Author Topic: Hurt the motor on the first trip with dope (Read 14068 times) Tweet

6002abusa · « **on:** March 13, 2010, 12:17:33 PM »

Cliffs: 08 Busa, stock motor ,36 hp shot on MPS Spider with a dyno tune
Had the bike tuned and went to the track. On pass 6 the bike developed a tic tic tic. Motor is hurt and the tear down is coming very soon. I have been told if I didnt want to go in the motor the stay away from the spray. I sure as hell didnt think it was gonna happen so soon.

sportbikeryder · « **Reply #1 on:** March 13, 2010, 01:19:00 PM »

Check your valve shims to see if hey have moved and the tappets for cracks. Shouldn;t have hurt anything wih stock rev limit and only a 36 shot though.

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #2 on:** March 14, 2010, 11:33:42 AM »

Who tuned it?What was your A/F ratio? What fuel were u using?

6002abusa · « **Reply #3 on:** March 14, 2010, 02:52:48 PM »

The afr is fine. He tuned a bit on the rich side. I pulled the plugs and they look good. I have a valve thread up now too.

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #4 on:** March 14, 2010, 06:13:42 PM »

Quote from: 6002abusa on March 14, 2010, 02:56:36 PM

The chart is out in my truck. Can remember off hand. It made the 36 hp on the dot. The total hp # is lower than expected. My motor hp was down 13 since last dyno trip.

that could be an indication that something was wrong before you sprayed

6002abusa · « **Reply #5 on:** March 14, 2010, 06:58:31 PM »

I attribute the loss to the longer heavier chain and the shinko. The spider bar is also IMO causing turbulance/restriction in the air box. I need to get some short stacks. I was down 2-3 mph in the 1/4 after installing the bar in the box.

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #6 on:** March 14, 2010, 07:10:43 PM »

Did u install the MPS Spyder before you installed the Shinko ad the Longer chain?

6002abusa · « **Reply #7 on:** March 14, 2010, 08:21:21 PM »

No I didnt. I didnt have the chain, Shinko, or spider at time of my first dyno tune though. I made 186 at first tune. Now Im making 171.. was anyway .lol

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #8 on:** March 14, 2010, 08:33:30 PM »

That is a 15hp loss. Have u checked your oil for bearing material?

jblankenship · « **Reply #9 on:** March 14, 2010, 08:47:30 PM »

that's a lot to lose. I would suspect bearing as well.

6002abusa · « **Reply #10 on:** March 14, 2010, 09:06:45 PM »

I have not been in the motor. I have not checked the pan. The magnet is always pretty clean. The bike has about 6000 mi. and probably 300 passes on it. I cant see having a bearing problem. I also didnt check the correction factors to make sure its apples to apples.

jblankenship · « **Reply #11 on:** March 14, 2010, 10:15:15 PM »

bearing material won't stick to the magnet, you also said you lost mph with the spray bar. Never seen that. 3 mph is normally about 10 hp. So look at it that way. Drop the pan. 300 passes and the pan has never been dropped? And how many clutches have been put in it?

6002abusa · « **Reply #12 on:** March 14, 2010, 11:25:01 PM »

No clutches yet. LOL. I dont have a good clutch hand. I cant slip it for shit. Thats why my 60' is 1.52's. I know the bearing material isnt magnetic. I just didnt have much else to say. Having never tested oil or dropped the pan didnt leave me with much. lol

6002abusa · « **Reply #13 on:** March 14, 2010, 11:26:00 PM »

The bar is right on top of the stacks. Schnitz recommends short stacks for it. I see why.

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #14 on:** March 15, 2010, 07:09:24 AM »

From the info that you have given I beleive you motor was hurt before you installed the Nitrous.

Chuck Wilburn · « **Reply #15 on:** March 15, 2010, 09:42:17 AM »

36hp is baby nitrous- can't hurt anything with that. Hell, we can't hurt any parts with a 160horse shot- maybe we're not trying hard enough. If you're using an air shifter and have too much kill time you can definately spit a keeper with those weak valve springs- assuming you have stock springs in. I've seen that happen a lot with 08s.

TrickTom1 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 15, 2010, 08:45:24 PM »

If you're going into the motor get the valve springs, studs, ect while you're in there, sorry to hear it's hurt.

nickelcityracing · « **Reply #17 on:** March 16, 2010, 02:30:03 PM »

keep us posted because we are going to runa 40 shot on our 08..... maybe not now...

6002abusa · « **Reply #18 on:** March 21, 2010, 07:58:03 PM »

Stock s/s valves and 65# APE springs are going in tomorrow. Im not gonna stud it at this time. The kill time is 50ms. If that too long let me know. Im gonna bump it to a 48 shot after this. As far as 36 being a baby shot. I have researched this topic to no end. Most say a 40 is fine all day long. Some say a 50 is fine. I had a 6000-11000 window set up. I shifted at 11200 indicated on the dot. I dont use the shift light. Im on the money with every shift. The general consensus is that this was a freak thing. I knew the springs were the weak link. I sure didnt expect to need to change this so soon though. Oh well. I was told if I didnt want to have the motor out of the bike I should take the nitrous out of the plan.

Blue08Busa · « **Reply #19 on:** August 10, 2010, 01:20:30 PM »

I know this is an old topic, but something I just realized is that you had your window switch set to shut off at 11,000 and you were shifting at an indicated 11,200. On my bike an indicated 11,200 is really only 10,500. My tach reads 700 rpm high. I have asked about it and it seems to be pretty normal with gen 2's. If the same is true with your bike then you would have definately been shifting in the nitrous. I am not a nitrous expert, and dont know if that would have caused problems for sure or not, but I know people suggest not doing that.

6002abusa · « **Reply #20 on:** September 23, 2010, 10:09:29 AM »

It seems that even if the RPMs were off the ignition kill on the shifter would save my azz. It has a Bazzaz quick shifter on it. The air shifter pulls the shifter and the quick shifter does the kill. I have it set up that way for street and track.

Gixx1525R · « **Reply #21 on:** September 24, 2010, 05:29:44 AM »

Have u tested your Nitrous system?

__NATE__ · « **Reply #22 on:** September 24, 2010, 10:06:33 AM »

who tuned it?

Busashot · « **Reply #23 on:** September 26, 2010, 12:49:32 AM »

Even though I have only owned Gen Is, I have ran 50hp nitrous shots without any issues. On my stock setup I had the ECU set to activate from 6k-10k. I shift at 10.2k from the shift light with a CycleTek Air shifter. This has been enough time to allow nitrous to clear out of the airbox(somewhat) at the shift. With no matter what kill time, if the nitrous is still flowing during the shift you will normally hear loud pops at every shift. I personally do not like that happening. Your not going to lose any ET/MPH if the nitrous doesn't flow for a split second or so. Your obviously not into the rev limiter as you are shifting by tach which I have seen to be off as much as 800rpms on 2 different Gen IIs. I suggest you use the shift lite IMHO. My Gen I is off by about the same but I run a lot of gear which can throw it off more.

The other reason I have the nitrous turn off before the shift is that it helps to keep the power down a bit at the shift which can keep tire spin to a mininum. Anyhow, I have run 2 -.023 funnel jets sprayed in the box crossing each other to help distribute the nitrous as evenly as possible. These jets have netted me 51hp increase with a 12.2 to 12.4 AFR even though some charts claim only 32 to 40hp. On a fresh Dyno 250I I dynoed SAE 155hp NA and SAE 206hp with nitrous. I'm going to run a 65hp shot here soon at the drags. Because I am at 5300' altitude, this is not a problem with the injectors maxing out.