"Bench Setting" Cam to Bucket Clearances? What's the process?

[Daveeed]

Question...
Whenever I've had a port or valve job done, I have always had the shop set the cam to bucked clearances while the head is on the bench because I'm a lazy ass and don't wanna mess with setting 16 valves. Checking and resetting cam clearances during normal maintenance is not the issue.
I'm lapping my valves and installing new seals on my 1 year old Ward ported head because I'm anal and want the valve seal to be good before I install a new set of Web .415/.395 cams.

I'm curious to understand the process for "bench setting cam to bucket clearances.

I'm guessing I install the valves and cams into the head like normal (with all the valves, springs, keepers and crap) while the head is on the bench, and then somehow rotate the cam with a wrench until the valve in question can be measured.

Will the cam want to rotate into a position with the lowest valve spring pressure, and then I got to rotate the cam to the position desired?

What are the correct tools to rotate the cams and hold them in place while measuring the clearances for a specific valve?

I appreciate your advice in advance!

Daveeed
Walnut Creek, Ca.

[sportbikeryder]

I've never used any special tools...10mm wrench on the adjustable sprocket bolts and a set of feeler gauges.

[Daveeed]

Cool! I shoulda figured there was nothing special about it. I'll give it a go!
Thanks!
Daveeed
Walnut Creek, Ca.

[badass1000]

I have never shimed a head unless it was installed and the engine all together.  don't know why...  that is just the way I have always done it.  it would be easier to shim the head alone then when the engine is together, cam chain installed, removeing the tensioner, etc..  every time I remove the cams to change shims...  I got a head sitting here that I just got back from APE.  Maybee I will give it a try.  Then just double check when it is all assembled.  assembled or not assembled should not change any thing.  Just anal like that. 

[sportbikeryder]

I just did mine last night...I installed it first, then shimmed. Haven't put teh cam chain on just (just make sure the pistons are sitting mid cylinder when you install and rotate the cams).

[fubar569]

did mine both times on the bench.

good set of feeler gauges and a wrench or flat head to turn the cams. it's not difficult...just takes forever either way. I'm usually very picky on my tolerances.

couldn't imagine doing them IN the bike. forget that noise. it's tight enough in there...

[badass1000]

I said I never shimed a head unless it was installed....  sounds like I meant the engine in the bike. I meant head installed on the engine. I always shim the head as I am assembling the engine.  Before I install it. If I am just shiming the head then I leave the engine in the bike. yes it is a pain, but less work then removeing the engine to make it easier to adjust the valves.   

Good idea sportbikerider.  never thought of that.  I always turn the motor over by the crank.  cam chain hooked up to rotate the cams.   I just get stuck doing things a certain way.

[genarr3]

I turn the cam using a screwdriver on the cam gear. Head off motor on bench.

[wildphil69]

just make SURE you are between 60-70* in your shop if colder all your clearances will be tight ask fubar

[fubar569]

just make SURE you are between 60-70* in your shop if colder all your clearances will be tight ask fubar

pretty much. If doing it in an excessively cold environment make sure you set the tolerances towards the HIGH end of the table...

I did mine when the garage was about 45 degrees and by the time the head sat overnight in a 70* room the tolerances tightened up almost .002 to .003...

[knecum]

Time consuming?? 15 mins your done.. you should be able to take the meas and get it on the next try. I like  to keep mine a .001-.002 from each other, but the only way to do it is to have a good selection of factory shims also, that have 2.52, 2.58, 2.62 etc. And not just .05 increments.

[fubar569]

Time consuming?? 15 mins your done.. you should be able to take the meas and get it on the next try. I like  to keep mine a .001-.002 from each other, but the only way to do it is to have a good selection of factory shims also, that have 2.52, 2.58, 2.62 etc. And not just .05 increments.

we saved all the factory ones from my Gen 2. pretty sure all of mine are within those tolerances.

I'm sure the more and more we get into this kind of thing we'll build up a nice collection.

[entropy]

Like Steve, i prefer to get to .001-.002" across all valves.

Suzuki sells e.g. 250-255-260 (9.5mm also fits Zx12, Zx14)
but Honda sells the "in between" sizes, e.g. 252, 258, 262

so over a few years i built up a complete collection from 120 to 350, most of the range has the "in between" sizes.
total # shims = something like 600-900? shims, at about $3-5 per shim = something like $3000 in shims

But, it is very satisfying setting up a head just the way i want it

[Daveeed]

Dang, it would suck if you dropped those boxes and they went everywhere.

DD

[entropy]

Dang, it would suck if you dropped those boxes and they went everywhere.
DD

DD,
LOLOLOL
yes that would purely suck.

I would prob like to sell em as i don't have any bikes now, but who the hell needs em enough to pay me anything?

It just takes a few more days waiting on the exact shims needed.
But at 2am i like to finish the job and not wait at all.

[sportbikeryder]

Damn Karl, that's quite a collection.

I have nothing like that, but still get the same things...one bin will be nearly or completely empty, and two bins over will have 10 shims in it.

[knecum]

Thats all you guys have?  lol