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Offline Jonny Hotnuts

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Oil mods, easy and fun~
« on: March 04, 2012, 01:30:07 AM »
The oil mods:

There are a few things a guy can do to these engines to get more oil where its needed. Take note that these mods are for engines making  2-3+ times OEM HP. Truth be known the OEM oiling system is very adequate and capable of taking a bike well 100K miles without issues. Some of these mods should not be done for daily drivers and all should be done at your own risk.
There are 2 very important terms dealing with an oil system. These terms are ‘FLOW’ and ‘PRESSURE’. Think of filling a 2-5 gallon buckets with water. You can use a high pressure 1” hose with 300 psi and fill it in about 2 seconds…..or use another 5 gallon bucket to dump into the other. The bucket poured has almost zero pressure but massive flow. Two different ways to fill a bucket in the same time but one uses flow and the other uses pressure. These concepts are critical to the busa oil system. 
The whole idea of  ‘improving’ the busa oil system is to provide more oil to the bearings. More oil directly equates to less bearing failure even with massive load stresses, and in the event of a bearing failure can lessen the damage.

First, lets take a look at the heart. It consists of the pump and regulator.
The regulators job is to regulate pressure both low and high. The pumps job is to pump oil…..seems like a simple concept….but pressure in the system is generated by restrictions so any modification designed to decrease oil flow (jet reductions) in hopes that it will send more oil to the bearings will fail. AS with the APE high volume pump gear. It all goes out the regulator……

Look at it this way:

(pump puts oil IN the system, everything else bleeds oil off)

-Pump (100% in flow to system  [OEM GEAR]) to regulator (-33 out flow) - jets, coolers, and secondary oiling (-33 out flow) main and rod bearings (-33 out flow).

One of the common mods is to restrict jets…..but heres what happens:

-Pump (100% in flow to system  [OEM GEAR]) to regulator (-55 out flow) - jets, coolers, and secondary oiling (-11 out flow) – main and rod bearings (-33 out flow)

With high flow pump gear:
-Pump (130% in flow to system  [APE GEAR]) to regulator (-85 out flow) - jets, coolers, and secondary oiling (-11 out flow) – main and rod bearings (-33 out flow)

Basically all that happens is the jets flow less, regulator flows more and main and rod bearings get EXACTLY the same! This will be true IF the OEM regulator has enough flow capability to outflow. IT IS MY OPINION THAT THE REGULATOR BY DESIGN WAS NOT MADE TO BE ABLE TO FULLY REGULATE SYSTEM PRESSURE! This is only guess….and the fact that Suzuki has a block in the regulator piston so it only goes ½ way down the out jets…..hummmmm. I believe even with the OEM pump gear the pump can flow more oil than the regulator can vent out.  These are just assumptions on my part…..

1st mod. APE high volume gear.

2nd Billet ‘high pressure’ oil regulator OR (and what I do) make a restrictor to the oil pressure regulator by using a washer with an inside hole of ¼” that sits on top of the regulator.

Example with high volume pump, restricted or high pressure regulator only:

-Pump (130% in flow to system  [APE GEAR]) to regulator (-33 [now limited] out flow) - jets, coolers, and secondary oiling (-48 out flow) – main and rod bearings (-48 out flow)

Clearly more oil is going to the bearings…..BUT also more oil is going to the head, transmission, piston cooling jets and other items that DO NOT NEED EXTRA FLOW!

Mod 3
Restrictions of the piston cooling jets.
I have used 2 methods for restriction, soldering the ends and drilling and putting a.032 drill in the end and pinching the tube around the bit. Soldering the ends looked cleaner but was time consuming and a huge pain. I recommend the pinch method. I have not done flow tests but can say that with these restricted to about .030-.035 will at higher pressure….will flow near the same amount of oil as OEM jets will with the OEM pump/reg. Many people block these 100% with no problems....truth is all the oil going out the rods and mains gets slung around and will oil the pistons, pins and cylinders. Because I run 5 miles wide open I only restrict mine....if I did 1320 I would block them completely.


Mod 4
Blocking the stator jet
Bad idea for the daily driver….good idea for the drag racer (or LSR).


Mod 5
Reducing oil to the head.
(this I read about somewhere else….)
There is a through bolt that supplies oil to the head. Now that the pump and regulator flow more if left OEM the head will receive much more oil than needed. Drill and tap the end of the bolt and use a .125 jet to restrict flow.

Mod 6
Block oiling to the counterbalancer.
If you have a balanced crank and removed the counterbalancer you will also need to block the passages or starve the motor. Easiest (and cheap) method is to use the APE counter block off. www.hayabusazone.com

Now with the HV gear, Modded regulator AND restricted secondary oiling:

-Pump (130% in flow to system  [APE GEAR]) to regulator (-33 [now limited] out flow) - jets, coolers, and secondary oiling (-28 out flow) – main and rod bearings (-68 out flow)
As you can see much more oil is now going to the bearings and basically the same is going to secondary systems.

Mod 7
Problems with Koenig:

Awesome pan….but…
A.   The o-ring on the pick up swivel (at least on mine) is slightly smaller then what it should have been. This could of caused bubbles to be introduced into the system. I have seen 2 instances where you could blow air past the o-ring. Something to look for….I would bet someone with oil fluctuations is due to this smallish Oring and  couldn’t find what the prob was…..or others that lost motors/bearings because of this. 

B.   The bolt that limits the swing travel…..they used an off the shelf screw that protrudes about 75% into the pickup tube!!!!! Remove it and cut it off so only a small nub in in the pipe. Hard for me to believe they did this….

C.   Remove the prescreen and put a radius on the pickup intake end block. This will allow a much higher oil volume to be taken up without cavitation.


Mod 8
Removing the castings sides of the OEM oil restrictor behind filter.
When removing the oil cooler you will need to remove the restrictor plug (oil goes IN the filter and back to the motor  through the pipe) The interesting thing that Suzuki did was include the pipe with the oil restirctior on one side….and the oil from the oil cooler on the opposite. I do not think this was done by accident. I believe it was to balance oil flow on both sides of the filter. If you remove the cooler and restrictor use a die grinder with carbide tip to knock down the walls allowing oil to be able to flow around the base of the filter unobstructed. I also drill out the threads so the oil pipe now has a smooth bore.

Before

after

Mod 9
Radius the oil filter discharge pipe.
The end of the pipe the filter screws on is squared…..Think of this flow the same way velocity stacks work. By putting a slight radii on the end of the pipe will help oil flow back into the motor.

Modifying the ease of the flow now translates into MORE pump flow:

-Pump (136% in flow to system  [APE GEAR]) to regulator (-33 [now limited] out flow) - jets, coolers, and secondary oiling (-31 out flow) – main and rod bearings (-71 out flow)


Increasing flow to the bearings:

Mod 10
I have done some flow test….sounds crazy but I use a garden hose and a tape measure.  Connect a garden hose to the oil filter IN pipe and turn it on (low). You can measure the water stream coming from each bearing supply hole (shells off). (Note; you can also check flow of piston jets the same way)
I have noticed slightly less flow going to the 1 and  2 bearing. You will notice that all other bearings are fed from a large primary gallery….and then takes 2-90 degree turns and goes waaaay down in size.
Drill out this passage to 5/16” all the way to the end (and no more!). Tap and plug this hole. I don’t BUT it would also be a good idea to remove the plug doing the same to its adjoining ‘feeding’ passage (also small).






Mod 11
Increasing the ‘slit’ width under the shells
Its easy to see that with the shells installed part of the oil hole into the shell is blocked by the castings below. I do not do this mod but many use a fine cut off wheel to remove some stock from the sides to expose more of the shell hole to the feed below.



Mod 12
Modifying the bearing shells.
I have done this mod but it makes me uneasy. Truth is I don’t like to handle these shells let alone drill on them. I have drilled additional holes….and oblonged existing holes. Using the now available gen II bearings with long holes is the only way to go!!!!

Mod 13
The Gen II crank
The Gen II crank has grooves around the main journals. This, along with the long holes in the gen II bearings provides significantly more oil to the rods. Suzuki CLEARLY recognized the need to provide more oil to the rods by this change. This change made many of the before mentioned oil mods unnecessary (but not entirely).
I have (to my knowledge) the first Gen I crank that has had the mains fluted like the Gen II (on its way in a week or so) and was done because of the significant improvement in oiling. www.marinecrankshaftinc.com

Mod 14
Bearing tolerances
Ok, this is not really a mod but important. Oil like all liquids under pressure will FLOW TO THE POINT OF LEAST RESISTANCE! Because oil flows to the mains FIRST and then the rods if you have your mains loose and your rods tight all the oil will flow out the crank and starve the rods. So in building these engines you need to have your mains tighter than your rods…..but not so loose you would drop pressure to the mains! I personally run on the tight side of tolerance for the main and closer to the looser spec on the rods. Get this wrong and you will smoke the motor. This is why engine builders get paid the $$$$....because they know this poop.

Mod 15
Restrict oil to the turbo!!!!
You are tapping a line off the main artery of the motor. You must run a restrictor in the line and the turbo doesn’t need 50 gallons of oil running through it!

In closing, I made most of this up, may of missed some important ones or was way off base in calculations.
Take everything I say with a grain of salt….

~JH
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Garrett T28@7psi

Busa pwrd Bonneville car 208 mph+
2X world record holder
NA motor: 1507cc
Fastest 1.5L NA door slammer in the world

Offline speedduck

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2012, 03:54:57 AM »
Ok, there`s some good stuff to improve oiling. Couple thougths here, i had this billet high pressure oil regulator and after minor bearing damage it seemed to get worn inside, some debris gone through and left it leaking, doesn`t happen so easy with original regulator which is steel.
Anybody used high-vol oil pump ? I think it was available from TTS few years ago.
Is there more need for piston cooling with turbo engine ?
How can the oil passage from mains to rod journals in billet crankshafts be adequate when there is mostly one hole ? It has to lubricate whole journal from one point.

Offline glenn71

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2012, 05:29:19 AM »
if you look at your cases where your oil pump bolts onto the motor and where the pickup bolts onto the cases theres alot of sharp edges in there on the suction side of the pump.i radius all in there and port match the oil pump faces itself on the outlet hole.In regards to the billet cranks one oiling hole,the hole is drilled to take advantage of gyroscopic force to drag oil out into the rod bearing.Im concerned with a higher volume oil pump gear running the sump dry and i can see on the cam journals nearest to the cam gears,theyre doesnt seem like it wants any less oil to the head but could do with an improvement in oil returning to the sump faster.Ill be trying a high pressure relief valve firstly with the stock oil pump gear.My question though is your assumption that a large percentage of oil goes straight out the stock pressure reg,so are you saying that below 115psi oil pressure theyre is significant oil flow out the regulator,because with 40weight oil hot,you rarely reach 115psi with average bearing clearances and only see that pressure when the oil is warm.What i dont think is ideal is to put the oil pressure reg BEFORE the restrictor that diverts flow to the oil cooler,i know this will stop blowing the oil filter off the motor cold, but the bearings oil pressure is a diluted response on the other side of a filter and a restrictor.Interestingly blocking the oil jets without restricting the oil to the head would potentially lower your oil level in the sump as it has to migrate more oil out of the head instead of just bouncing off the bottom of the pistons.
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Online sportbikeryder

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2012, 06:54:52 AM »


Mod 5
Reducing oil to the head.
(this I read about somewhere else….)
There is a through bolt that supplies oil to the head. Now that the pump and regulator flow more if left OEM the head will receive much more oil than needed. Drill and tap the end of the bolt and use a .125 jet to restrict flow.



did you really use a .125 jet or was it a #125 jet? I have used a #125. A .125 jet wouldn't restrict any flow as it is larger than the current hole.
Any day on a motorcycle like this that ends just needing parts and labor is a good day.
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4.51, 171.75mph 1/8th mile  6.908, 212.83mph 1/4 mile Tuning

Offline dave3.4

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2012, 08:15:37 AM »
great write up :thumb:

Offline speedduck

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2012, 10:34:42 AM »
I have these cases, don´t know who prepared them, there is marked ECS 1 on the side, any ideas ?
There is extra hole drilled behind oil filter:

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #6 on: March 04, 2012, 10:56:55 AM »
They could be from ECS in Arizona, Walter Sprout used to tune there. I don't know if they are still around or not.
Any day on a motorcycle like this that ends just needing parts and labor is a good day.
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Offline entropy

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #7 on: March 04, 2012, 12:13:05 PM »
Jonny,
thanks a million for taking the extensive time to put together and post your thoughts & practices on oiling mods. :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
I have been searching and asking about oil mods for the 2 years i've been building my 1635's and have seen nothing like it.
Kudos to you :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu:

My LSR issue is oil pressure dropping from more of less steady 80-90psi until 18-20sec into a 1mi or 1.5 mile pass, then it abruptly drops to an erratic 55-65psi for the rest of the pass.

It does this with both my motors, one built by me, one built by Bob Carpenter.  Both are 1635 carpenter kits.
Both now have stock oil pump gear and stock oil pressure relief valves, stock filters, stock CCT.
Both now have the Muzzy kit for removing the oil cooler.
Both have Koenig 2" pans with swinging pickup.
Both have an oil sump baffle.

I have tried high pressure gear, hi pressure relief valve, smoothing the cases where oil enters the pump, set of Rick-modified cases, Jim Gilnack head.

Bearings don't seem to care, they look great; Knecum says stop stressing, bearings look good.

My built to the hilt Zx12 didn't do this, so i keep thinking about it...

Any thoughts?
Karl
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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #8 on: March 04, 2012, 03:34:03 PM »
Great write up, Jonny!  :tu:

And  look no,,
-Chris

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Offline Jonny Hotnuts

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2012, 04:09:25 PM »
Quote
Jonny,
thanks a million for taking the extensive time to put together and post your thoughts & practices on oiling mods. :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
I have been searching and asking about oil mods for the 2 years i've been building my 1635's and have seen nothing like it.
Kudos to you :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu:

My LSR issue is oil pressure dropping from more of less steady 80-90psi until 18-20sec into a 1mi or 1.5 mile pass, then it abruptly drops to an erratic 55-65psi for the rest of the pass.

It does this with both my motors, one built by me, one built by Bob Carpenter.  Both are 1635 carpenter kits.
Both now have stock oil pump gear and stock oil pressure relief valves, stock filters, stock CCT.
Both now have the Muzzy kit for removing the oil cooler.
Both have Koenig 2" pans with swinging pickup.
Both have an oil sump baffle.

I have tried high pressure gear, hi pressure relief valve, smoothing the cases where oil enters the pump, set of Rick-modified cases, Jim Gilnack head.

Bearings don't seem to care, they look great; Knecum says stop stressing, bearings look good.

My built to the hilt Zx12 didn't do this, so i keep thinking about it...

Any thoughts?
Karl

Because this is happening between both motors I have a feeling that it may be due to the oil pressure sensor itself (unless you are using 2 different units). I have seen sensors and gauges go bad (or have a bad connection) and have chased my tail for months trying to find out what the problem in the motor was. I would not be surprised if you used the same pressure sensor on both motors, because you know exactly when and where your oil pressure fluctuates its likely being data logged so the sensor is likely aftermarket. Pressure sensors have ways of going to hell on ya.

Funny story.....(from last year)
I purchased a new Aeromotive A1000 regulator from Summit. After plumbing my system I was getting erratic readings on my data logging and gauge. I replaced the filter, pump, fuel gauges (2 of them).....turns out that it was a small burr in the casting of the regulator where the ball set. Who would of thought that a brand new, very expensive, shiny regulator was in fact....a piece of shit. I spent a ton of coin and countless hours of worry looking for the problem....when it was a super easy fix.

The other thing to check is if the O ring in the swing pickup has developed a flat spot and is sucking air.

Good luck, this is a tough on!

~JH
02 BL/BLK
Garrett T28@7psi

Busa pwrd Bonneville car 208 mph+
2X world record holder
NA motor: 1507cc
Fastest 1.5L NA door slammer in the world

Offline clearblue

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2012, 06:36:29 PM »
Thanx for the time you spent on this  :tu:  Got one thing to add , When Bob Carpenter did my 1397 he would not put in a high volume oil gear in , something about it causing more wear on the rod bearings ?

Offline entropy

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #11 on: March 05, 2012, 06:39:23 AM »
Quote
Jonny,
thanks a million for taking the extensive time to put together and post your thoughts & practices on oiling mods. :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
I have been searching and asking about oil mods for the 2 years i've been building my 1635's and have seen nothing like it.
Kudos to you :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu:

My LSR issue is oil pressure dropping from more of less steady 80-90psi until 18-20sec into a 1mi or 1.5 mile pass, then it abruptly drops to an erratic 55-65psi for the rest of the pass.

It does this with both my motors, one built by me, one built by Bob Carpenter.  Both are 1635 carpenter kits.
Both now have stock oil pump gear and stock oil pressure relief valves, stock filters, stock CCT.
Both now have the Muzzy kit for removing the oil cooler.
Both have Koenig 2" pans with swinging pickup.
Both have an oil sump baffle.

I have tried high pressure gear, hi pressure relief valve, smoothing the cases where oil enters the pump, set of Rick-modified cases, Jim Gilnack head.

Bearings don't seem to care, they look great; Knecum says stop stressing, bearings look good.

My built to the hilt Zx12 didn't do this, so i keep thinking about it...

Any thoughts?
Karl

Because this is happening between both motors I have a feeling that it may be due to the oil pressure sensor itself (unless you are using 2 different units). I have seen sensors and gauges go bad (or have a bad connection) and have chased my tail for months trying to find out what the problem in the motor was. I would not be surprised if you used the same pressure sensor on both motors, because you know exactly when and where your oil pressure fluctuates its likely being data logged so the sensor is likely aftermarket. Pressure sensors have ways of going to hell on ya.

Funny story.....(from last year)
I purchased a new Aeromotive A1000 regulator from Summit. After plumbing my system I was getting erratic readings on my data logging and gauge. I replaced the filter, pump, fuel gauges (2 of them).....turns out that it was a small burr in the casting of the regulator where the ball set. Who would of thought that a brand new, very expensive, shiny regulator was in fact....a piece of shit. I spent a ton of coin and countless hours of worry looking for the problem....when it was a super easy fix.

The other thing to check is if the O ring in the swing pickup has developed a flat spot and is sucking air.

Good luck, this is a tough on!

~JH

I log the asphalt bike with an AIMS dash, and the salt bike with DL-32, etc.  different transducers.

hmmm...

I will check the pickup oring.

Thanks!!!
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Offline Competition CNC

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #12 on: March 06, 2012, 02:31:41 PM »
Karl,  It could also be aeration, foaming and or cavitation of the oil.   I don't know what oil you use but shell rotella and other diesel oils will foam and froth in a high rpm engine because they don't have the anti foaming additives.  Diesel engines don't need anti foaming additives.  also the diesel oils have huge amount of detergents in them to suspend large amounts of carbon and carry it off to the filter.

We also port the oil pumps on the suction and pressure sides.   Sharp edges in the oiling system are never good.

On street engines we don't use the high volume gear.  Like the post by JH says, it ends up just blowing out the relief valve on a normal bearing clearance engine.  However on a race engine you do want to loosten the rod bearing clearances to help cool the crank and rods due to the higher flow of oil.  The HV gear helps bring the pressure back up with the loose bearing clearances.

We use flow meters to monitor the flow to various parts of the engines on our dry sump SB2.2 engines for circle track.  we can actually change oil jets to control flow to different parts of the system for different track types and rpm conditions. 

On your pan  make sure you have at least 3" of oil above the pickup during a sustained run at redline on the dyno.  you may be getting a vortex going into the pickup.  That's bad, very bad.

do your rod bearings show crank contact to the beginning of the chamfer on the parting line?  Foam and froth still cool but the hydraulic film is toast.  and heat is what actually kills the rod bearings to the point of a spun bearing and or rod failure.  so a failure from frothing oil is a slower and steady wearing out.

Jim

Offline entropy

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #13 on: March 06, 2012, 02:47:31 PM »
Jim,
after we talked last time about this issue i did smooth the edges into the pump = no change, but maybe i didn't smooth it enough.

On having 3" of oil above the pickup.....
hmmmmmm...
I doubt it with the Koenig 2"pan, i'll look more closely tonight on the motor on the bench.
I wish Koenig made a 3" pan.

Thanks much for yr help

Karl
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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #14 on: March 06, 2012, 03:03:15 PM »
Jim,
after we talked last time about this issue i did smooth the edges into the pump = no change, but maybe i didn't smooth it enough.

On having 3" of oil above the pickup.....
hmmmmmm...
I doubt it with the Koenig 2"pan, i'll look more closely tonight on the motor on the bench.
I wish Koenig made a 3" pan.

Thanks much for yr help

Karl

How many qts of oil do you run Karl?
Do you have enough clearance to run a stock pan?
Any day on a motorcycle like this that ends just needing parts and labor is a good day.
4.82, 158.67mph 1/8th mile 7.350, 200.32mph 1/4 mile Riding

4.51, 171.75mph 1/8th mile  6.908, 212.83mph 1/4 mile Tuning

Offline TrickTom1

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #15 on: March 06, 2012, 06:36:30 PM »
Karl are yo running Gibbs oil?

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #16 on: March 06, 2012, 06:41:59 PM »
thanks for taking the time to do this JH  :thumb:

Offline entropy

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #17 on: March 06, 2012, 11:50:32 PM »
i am running Joe Gibbs XP-1 oil, but i used to use Motul 330V, same behavior.

I have also tried a stock pan.
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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #18 on: March 07, 2012, 01:33:02 AM »
How much oil are you running Karl ??
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Offline entropy

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #19 on: March 07, 2012, 03:54:43 AM »
How much oil are you running Karl ??
I run it near the top of the sight glass, 4qts+/-

Is that enough?
Too much?
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Offline entropy

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #20 on: March 07, 2012, 03:59:47 AM »
Often wrong, but never unsure!!!!!

Offline glenn71

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #21 on: March 07, 2012, 04:18:58 AM »
Just think karl, if you had a magical oil additive
you wouldnt need oil pressure,problem solved.
lol.
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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #22 on: March 07, 2012, 05:31:36 AM »
Try more,
If you look at the quart in the head, another in windage around the clutch and crank and another in the gearbox  while at high rpm, doesn't leave much at the pickup
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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #23 on: March 07, 2012, 05:46:15 AM »
Glenn: magical additive?  like STP "the racer's edge"? :hys:

Greg:  Texas Mile is coming up, i'll "overfill" by a qt on a run & see what happens.
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Offline Competition CNC

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #24 on: March 07, 2012, 06:15:41 AM »
Karl,  If it was more gradual of a decline then id tend to think it could be oil temp related which is normal.

But as you say its a sudden radical change.

you could put a small ball valve off the main oil gallery and take a sample on the dyno at redline before and just after the change.  I'll bet the second sample will be brown and frothy like a Guinness.  :beechug:

This is exactly why i removed the 2" flat pan and went to the dry sump.  Spinning a zx14 stroker motor well over 12'000 rpm and keeping the bottom end alive is no easy feat.  Its one thing to get the engine to make power up there but another to get it to live there for LSR.

There are conductive sensors for oil level.....   just an idea.
Jim

Offline entropy

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #25 on: March 07, 2012, 11:33:02 AM »
Jim,
It did the same thing on the Factory Pro dyno (long long step at 10000rpm) and the oil went low, but didn't get milkshakey looking. 
How low did it get, don't really remember..

Spinning that 14 to 12K woooeeeee.
I am sure glad you have yr experimental 14's lube problems solved; i wanna see Rickey kick my ass at Loring.
Seems like interest has gone away from big NA motors in asphalt LSR, so i'm counting on YOU!

Conductive tranducer?  hmmmm?? where would i mount it???
Often wrong, but never unsure!!!!!

Offline Johnnnycheese

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #26 on: March 07, 2012, 03:15:21 PM »
fine Karl get her ready and we will load her 8)
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Offline entropy

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #27 on: March 07, 2012, 03:42:48 PM »
fine Karl get her ready and we will load her 8)

perfect, Johnny. :thumb:

We'll use Rust Bucket Roller as a test sled.  In a few weeks it'll be ready for the dyno and have exactly the same oil related stuff Greenie has.
And i thought i was done doing experiments. :hys:
Often wrong, but never unsure!!!!!

Offline Nem

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #28 on: March 08, 2012, 07:01:21 AM »
i am running Joe Gibbs XP-1 oil, but i used to use Motul 330V, same behavior.

I have also tried a stock pan.

Is your sensor hard mounted?  If it is maybe soft mount it and see
 :id:

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Offline glenn71

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #29 on: March 08, 2012, 07:20:19 AM »
yeh i run my oil pressure sensor off the end of a 12" braided line
after my hard mounted one died in no time.
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Offline entropy

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #30 on: March 08, 2012, 07:31:02 AM »
i learned the hard way that hard mounting the pressure sensor is bad juju  :tu:
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Offline Jonny Hotnuts

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #31 on: March 15, 2012, 03:19:36 PM »
It took a few weeks to get back but here is IMO the best Gen I oil mod......



This is a Gen I crank and to my knowledge the first ever to be fluted like a Gen II to improve oiling to the rods. This was done at Marine and looks fantastic. I dont know what it cost of the individual mod was as I also had the crank balanced, nitrated, straighten, maged, oil balls drilled and tapped and had mains fluted. (*it was less then 500$ WITH shipping).

~JH

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Offline Yngve

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #32 on: March 15, 2012, 03:25:12 PM »
It took a few weeks to get back but here is IMO the best Gen I oil mod......



This is a Gen I crank and to my knowledge the first ever to be fluted like a Gen II to improve oiling to the rods. This was done at Marine and looks fantastic. I dont know what it cost of the individual mod was as I also had the crank balanced, nitrated, straighten, maged, oil balls drilled and tapped and had mains fluted. (*it was less then 500$ WITH shipping).

~JH
The GEN I +5mm stroker crank I have in my 1471 busa are fluted like that. I bought it from a member here in 2009. Its a Marine crank but I dont know when it was done.
I dont know what I am talking about but I do know that I am right :)

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #33 on: March 15, 2012, 03:27:44 PM »
JHN i get a lot of red x's from your pics , only a few show , even copy and paste the address does nothing ??
Your a3 and a1 photos show but the sphotos don't 

Nice work though  :D
« Last Edit: March 15, 2012, 03:31:16 PM by Oz Booster »
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Offline Nem

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #34 on: March 15, 2012, 03:41:56 PM »
JHN i get a lot of red x's from your pics , only a few show , even copy and paste the address does nothing ??
Your a3 and a1 photos show but the sphotos don't 

Nice work though  :D

working for me

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #35 on: March 15, 2012, 04:38:42 PM »
 :(  thanks Nem , figured by the comments others were seeing them ok, just my turn to have the incompatable browser
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Offline Jonny Hotnuts

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #36 on: March 15, 2012, 05:03:40 PM »
Quote
thanks Nem , figured by the comments others were seeing them ok, just my turn to have the incompatable browser

Likely an incompatible server.....the pics are straight off Facebook and many companies block FB on the server. Are you looking that this at work???



~JH
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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #37 on: March 15, 2012, 05:09:24 PM »
No but i'm not logged in on FB either
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Offline racerjohn07

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #38 on: August 09, 2012, 07:40:24 PM »
I race my SAE Outlaw Performance Hayabusa on SCCA road courses. It uses the 2" pan, Oberg filter, and aftermarket oil cooler using 1/2" hose lines. Use Amsoil Syn 20W50 after breakin.
As you know road courses are hard on the oiling system.

Checking the oil level for my driving is critical, and "must be done with the motor running [idling] at approx. 2,000 to 2,500 rpm and warmed". Under these conditions "the oil should be 1/4-1/3 up on the sight glass". Of course the level will be over top end of the sight glass when shut off and it drains down. This takes care of the galleries, lines, cooler, head, pan, etc.

This is the recommendation of 600 Racing who builds the Legend Race Cars.

So far this checking of the oil has proven satisfactory for my road racing.


Offline glenn71

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #39 on: August 09, 2012, 08:04:00 PM »
yep i run 5L of oil in my bike after oil pressure logs
showed my oil pressure dip to 14psi on the launch
with 4L of oil in the bike with a mid 1.5 60ft.with 5L it never dips
below about 60psi on the low rpm clutch out point.ive tried
a baffle which helped on the hit, but starved the oil pressure
for longer in the run.
Gen1 the original and the best
8.76@165.42mph so far

Offline badass1000

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #40 on: April 21, 2013, 12:40:42 PM »


Mod 5
Reducing oil to the head.
(this I read about somewhere else….)
There is a through bolt that supplies oil to the head. Now that the pump and regulator flow more if left OEM the head will receive much more oil than needed. Drill and tap the end of the bolt and use a .125 jet to restrict flow.



did you really use a .125 jet or was it a #125 jet? I have used a #125. A .125 jet wouldn't restrict any flow as it is larger than the current hole.

I am getting ready to perform these mods to my gen 2 turbo motor.  Their is the external line to the head that is attached to the cases with a banjo bolt.  so you are restricting the end of the banjo bolt to .125"? 
On my turbo gsxr 1000 engines I restrict the oil to the head to .063".  Oil to the 1000's is a passageway in the cases.  on the top of the case where the headgasket sits. I drill and tap the passageway and put a 1/4X20 set screw in the passageway.  the set screw has a 1/16" (.063")  hole drilled in it.

thank you very much for taking the time to post this.   :tu:

Offline arkie

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #41 on: August 04, 2013, 09:42:55 PM »
 I have read this and just want to ask if the main jet in the banjo bolt works? Is that a Mikuni 125 main jet round or hex ?  or a Kiehn 125 round or hex ?  What kind of pressure changes did it make?  If anyone has input I would appreciate your responce.  Thanks,Arkie

Offline jdperformance

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #42 on: November 06, 2014, 08:00:25 AM »
man most of the pictures are not showing up can anyone repost them or send me a saved file of this??

Offline proutyc

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #43 on: November 06, 2014, 12:58:01 PM »
I'll touch base with the org author

Offline jdperformance

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #44 on: July 13, 2016, 08:18:11 AM »
I'll touch base with the org author

Any update on this just wondering

Offline lee8sec

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #45 on: November 19, 2016, 04:10:52 AM »
Still no photo's showing. Has anyone got the post saved that can repost it? Thanks Leigh
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Offline Bignutzbusa

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #46 on: November 26, 2016, 01:43:49 AM »
also interested in the pics as i'm building a turbo motor

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Re: Oil mods, easy and fun~
« Reply #47 on: November 26, 2016, 10:53:48 AM »
Hey guys, JNuts pulled them down quite a while back because there were folks on this board making a living doing those mods.... You might try sending him a PM or email... I know the wreck at Bonneville in 13 didn't kill him
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