Author Topic: NOS Big Backfires (Read 18798 times) Tweet

badass1000 · « **Reply #25 on:** June 03, 2009, 10:57:27 AM »

yes, but also like you said while I was typeing my last post. If it was the jet spread it would affect all cylinders.
I highly recomend putting a wide band on any nitrous bike or atleast getting a dyno tune before useing it. I have always hade a dyno tune or wide band on all of my modded bikes. It cost a little more up front, but it will save you alot of time and money in the long run.

altiki · « **Reply #26 on:** June 03, 2009, 11:07:47 AM »

Got a WEGO I will down load this evening and let you know what I found I have been just to busy to even work on it.

altiki · « **Reply #27 on:** June 03, 2009, 06:11:36 PM »

You are spraying two stages, 80 first, then up to 120 and you are only running 8.85@165?
Don;t take this the wrong way, but it seems you may be having more issues than just the backfiring.
What are your motor specs?
Are you spraying 80 HP dry and hen adding 120 HP wet on top of that?

[/quote]
You were right there were more things wrong then suspected. I have a spun bearing which would account for the less than desired results. I drained the oil awhile back but no evidence but the oil filter was full. Should have checked it on the last problem!!!!

But the big problem is the piston is melted at the ring lands. I definitely went lean on just that one cylinder and I checked the nozzle and it was ok. because I dropped the motor and plastics I will have to wait to down load the wego. This just happens to be the same piston that was hit by the valve and I am thinking it was damaged but not evident.

altiki · « **Reply #28 on:** June 03, 2009, 06:19:52 PM »

Nick, I did check the nozzle it is OK. I would like to talk to you off line some time. PM me if you get a chance. Thanks

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #29 on:** June 03, 2009, 07:23:35 PM »

Quote from: altiki on June 03, 2009, 06:19:52 PM

Nick, I did check the nozzle it is OK. I would like to talk to you off line some time. PM me if you get a chance. Thanks

I emailed you my number

sportbikeryder · « **Reply #30 on:** June 03, 2009, 07:27:33 PM »

Did you put ina new valve and check the guide when the valve hit the piston? May have been leaking a bit through the exhaust.

Was the spun bearing on the same cylinder (may have damages the rod bearing when impacted)

altiki · « **Reply #31 on:** June 03, 2009, 07:41:28 PM »

I put a new head on it but I don't know about the location of the bearing just yet. I started drinking!!!!!!!! That wlll have to wait for tomorrow.

sportbikeryder · « **Reply #32 on:** June 03, 2009, 07:42:51 PM »

Quote from: altiki on June 03, 2009, 07:41:28 PM

I started drinking!!!!!!!!

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #33 on:** June 03, 2009, 08:02:11 PM »

Quote from: altiki on June 03, 2009, 07:41:28 PM

I put a new head on it but I don't know about the location of the bearing just yet. I started drinking!!!!!!!! That wlll have to wait for tomorrow.

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #34 on:** June 03, 2009, 08:04:32 PM »

The Detonation from the melting piston could have caused the spun bearing and not the other way around. If the bearing spun first the cylinder walls and the skirts would be scuffs but the piston probably would not be melted.

altiki · « **Reply #35 on:** June 03, 2009, 08:43:16 PM »

The cylinder is definitely trashed I really beelive the bearing was going south before the melt down I will definitely call you tomorrow if that is cool?

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #36 on:** June 03, 2009, 09:22:38 PM »

altiki · « **Reply #37 on:** June 04, 2009, 08:26:18 PM »

Tore the bike apart and I did not find any major problems with the bearings but I did notice they are wore at the gap areas and not at the bottoms or tops where you think they would be. Spoke with Marc and I think he is right the addition of the ape studs are clamping the blocks so tight they squishing the areas at the block separations. Any one else heard of this? I also noticed the crank was not spinning freely.

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #38 on:** June 04, 2009, 08:39:16 PM »

Place the crank in one portion of the cases and spin it. If it does spin easily then it is probably bent.

altiki · « **Reply #39 on:** June 04, 2009, 08:50:47 PM »

I will give that a shot but if it was bent wouldn't it trash the entire bearing not just the areas at the separation on every bearing. Some of the bearings although not trashed appear to be flatten in those areas. I also noticed it is toward the front of the block.

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #40 on:** June 05, 2009, 08:28:57 AM »

Quote from: altiki on June 04, 2009, 08:50:47 PM

I will give that a shot but if it was bent wouldn't it trash the entire bearing not just the areas at the separation on every bearing. Some of the bearings although not trashed appear to be flatten in those areas. I also noticed it is toward the front of the block.

No,I have seen it before with a slightly bent crank. It is just something to check

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #41 on:** June 06, 2009, 01:44:18 PM »

How is the bottom of your ehaust? Are any of the tubes flat from being too low?

altiki · « **Reply #42 on:** June 06, 2009, 03:37:48 PM »

No I have a side winder it doesn't touch. The piston that had the melt down also was my spun bearing that I have been looking for. My guess is that when I dropped the valve it spun the bearing and bent the crank. The weird part was there was only a small out line on the piston from the valve not even en-dented. Nick, do you do tuning?

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #43 on:** June 06, 2009, 03:59:50 PM »

I used to,not anymore. I sold my dyno to a friend that moved to North Georgia. So you did find that the crank was slightly bent?

altiki · « **Reply #44 on:** June 06, 2009, 04:16:14 PM »

I put a magnetic base and gauge on it but I really cant see anything wrong even the bearings are not showing major issues I am just going to build my other block and crank just in case. The spun bearing was on the rod and crank. The rod looks fine. I am wondering if I didn't cause all of this when I first built the bike and I couldn't get the oil to pick up. I felt it was way to long before I got oil to it.

If anyone else reads this just loosen the oil filter a little until it starts to pump, this would have came in handy maybe I wouldn't be where I am now.

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #45 on:** June 06, 2009, 05:04:38 PM »

You can also pre oil the motor. During your build install the inner and outer clutch baskets last. Remove the water pump cover and spin the water pump with a drill. I also leave off the valve cover to see when oil is al the top of the motor. Some guys pack the oil pump with vasoline. What assembly lube do you use?

altiki · « **Reply #46 on:** June 06, 2009, 07:22:56 PM »

I use to build car engines so I use the red engine lube. I don't remember the name but it is like honey and super sticky.

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #47 on:** June 07, 2009, 05:32:58 AM »

Red line make a great assembly lube and so does Permatex.

altiki · « **Reply #48 on:** June 07, 2009, 07:45:42 AM »

Good call, it is the Permatex Ultra slick.

Have you ever installed any Falicon H beams? Some of the manufactures tell you if they are a 1 or a 2 for the bearings but the falicons were not marked so I had to mic them and they appear to fall into the 1 category. I was just wandering if you have ever installed any?

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #49 on:** June 08, 2009, 07:08:04 AM »

Yes I installed a set of Falicon Knife edge rods in a 01 GSXR 1000. So far that are doing ok but I always check the rod bores and crank journals for roundness.

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Author Topic: NOS Big Backfires (Read 18798 times) Tweet