Mobil 1 15W50 Oil in 08 Hayabusa

[Shortstuf92]

 I was in Walmart today and see they have Mobil 1 15W50 oil for about $22.00 for a 5 quart jug and was wondering if it would be a good oil for my 08 Hayabusa? First I know it's not the motorcycle specific oil, it's not a energy conserving oil so there should be no clutch sliipping problems, it more  that meets the API ratings  SM/SL. And it's less than half the price motorcycle specfic oil so I can change the oil twice as often for the same cost. And I  was thinking that the 50 weight should hold up better to  the transmisssion shearing effect. I know a quite a few people that run 15W40 Diesel oils in there bikes and swear by them. I was thinking this would be one better yet. Just a thought.  :hys:Thanks for you input in advance.

[BATTMAN]

I have always run 15/50 mobil in my bikes.  Im surprised you found it at walmart.  they usually dont carry it.

[TurboGen2]

Im running 20w-50 in my turbo 08 and havent had a problem with it since i started using it last year. using the suzuki 20w-50 which i got at the suzuki dealer for $3.89 a quart.

[Rocketgeezer]

At that price, I'd buy 4 or 5 jugs

[Bently1]

Why buy 4 or 5 jugs it's always that price at my walmart

[Rocketgeezer]

Why buy 4 or 5 jugs it's always that price at my walmart

Because once thy realize they are much cheaper than every body else they raise the price

[DWB]

They just lowered the price to 22.  I use 5-20 and all the Mobil-1 is energy conserving that I'm aware of.

[Rocketgeezer]

They just lowered the price to 22.  I use 5-20 and all the Mobil-1 is energy conserving that I'm aware of.

You use 5-20 ? I don't think I'd be comfortable with something that thin unless you were in alaska or some place like that which is super cold all the time

[DWB]

They just lowered the price to 22.  I use 5-20 and all the Mobil-1 is energy conserving that I'm aware of.

You use 5-20 ? I don't think I'd be comfortable with something that thin unless you were in alaska or some place like that which is super cold all the time

Why not?  Brock pimps the "less than 0 weight" stuff.  I've always read/heard that viscosity isn't the functional characteristic of a thin oil film.  When your engine is under load you're going to squeeze the film down to a few molecules no matter the viscosity.  As long as the engine is tight enough that oil pressure doesn't go away you know everything is getting oil to it.

[jettscott]

As I understand it, the only number that matters much is the 20/30/40/50 at the end.  The 5/10/20W at the beginning is a measure of flow at a certain cold temp.  20W50 in a turbo bike I can understand, but in a N/A bike, I just don't get it.  I ran 5W30 in a stroker MX bike and never had problems... and that thing saw W.O.T. for 6-10 min per moto.  To me, a full synthetic designed by a major company for wet clutch bikes in something like a 5W20 or 10W30 is about perfect.

But, that's just my opinion.

[Rocketgeezer]

I know a lot of people smarter than me have put a lot of research into oil, and everybodys certainly entitled to there opinion, but 0-30 5-20 5-30 and all the light oil has the consistency of hot piss, and right or wrong I have run 15-50 and 20-50 for years with no oil trouble, and Brock does tout the 0-20 oil in his dragbikes for a handful of passes at the track for a day

[jettscott]

I know a lot of people smarter than me have put a lot of research into oil, and everybodys certainly entitled to there opinion, but 0-30 5-20 5-30 and all the light oil has the consistency of hot piss, and right or wrong I have run 15-50 and 20-50 for years with no oil trouble, and Brock does tout the 0-20 oil in his dragbikes for a handful of passes at the track for a day

You tested the consistency of hot piss vs 20/30 wt oil?   

Just messing with you...

[Rocketgeezer]

I know a lot of people smarter than me have put a lot of research into oil, and everybodys certainly entitled to there opinion, but 0-30 5-20 5-30 and all the light oil has the consistency of hot piss, and right or wrong I have run 15-50 and 20-50 for years with no oil trouble, and Brock does tout the 0-20 oil in his dragbikes for a handful of passes at the track for a day

You tested the consistency of hot piss vs 20/30 wt oil?   

Just messing with you...

Thats cool, but did you provide the sample 

[Scott123007]

To answer the issue about all Mobile synthetics being "Energy Conserving", the maximum weight that energy conserving oil can be is 30 wt., so no, all Mobile synthetics are not energy conserving. Near as I can tell, Brock's forte is drag racing, not engine longevity. Whatever can get you through the 1/4 mile with the least frictional drag and keep the engine from blowing up is ideal for drag racers, but I can assure you THE PEOPLE THAT BUILD THESE BIKES KNOW WHAT THE FUCK OIL SHOULD GO IN THEM PER THEIR DESIGN CRITERIA so I would go on their recomendation, not a guy that thinks it is hard on your cam chain to roll off your throttle without pulling in your clutch! LOL.

[DWB]

It doesn't bother me to put over 20 passes on the bike on any given Friday night with 5-20 oil.  Lots of back to back runs, etc.  I have no complaints.  The oil the factory recommends is the oil they life test with which doesn't mean it's the best.  I see no reason to run 15-50 in a Busa but to each their own.  The "best" oil has been debated many times and likely won't be resolved in our lifetime.

This is from Brock's website:

The design of this high strength synthetic oil is for High Performance Racing, to extend the life of your engine by reducing friction, oil temperature, rust and corrosion. This is by far the most used oil in AMA Prostar 600 Supersport competition! We use this oil in Street and Race applications of 180 RWHP and less. During our initial StreetSmart Exhaust testing, we submitted our Alisyn <<0 (That is Less than Zero!) weight equipped test Hayabusa to over 200 Dyno pulls and numerous map sessions.. until the exhaust system glowed RED! That was in the spring of 2000, the bike is still running today.(As strong as ever!)

[Rocketgeezer]

One thing for sure I don't think I'l get any stuff about, it would be cool to have a dollar for every oil post that be on this sight ......and DWB you speak the truth,......TO EACH HIS OWN......and........THE OIL DEBATE WILL NEVER EVER BE SETTlED......

[jettscott]

 I see no reason to run 15-50 in a Busa but to each their own.  The "best" oil has been debated many times and likely won't be resolved in our lifetime.

Maybe if it's smoking a little and you're trying to hide it... 

I'd agree that this is one of the most debated topics.  The key is, buy good oil, buy good filters, change it on time.  I'd even go so far as to say get some oil filter magnets and if you're the curious type, cut the filter open after changing and see whats stuck to that side.  Letting the bike reach operating temp at idle is something that I do every ride.  That doesn't seem like much, but  I know a few who start it, and immediatly start running it hard, most of their bikes smoke a little now.  I'm a firm believer in running at operating temp in anything.

[ACE23]

I'm sure it would be fine. Im pretty damn sure that if you run 4 to 4 and half quarts of any oil in your bike that it will do just fine. I currently am running 20-50 in my turbo bike and am going to change it and the filter every 1K miles. I personally would rather use normal oil and change it every 1K miles than run synthetic and change it every 2K. On my old N/A bike i ran Castrol 10-40 all year around and put around 12K miles on it with no problems.

[Black-n-Blusa]

Husqvarna calls for AGIP 10W60 in the new four stroke dirt bikes (we own a TE310 and a TE510).  The only things stateside that use this are the BMW M series cars.  We run the Mobil 1 15W50 in the Huskys for availability's sake and so far so good.  For the Busa, I tend to stick with the prescribed viscosity of 10W40 but a 15W50 would not be such a bad thing either (at least in Summer).