... not going to be used with a yosh box again, and keeps the wiring harness as stock as possible.

[smithabusa]

Just think what will be available another year from now

My thoughts on this would be leave the short harness on the bike, and only put the box on when u need to retune

Don't know about you guys but real estate is always an issue

I'm a fan of just repining the yosh box connector... not going to be used with a yosh box again, and keeps the wiring harness as stock as possible.

are you doing gauge data or just reflashing?

[PetriK]

Yoshbox is gonna be difficult for most of the users with all the rewiring including cutting one wire for gaugedata. I really prefer the smithabusas plain and simple (plug and play) solution for anyone who does not enjoy playing with a soldering iron. For us more technically minded some preinformation - when the boost pressure sensor, boost & nitrous solenoid control and some other ecu updates come avail (hopefully) the using the yoshbox is not necessarily going to work for you anymore. (Well of course one can always go and cut more wires and rewire the stuff but it may get complicated.)

[YAG]

I don't need gauge data, just reflashing... wouldn't be hard to add gauge data to the yosh connector.

If it comes to the point that more is needed then going another connection route would be fine, but for now swapping a couple ecu pins and plugging into a stock connector is fine.

[PetriK]

I don't need gauge data, just reflashing...

Yes, its everyones personal choise. Without gauge data you loose the ability to check that the vacuum sensor is working, the ambient temperature sensor is good, the gear position sensor is ok, checking some of the error codes, etc. Gauge data is also in practise needed for a dyno.

One can always try to make a shortcut - but at the end its cheaper and easier to use the smithabusa method. A couple of persons here have tried the rewiring the yoshbox and it both ended up into a lot of support calls until they decided to cut the wires. One of the reasons I did not publish this information erlier into wider use was that I was not capable of taking a lot of phonecalls about making the diy interfaces work. Now with smithabusas work we can take this to the next level and minimize support needs. (And let me also announce that I dont have any kind of commercial arrangement betweeen Greg and myself, I am just very pleased for Greg donating some money to DaveOs fund for each cable he sells.)

Oh - that rememinds me that with the amount of users from USA we really need to start to give a choise of using fahrenheits too on the gaugedata.

But like said - everyone chooses his/her way with this kind of open source stuff. The instructions are there for anyone to build what ever kind of interfaces one wants to with some skills and dedication...

[PetriK]

Based on your PCB Smithbusa, it should get them there.  

The programming / tuning side looks kind of scary to me though. I think I'll be bothering you guy alot!  

Yes I've found that drawing, and a few others.

Dont worry - we will put you guys into intensive care department when the smithabusa cables arrives. During this summer we have had some professional software testers involved into getting ECUeditor where it is now so we may invite them to support you guys too.

[oberon]

  Sweet!

If you or Smithabusa ever need computer support or help, let me know.

It's what I do for a living...

[Stocker64]

i will offer my help to whoever needs it,i am familar with ecueditor,greg good looking stuff you have there.Petrik,i need to talk to you soon,back from vacation,parts that were needed where here when i got back.

[PetriK]

i will offer my help to whoever needs it,i am familar with ecueditor,greg good looking stuff you have there.Petrik,i need to talk to you soon,back from vacation,parts that were needed where here when i got back.

Had a good vacation ? Hows the family, they enjoyed it too ?

Just drop me an email / pm you know...

[smithabusa]

PetriK....how about that shift light

Plug and play, it took me under 5 minutes to install it and re-flash the ECU for it to come on at 10,800 RPM, limiter at 11,500 actual I think, man thats a long way to rev LOL

I unplugged the flapper valve, and got power and the input for the LED right there using 2 male spade connectors, works perfect, and cheap too!

Damn that skipping 2nd gear, trans is coming out very very soon 

www.boostbysmith.com/Videos/eculight.wmv

[Stocker64]

i will offer my help to whoever needs it,i am familar with ecueditor,greg good looking stuff you have there.Petrik,i need to talk to you soon,back from vacation,parts that were needed where here when i got back.

Had a good vacation ? Hows the family, they enjoyed it too ?

Just drop me an email / pm you know...

,VERY RELAXING GIVING ME GOOD TIME FOR NEW IDEAS AND PLANS.I WILL SOON RIGHT NOW OFF TO THE TRACK TO TUNE ON A 250HP 06 1000 ON SPRAY.

[conrad]

I don't need gauge data, just reflashing... wouldn't be hard to add gauge data to the yosh connector.

If it comes to the point that more is needed then going another connection route would be fine, but for now swapping a couple ecu pins and plugging into a stock connector is fine.

I went the yosh connector route also for my personal bike and like you say it is nice to have gauge and program ability through the single stock connector.  I just had to run one new wire to the connector for the ground (Pin 54).  There are enough left after that for the remaining programming and gauge data connections.

The colors on my plug didn't match the diagram though so I would agree, that wouldn't be the practical method for someone not comfortable with wiring, but will be nice and quick to connect the bike to without removing even the seat.

[smithabusa]

Working on plug and play ecu connectors so no wiring, but at the moment it would add like 100 bucks as the only source I've found so far is super expensive