Hays setup in lockup mode.

[Turbo G]

Just would like to know what has worked best for you guys. Light static,versus heavy static, weights gearing etc. just trying to get a feel of whats going on with the clutch and what it seems to like in coralation with each persons setup.

[Turbo G]

Im having trouble finding that sweet spot. either its too lazy or its too aggressive. static has been set as low as 5500 rpm to 7000 rpm.

turbo bike
320 hp
ams 1000
cut frame rails
18-45 gearing
brocks shock
sh. hookup tire
250 in street clothes

initial setup was 3 orange springs with all t6 springs and 5 washers on each arm. left at 5500 rpm. bike seems to be lazy out the gate and doesnt start to come on until half track. took off weight from 3 of the arms and it still was lazy. added 1 more orange spring but still was lazy.

anybody have any ideas? I think I need to get my rpms up leaving so I can put more of a load on the turbo out the gate.

[sportbikeryder]

You say it is lazy...are you burning up clutch plates? If it isn;t burning up the clutch from dragging it out too long, you may just not have enough power in it. With as much weight as you have and since you have all 6 arms installed, it is probably lockingup pretty quick and you aren't making enough power to make the clutch slip or enough to accelerate the bike. 

If you don't have a logger on the bike, it is probably going to be tough to get it worked out by yourself.

I'd take off some weight, and maybe even take off two or three of the lockup arms, and leave at 7000-7500 with the clutch stack set to about ~.120-.130 airgap.

Are you using a 2 step or just rolling the throttle? You need to be sure you get it wide open and be sure you let the clutch go with a smooth but rapid release (or you can set it up to let it fly it you want).  If you hang onto the clutch lever, you will likely not get it right. Lever needs to be out and the throttle wide open for the clutch to do its thing.

[Turbo G]

No 2 step. and letting the clutch fly while trying my best to rip the throttle off the handle bar. I always make sure the throttle is locked out. I can feel it hit the throttle stop when I leave.

[Turbo G]

also I say its lazy as in its just not gettting out the gate. Just too tame until half track. No its not burning up plates. I dont think its slipping enough actually because it takes too long for the rpms to climb in my opinion. I may be wrong but shouldnt the rpms be jumping to a set rpm right at the hit? Mine slowly climbs.

[sportbikeryder]

also I say its lazy as in its just not gettting out the gate. Just too tame until half track. No its not burning up plates. I dont think its slipping enough actually because it takes too long for the rpms to climb in my opinion. I may be wrong but shouldnt the rpms be jumping to a set rpm right at the hit? Mine slowly climbs.

That is what I was getting at. Your bike isn;t making enugh power to accelerate the bike or slip the clutch because it is locking way too much.

Like I said, I'd remove 2 or three of the arms all together and try it at 7000-7500 rpm. 

[Turbo G]

Ok I will give that a try. So my target static should be around 7000 to 7500 rpm? flashing or stalling about 9500?

[sportbikeryder]

Ok I will give that a try. So my target static should be around 7000 to 7500 rpm? flashing or stalling about 9500?

That's about what I had in the past.

[Turbo G]

Do you think I should give it more gear. say a 48 rear sprocket?

[trevor]

Im running a carpenter 230 hp motor, 7 over, geared at 16/42..
.I found was the 3 orange springs, and all 6 springs on the t6, and using 4 washers on the arms, couldn't get any speed out of it. Went back to base tune with 6 orange springs. Launched at 5500rpm. Still bogged alot. Found as I raised the rpm it helped. Got to a 1.555 60', and ran a 9.01. Still dragging the rpm down a bit at launch.  Gonna try to raise 2 step to 7500.  I agree with the earlier post,it really is important to get the throttle wide open, to keep from bogging the motor down. I find the 2step helps with this.

[trevor]

Have you asked tim? I just purchased mine, kinda confusing to understand how it all works together

[Turbo G]

I was trying to tune on the heavier side with weight so I wouldnt burn up clutches but I think thats where I was going wrong. Im going to take the weight off and tune from the other end. hope I dont fry too many clutch packs.

[sportbikeryder]

Unless you are extrememly light on weight, it is difficult to burn up a clutch with an engine driven lockup, provided you dont drive through it up top and you half enough sense to lift teh throttle if it is judt driving through teh clutc at the hit.

If the clutch doesn't hit hard, the rpm's will rapidly rise. At teh same time, the arms will fly out and make contact with the pressure plate and start to add force. Even if the engine zings to 11,000 rpm before the arms have enough force, it will still add load to the clutch and prevent the clutches from frying. Obviously you can go too light and never have anough clutch, but that is where teh judgement comes in and you just lift the throttle.

When tuning, be sure to keep an eye on your clutch stack and make sure you maintain it close to your initial target.

[Turbo G]

Yes I always abort a pass if it doesnt feel right. I plan to basically try and get my 60 ft and maybe 330 if the 60 feels good. once I get it to rev and come out like I want do I add weight to the arms first or should I add more static?

[Turbo G]

Wich I know adding weight to the arms lowers static but just want your opinion on which part to tackle first. I was thinking more static pressure.

[sportbikeryder]

Yes I always abort a pass if it doesnt feel right. I plan to basically try and get my 60 ft and maybe 330 if the 60 feels good. once I get it to rev and come out like I want do I add weight to the arms first or should I add more static?

Once you get it to rev and come out like you want it to, you don't do anything other than document what you have so you can repeat it and keep your stack ht where it is.

[sportbikeryder]

Wich I know adding weight to the arms lowers static but just want your opinion on which part to tackle first. I was thinking more static pressure.

I'm not following..."I know adding weight to the arms lowers static "

[Turbo G]

What I was saying by coming out like I want it to I was meaning it wasnt lazy but actually starting to show signs of improvement. but to make more of a improvement I would need more of fine tunning it or making more adjustment to a certain area.

with that being said I was asking should I look at adding more static or should I play with the arm weight for fine tunning? Im sure I would probably end up messing with both but which would you address first.

like if the bike comes out and pulls a 1.5 60 and arms come in past the 330. Do I add stattic or should I add weight?

[sportbikeryder]

There is a third part to the equation, the one that makes the engine driven lockup clutches diffferent from the older sliders...the springs on teh arms to hold the arms in. These springs, combined with the weight on the arms are what controls the lockup.

Both stiffer springs and less weight will delay lockup, while less spring and/or more weight will make the lockup occur more quickly.

[Turbo G]

I was thinking along the lines of 6 orange under the hat with 3 arms with nut bolt and one washer to start with. or should I go with 3 orange springs under the hat?

[sportbikeryder]

I was thinking along the lines of 6 orange under the hat with 3 arms with nut bolt and one washer to start with. or should I go with 3 orange springs under the hat?

I'd use all 6 static springs.

You really need to juet loosen it up, give it a shot, and go from there. If it bogs, loosen it up some more. If it zings, lift the throttle, putt down the track, and tighten it up.  Having a logger on the bike would tell you if you are really at WOT and wodul allow you to look at the engine speed trace to see if it is dipping down or climbing.

[Turbo G]

I was thinking along the lines of 6 orange under the hat with 3 arms with nut bolt and one washer to start with. or should I go with 3 orange springs under the hat?

I'd use all 6 static springs.

You really need to juet loosen it up, give it a shot, and go from there. If it bogs, loosen it up some more. If it zings, lift the throttle, putt down the track, and tighten it up.  Having a logger on the bike would tell you if you are really at WOT and wodul allow you to look at the engine speed trace to see if it is dipping down or climbing.

Thanks. I will try all 6 springs with very little weight.

[trevor]

I thought I had too much static with 6 org springs, but when I put in three, my 60 ft went way down and it was burning up clutch plates.  Use all 6 and get it wot! I really had a hard time chasing the throttle fast enough leaving without the 2step.. 2step makes sure it's wot.  I am going through the same learning curve rite now, had the same issue. Start at 6000 and if it still bogs..or pulls the engine rpm down, raise in 500 rpm increments and I think you'll notice it get better. I'm now at 7000 and it needs more

[viperbluebusa]

What would b the best multi stage setup for a 1397 hayabusa big cams and head work got 60' down to 1.43 but I no there is more there I weigh 230 suited bike is extended 10"

[talegria]

My Hays was "lazy" until i started leaving at higher RPM's. I leave on a two step at 8k with throttle locked wide open and I throw my clutch in one smooth motion. Best was a 1.37 and I was happy with that. I still have all six arms still on mine with extension springs on all of them, without the extension springs mine will smoke the tire for 10-20 feet.