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Offline ICEMAN

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most you could spray a stock busa motor
« on: October 16, 2009, 05:43:28 PM »
going to put a stock motor together with a little head work. whats the most you could spray on a stock motor
« Last Edit: October 19, 2009, 07:44:35 PM by ICEMAN »

Offline jblankenship

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #1 on: October 16, 2009, 10:51:08 PM »
there is only one guy that I listen to and tunes every bike I build and he told me he has been putting 40 jets in them for years. I'm actually running 2 intake cams, drop in je's, hd valve springs, and head studs, stock base gasket, stock thickness head gasket. Bike made 182 motor and 225 on pill(30% load on dyno). So on stock motor you should see 200-205 easy. I was spraying a 36 jet on my stock motor and went 8.87.

Offline leathalbusa

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2009, 07:55:08 PM »
I'm running a 38 jet and having no problems. Upgrade your fuel pressure and you are laughing.....

Offline ICEMAN

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #3 on: October 19, 2009, 07:40:49 PM »
what i was going to do is get a little head work, port polish, springs, 2 intake cams, back cut trans and 5 mil strock, no more or no less. i havent decide about clutch set up but this is going to be a every day riding bike. just want to see a good number on it.

Offline ICEMAN

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #4 on: October 19, 2009, 07:44:08 PM »
I'm running a 38 jet and having no problems. Upgrade your fuel pressure and you are laughing.....
i would need a external fuel pump for that right? im not looking to go that far. i have a buddy on a zx14 thats kiick azz with no head  work and just spray and would run 8.90 easy.he has 2 shots though

Offline leathalbusa

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #5 on: October 19, 2009, 09:24:15 PM »
Well I'm running an 06 model and still using the stock pump and a "squeezed" regulator. Upping the pressure to close to 58 psi. I think or 55 psi. I am also using a SAE billet fuel rail and an ecu editor flash With a boost by smith nitrous controller and one of gregs maps.

Offline sportbikeryder

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #6 on: October 19, 2009, 09:38:29 PM »
If you are going to spray a 5 mil ported head motor, you will need more fuel pump and injector than stock. Upping pressure alone won't cut it.
Any day on a motorcycle like this that ends just needing parts and labor is a good day.
4.82, 158.67mph 1/8th mile 7.350, 200.32mph 1/4 mile Riding

4.392, 176.79mph 1/8th mile  6.610, 228.15mph 1/4 mile Tuning

Offline TrackRat

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #7 on: October 19, 2009, 09:51:48 PM »
I'm running a 38 jet and having no problems. Upgrade your fuel pressure and you are laughing.....
i would need a external fuel pump for that right? im not looking to go that far. i have a buddy on a zx14 thats kiick azz with no head  work and just spray and would run 8.90 easy.he has 2 shots though

Your gonna need at least a set of 310cc injectors and a good 255lph pump with a 5mil, head work and NOS. maybe even more injector depends on how much you spray :thumb:


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Offline ICEMAN

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #8 on: October 20, 2009, 09:43:10 PM »
i have a set of 42 pound injectors would that be good enough?

Offline Patterson

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #9 on: October 21, 2009, 08:11:41 PM »
i have a 40 shot on mine. it is STOCK as far as motor and fuel. it was tuned with ecu flashing. it put out 205hp extended, ZZZ chain and a 190 shinko. ran a best of 8.99 and i can't ride  :lol:

Offline BATTMAN

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #10 on: October 22, 2009, 12:06:32 PM »
i ran a 50 shot on mine with a stock motor.  You can actually run a 60 shot on it with a dead on tune.

Offline ICEMAN

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #11 on: October 24, 2009, 08:30:04 AM »
no one said if 42 pound injectors were go or not. this is my first time ever messing with nos and i want to make sure i got every thing right so i could just do it one time. ive been told by marine cranks that a 5 mil strock is ok to ride on the street and im sure a different map has to go in it as well.i also got this chart to help me out.
http://www.schnitzracing.com/technical_corner.htm
Schnitz Racing Dry Nitrous Jetting and Recommendation Chart
 
*For Fuel Injected 4 Cylinder Motorcycles (one injector per cylinder) with Single Nitrous Jet.
 
Nitrous Jet Horsepower gain 600cc 750cc 1000cc 1300+cc Fuel % increase
14 6hp Stock Stock Stock Stock 3%
16 9hp Stock Stock Stock Stock 3%
18 12hp Stock Stock Stock Stock 5%
20 15hp Stock Stock Stock Stock 5%
22 17hp Stock Stock Stock Stock 8%
24 20hp Stock Stock Stock Stock 8%
26 25hp Stock Stock Stock Stock 10%
28 30hp Stock Stock Stock Stock 10%
30 34hp Mod Mod Stock Stock 12%
32 38hp Mod Mod Mod Stock 12%
34 40hp Mod Mod Mod Stock 15%
36 45hp Mod Mod Mod Stock 15%
38 50hp Mod Mod Mod Stock 17%
40 55hp Mod Mod Mod Mod 20%
42 65hp Mod Mod Mod Mod 22%
 

 
Stock - 93 Pump Gas, Stock Engine, Stock Timing
Mod - Engine Modifications Required (Pistons, Rods, Valves, Valve Springs)
Horsepower increases as measured at rear wheel.
Every 10 horsepower can reduce your 1/4 mile ET as much at .1 seconds or more.
This Chart is just a guideline.  There are may variables, such as nozzle type and distribution 
Note:  If your motorcycle has 8 injectors (2 per cylinder), you will need to increase fuel by 3 times that of the chart.  Example:  1000cc engine with 30 jet.  Chart for 1 injector per cylinder show to add 12% more fuel.  For an engine with 2 injectors per cylinder, 36% more fuel should be added.  This is just a guide.  Dyno tuning is the best way to ensure a safe fuel curve.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cam Lobe Centers Explained

 
      One of the least understood topics and regarding engine tuning and building continues to be the concept of cam timing and “lobe centers”. The opening and closing process of an inlet or exhaust valve as controlled by a cam lobe constitutes a complete “event” in the cycle of the engine. Like any event, it has a beginning and an end. Naturally, then it also has a middle or center. The location of this center in relation to the rotational position of the crankshaft is known as the lobe center.

The process of “degreeing” cams allows the engine builder to place the lobe center of a cam in the correct orientation with reference to the crankshaft. The opening and closing points and resultant figures of the cam, although important, are very difficult to reference to set cam timing and are, after all, the result of where the lobe center is placed. Therefore the lobe center is used to reference cam timing. The difficulty in measuring the opening and closing points is the result of the very shallow and gradual starting and stopping of the valve motion. How do you tell just when the valve motion starts and stops? If you pick a specific amount of lift at some height beyond the initial gradual motion and always use that amount as a marker for the beginning and end of the motion, the center will always be halfway between these points. Therefore, the lobe center is computed from a timing number derived at a specific valve lift. Any lift could be used to compute this, but in the Japanese motorcycle industry 1mm or .040” is traditional. U.S. (automotive) cam grinders have used .050”. This “checking height” must be used to minimize the effect of the shallow opening and closing ramps on the cam lobe. Without this, each builder’s subjective notion of when movement starts would be the defining factor of timing. One picture is worth a few thousand of my words so now refer to my crudely drawn diagram for clarification. 
      The diagram graphically shows how these points lie in relation to the degrees of crankshaft rotation. The usable range of lobe center values for just about all commonly used engines is only about 15 degrees wide from about 98 to 112 degrees and for the engines we use, the right spread is even smaller than that. Small changes of one degree can have considerable effect on the power delivery characteristics of an engine.

Very generally speaking, the effect of moving lobe centers is as follows:
Advancing the intake and retarding the exhaust (“closing up the centers”) increases overlap and should move the power up in the RPM range, usually at the sacrifice of bottom end power. The result would be lower numerical values on both intake and exhaust lobe centers.
Retarding the intake and advancing the exhaust (“spreading the centers”) decreases overlap and should result in a wider power band at the sacrifice of some top end power. This condition would be indicated by higher numerical values on both intake and exhaust lobe centers. By moving only one cam the results are less predictable, but usually it is the intake that is moved to change power characteristics since small changes here seem to have a greater effect. With twin cam engines we have the luxury of moving the cams independently.

With a single cam engines you must advance or retard the intake and exhaust together, usually using the intake lobe center as the reference and only the cam grinder can spread or close up the centers when the cam is ground.
Basically, here’s how it’s done in the real world. I’m not going to tell you what lobe centers to use, as this varies from engine to engine, just how to determine them.
Many engine builders take lobe center measurements with zero valve lash (clearance) so that all movement can be detected. In fact, the valve lash can actually be slightly negative, that is the valve can be held slightly open by the cam with the valve in the closed position. You may also do the calculation with the running clearance at the valve. The amount of pre-load or clearance on the valve has no effect on the lobe center number but will effect the opening and closing numbers. What IS important is that, for future comparison purposes, you always do it the same way with the same lash value. It is also very important that an accurate top dead center “TDC” reference be used when degreeing cams.
Therefore, this should be checked carefully and the degree wheel and pointer set accordingly. Take a great deal of care when setting up your degree wheel, pointer, method of turning the engine, and dial indicator. A change of one degree can be significant, so accuracy is very important. A dial indicator is used to measure the valve motion in hundredths of a millimeter or thousandths of an inch. Set your dial indicator so that the plunger pushes on the retainer or tappet and moves as nearly parallel to the valve travel as possible. It is not necessary to use any particular valve, use one that allows the easiest indicator set-up and that you can easily see from the same side as the degree wheel.
I recommend that you begin with the intake cam, since the intake is the most likely to be damaged by an insufficient amount of valve to piston clearance or incorrect timing. Always start with the cam sprockets closest to the stock position.  Begin with the valve fully closed and with the dial indicator zeroed.  Double check the plunger movement to see that it moves freely, does not interfere with the cam lobe, rocker, or any other moving parts, and returns to zero when moved and released.  Rotate the engine in the correct direction while watching the dial indicator. Stop when the pointer shows 1mm of movement. Note this number.  On an intake cam, this will be a value before top dead center (BTDC). Continue rotating the engine, watching the dial indicator as the valve opens, then begins closing again. By counting the revolutions of the pointer and watching it return towards zero, you can stop when the valve lift is still 1mm before fully seated, noting the degree wheel value at this point. On the intake cam this will be a value after bottom dead center (ABDC). It is important to stop at the correct point because you should avoid turning the engine backwards as this unloads the cam chain and can result in an erroneous reading.

To compute the lobe center, you:
 A. Add the two opening and closing numbers noted
 B. Add 180 to this sum
 C. Divide this sum by 2
 D. Subtract the smaller number of the two opening and closing numbers from this quotient.

The result is the lobe center. For Example:
Intake opens (at 1mm lift) 38 BTDC
Intake closes (at 1mm lift) 68 ABDC

38+68+180=286, divide by 2 =143, subtract 38 from 143 = 105
The lobe center on this cam is 105 degrees.

The method is the same on the exhaust except the opening number will be a value before bottom dead center (BBDC), the closing value will be after top dead center (ATDC) and again, subtract the smaller number.
For Example:
Exhaust opens (at 1mm lift) 60 BBDC
Exhaust closes (at 1mm lift) 40 ATDC

60+40+180=280, divide by 2=140, subtract 40 from 140 =100
The lobe center on this cam is 100 degrees.

Note that in both cases, it is the smaller of the two numbers that is subtracted.
Also note that the 286 and 280 degree values are similar to what may be the advertised duration of the cam. This number is called the “checking duration” as it is dependent upon the checking height used (in this case 1mm).

Remember, the opening and closing values (and duration) are dependent on the checking clearance and will vary based on this amount. The lobe center number will not. This is why published numbers are not a good way to compare cams. You must always know the checking height that was used to derive those numbers.

To change the lobe center, loosen the sprocket attach bolts and move the crankshaft slightly to alter it’s relationship to the cam. Retighten the bolts and re-check. When the selected value is finally reached, tighten and loctite the bolts, then re-check one more time. With a little experience you will know which way to go to advance or retard a cam to achieve the desired lobe center.

Caution:
Moving lobe centers can drastically alter valve to piston clearance. And remember, the closest point is rarely at TDC. The most critical is the intake and usually occurs somewhere after TDC. Make all adjustments in small increments and NEVER force the engine past any resistance until you know the cause.
Changes to the power output are can be subtle, hard to predict, and frankly, most of this has been explored to death so it’s unlikely you will find some “new power”. But each engine is different and cam timing must be part of any fully prepared engine. Be careful with following “we always did it that way” thinking.
The advent of electronic fuel injection and four valve heads has changed the cam requirements of engines. Increased valve area means less “cam” gives you more flow. On an injected engine you no longer need to create a strong vacuum signal through a carburetor throat for good fuel atomization. The injector is going to get the fuel in there instead of flow across a jet. The only way to optimize cam lobe centers is through extensive and careful dyno or performance testing.

 

Offline ICEMAN

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #12 on: October 24, 2009, 08:32:38 AM »
i ran a 50 shot on mine with a stock motor.  You can actually run a 60 shot on it with a dead on tune.
you never hurt your motor like that?

Offline BATTMAN

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2009, 05:01:51 PM »
It never hurt the motor.  Make sure you tune it on the dyno though.  The tune has to be dead on.  I ran that map on the street one time and it fouled the plugs so bad that it wouldnt start.  It dumps alot of fuel in the motor so you have to pretty much have it wide open.

Offline TrackRat

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2009, 08:17:02 PM »
i have a set of 42 pound injectors would that be good enough?
At 43 psi fuel pressure those should be enough for about 270 hp give or take about 2-3 hp either way.You could get a little more if you bump the pressure up to 50 psi. Make sure you have a good pump. The pump is as important as the injectors:thumb:

 How much Hp are you trying to make? This calculator helped me out. I just put injectors in that are just above the hp rating I was looking for.


http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx


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Offline ICEMAN

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #15 on: October 27, 2009, 06:59:56 PM »
It never hurt the motor.  Make sure you tune it on the dyno though.  The tune has to be dead on.  I ran that map on the street one time and it fouled the plugs so bad that it wouldnt start.  It dumps alot of fuel in the motor so you have to pretty much have it wide open.
i never ran a power commander but isnt there a way you could turn the fuel down and ride on the streets. i see my buddy do it all the time. and do any of you guys know if a 5mil strock is to much for the streets

Offline ICEMAN

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #16 on: October 27, 2009, 07:02:29 PM »
How much Hp are you trying to make? This calculator helped me out. I just put injectors in that are just above the hp rating I was looking for

i wasnt really looking for a number just didnt want to be stock and need a little kick for the track. i want to street ride and be able to hang with some of my buddies with the 1397 at the track.

Offline TrackRat

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #17 on: October 27, 2009, 08:05:38 PM »
How much Hp are you trying to make? This calculator helped me out. I just put injectors in that are just above the hp rating I was looking for

i wasnt really looking for a number just didnt want to be stock and need a little kick for the track. i want to street ride and be able to hang with some of my buddies with the 1397 at the track.

If thats the case why put a 5mil in the bike  :?

Why not just do a 1397 with an 08 crank and spray the house down at the track. these motors are proven and are very streetable. :thumb:


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Offline ICEMAN

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #18 on: October 31, 2009, 10:08:44 PM »
its cheaper than 1397. strock crank only 800 something, marine crank, port and polish 400. valve  springs 165 new  bearings a little over a 100. i dont have to do that much. no machining the block, buying pistons, getting head work, buying springs and all that. now that i think about it im going to lool into it and get prices

Offline TrackRat

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #19 on: October 31, 2009, 11:12:51 PM »
its cheaper than 1397. strock crank only 800 something, marine crank, port and polish 400. valve  springs 165 new  bearings a little over a 100. i dont have to do that much. no machining the block, buying pistons, getting head work, buying springs and all that. now that i think about it im going to lool into it and get prices

Dont forget Rods,cams ,spacer, injectors, fuel pump and a different clutch set up (maybe a sigle stage lock up). I see where your headed ......just keep an eye on your oil pressure. When you put the motor together have a gauge on it. Every  time you crank that sucker up check your oil pressure.  :thumb:

Rods---no one I know puts a stroker crank in a bike without rods
Cams---- just to get all the performance out of the motor (two Intakes wont do it)
spacer ------ for the crank
Injectors ....cause its gonna need alot of fuel
« Last Edit: October 31, 2009, 11:17:11 PM by TrackRat »


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Offline species0113

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #20 on: November 01, 2009, 01:05:28 PM »
It never hurt the motor.  Make sure you tune it on the dyno though.  The tune has to be dead on.  I ran that map on the street one time and it fouled the plugs so bad that it wouldnt start.  It dumps alot of fuel in the motor so you have to pretty much have it wide open.
i never ran a power commander but isnt there a way you could turn the fuel down and ride on the streets. i see my buddy do it all the time. and do any of you guys know if a 5mil strock is to much for the streets

Get yourself a Power Commander and a LCD panel. You'll have to get two custom maps made though. One for the juice and one for motor. Both can be stored in the LCD so you can switch back and fourth on the fly and not have to carry your laptop around. Its a sweet gig. Stay under 45-50 shot and the stock fuel system is fine with a stock headed motor. Never had a problem You might have to go down on the nitrous shot with the worked head. Not sure the capabilities of the stock fuel system. Ask a professional.

Offline ICEMAN

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #21 on: November 03, 2009, 07:56:35 PM »
its cheaper than 1397. strock crank only 800 something, marine crank, port and polish 400. valve  springs 165 new  bearings a little over a 100. i dont have to do that much. no machining the block, buying pistons, getting head work, buying springs and all that. now that i think about it im going to lool into it and get prices

Dont forget Rods,cams ,spacer, injectors, fuel pump and a different clutch set up (maybe a sigle stage lock up). I see where your headed ......just keep an eye on your oil pressure. When you put the motor together have a gauge on it. Every  time you crank that sucker up check your oil pressure.  :thumb:

Rods---no one I know puts a stroker crank in a bike without rods
Cams---- just to get all the performance out of the motor (two Intakes wont do it)
spacer ------ for the crank
Injectors ....cause its gonna need alot of fuel
that cost is to much im going 1397. i see a guy selling 3 use je pistons for 200 and i also see that people are selling used blocks for the same price. thats cheaper for me and i could handle that price just need new rings and another piston. thanks guys

Offline busamedic13

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #22 on: November 09, 2009, 10:58:06 PM »
oldschool dave here...been workin on mine for awhile makin sure i dont over pressurize anything!  stock motor (sorry..05 busa) with airbox mod(sml), PC wth hub and screen, EFIR, Muzzy st pipe, RPM lockup clutch (still usin original 05 stock clutch pack haha?!) , MPS airshifter, Nos (38 jet in airtube / just changed to twin nozzles, 32 jet ..one in each airtube),10 over Trac arm wth Pirelli 240x18 and jus ran a 7.80 @ 137.55 in 1000' past wknd.  its my dailey rider..touring bike and pull a trailer with it to the track !  NO Problems at all with stressin the motor.  no change to fuel system other than adding 20% fuel at 100% throttle in the Muzzy map on the hub..1-street map , 2-race map.  really simple setup (has to be for me) haha remember, im oldschool !  i kno my times arent that impressive compared to whats out there, but for a dailey rider and the minor changes ive made to the motor..im HAPPY !!  lo LOW maintenance ! change oil, get bottle filled, let pressurre out of rear tire and go have FUN !  :thumb:  my kind of race..i mean street bike .  peace yal and God bless

Offline ICEMAN

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #23 on: November 18, 2009, 07:59:48 PM »
i like that, thats keeping it simple :thumb:

Offline 559hp

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Re: most you could spray a stock busa motor
« Reply #24 on: December 12, 2009, 08:58:13 PM »
I run 100 shot of nitrous on my brothers bike and it is all stuck just a power camander and run 9.3 in a 1/4 mile at 150 miles no air shifter.