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Author Topic: Building (550+HP) land speed motor from start to finish (pic heavy)  (Read 11980 times)

Offline Jonny Hotnuts

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Head at start....



Exhaust before....



Exhaust after....



Intake...



Welded the emission ports, ported, profiled and port matched.
I used a damaged head that was ported by a known HP maker and with a depth/snap gauge matched the profile. Used an air die grinder with carbide rasp (flame) and finished with conical 1" flap. People make head porting sound like its super difficult.....its not.

At a friends shop cutting the valve seats on a Newen GII. I angle my seats to make HP, and cutting +1mm on the hot side.




Beat to poop plenum before....



Finished plenum after powder....



Also did the fuel cell, and LTA intercooler (Precision Turbo PT 750)



A little carnage....



THis was a bad day. This is the combination of a series of things that made a 'perfect storm'. The worst part was not being able to definitively say what caused the problem. During the rebuild I can say with near certainty that the bearing spun because of the massive amount of clutch material (burned a clutch to unreal levels the previous run) completely loaded the filter and pickup, and this caused starvation.....

The engine ready to drop....


Out with the old....


Chess with dog....


Random pic of wife washing dog for loosing chess match....



Going through every passage to assure no chips remain in oil passages after doing oil mods....



Case studs...



Stuff from APE



Drilling and tapping for .5 cylinder studs....



4 valves replaced after getting knocked up by the piston. Thankfully the piston was already disconnected from the crank when it hit and didnt damage the head-cams.



Bench lashing the valves....


Boy sitting on dog, reaching for foot....dog not sure what to think about that.



Crank boxed and shipped to Marine.



Looking more like a motor everyday!!! Cases powdered (protection from salt)



Hunting zombies....




Rebuilt (cleaned) the gate....



Rods are on the way from Carrillo (week), APE has my pistons and other stuff due Monday, and hopefully Dave from Marine will give me a call any day!!!!










« Last Edit: March 09, 2012, 12:06:36 AM by Jonny Hotnuts »
02 BL/BLK
Garrett T28@7psi

Busa pwrd Bonneville car 208 mph+
2X world record holder
NA motor: 1507cc
Fastest 1.5L NA door slammer in the world

Offline brandon

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fast

Offline Nem

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Nice thread
 :tu:

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Offline moparict

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Following along.

Offline magus

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 :thumb: :thumb: AWESOME 

  Is your clutch asymbly powder coated too?

Offline magus

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are you getting the mains grooved on this one too?

Offline mysticblu999

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Nice! Love the random pics also!!
2007 Hayabusa Super Ultra (in progress)    
2013 Hayabusa Limited (on order)
2008 RM250 (for jumping stuff)


Super Ultra build thread http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/index.php?topic=160376.new#new

Offline Jonny Hotnuts

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Thanks for the nice comments.....

Quote
are you getting the mains grooved on this one too?



The crank fresh from Marine. It does in fact have the Gen II type grooves. It also had the balls drilled and tapped, balanced, straightened and nitrated. Note that I retained the CB gear, this is to retain crank mass even though I am not using the counter balancer. This it to help keep the rpms between shifts.



Wossner turbo pistons and roller conversion.



SAE Outlaw Blockoffs for dry blocking (*I did polish them). Its always been a big problem routing hoses with an aftermarket water pump with the shitty angles coming off the OEM thermostat cover and return. I dont run a thermostat anyway. I am also going to buy of of the water pump block offs come monday.....I didnt even know they were made! I have been using an expanding freeze plug for a BBC!



The RCC cast flange and 90 degree schedule 40 304 SS elbow. Tig welding.....how hard can it really be right!!!!!



Pieces tacked.....



Rods back from Carrillo. In truth I will be running Wossner rods in the future...noting wrong with the Carrillos....its just a choice based on personal reasons.



Header almost done!!!!!



Pistons prepped, rings gaped, studs in.

Note: I purchased one of those fancy-ass ring grinders. I have gaped many rings using 400 grit wet-r-dry and never had a problem.....well my fancy ring grinder was way more aggressive then I thought and I ended up having to call Noonan and get some new rings sent. It takes a bit longer with using the sand paper on a straight edge.....but you will likely never over gap a ring using this method.



Double checking bearing gap. Truth is I hate plasti gauge....but I can sleep unless I do it.



Stretching bolts.
Note the ARP main studs.....I purchased these before I knew drilling the lower case oversized was an option. Was using the APE that are bigger in OD and was causing some loading and misalignment. The ARP are nice however.....



Bottom end getting ready!!!!
Note the sprocket on the output.....and the OEM on the other tranny visible in the pic. Seems huge in comparison!!!!



Those roller sprockets are HUGE!!!!! They barely have enough clearance on the head. They do make installing the cams a bit of a pain but nothing too bad. Before with the OEM chain/gears you could loosen up the adjuster enough to jump a tooth if you were a tooth off.....but NOT with the roller!!!!!


ALSO!!!!!!!!

I dont have pictures or video but I have built a bench rig that drives the motors oil pump. The REASON is because I can put on an oil filter and a few quarts of oil and pump oil through the system, circulating oil though the bearings, filter and pickup. I will include pics of what you will find in the filter on a build that was (at least attempted) to be very clean. I ran 70 psi for about 4 hours without ever starting the motor. After the 'flush' I remove the oil, change the filter, clean the pickup screen and wipe down the pan. I recommend anyone building a motor to do the same.


Currently......

Waiting on my new turbo to be build. Its the Forced Performance HTA GT3582r with Tial hot v-band housing.
An expensive little MFer......and taking what seems like forever (*they did say it would be a while!)

~JH


02 BL/BLK
Garrett T28@7psi

Busa pwrd Bonneville car 208 mph+
2X world record holder
NA motor: 1507cc
Fastest 1.5L NA door slammer in the world

Offline mysticblu999

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This is going to be a awesome build thread  :tu: :tu: :tu:
2007 Hayabusa Super Ultra (in progress)    
2013 Hayabusa Limited (on order)
2008 RM250 (for jumping stuff)


Super Ultra build thread http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/index.php?topic=160376.new#new

Offline Jonny Hotnuts

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This is just some of the fodder I found in the pan after bench running the oil pump for a few hours (note the small stuff around the bend). These are the particles that were so big the pump wouldnt suck them up. I can only imagine whats in the filter when I open it up!

Truth is I have no idea where much of this stuff came from.....everything was new, cleaned, scrubbed and washed. The only thing I can think is that it was logged in some of the heads oil passages (head came off motor that nuked). I even have a 'clean' room to do assembly that I dont let the dog in and has filtered air. Still a ton of shit came out of this....and this pic doesnt do it complete justice!!!! 

Will post a pic of the filter once I cut it open.

I will be doing this process on all future builds.

~JH
02 BL/BLK
Garrett T28@7psi

Busa pwrd Bonneville car 208 mph+
2X world record holder
NA motor: 1507cc
Fastest 1.5L NA door slammer in the world

Offline Jonny Hotnuts

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One of my peeves is that on my oil drains into the pan always seem to leak. It is true that my motors get moved around a bunch, turbos go on and off, I use the turbo drain hose to drain the oil out of the motor during oil changes so the connection gets tweaked and always end up leaking.

The sidewall thickness of the billet pan is pretty small to hold threads and I didnt have luck with O-rings. Plus.....I wanted a way I could unscrew the hose from the pan for a quick oil drain AND put a cap on if I wanted to run the pan on a NA motor.

I cut a 1/4" patch of 6061.



Cut new threads and installed the .5 NTP to -8AN.



I screwed a temp hose on just so any residual oil wouldnt leak out on the floor until my turbo gets in and I can make the real hose.



I am really happy with how this turned out. Always sort of surprised why Koenig didnt included a threaded section designed for turbo drain applications in their pans.

~JH


02 BL/BLK
Garrett T28@7psi

Busa pwrd Bonneville car 208 mph+
2X world record holder
NA motor: 1507cc
Fastest 1.5L NA door slammer in the world

Offline Nem

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Good job
 :tu:

RCC Turbos
Bellman Oil Co.
VP Race Fuels
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Cycle-Tek
Canadian Mike
Power Brokers Racing
Tiger Racing
Shamrock Racing
Rev'd Up Motorsports
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Rock Solid
Schnitz Racing

Offline confused-busa

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Great pics. Cant wait to start my build.  Keep the pics coming.

Offline Jonny Hotnuts

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Re: Building (550+HP) land speed motor from start to finish (pic heavy)
« Reply #13 on: June 19, 2012, 12:01:32 AM »


New FP HTA 3582r. Tial stainless V band hot housing (a good bit smaller then the Garrett) and also note the FP billet oil filter/restrictior in the upper left. Everyone should filter their turbo oil.



Nasty 7 blade billet wheel.



Testing the fit with the new motor cage.



Made a quickie bracket for the air shifter cylinder. This was just a prototype to work out a few things before I make the real one.
02 BL/BLK
Garrett T28@7psi

Busa pwrd Bonneville car 208 mph+
2X world record holder
NA motor: 1507cc
Fastest 1.5L NA door slammer in the world

Offline Jonny Hotnuts

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Re: Building (550+HP) land speed motor from start to finish (pic heavy)
« Reply #14 on: June 19, 2012, 11:39:24 PM »
Because of my configuration in the car and header to change the oil filter I had to pull the entire engine and remove header. With this MPS oil filter relocator I will be able to change the filter in seconds in car!

I should of got one of these a LONNNNNGGGGG time ago!!!

BTW:
MPS is a damn fine company and was really happy with how they handled this transaction.



~JH
02 BL/BLK
Garrett T28@7psi

Busa pwrd Bonneville car 208 mph+
2X world record holder
NA motor: 1507cc
Fastest 1.5L NA door slammer in the world

Offline sportbikeryder

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Re: Building (550+HP) land speed motor from start to finish (pic heavy)
« Reply #15 on: June 20, 2012, 06:14:09 AM »
Be sure the secure the oil filter relocator. We had one start to come loose and almost wore through the oil filter from header contact!

Be mindful of gravity causing the offset weight of the filter to unscrew the assembly from the cases.
Any day on a motorcycle like this that ends just needing parts and labor is a good day.
4.82, 158.67mph 1/8th mile 7.350, 200.32mph 1/4 mile Riding

4.392, 176.79mph 1/8th mile  6.610, 228.15mph 1/4 mile Tuning

Offline Jonny Hotnuts

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Re: Building (550+HP) land speed motor from start to finish (pic heavy)
« Reply #16 on: June 21, 2012, 10:15:28 AM »
Quote
Be sure the secure the oil filter relocator. We had one start to come loose and almost wore through the oil filter from header contact!

Be mindful of gravity causing the offset weight of the filter to unscrew the assembly from the cases.

Even though mine will be pointed mostly 'down' it is still a good idea. What method did you use to secure the relocator?


~JH
02 BL/BLK
Garrett T28@7psi

Busa pwrd Bonneville car 208 mph+
2X world record holder
NA motor: 1507cc
Fastest 1.5L NA door slammer in the world

Offline BusaFrodx

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Nice bike :)
Any updates now?
If you find a spelling error, KEEP IT

99Busa