Author Topic: Billet nitrous manifold (Read 18267 times) Tweet

SLEEPERBUSA · « **on:** April 26, 2012, 01:53:59 PM »

Anybody using this nitrous manifold?
It looks pretty damn trick!!

http://schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=5209100&showprevnext=1

I don't necessarily like this nitrous kit, but if you click on the pictures, it shows a better example of the nitrous manifold!!

http://schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=5207054&showprevnext=1

boofoo · « **Reply #1 on:** April 26, 2012, 08:52:32 PM »

Looks nice would like to see it as a wet setup instead though.

wildphil69 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 27, 2012, 09:22:12 AM »

i know the guy that manufactures those...if you want a wet shot put wet foggers in there pretty simple

gixxre750 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 27, 2012, 05:34:43 PM »

contact HTP, they sell just the manifold. like stated above, just put wet nozzles in it

SLEEPERBUSA · « **Reply #4 on:** April 27, 2012, 08:17:03 PM »

Thanks y'all. Good info.

mysticblu999 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 12, 2012, 09:26:31 AM »

that first one makes me want nitrous

SLEEPERBUSA · « **Reply #6 on:** May 12, 2012, 10:07:18 AM »

Got mine in yesterday.

Nem · « **Reply #7 on:** May 12, 2012, 10:10:02 AM »

badass1000 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 13, 2012, 12:58:02 AM »

Just some tips or some stuff to look out for. the manifold is tapered. the cutout in the center is on top. make sure the manifold seals to the head. On my bike the manifold would not tighten all the way down on top of the head. i would crank the set screws down pretty tight and it would suck the clamp down towards the back. but towards the front it would have about a 1/16" gap between the head and manifold. I could spray starter fluid on it with the bike runing and the idle would go up or down. I put a light coating of silicone on the ruber gasket. tightened it down and cleaned it up. Now I can spray starter fluid and the idle does not change.

SLEEPERBUSA · « **Reply #9 on:** May 13, 2012, 08:31:50 AM »

Thanks for that good info. I'll look out for it.

busa & 12lover · « **Reply #10 on:** May 16, 2012, 10:01:07 AM »

if you're putting wet nozzles in there, you'll have to rethread......just fyi

SLEEPERBUSA · « **Reply #11 on:** May 16, 2012, 03:35:05 PM »

Thanks Steve. I'm just going with a little dry shot.

badass1000 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 16, 2012, 10:14:11 PM »

Why do you you have to rethread for wet nozzles? they are 1/16" npt.

mysticblu999 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 27, 2012, 01:08:51 PM »

Wow that looks nice

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

JC_Biggs · « **Reply #14 on:** July 10, 2012, 02:47:22 PM »

Quote from: SLEEPERBUSA on May 12, 2012, 10:07:18 AM

Got mine in yesterday.

that one looks "slightly" different than the one in the picture on SR. specifically the amount of aluinum jutting out into the air stream.. wonder if they have addressed that with this one.

SLEEPERBUSA · « **Reply #15 on:** July 10, 2012, 03:34:26 PM »

I think the one on the site may be for a GENI Busa???

badass1000 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 11, 2012, 09:41:21 AM »

I just installed a set on a 2011 busa a couple weeks ago and it fit perfectly. sealed to the head good with no modifications needed. I wish mine fit that way.

SLEEPERBUSA · « **Reply #17 on:** July 11, 2012, 01:54:50 PM »

Wow,
I wonder why?
I hope mine fits like that.
How do you like it, other than it not sealing good?

badass1000 · « **Reply #18 on:** July 11, 2012, 11:30:24 PM »

Their was a post in another thread. A place in so cal makes them and they have two different versions. they said they noticed their was two different heads/measurments from the factory. when you order one from them they have you measure the head to see wich one you need. schnitz only sells one version.
It works good other then having to use a little bit of silicone to get it to seal because it does not sit all the way down on the head in the front. manifold to head seal. My head was ported by competition cnc. I don't believe they touched this part of the head at all, but thought the issue might have ben because of the head work untill I read the other post about the place in socal making two different versions and you having to measure your stock head to see wich one you need.
the 2011 busa has a ward performance head on it. Doesn't look like they touched that part of the head at all and sits/seals perfectly.

SLEEPERBUSA · « **Reply #19 on:** July 12, 2012, 02:54:40 AM »

More good info. Thanks.
Did you buy the one on the 2011 from Schnitz?
Mine will be on a 2011 Carpenter head.

Another thing I did, was, I had a guy weld more aluminium where it threads and retap it, so the nozzle tip is barely showing in the port. I dont know how much HP you lose with the obstruction, but I wanted to minimize it.

wildphil69 · « **Reply #20 on:** July 12, 2012, 11:06:37 PM »

Quote from: badass1000 on July 11, 2012, 11:30:24 PM

Their was a post in another thread. A place in so cal makes them and they have two different versions. they said they noticed their was two different heads/measurments from the factory. when you order one from them they have you measure the head to see wich one you need. schnitz only sells one version.
It works good other then having to use a little bit of silicone to get it to seal because it does not sit all the way down on the head in the front. manifold to head seal. My head was ported by competition cnc. I don't believe they touched this part of the head at all, but thought the issue might have ben because of the head work untill I read the other post about the place in socal making two different versions and you having to measure your stock head to see wich one you need.
the 2011 busa has a ward performance head on it. Doesn't look like they touched that part of the head at all and sits/seals perfectly.

hahaha no no no...a member on the board makes them for all of the companies that YOU buy them from they are made in UPSTATE NY and have been tested to 100+PSI with no leaks if you have a leaky one you have something together wrong

JC_Biggs · « **Reply #21 on:** July 12, 2012, 11:09:58 PM »

Quote from: wildphil69 on July 12, 2012, 11:06:37 PM

Quote from: badass1000 on July 11, 2012, 11:30:24 PM
Their was a post in another thread. A place in so cal makes them and they have two different versions. they said they noticed their was two different heads/measurments from the factory. when you order one from them they have you measure the head to see wich one you need. schnitz only sells one version.
It works good other then having to use a little bit of silicone to get it to seal because it does not sit all the way down on the head in the front. manifold to head seal. My head was ported by competition cnc. I don't believe they touched this part of the head at all, but thought the issue might have ben because of the head work untill I read the other post about the place in socal making two different versions and you having to measure your stock head to see wich one you need.
the 2011 busa has a ward performance head on it. Doesn't look like they touched that part of the head at all and sits/seals perfectly.

hahaha no no no...a member on the board makes them for all of the companies that YOU buy them from they are made in UPSTATE NY and have been tested to 100+PSI with no leaks if you have a leaky one you have something together wrong

can you pm me who makes them so i can get one with custom changes.

badass1000 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 14, 2012, 12:46:52 PM »

I can't remember. do a search in the turbo section for billet throttle body clamp or something like that. Rcc has some and so does mr turbo I believe. Their is a machine shop in southern california listed their some where that makes them. you can do a search in advanced features with my username as I believe I made a post in the thread.

Hagarr · « **Reply #23 on:** September 24, 2012, 10:44:33 PM »

I have just fitted to my B-King and so far fits like a treat and no leaking issues as has been reported by others.

My only gripe is the fiddly allen headed grub screws, they could have gone the next size up as they are pretty fiddly.

One more thing is as somebody else mentioned earlier you have to tap the 1/16" NPT NOS threads deeper as the wet Nozzles I fitted wouldn't protrude enough.

Hope to start testing NOS shortly, still tuning with the log box as my mixtures are way off due to the airbox mods and exhaust changes.

SLEEPERBUSA · « **Reply #24 on:** September 25, 2012, 08:13:09 AM »

I actually welded more aluminium to the bung area and retapped the hole, so I have more threads. I also only tapped it deep enough so that the tip of the nozzle is barely sticking in the port.

Hagarr · « **Reply #25 on:** December 06, 2012, 06:38:46 AM »

HHMMMM Not happy Jan!

Had problens on Dyno couldn't tune right .

stripped down checked the setup and found the Manifold is leaking.

having to bomb it with heaps of RTV to get it to seal!

Not happy!

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Author Topic: Billet nitrous manifold (Read 18267 times) Tweet