Are any of these muti-stage clutches adjustable for the Gen II bikes.............adjustable as in how much force to activate and when?
Or do you just install it and go? Thinking about unwanted slippage now.
Most all of the clutches can be setup as a basic functioning lockup. The multistage offers additional settings (if desired), and the engine driven clutches even more additional tuning, with positive engagement and slip control based on engine rpm.
The "snowflake" and "2 stage" are the same thing. Simple arms that increase force with greater shaft rpm.
Multi stage, either the familiar MTC, or others that have small springs on some or all arms, delay some of the arms, requiring higher shaft rpm before exerting the force (slipping the clutch during a hard drag style launch)
Both the snowflake and multi stage clutches are driven off if transmission input shaft speed, NOT engine rpm. If the clutch does not have enough static to move the bike when the clutch is released, the bike literally won't move (much) and instead can just sit there and fry the clutch.
Either style is absolutely fine for street use, and when used with stock type static springs, allow for a clutch that has a stock feel when cruising light to light, but offers extreme clamping force at high(er) transmission input shaft speeds. On the street, they are basically the equivalent of extremely heavy clutch springs without the hard pull and holding when stopped. For race use, they both can be setup differently to make the bike leave the line better.
Engine driven clutches are much like a mini bike clutch. A Gen2 MTC, Hayes, Rock, Gann, etc engine driven clutches are all pretty much functionally the same. Higher engine rpm= higher force on the clutch pressure plate. The weights are attached to the outer clutch basket and spin as the engine is revved, even with the lever pulled in.
Using an engine driven clutch on the street, while certainly doable, is not the same as a conventional clutch. Depending on settings, An engine driven clutch could actually start engaging at very high rpm by pulling the clutch lever out of your hand and taking off (like a minibike / gocart). The transmission shaft clutches cannot do this.
A full slider clutch is engine rpm driven and uses ONLY this to launch the bike. At low rpm, there is no clutch contact at all, at a higher, set rpm, the clutch starts engaging. No clutch lever to over ride it at all, and only for racing. Regardless if what anyone says, a conventional full slider should not be used on the street.