The Brick Wall; Would A Gearing Change Help?

[Redliner04]

You know that point when you seem to have come up against a brick wall; not being able to improve. Well; I’m there, or so it would seem. I know the bike has limitations, but not as much as I, the rider, am putting on it. Yes, seat time is the ONLY way to improve as a rider, but at the same time I need to know that the bike itself is setup to be all that it can be.

If this post is redundant, stupid of “worthless” please let me know and I will delete it. At the same time I would greatly appreciate any help that you guys can offer.
 
This post is about gearing; everyone can give their opinions about needing a different exhaust, telling me to go turbo or nitrous, so forth and so on; that’s not what I’m after. I’m looking to have this bike setup, as is, so that it can perform to the best of its ability.

Here are the Bike specs:

2005 Busa:
•   Gearing 17/43
•   Extended/Under braced Arm (6” over)
•   EKZZZ 530 Chain
•   Shinko U-Soft Rear/ Stock Front
•   Shock settings at 0 rebound and full compression (I believe I said that right)
•   Cut/Lowered Seat
•   Double Bubble Screen
•   Stock 2005 Motor
•   HMF Big Bird Exhaust
•   Small Air-box Mod
•   All Short Stacks
•   Ram-Air Tube Seals
•   BMC Street Air-Filter
•   Power Commander III USB (Quasar Map)
•   Cycle-Tek Shifter

I weigh 220lbs in shorts, and am 6’5” tall.

As I said, I seem to be stuck at a wall.

Here is my time slip information.
60’    1.747
330’    4.319
1/8   6.404
MPH    117.80
1000’    8.216
1/4   9.763
MPH   145.39

Again, seat time does a lot, but there still seems to be something missing. I am launching the bike at 5,500 RPM’s, and yes my 60’ is sad.  The bike does not have a traction issue yet. Shift-light comes on at 10,800 I run through the traps at the top of 4th gear and the shift light blinks at or just beyond the traps. 

So, any ideas on gearing?
   Would a gear change help, something like a 16/42 just for more lower end?

Just wanted to throw it out there and see what you all think. If it just means more seat time that’s fine, but if there’s a change I need to make then by all means let me know. 

Greatly Appreciated!!
 

[Mospeada]

Your mph is good, so your making good power.

That 60 foot is killing you.

The first thing I would do is maybe go back to stock velocity stacks. I would not recommend all short unless you have cams or motorwork or something.

You got less torque, and you are a heavier riding, your bike must be bogging at the line. Launching at a 'medium' rpm. I would....

First, go to stock velocity stacks

Second, with that arm, I would try 5-6 up in the back

Third, drop tire pressure to 12 psi (what is your tire pressure?), and start slowly raising rpm launch until you spin or wheelie, then back off 500 rpm. *Make sure you are WOT before you pass the tree, with the the clutch all the way out..*

Try out the above, one at a time, and test. Log any gains.

[Redliner04]

Thank you for your reply.

My tire pressure is usually right about 18psi.
When you say up 5-6 in the rear your talking about a 45-46 tooth correct?

As for the stacks I will certainly try it with/without. My father just put all shorts on his stock busa and he noticed a difference down low. It's worth a shot though; something I will look into.

Thanks again for your input

[Fastbusa-1]

I have about the same mods as you only my bike is stock W/B. I am about 165 and your mph is a lot higher than mine 141, however, my sixty 60 is somewhere around 1.55 or 1.61 depends on good or ok launch, I almost always run 9.7's but have ran 9.6's in Valdosta. Not to sure with your weight what the bike will do but I'm sure if you get that 60'ft around the 1.5's you will then be maxed out..At least thats my 2cents..Hope I helped

[Mospeada]

Yes, with that type of extension, you're not geared enough. With the wieght of the Shinko, and the extra chain weight, and a stock motor with a Big Bird, you are certainly not making much power down low. Up top yes, but down low is where you're launching.

45-46 rear, or maybe also a 16 front to add to  your 43 rear.

Add the stacks, lower tire pressure to about 12....raise rpm slowly until you either spin or wheelie.

Or, you can also just lower the tire pressure, and keep raising the rpm. 5500 is not enough for your combo....be very careful. You need to get it deep into the torque band.

[Redliner04]

Great Guys, much apprecaited

I'll give the lower pressure/higher launch RPM a try first off, then go from there I guess.

[wcchampion44]

I would try 16-43 gearing at your weight it will help you 60' alot better. I was 245lbs at 63" with 16-45 and had 1.50-1.54 60's stock motor try it and I think you will be pleased.

[Kruzer]

I am about the same set up and size.

I run 1.52 to 1.60 60's, not great, but run that with 16/45 and able to get out of the hole pretty well, still trying to get into the 1.4s but that's probably all me and not the bike.

Just my  .02

Take care
Matt

[XXORCIST]

16/45......next! i ran 1.42-1.46 @ 6 over arm,@245lbs. 8.10's 1/8 and 9.40-9.50's all day g/l

[BandR]

16/45......next! i ran 1.42-1.46 @ 6 over arm,@245lbs. 8.10's 1/8 and 9.40-9.50's all day g/l

damn, 8.10 in the 1/8 and still run a 9.40-50 in the 1/4. that thing comes on hard on the back half.

[XXORCIST]

16/45......next! i ran 1.42-1.46 @ 6 over arm,@245lbs. 8.10's 1/8 and 9.40-9.50's all day g/l

damn, 8.10 in the 1/8 and still run a 9.40-50 in the 1/4. that thing comes on hard on the back half.

lolol 6.10 my bad! lol eddie play nice!

[BATTMAN]

i would go back to stock stack in the airbox.  Then I would go to a 16 front sprocket.  You can also experiment with different maps.  You ahve a map from quasar so thats probbly the best map youre going to get.  You can also play with your suspension too.  dont forget the basics like keeping your chest on the tank and tucking.  Get someone to video tape you so that you can see what you are doing throughout the run.

[fastone]

start playing with the gearing and leave with the rpm as high as you can without spinning the tire. Try to raise your air pressure until the bike starts to spin then go back down to raise the mph and get a little more roll out