Haybusa Parts and Service Member Support

Author Topic: Electrical Issues  (Read 5919 times)

Offline Ghost-Geezer

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Electrical Issues
« on: November 27, 2016, 03:43:00 PM »
Went for a brisk ride Friday and was pulling 11K in 4th and went to hit the air shifter and bike would not shift except manually; all my gages dropped to zero.  No turn signals.  No running light or brake light.  Headlight stayed on and got the bike home.  Would not idle.  Charged the battery overnight and now the fuel pump will not even come on when you turn on the ignition and starter is dead.  Headlight dims when you hit the starter whether the ignition switch is flipped to run or kill.

Blown fuse?  Any ideas?

Book sez fusebox is under the seat but not on this bike.  It is a 2014.  Would the box be under the left upper faring perhaps?   Dunno.

Help appreciated.

Dave
« Last Edit: November 27, 2016, 03:44:48 PM by Ghost-Geezer »
"The thrill of Boost cannot be duplicated on earth."

"One drink is too many and a thousand is not enuf."

"Step UP or Step Aside"

"Four wheels moves the body,
Two wheels moves the soul."

Offline HOS

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2016, 04:37:33 PM »

I'd suggest getting the battery checked first from the description.
OE Busa batteries on the gen 1 were not good, I dont know if they are equally rubbish on the gen2?
I killed 3 stock Busa batteries on the S/C gen 1 and then upgraded to a race type battery.
I have no more sh*ts to give.

Offline sportbikeryder

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #2 on: November 27, 2016, 07:51:23 PM »
Dave, got the message at the shop tonight. Check your kickstand switch. Not sure if it is still wired in, but it could cause the issue or similar.  Jiggle the switch itself. There is a connector near the switch.  Remove the connector and place a jumper wire between the terminals on the chassis side plug and try it. There could be an issue with the gear position switch as well not showing neutral which will prevent the main relay from energizing when the side stand is down, even if the bike is in neutral. Jumping the side stand circuit should temporarily eliminate any issue with the neutral switch as well since the side stand will be "up" and the neutral switch will be out of play.


Fuses of course can be an issue as well as you noted.

There is a "main" fuse located next to the starter solenoid as well. If there is headlight Power at all I doubt that is the culprit.

As for the headlight going off when the starter button is depressed, that is normal. The switch is wired to kill the headlight during cranking to reduce load on the electrical system while the starter is engaged. This was added in 02 or 03 I believe.

John
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Any day on a motorcycle like this that ends just needing parts and labor is a good day.
4.82, 158.67mph 1/8th mile 7.350, 200.32mph 1/4 mile Riding

4.392, 176.79mph 1/8th mile  6.610, 228.15mph 1/4 mile Tuning

Offline sportbikeryder

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2016, 07:52:57 PM »
In addition to all of that, this could be a tip over switch issue as well. Not sure if the tip over switch flag was eliminated when the Ecu was reflashed. This is a little more difficult to check / troubleshoot. If the dash is not functioning, I doubt the tip over is the issue.
Any day on a motorcycle like this that ends just needing parts and labor is a good day.
4.82, 158.67mph 1/8th mile 7.350, 200.32mph 1/4 mile Riding

4.392, 176.79mph 1/8th mile  6.610, 228.15mph 1/4 mile Tuning

Offline Ghost-Geezer

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #4 on: November 28, 2016, 09:41:29 AM »
Dash is dead, bike does start and idle but only thing electrical working is the headlight. 
"The thrill of Boost cannot be duplicated on earth."

"One drink is too many and a thousand is not enuf."

"Step UP or Step Aside"

"Four wheels moves the body,
Two wheels moves the soul."

Offline Falcon-A

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #5 on: November 28, 2016, 08:11:54 PM »
HOS there was nothing wrong with the batteries it is how they are prepped at set up time.
 I was taught how to correctly prep a battery and mine lasted 9 years!
 The least I got out of one is 5 and that was a wheeler that I didn't use much.
 There is a proper way to fill a dry battery.
 You should pop the bottle on the battery to break the tin foil seals.
 Let it completely drain. Let it take as much time as it wants. DO NOT BE IN A HURRY!
 Then look down inside. If you see liquid, let it sit until it looks dry. This is what most do wrong.
 I am told once you put the cover on the battery, if they aren't fully absorbed they will never absorb.
 They will only be partially functional.
 I had one take two days to fully absorb!
 Most don't take that long.
 Then a very low charge no heavy charges. 1 amp or less until fully charged. Then and only then it's ready for use.
 As far as why Geezer your bike is having this problem, I'm not completely sure, but by taking the negative off your battery and letting things reset, it might fix your problem.
 I had that happen once a long time ago, and that fixed it thank God!
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Offline Ghost-Geezer

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #6 on: November 28, 2016, 09:19:29 PM »
Rodney will fix it.  Also gonna raise the boost levels so that each gear will have the same power...........250 on low, 300 on medium.......350 on high on pump..........400 on C-16 and 440 on C-16.  I will use my right wrist to mitigate the differences. 
"The thrill of Boost cannot be duplicated on earth."

"One drink is too many and a thousand is not enuf."

"Step UP or Step Aside"

"Four wheels moves the body,
Two wheels moves the soul."

Offline HOS

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2016, 05:36:05 PM »
HOS there was nothing wrong with the batteries it is how they are prepped at set up time.
 I was taught how to correctly prep a battery and mine lasted 9 years!
 The least I got out of one is 5 and that was a wheeler that I didn't use much.
 There is a proper way to fill a dry battery.
 You should pop the bottle on the battery to break the tin foil seals.
 Let it completely drain. Let it take as much time as it wants. DO NOT BE IN A HURRY!
 Then look down inside. If you see liquid, let it sit until it looks dry. This is what most do wrong.
 I am told once you put the cover on the battery, if they aren't fully absorbed they will never absorb.
 They will only be partially functional.
 I had one take two days to fully absorb!
 Most don't take that long.
 Then a very low charge no heavy charges. 1 amp or less until fully charged. Then and only then it's ready for use.
 As far as why Geezer your bike is having this problem, I'm not completely sure, but by taking the negative off your battery and letting things reset, it might fix your problem.
 I had that happen once a long time ago, and that fixed it thank God!

Ello mate,
I've had 5 gen1 Busa's myself and only bought one new battery on the first 4. The 5th was a very different kettle of fish with the load from the blower on start up.
The battery physical size is quite small for the bike. I had a problem finding a powerful race battery that was small enough to fit in the compartment.
The blower bike killed three new batteries within a few months.

But I'd read about people having problems with early battery failures. Another urban myth maybe?
I have no more sh*ts to give.

Offline Rocketgeezer

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2016, 10:27:03 PM »
HOS there was nothing wrong with the batteries it is how they are prepped at set up time.
 I was taught how to correctly prep a battery and mine lasted 9 years!
 The least I got out of one is 5 and that was a wheeler that I didn't use much.
 There is a proper way to fill a dry battery.
 You should pop the bottle on the battery to break the tin foil seals.
 Let it completely drain. Let it take as much time as it wants. DO NOT BE IN A HURRY!
 Then look down inside. If you see liquid, let it sit until it looks dry. This is what most do wrong.
 I am told once you put the cover on the battery, if they aren't fully absorbed they will never absorb.
 They will only be partially functional.
 I had one take two days to fully absorb!
 Most don't take that long.
 Then a very low charge no heavy charges. 1 amp or less until fully charged. Then and only then it's ready for use.
 As far as why Geezer your bike is having this problem, I'm not completely sure, but by taking the negative off your battery and letting things reset, it might fix your problem.
 I had that happen once a long time ago, and that fixed it thank God!

Ello mate,
I've had 5 gen1 Busa's myself and only bought one new battery on the first 4. The 5th was a very different kettle of fish with the load from the blower on start up.
The battery physical size is quite small for the bike. I had a problem finding a powerful race battery that was small enough to fit in the compartment.
The blower bike killed three new batteries within a few months.

But I'd read about people having problems with early battery failures. Another urban myth maybe?
Hos, this march I will have had my Busa 12 years its been turboed for all but maybe the first 3 months when I first got it going and had a data logger and a couple other goodies that took a bit of power, I tried a 24 volt setup, I used a small scooter battery in the back that thing cranked over super fast but it had some strange issues, so I switched it back with,  the batterys in parallel, so its like one big battery been that way since, I think I have replaced the main battery 3 times and the little one twice, if your stuck with the single battery, there is one made, (don't remember the Yusa part#) but I think its about the same as stock except it has the number 14 instead of 12 in it, fits the box but its to tall, you have to whittle out the seat base so it will fit over the tall battery, don't have to take cut out any foam just the hard plastic base, just so it will fit over the battery and get the bolts back in
The older you get do you notice you start chickening out way before the bike does

Offline HOS

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #9 on: December 04, 2016, 02:58:22 AM »
I solved the problem of too much power drain on cranking the engine by fitting a jel type race battery. 
It had huge cranking power but also it did not have the charging limits there is on standard batteries while the bike is running.  This is relevant to road use not race use.
So while the bike was being ridden the battery could accept unlimited charge rate. 
The battery was an Odyssey eXtreme and although the battery terminals were handed left to right the lead still reached. I had to fit some taller terminal towers for the standard lead connections to work.
But over all it was a total solution with rapid repeated starting. 
It's was a 1 second fire up compared to long cranking time for a stock battery.


« Last Edit: December 04, 2016, 06:31:28 AM by HOS »
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Offline Rocketgeezer

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #10 on: December 04, 2016, 07:49:44 AM »
I solved the problem of too much power drain on cranking the engine by fitting a jel type race battery. 
It had huge cranking power but also it did not have the charging limits there is on standard batteries while the bike is running.  This is relevant to road use not race use.
So while the bike was being ridden the battery could accept unlimited charge rate. 
The battery was an Odyssey eXtreme and although the battery terminals were handed left to right the lead still reached. I had to fit some taller terminal towers for the standard lead connections to work.
But over all it was a total solution with rapid repeated starting. 
It's was a 1 second fire up compared to long cranking time for a stock battery.
I used two of them in my race car worked great, at the time I don't think they had them for bikes yet, I may look into one when I need the next battery, bike needs tires right now, its the same problem all street bikes have with any power, if you get one that grips good it don't wear worth a crap, get one that you get some good mileage out of, you need to really watch the curves and heavy throttle, I think I may try the pilot power 2TC this time, and see what happens
The older you get do you notice you start chickening out way before the bike does

Offline HOS

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #11 on: December 04, 2016, 10:21:14 AM »
I solved the problem of too much power drain on cranking the engine by fitting a jel type race battery. 
It had huge cranking power but also it did not have the charging limits there is on standard batteries while the bike is running.  This is relevant to road use not race use.
So while the bike was being ridden the battery could accept unlimited charge rate. 
The battery was an Odyssey eXtreme and although the battery terminals were handed left to right the lead still reached. I had to fit some taller terminal towers for the standard lead connections to work.
But over all it was a total solution with rapid repeated starting. 
It's was a 1 second fire up compared to long cranking time for a stock battery.
I used two of them in my race car worked great, at the time I don't think they had them for bikes yet, I may look into one when I need the next battery, bike needs tires right now, its the same problem all street bikes have with any power, if you get one that grips good it don't wear worth a crap, get one that you get some good mileage out of, you need to really watch the curves and heavy throttle, I think I may try the pilot power 2TC this time, and see what happens

Even on a stock Busa I would get through tires rapidly. 1000 miles out of a rear and two rear tires to one front tire.
At best I'd get 1500 miles from a rear.

See how you get on with finding a race battery when your ready. I'm sure there will be choices out there.
Peace of mind was worth it.
I have no more sh*ts to give.

Offline Falcon-A

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #12 on: December 08, 2016, 08:55:34 AM »
I put in a Lithium battery this time around, I forget which brand, but it's nearly weightless and has 230 CCA.
 Seems to work awesome! So far so good. My old battery still works I used it in the Honda VFR fit perfect!
 I'm only on my third battery in 80K miles. And 16 years.

 As far as tires, once I switched to the Michelin Pilot roads, I can get two seasons out of them. I switch them before they are down to the wear bars as having new rubber feels so nice!
 
 I do burnouts and hard take offs all the time, it doesn't wear out! Feels fine in the corners and rain too.
 I absolutely love them!
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Offline Ghost-Geezer

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #13 on: December 08, 2016, 09:18:02 AM »
Rodney found a blown fuse.
"The thrill of Boost cannot be duplicated on earth."

"One drink is too many and a thousand is not enuf."

"Step UP or Step Aside"

"Four wheels moves the body,
Two wheels moves the soul."

Offline Rocketgeezer

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #14 on: December 08, 2016, 07:15:25 PM »
I put in a Lithium battery this time around, I forget which brand, but it's nearly weightless and has 230 CCA.
 Seems to work awesome! So far so good. My old battery still works I used it in the Honda VFR fit perfect!
 I'm only on my third battery in 80K miles. And 16 years.

 As far as tires, once I switched to the Michelin Pilot roads, I can get two seasons out of them. I switch them before they are down to the wear bars as having new rubber feels so nice!
 
 I do burnouts and hard take offs all the time, it doesn't wear out! Feels fine in the corners and rain too.
 I absolutely love them!
I tried a pilot road2 on the rear a while back and while it did wear like iron, and cornering was not that bad, the forward bite sucked, it was by far the worst I ever had on the rear, as far as forward traction was concerned
The older you get do you notice you start chickening out way before the bike does

Offline Falcon-A

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Re: Electrical Issues
« Reply #15 on: December 09, 2016, 10:25:13 AM »
I put in a Lithium battery this time around, I forget which brand, but it's nearly weightless and has 230 CCA.
 Seems to work awesome! So far so good. My old battery still works I used it in the Honda VFR fit perfect!
 I'm only on my third battery in 80K miles. And 16 years.

 As far as tires, once I switched to the Michelin Pilot roads, I can get two seasons out of them. I switch them before they are down to the wear bars as having new rubber feels so nice!
 
 I do burnouts and hard take offs all the time, it doesn't wear out! Feels fine in the corners and rain too.
 I absolutely love them!
I tried a pilot road2 on the rear a while back and while it did wear like iron, and cornering was not that bad, the forward bite sucked, it was by far the worst I ever had on the rear, as far as forward traction was concerned
I don't know which one I'm on now a Road 3 or 4 I can't remember. I do hard take offs all the time and I don't loose traction, I must be doing something different. I love the fact that it holds it's crown so long. I ride a lot of twisties and I run a 190/55 and which makes it flickable. I love a tall crown as it fells so nimble.
 I guess to each their own. You have to use what works for YOU. I can't tell you what works for me will work for you. Unless we're talking oil. Then you're nuts if you don't use Amsoil haha :thumb:
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