Kirk,
what is kinda sticking in my craw is you giving a mixture of good advice and bad advice (REALLY bad wrt turbo) to a guy who is just starting out.
Not trying to sell him on the idea of a turbo. Maybe I should make myself clear on that point. I was simply using the economic arithmatic of a really basic turbo to illustrate that it's easy to surpass the expense of one, when going into the engine.
You come off as an expert on engine mods. This guy might just believe all the stuff you are saying
The OP asked a question, and was given an incredibly bad "solution". Just out of empathy for the OP, who would NOT have spoken up to save him from the hassles and heartache of a mess like that. Is there something that I told him that was wrong? Glenn appears to be on the same page, and I think he knows what he's doing.
Had you ever been inside that 30,000mi motor which ran so well????
Have you ever flashed an ECU?
Have you ever ridden even a well buily 1397 compared with a stock motor gen1?
I am not attacking you whatsoever, just cautioning new guy to get advice from someone who has been there, done that.
Even a simple pipe & powercommander are not without their issues (admitedly minor)
Karl
Karl, I've never HAD to go inside a 30,000 mile engine. I've ridden a lot of bikes, and I've ridden (and raced) alongside a bunch more, including numerous 1397s, and I have no idea why someone would have issues with a simple pipe and Power Commander install.
If you're questioning my credentials to give advice of this nature, I was born into the industry, coming home from the hospital in a brand new 409-powered Chevrolet, with an interest in performance from the time I became old enough to understand, eventually using my crayons at age six to draw an accurate suck/squeeze/bang/blow sequence based on my knowledge. I've been inside motorcycle racing engines since puberty, and began automobile racing engine development in competition on the 1320' chassis dyno on my 16th birthday. I worked for a full-service race car fabrication facility with a dyno, and built all of my own racing engines, as well as engines for family, friends, and my customers. These engines ranged from NHRA Stock Eliminator type builds, to fuel-injected roller-cam intercooled turbo builds with no rules, cost-no-object aluminum-head engines using hundreds of horsepower's worth of nitrous, to (literally) fire-breathing NHRA Pro ET Rotary Mazda engines. My personality type causes me to not exactly be the life of the party when it's time to do this stuff, but I learn from the mistakes of others, and to tend to not make mistakes myself. I'm nearing AARP membership age, and I have NEVER had an engine fail due to anything I did wrong. I understand the principles, I have an extensive background in racing engine math, I have held multiple ASE certifications, I am factory-trained by more makes than I could list, and have received numerous awards, including being appointed to a manufacturer's National Advisory Board.
So if Mr. 250@.050" stocker starts sending the OP down the wrong road, I'm gonna call "time out". It's much easier and less expensive to do it now, than to have to help un-screw it up after he's already blown his entire budget and has less power than when he started out.
You are correct that some engine combinations can have "teething" issues when it comes to set-up, and I have found that these generally become an issue based on the complexity of the set-up, the depth of the program, and the distance from which one strays from common combinations. For that reason and others, I'm always looking for the simplest, most efficient, most reliable, most proven, and least invasive path to the stated goals. And the OP's stated goals aren't much.
BTW: my advice ito Eddie is to call Carpenter or Knecum, tell them his objectives, get pricing.
That is EXCELLENT advice, Karl. Those guys have probably learned more stuff on accident, than I have learned on purpose.
