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Author Topic: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle  (Read 260 times)

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2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« on: March 24, 2020, 04:09:24 PM »
Ladies and Gents,
     I need a little help!! I have a 2013 Hayabusa that wonít start unless I crack the throttle. Once I get it running, itíll continue running just fine, as long as I hold the throttle. If I let go of the throttle, the throttle, the bike dies (both warm and cold). I recently bought the bike, because Iíve wanted a turbo bike for some time. When I bought the bike, it ran just fine. But then I had a few issues here and there.
     First, the bike died a few times when I would grab the clutch while approaching intersections. Then, I experienced what seemed like I was hitting rev limiting at approximately 4k to 5k RPMs in 2nd gear. One day, the bike shut off on me while when I was approaching a signal, and wouldnít restart unless I cracked the throttle. When I got home, and let the bike cool, I cranked it, it idled just fine, and warmed up as usual. The next day, I went to ride again, and the bike wouldnít start unless I cracked the throttle, which is where I am currently at.
     I thought that maybe I had some bad gas, because I had just fueled before this happened. New fuel didnít change anything. Then I checked the fuel pressure, which was WAY to high at about 98 PSI. Called the guy I bought it from, and he said he was running 43 PSI. This struck me as odd, because it shouldnít change after its set. So I cranked it way down to 43. Surprise surprise.... no change.
     This is the fun part, the bike has a stage one turbo kit from RCC Turbo with meth injection. It also has a PC 5 and was tuned professionally at powerhouse motorcycles (up in NY). There are quite a bit of other aftermarket parts, but none that I think come into play here.
     Any ideas folks?
« Last Edit: March 24, 2020, 04:13:31 PM by Wheels »

Online Dustin02

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Re: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« Reply #1 on: March 24, 2020, 09:57:45 PM »
Did you check the hose from the plenum to the Idle air control valve?  Sounds like you may have a major vacuum leak.  Maybe one of the silicone couplers on the throttle bodies or the ones underneath has worked itself loose.

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Re: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2020, 02:26:51 AM »
Did it backfire anytime ?
Check the throttlebody boots on the head and throttlebodies, difficult to tell if there part off sometimes
Hose from map sensor too, pinched or off will give similar results
Check your gauge, maybe 98 wasnt 98 , 43 should be correct
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Online Wheels

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Re: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« Reply #3 on: March 25, 2020, 04:13:18 PM »
Did you check the hose from the plenum to the Idle air control valve?  Sounds like you may have a major vacuum leak.  Maybe one of the silicone couplers on the throttle bodies or the ones underneath has worked itself loose.

As far as I can tell, all of my vacuum lines are in good shape, secured well, and arenít pinched anywhere. As far as the IAC Valve, I think that was removed when the turbo kit was installed. All of the silicone couplers are in place and secure as well. Itís a weird issue, but Iím hoping to get to the bottom of it soon! Thanks for the input!

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Re: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2020, 04:18:07 PM »
Did it backfire anytime ?
Check the throttlebody boots on the head and throttlebodies, difficult to tell if there part off sometimes
Hose from map sensor too, pinched or off will give similar results
Check your gauge, maybe 98 wasnt 98 , 43 should be correct

No backfires while Iíve had it. The previous owner says he never had one either. All of the vacuum lines seem to be fine. The silicone couplers are all in place. I check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail with both a pressure sensor and electronic gauge, and a manual gauge. Pressure reads steady 43 when I get it running.

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Re: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2020, 04:35:39 PM »
Ideas:

pinched return line (would raise fp and kill the engine)
tps out, get code via dealer mode
fuel pump, wiggle all connections
coil pack going out, theyll fail first when they are heated up. put in honda 1000 coil packs (they dont suck)
RCC turbos rock!!! Rcc- Ultra plenum, case saver, Carillo- rods, Wossner pistons, APE- springs/tool steel shift shafts, Ferrara valves, ARP studs, lightened and balanced crank, Boostbysmith ecu editor, AMS 1000 with CO2, Joemoto motor. Mac arm 0-6 over, BST carbon fiber rims. Someday I'm goin' fast!

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Re: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2020, 02:42:06 PM »
Not the silicone couplers, but under the throttlebodies , as you have idle problems your problem is below the throttle blades which could be air leak, fuel supply and also including spark plugs , and compression

test the throttlebodies with crc or similar when idling  ,

also the rpm limiter from 4-5k is that still happening ? does it loose power or miss , thats the point things should start happening on the fun side of things
 
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Re: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2020, 08:33:26 PM »
Then I checked the fuel pressure, which was WAY to high at about 98 PSI. Called the guy I bought it from, and he said he was running 43 PSI. This struck me as odd, because it shouldnít change after its set. So I cranked it way down to 43. Surprise surprise.... no change.
Check fuel return line and FPR. I mocked up the fuel system using chinese lines and within few days the lines swelled on the inside and the return line was partially blocked. The fuel pressure gauge was pegged.
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Re: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« Reply #8 on: March 29, 2020, 06:21:49 PM »
Sorry for the delayed response! Iíve been very busy with a new schedule based on this Covid-19 pandemic! I have some time in my schedule tomorrow to check some of the things that you have suggested, and will get back to you as soon as I have answers! Thanks for all of the input, I truly appreciate it!

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Re: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« Reply #9 on: March 31, 2020, 08:26:21 AM »
Not the silicone couplers, but under the throttlebodies , as you have idle problems your problem is below the throttle blades which could be air leak, fuel supply and also including spark plugs , and compression

test the throttlebodies with crc or similar when idling  ,

also the rpm limiter from 4-5k is that still happening ? does it loose power or miss , thats the point things should start happening on the fun side of things

Based on my initial visual inspection, all of the vacuum lines looked to be in good condition, and the throttle bodies appeared to be sealed to the head and intake manifold. This made me think that there shouldnít be a vacuum leak all of a sudden. After reading all of the input, and looking at anything else that might be responsible for the issue, I went and bought a vacuum gauge. I hooked the vacuum gauge directly to the intake manifold, and found out that I have 0 psi of vacuum. So Iíll be spraying the area to find the culprit.

Also, Iím not sure if this is the same, or separate, issue as the 4-5k limiting (but Iíll find out soon). I havenít been out to test it since Iíve had the issue with the idle.

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Re: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« Reply #10 on: March 31, 2020, 08:34:34 AM »
 I was only able to find my leak at the bottom of the throttle bodies when I inspected based on where the top portion of the lower boots should be on the throttle bodies. Mine looked fully seated until I noticed the whole thing was about a quarter inch up from where it should be. I had to loosen all of the clamps and smack the crap out of it to get it to go back down.
That being said, pressure test or vacuum test is best way to find the leak.
RCC turbos rock!!! Rcc- Ultra plenum, case saver, Carillo- rods, Wossner pistons, APE- springs/tool steel shift shafts, Ferrara valves, ARP studs, lightened and balanced crank, Boostbysmith ecu editor, AMS 1000 with CO2, Joemoto motor. Mac arm 0-6 over, BST carbon fiber rims. Someday I'm goin' fast!

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Re: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« Reply #11 on: March 31, 2020, 09:08:34 AM »
Remember, if you're taking a reading at the plenum, you won't get any vacuum. You need to take a reading behind the butterflies. Take the reading at the vacuum hose at the bottom on the throttle bodies.

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Re: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« Reply #12 on: March 31, 2020, 11:36:02 PM »
Also, Iím not sure if this is the same, or separate, issue as the 4-5k limiting (but Iíll find out soon)
I had similar issue a while ago but it was happening at around 6-7k and the bike was ZX10R. It was the faulty side stand switch that vibrated and killed the ecu. And then again but with GSXR600.
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Re: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« Reply #13 on: April 03, 2020, 09:53:23 PM »
Remember, if you're taking a reading at the plenum, you won't get any vacuum. You need to take a reading behind the butterflies. Take the reading at the vacuum hose at the bottom on the throttle bodies.

Thanks Dustin, Iím a newb when it comes to vacuum issues! Hereís the latest:

I have between 8 and 9 PSI of vacuum from below the throttle bodies, and all of my vacuum lines and couplers seem to be in good shape. I have heard from a few people that I should adjust the idle stop, because it seems like the idle is too low. This seems weird to me because I donít think the idle should have to be adjusted all of a sudden... there must be some other change!

I have also read a lot of comments from people saying that you shouldnít adjust the idle stop screw on a gen 2 Busa because the ecu controls the idle. On another note, I have shimmed the idle stop with some paper (not much), and the bike cranks just fine. Itíll crank, warm, and run through the rpm range just fine.

I need some advise, for or against adjusting the idle stop screw. I would also like to hear if there is anything else yíall are thinking!

On a side note, someone please school me! I need to know about vacuum! Current setup, I have my MAP sensor and Blow off valve hooked up to my vacuum lines that originate at the base of the throttle bodies. My wastegate, boost gauge, and Fuel pressure regulator are hooked up to my plenum. There is also a branch from one of the tees out of the plenum that runs to the base of the throttle bodies. My question is: how does the FPR and wastegate work on vacuum when I measure 0 vacuum at the plenum? Please help me understand!

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Re: 2013 Turbo Hayabusa wonít idle
« Reply #14 on: April 04, 2020, 03:45:42 PM »
I have between 8 and 9 PSI of vacuum from below the throttle bodies, and all of my vacuum lines and couplers seem to be in good shape. I have heard from a few people that I should adjust the idle stop, because it seems like the idle is too low. This seems weird to me because I donít think the idle should have to be adjusted all of a sudden... there must be some other change!

I have also read a lot of comments from people saying that you shouldnít adjust the idle stop screw on a gen 2 Busa because the ecu controls the idle. On another note, I have shimmed the idle stop with some paper (not much), and the bike cranks just fine. Itíll crank, warm, and run through the rpm range just fine.

I need some advise, for or against adjusting the idle stop screw. I would also like to hear if there is anything else yíall are thinking!

On a side note, someone please school me! I need to know about vacuum! Current setup, I have my MAP sensor and Blow off valve hooked up to my vacuum lines that originate at the base of the throttle bodies. My wastegate, boost gauge, and Fuel pressure regulator are hooked up to my plenum. There is also a branch from one of the tees out of the plenum that runs to the base of the throttle bodies. My question is: how does the FPR and wastegate work on vacuum when I measure 0 vacuum at the plenum? Please help me understand!

Gen 2 idle is controlled by the idle solenoid, the throttle blades are closed and air is bypassed via the solenoid and bigger diameter hose that runs from plenum to solenoid on lower throttlebodies is where it sources that air , some guys bypass that system and adjust the throttle stop to get there idle, if everything else checks out there is the chance your idle solenoid is not functioning correctly 

Vac ....Map sensor needs vac, BOV needs vac , Wastegate needs pressure only and FPR is not vac referenced on bikes after 2000 so often hooked up to plenum not lower throttlebody to keep pre boost tuning similar to original
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