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Author Topic: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa  (Read 39607 times)

Offline fooorumi

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #25 on: April 04, 2013, 01:31:42 PM »
No bikinis here it's still almost minus 15C degrees every night! According to the news it's the coldest March in ten years!
http://www.foreca.fi/Finland/Lahti

Usually I would be pissed off because of the weather but as I'm still waiting parts for my swingarm, clutch is not installed and the bike is still unpainted it's better that roads are still icy and no one other can drive either  :hys:

Tomorrow I'll receive paints and accessories.. Will be interesting as there is fe. red candy concentrate, chrystal effect liquid and some cool airbrush stencils. I'm still missing airbrush as I sold it some years ago when I was out of money.. I guess I need to get one from somewhere
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Offline mysticblu999

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #26 on: April 04, 2013, 02:39:40 PM »
It still cold here too. Should be 80F by now.

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2007 Hayabusa Super Ultra (in progress)    
2013 Hayabusa Limited (on order)
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Super Ultra build thread http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/index.php?topic=160376.new#new

Offline magus

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #27 on: May 28, 2013, 01:24:16 PM »
any updates?

Offline fooorumi

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #28 on: May 29, 2013, 10:10:18 AM »
Actually yeah there is  :o I have just been so busy with work and free time that I haven't had much time to write here! The bike is now painted and still rocking hard! It's awesome riding a curvy road with a speed limit of around 80-100km/h and just open the throttle and press a little front brake and you could easily drift for kilometres  8) I'll be back on latest mods soon!
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Offline BusaFrodx

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #29 on: May 30, 2013, 05:09:50 AM »
Waiting for photos and maybe a movie...?  :D
 
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Offline fooorumi

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #30 on: July 11, 2013, 12:54:10 PM »
Ciao!

Just came back from 'Eurotrip' with my girlfriend. Driving around the Europe 4030 km through 8 countries incl. Czech, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Slovenia, Italy, Switzerland and Germany for 2 and half weeks. If you have so much money you can't spend all to your busa I reccon travelling to you too  :mrgreen: Over two thousand euros less money in the pocket bike building will be freezed for a time so it's good time writing here..


Bikinis at Bol, Croatia


Continuing with the swingarm: So I chose to buy already 7" streched swingarm from the states. It was advertised as a bolt-on and the price wasn't that bad so I though it would be a good deal..


Problems with the swing began immediatelly when I took it from the package. Paint quality sucked and just putting it in a carbon board box had damaged the paint all over. The whole part including bearings were covered with blasting sand. I decided to get it painted again and was lazy so I said the paint firm worker to cover all bearing so they could be used again. Wrong again. Nothing wrong with paint this time but nothing was done to save the bearing so there was thick layer of paint in all needle bearing which was cooked in an oven when paint was dried. Fcuk. To the bearing store. Purchasing new ones took over a month because of long delivery times and the fact I had to order parts three times because of my stupidity. I always thought I have hurry and didn't concentrate... THERE MUST ALWAYS BE TIME TO DO THINGS CORRECTLY AT THE FIRST TIME!


Finally I got the arm in and to my eyes it looks good in lenght!


Before painting last minute mods were done including making more ground clearance to the fairings which were scraping ground in last season.


I also made outlet for the 'power exhaust'...  :shock:


...which was done by cutting the existing pipe and welding there a straight 2,5" pipe instead


Again I cut cornerns and painted the exhaust by basic matt black hot-proof spray  :)


Painting began by rubbing off the stickers which can be made the easiest by a rubber wheel attached to a drill. This is a very fast method and you must be careful not to dig a hole in there which you later then must put cement in...


Here you can find almost everything which was used when doing the painting. Price tag without tools and mask around 200-250


Here are the fairings sanded and finished with 400-grade paper


Ducktail - because of it's unnecessarity - was always the first part to be painted. Here's epoxy primer before mixing...


...and after spraying. This is around 0,5 - 1 mm thick layer which is then sanded (until 400-grade sandpaper in my case) before spraying anything with color.


On any other part there were no problems but with the chinese tail fairing (and all parts related) some grooves were formed. This was one pain in the ass because of the thick layer this wouldn't have been easy to remove so I decided to cement all grooves.


The really funny thing here was that the grooves were everywhere and because of the tail fairing complex shape both adding cement and sanding were really frustrating. I'm not still sure what caused this trouble but it must be related to the chinese fairing material somehow because this problem was ONLY with it.


After sanding I sprayed the base color which is Titanium (-spray)  :lol: When there are multiple layer of paint and lots of work then one wants to make the job easier somehow... Sometimes I used spray instead of the paint gun because it's just much easier and when using 2K-clear coat on the top the paint job quality will still be high (assuming that compatible high quality products are being used..)

This is all today - I leave you guessing what will be the color of the bike when the base paint color is Titanium?  8)
wetracingcrew

Offline fooorumi

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #31 on: August 07, 2013, 01:01:52 PM »
Okey Hi, here we go again (started already great - picture wrong ways  :x)


Titanium was to be painted by candy red (mixer clear coat + candy concentrate color by SEM). Painting this must have been THE worst circumstances EVER. Because of the nice weather I decided to paint parts outside. mistake! After around 10 mins it started to wind like craZY but as all the equipment were ready to go I decided to continue. The job took a lil longer than I though it would be and after a while sun was about to set and it was getting dark.. Everyone who has painted knows how important good light is for the painting! It was about to get even worse in the very end and it also started raining and at this point I had to hurry to get parts inside for cover. As I continued painting with the very last part - ducktail, which I saved last because of it's kind of unnecessarity to riding - I ran out of paint.... Only the other side of the ducktail was left without complete layer of paint! fcuk! I was thinking I need to repaint everything but left all the parts to the garage waiting to dry up.


Next day I checked the fairings and put them on the bike. Surprisingly enough I found that surfaces wasn't THAT bad and because I was going to paint more layers because of the special painting I had in my mind I decided to leave them alone. Only the fact that ducktail was missing paint was a pain in the ass.. However I was very happy with the color - I had tried some years ago that very same candy concentrate but it was sprayed on a bright silver then. The result now is very deep red which turns into purple when watched further away. In dark conditions it even looks black and makes awesome effect in my opinion.


While the fairing were away for the painting there was good time changing the clutch. A second-hand 2-stage clutch setup by MTC came from the states. Hell of a cost but it's easy to see the difference to the original parts!


When started painting the bike I didn't have a clear vision what I was exactly going to but rather a plenty of ideas which could be cool. First I wanted that bike overall color should be dark - not completely black. There also must be some special color used but not too much - so I painted the base with candy concentrate but wanted to draw a line somewhere and let the rest be black. I'm might be the worst photoshopper ever so I tested my idea the own way: painted a piece of paper with black and tried to tape that to the areas I considered should be black. It looked like shit and I'm not sure if there was any help doing this but I decided still to paint the lowest part of side fairings black.


I also wanted some special paintings / details to the bike but my skills with the airbrush hasn't been trained in a while so I ended up using a skull stencil found at Egay  :mrgreen: This was also painted by spray because of the easiness..


Here comes there creepy thing: Next what was about to be done was to spray caustic on all of the fairings! Well, I'm not 100% sure if it's caustic (sold by chrystallization effect paint or whatever) but it sure looks like it and also have heard it's pure caustic. So be alert doing this at home!  :grn:


The tank again.. Didn't want to have a strict line between the skull and the chrystallized surface so I just decided to spray the caustic around carefully without covering the skull at all.. I must say adding the effect isn't easy - actually this looks very different than it should because the caustic was just running down the tank. According to my tests I believe that to get perfect chrystal effect you need to be able to spray a solid thin layer of caustic which then is dried at once from an edge to the other maybe by a hot air drier. This stage of the painting couldn't have been done again so I left this alone as it kind of works still as you'll see later.


When one thinks that painting couldn't go any more strange we'll proceed to the next stage! Everything was painted by MATT BLACK SPRAY  :hys: 'No worries mom I know what I'm doing!' I guess


And - If I could say - the final stage of the chrystallization painting: Everything is to be sanded by a fine-grade scotch-brite. Here are the parts ready...


...for the clear coat. These fumes aren't too healthly so be smart!


Finally there can be seen light in the end of the tunnel! On the seat cowl some chrystallization effect can be seen even though it could be better. Anyway the contrast between black and candy red looks good and a kind of 3D-effect can be seen. After all I'm happy with the result.

http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/fooorumi_fin/media/13050270_zps802408f5.mp4.html
I must say it's impossible to take good pictures of this paint and it's the best when you can watch it from different angles and in different light. Sometimes it looks red, black, purple and even brownish depending on from where you look at it. Combined with the not so good mobile camera it doesn't much enhance the view!

Here finally some shots of the result:











To be continued...  :shock:
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Offline Got-Busa?

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #32 on: August 07, 2013, 01:50:15 PM »
Looks GREAT! :thumb:
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Offline Mike-Nightrider

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #33 on: October 23, 2013, 02:54:41 PM »
Nice bike  :tu:
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Offline Gixer les.

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #34 on: October 25, 2013, 02:59:58 PM »
Excellent work.
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Offline Pan

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #35 on: October 27, 2013, 05:48:37 AM »
Let us know how it goes this summer... and little problems you come across, long road rides, drag racing, etc...
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Offline mike46

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #36 on: October 30, 2013, 07:06:33 AM »
 One of the guys (from Turku) I help out knows Sami Vittaniemi's wife quite well . Sami is multi time Pro Street champ if I remember correctly
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Offline fooorumi

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #37 on: November 05, 2013, 01:06:30 PM »
Let us know how it goes this summer... and little problems you come across, long road rides, drag racing, etc...

Hi there!

The season here is over now and the bike was running like a champ again. It was street riding only though but the redline was rocking like Skid Row and did some long-distance drifting on higher gears 3th and 4th with no problems at all (expect the rear tire premature wear of course). The only minor failure was that after standing still for around three weeks when I fired her up there was gas leaking all over... I believe what happened was that fuel in the pipe line was vaporized causing rubber to shrink and connections to get loose. This has happened to me before in older bikes with carburators and their seals. After a while being in touch with gasoline rubber will expand and seal again well. I just checked/tightened every fuel line connection and the problem was fixed, temporarily. I think I need to re-do all the fuel lines with proper fittings (AN-connectors maybe) to avoid problems after pause in riding.

One small mod that I made on summer was for the rear 'brake'. In the spring when I was teaching my GF for the motorcycle driving licence I had to take some lessons also my self. One sentence I remember well was when the teacher said that in an effective braking the rear wheel can actually be off the ground a bit. Later at the garage after a twelve-pack of beer or so I was watching the ugly looking rear brake system. Why the hell there must be lots of ugly hoses and cylinders all around the swingarm when in an effective breaking the wheel is off the ground and I don't even ever use that thing?? Took around one hour to take dimensions and maybe one more to draw by CAD new "rear rotor" and a sleeve to replace the rear caliber holder thing. The result can be seen in the picture.. Is it too clever to take rear brake system off?? I hear it many times but worked well for the whole summer. Also wanted to add the text just to confuse more  :mrgreen: And by the way was it so that speedway bikes (practically drifting all the time) doesn't have rear brakes for safety reasons?  :lol:



mike46, I believe you are right about Mr. Vittaniemi but I can't give you much more info as I'm not in too deep in drag racing. I know most of the Finland's quickest and high hp-bikes are tuned at his premises. At the moment I believe he's also the most experienced guy in Finland to tune by EcuEditor. I can only give excellent feedback about his services / expertise; Warm greetings to Sami if someone knowing him is reading this right now!  :thumb:

Regarding further bike building I'm now in a problematic situation as my long term building place was taken away from me... The company where I kept my stuff went bankruptcy so I had to relocate my tools, bikes and all away.. Everything's now packed in a small garage where I don't have room to do a shit! After this it was too close we rented a renovated garage just perfect for bike building - expect we would have needed 5 to 7 bike builders to afford it and we only had 3 sure candidates.... I cannot believe where have all the bikers gone as some years ago it was hard to get everyone fit in because of so many interested... Maybe we're getting older and people are getting children and married and all that crap.... Maybe I should comply...  :|

Also what happened to me lately was that I kind of half-accidentally ended up with a new 27-foot project which is probably going to be a great pain in the ass for the next (5-7) months  :hys: While on lunch my colleague started talking of a pile of glass fiber he wanted to get rid of as it had been lying in his mother's blueberry bushes for too long - at least for last three years the yacht had not even been in water at all. The price - which I have not even paid yet and cannot afford to pay for the next half year or so - was still so friendly I just couldn't resist taking the challenge.. Now I need at least re-paint the bottom, sand and give every wooden part a nice new clear coat or oil layer, fix the engine, renew all interior fabric and so on... I'm not yet realized if I'm stupid or really stupid but from somewhere these insane projects keep coming. And oh yeah there was also that one 750 intruder in garage waiting for complete overhaul  :mrgreen:

« Last Edit: November 05, 2013, 02:04:52 PM by fooorumi »
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Offline busaboyn2o

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #38 on: November 15, 2013, 06:20:39 PM »
Man this build looked absolutley amazing. I am about to undergo a similar build. Any tips you can share? Big hang ups you ran into? (I am pretty knowledgable in the shop, but never built a boosted bike before).

Eitherway, I am just awestruck. The damn thing looks awesome.
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Offline fooorumi

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #39 on: November 18, 2013, 01:03:57 PM »
Well for advice I would say decide your budget and multiply it by pi (3,14 or so..)  :mrgreen: On the other hand if I had known the price tag of the motor I may not have started building it in the first place.

I'm not sure if can give you good tips but I can tell you what I did wrong. Let today's talk be dedicated to the failures:


Relocated engine water cooler inside the rear fairing. Manufactured a complete steel rear cage and modified the cooler. The idea was to get more room for air/air-intercooler. I wanted to fit a large A/A-cooler but in some point realized it was just stupid. Then I searched for alternatives and ended up with W/A-intercooled. This could have been avoided by clear thinking and not trying to reinvent the wheel again.


Before knowing anything about sizing the turbo I already had bought three. Again - first read and learn, then do. It's cheaper than vice versa, and more interesting.


The first exhaust manifold was of a too large diameter pipe. I had problems to do the bends and the result wasn't too glorious. Later I learned that actually smaller diameter (or similar to port size) is much better. And the overall design wasn't optimal - not taking into account the possible reverse flow (overlap). I also added external wastegate as I though that would be cool. However that wasn't really needed and it just added the complexity of the build and probably would have disturbed the exhaust flow in the collector part. This was also made of stainless steel which added costs. Not the way to go.


The lesson of this picture is never assume anything. I bought this T28 turbo from a guy who knew my friend knew well. Also the turbo was 'checked by a professional' and the price was OK so I bought it for 700 euros. I couldn't see the twisted nut and the blades looked perfect inside the exhaust side. I doubted to open and check the turbo because it was said to be checked and OK. Also I had never done it before so I was scared to twist the blades or break it someway. Curiosity took over me however and I took away the exhaust side cover and saw this - completely melted blades caused by lean mixture I guess. The next day I met the guy and asked the money back.


Sometimes things you think are easy are anything but. To be honest I tried maybe 5 different solutions to build turbo oil drain pipe. I couldn't find pipe and fittings large enough, then there were connectors that always were always pointing in wrong directions, I drilled a hole in the sump on the wrong side and so on... Finally I ended up with just simple go-through fitting, some basic hose and clamps  :shock: Still holds together...


This mod+ harder springs was due to all writing online that the clutch is chattering or doing something that I had even never experienced myself (as I'm practically only street riding). Before even testing this welded hub I was again reading comments that actually this ain't working with turbos.... fcuk again I did some unnecessary job just because I didn't concetrate and wanted to move forward with the build. I never used the hub and bought a second-hand original clutch cam set.

There was also one unforeseen source of cost: Almost the complete building time of the bike I though I could run Suzuki's own ECU with 4 large injectors and a map-sensor. I didn't pay too much attention there because I though first I build mechanics and then we can take a look at the boost enrichment. Well I was wrong and had to buy an expensive additional injector controller (McXpress) and fit 4 extra injectors in. Cost for this was easily over 1000 euros and needed extra work. Maybe one of the biggest challenges these days with the internet is to find the most relevant and updated information.

There are certainly more where I have screwed up but these are just some I remembered...  Hope you had fun reading  :mrgreen:
wetracingcrew

Offline blinddog

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #40 on: March 31, 2014, 10:04:32 AM »
Awesome DIY work :tu: :tu: :tu:

Offline HOS

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #41 on: April 02, 2014, 05:14:20 AM »
Top job !
Thanks for sharing  :D
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Offline fooorumi

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #42 on: October 03, 2014, 01:18:37 PM »
Mates

This project is now officially finished and sold to a new hopefully lucky owner in Finland who during the winter starts to modify it for speed runs. I heard probably the fairings must go and new extended tail fairing will be installed. Other modifications - more power. I'm not sure if the new owner is interested continuing the story here, let us see!

Thanks for all comments and encouraging feedback I've received during the last couple of years. Now it's time to focus on new interests  8)
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Offline Strengi

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #43 on: October 23, 2014, 04:31:26 PM »
Well, hello!

Like fooorumi said, he sold the bike, to me.  :thumb:

Project keeps going on, main focus to this winter is to get the bike registered for the changes thats been done, and get it fully street legal.
But like said before, i like drive standing mile.
Foorumi did great work with the bike, and i dont want to do that all again, yet.
So i focus on small changes and modifications to get bike registered, and make it even more reliable. And little bit better performing on standing mile  :wink:

One thing needed to make it legal in finland, is full lenght exhaust with silencer.
Started to do it from 3" stainless, and at the same time put Tial MV-R 44mm wastegate straight to exhaust housing.

Also fitted Robinson support bearing for output shaft, Robinson high volume oil pump gear and high pressure oil regulator. Just to make sure that output shaft can take the beating now, and in the future with maybe much more power. With the oiling thing, i just think that more is better, as long as there is no need to start the bike from cold. (under 10c?)

Hopefully you still like it, i keep updating when i get something done  :)

Offline trunkbuster

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #44 on: October 24, 2014, 04:31:10 AM »
Thanks for keeping the story going :tu:
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Offline Strengi

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #45 on: October 24, 2014, 09:32:15 AM »
Next thing to think is shaping of watercooled plenum, or "nose" of it, where air comes to core.
I have noticed that in BigCC and RCC plenums its pretty much like in this one.
But im thinkin that if nose parts continues forward in triangle shape, and pipe comes to it straitght from bottom, pretty much at 90 degrees angle. Air flow would smash onto top wall of plenum, and divide better to to whole surface area of the core? Am i rigt, or is there something i dont understant at all?  :D

Hopefully you understant what im trying tell, my english is not too great    :shock:

Offline fooorumi

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #46 on: November 01, 2014, 10:18:15 AM »
I would say an extra curve in the pipe line would just increase pressure losses which we all would like to avoid. In the other words you then need more boost just to overcome that pressure loss. I believe the major plenum builders do the described approach to avoid cutting the frame. If you want to have less curves you got to cut the frame.

Anyway where the inlet pipe is stretched for the core air slows down which contributes to more equal air distribution. If you're interested in fair share of air in every cylinder you could install some sensors in each exhaust pipes. If I remember correctly they like to do pressure and temperature logging.

New exhaust pipes looks pretty neat by the way  8)
wetracingcrew

Offline Strengi

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #47 on: November 13, 2014, 12:32:40 PM »

Realized that my China Tial blow off came with stainless adapter collar (is that right?), so had to made few from alu, at same time made attachment parts for boost temp sensors.

Also got most of the electrics now, there was already PLX afr gauge, so i bought PLX egt and oil temp boxes, to be seen at same gauge. Also got AEM aq-1 datalogger from my friends dragbike, will probably log, boost temp, oil pressure, egt, afr, engine rpm and both wheels rpm.

There is alot of work in progress, hopefully get something ready soon, will post pics  :)

Some sad news also. This project changed to kind of therapy project week ago, when my great friend and partial owner of this bike lost his fight against cancer and passed away, at age of 34. :cry:
He always wanted things to be done properly, and thats what i try to do now to respect his memory.

Offline Strengi

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #48 on: August 23, 2015, 07:58:59 AM »
Long time no writing.

Few more pics from last winter:

New 0-6 adjustable swingarm:



3" Stainless exhausta, silencer was painted black later:


PLX Devices found their place:

Offline Strengi

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Re: Just another try to build a low cost diy turbo busa
« Reply #49 on: August 23, 2015, 11:57:07 AM »
Already over 3000miles this summer, thats more than ever before on any bike.
Wondering why i didint get busa couple years earlier.  :wink:

Few pics from summer:
From 800mile summer trip to Turku archipelago.

From same trip, leaving Alastaro circuit pit area. Got enough bags.  :mrgreen:

Shiny after washing. Almoust missing matt black, it was always clean enough.  :wink:

Standing mile at Halli airfield, 211.88mph.