Author Topic: Sealing the ram air tubes?? (Read 15517 times) Tweet

ZXALAN · « **on:** December 11, 2002, 09:20:00 PM »

Anyone have a good, budget way to seal the tubes to the frame? I tried inner tubes from a motorcycle tire but its impossible to get it on the frame spigots. I don't have the money for real seals so trying to make some. Right now I have it aluminum taped to seal for the time being but want to seal them correctly. Any ideas or pics?

Also, just went back to the small box mod/BMC from the full box mod/uni, it feels crisper and a little stronger down low but I haven't adjusted the map yet. Who is running the full box mod and who is running the small box mod? MPH at the strip? Later

A&J Performance · « **Reply #1 on:** December 11, 2002, 10:10:00 PM »

Uhhhh
yep sure do have a good way!
LOOK HERE !

By the I do sell them.
Joe

Buster · « **Reply #2 on:** December 11, 2002, 10:30:00 PM »

I remove the nose, then use aircraft aluminum tape on the inside of airbox to frame area (full circumerence) to create a super smooth transition. The only down side is removing the air box but that does'nt happen too often. I too went back to the small box/BMC race from the full mod at the beginning of race season, didn't make any difference at the track. I gained tourqe on the street which it makes more fun for every day riding.

E-RACER · « **Reply #3 on:** December 11, 2002, 11:24:00 PM »

Duct tape..

RHYTHM · « **Reply #4 on:** December 12, 2002, 07:46:00 AM »

Here's a good source . http://home.uwnet.nl/~jlwerk/fastsjonny/suzuki%20hayabusa%20modifications%20airbox.html

MillenniumFalcon · « **Reply #5 on:** December 12, 2002, 08:02:00 AM »

Here's the seal link!

http://home.uwnet.nl/~jlwerk/fastsjonny/suzuki%20hayabusa%20modifications%20ram-air%20sealing.html

RHYTHM · « **Reply #6 on:** December 12, 2002, 08:04:00 AM »

Ooppsssss . Thanks brutha

ZXALAN · « **Reply #7 on:** December 12, 2002, 04:18:00 PM »

A&J Perf, those are the Nick seal, too much $$ for my poor ass. Buster, I am using that aircraft aluminum tape right now to ghetto seal the air box tubes to the frame but didn't do anything to the ram air tube side. I am interested to see if my bike slows down any at the strip with the small box mod. My map may be off some but it still feels more responsive down low. I mainly wanted to gain some low to mid range back. Gonna play with the seals more and try to figure something out, the coke bottle idea may be in the future.

Buster, you didn't lose any mph at the strip going from the big box to the small box mod? Gonna put a dry kit on it, thats another reason to go back to the small box mod, more centralized entrance for the nos coming in from the left RA tube. Anyone else have any more tips or pics? I am suprised, I figured more people would have tried this without spending $100 on it.

Birdoprey · « **Reply #8 on:** December 12, 2002, 10:22:00 PM »

Alan,

I too used alum tape(from A/C and heating store). Took the upper fairing off and pulled the ram-air tubes. Tore small pieces of the tape and applied in small sections inside the frame where it meets the airbox snouts. The alum tape makes a very smooth transition and does'nt leave a sticky mess when removed(like duct tape). I picked up right at 1mph at the track doing this alone, but the foam seals were not even close to sealing well. I also noticed that the ram-air tubes did'nt fit very tightly(VERY loose) into the frame which prolly caused some leakage as well. I wrapped the snout that fit into the frame with the alum tape as well till it fit snuggly.
Bummer is that i avoid removing the airbox til i have to...

Mr. Demeanor · « **Reply #9 on:** December 13, 2002, 05:21:00 AM »

Look in the frame and you will see a small space between the frame and the plastic inside. I took some aluminum flashing (thin aluminum sheet) and fabricated some extensions that fit in there and extend out of the hole in the frame rail so I have somthing for my inner tube seals to seat on to. Sorry, no pics but i hope that explains it.

ZXALAN · « **Reply #10 on:** December 13, 2002, 06:26:00 AM »

Thanks powerstroke, that gives me a clue anyway.

Mark, I am using that same tape you speak of right now for the time being. Don't really want to pull the upper off unless I have to. I may play with it some more this weekend. Its very hard to wrap that aluminum tape around the air box snorkels and the frame spigots cleanly. I may try to either make some extensions like PS said with some tin or sheet metal, stick em in the hole in the frame just to close the 1/2" gap between the snorkels and frame, then roll the inner tube on the extension like rollin on a rubber. LOL! I think that will help seal the inside of the ram air tube directly to the snorkels on air box without having to remove the upper fairing. We will see. Keep you guys posted.

Powerstroke, you runnin a big box or a small box mod? Stock bore? Just gettin opinions. Dynos say the big box makes more power but after talking with many FAST racers, they say small box mod, short stacks and either BMC or no filter at all. Just doin a survey.

MillenniumFalcon · « **Reply #11 on:** December 13, 2002, 07:30:00 AM »

How long does it take to take it apart and put it back together?

C'ya · « **Reply #12 on:** December 13, 2002, 08:30:00 AM »

quote:
Originally posted by ZXALAN:
Anyone have a good, budget way to seal the tubes to the frame? I don't have the money for real seals so trying to make some.

Buster · « **Reply #15 on:** December 13, 2002, 11:18:00 PM »

The secret is sealing the inside of the ramair inlet not the outside...it is well worth removing the nose (about 1/2 hour) for the gain. ZXAlan I did not see any measurable loss in the 1/4.

Gixx1300R · « **Reply #16 on:** December 13, 2002, 11:47:00 PM »

Actually you do not want to install anything inside the Air tract for the Ramair system. It will cause turbulence

ZXALAN · « **Reply #17 on:** December 13, 2002, 06:13:00 PM »

I am about to go to Home depot and buy some sort of flexible metal, tin or aluminum and make an extension like Power Stroked suggested to slide in the frame hole from the inside of the engine bay and let it fit over the ram air tube snuggly. Then I will let it come out of the frame about a 1/2" and roll the inner tube I cut up over the end of it. Shouldn't be too hard to get the air box on and off and should seal decent. I don't see where this would cause more turbulance because its not actually "IN" the ram air tube but...I ain't no specialist so. I will keep you guys posted on the progress. Thanks for the tips

Mileageking · « **Reply #18 on:** December 14, 2002, 09:15:00 AM »

I have made replacement ram air gaskets that are simple and will work great. I have pictures if you like. I am planning on selling them cheap delivered. Ive used the highest quality materials and czrefully thought out the reasoning and beleive I have a great product. If you want to see the pictures email me off line or if somone wants to receive them and post them fine too. I am not planning on selling any until I use them on my bike and send a few sets out to guys for free evaluation. Im thinking about $23 delivered.
I will also describe how to make them your self if you like. Not exactly easy mostly the costing was in the adhesives as I had to try out a bunch of diffrent things. So let me know if you want to see the pictures. Let me know your connection speed as the images will be large and high detail.
Oh clearly Im not out ot rape anyone on this my time beng paid for my work is all im after.
welcht@metrocast.net

ZXALAN · « **Reply #19 on:** December 14, 2002, 07:36:00 PM »

Just finished my ram air seals. Came out perfect! Got some thin stainless steel from Home Depot for $2.44, it is intended for air conditioning ducts and its already got a tendency to curve. I measured the distance in the gap from the air box snorkel to the frame spigots. About 1/2 or so on each side. Then I did just as Power Stroke spoke of, there is a small gap, like 1/8" around the ram air tube where it goes through the frame, the ram air tube will actually move around a little in there. The tube comes within about 1/2-3/4" from the frame spigot exit. I cut the sheet metal about 8" long, about 2" wide and formed it to fit the shape of the spigot. I actually slid the sheet metal inbetween the ram air tube and the passage in the frame, this really tighted up the fit and the sheet metal extension bottomed out about 1" into the hole around the ram air tube. This fit VERY tight and really smoothed out the travel through the frame. This left about 1/2" of sheet metal extension hanging out of the frame. Then I fit the air box on with 2.5" of rubber inner tube sleeves rolled up on the snorkels. After the box was tightened up, the snorkels JUST touched the extensions with virtually no gap, just a perfect butt to butt fit, then I rolled the inner tube sleeves over the extensions and even partially over the frame spigots. Then I stuck my hand through the air filter hole in the air box and down into the snorkel to feel for any lips obstacles, the transition was very smooth. Also since wrapping the sheet metal around the ram air tube tightly between the frame, there was no need to put rubber sleeves on the ram air tubes entrance into the frame. Basically the extensions were like external couplers that attached the ram air tubes to the snorkels. Total cost: $2.44, time to do this: little over an hour. Now it needs to be tested at the strip to determine if I lost any top end HP going from the full box mod to the small box mod. Definetly feels snappier from 2-5k with the small mod/BMC setup. We will see. Later fellas.

pabusa · « **Reply #20 on:** December 14, 2002, 08:09:00 PM »

I think thats the way to go zax, gonna do the same .

mrtris · « **Reply #21 on:** December 14, 2002, 09:46:00 PM »

I'm posting this for Mileageking.

Hi,
Well this is the first set I have finished well actually I had another set
but I lost them in my garage along with the jigs I made for them which is
driving me insane but I made another and here they are. This set will be
going on my bike. I have 17 sets cut and made into circles but need top and
bottom layering. Seems like the entire fucking world conspires against me to
keep me from making these things. They don't take all that long and I want
to make them but just Havnt been able to make the time Today I'm dealing
with 300 blood sugar a turbo half installed in one of my sports cars kids
wife with her bullshit that never ends a nightmare ice /rain storm and No
fucking motorcycle cause of the Ice!!. Yes they will work just fine I've
done temperature testing and even in extreme conditions the temp never gets
over 130F under the hood and this stuff has a high flame rating. The
adhesive is silly stuff like the acme stuff on the roadrunner carton simply
amazing peal off those strips and what it sticks to is forever...I made
them a little wide to account for the offset that happens sometimes and yes
the price is very low and the quality will be very high. Please note I am a
supplier quality specialist by trade these things will work perfectly and
have NONE of the difficulties of the removing the ram air box the tube
affair has or so I have read.

--------------------------------------------------
These are the pics he sent me.
I put them up on my websight.

http://home.attbi.com/~mrtris1/wsb/media/134538/site1020.JPG

http://home.attbi.com/~mrtris1/wsb/media/134538/site1021.JPG

http://home.attbi.com/~mrtris1/wsb/media/134538/site1022.JPG

http://home.attbi.com/~mrtris1/wsb/media/134538/site1023.JPG

http://home.attbi.com/~mrtris1/wsb/media/134538/site1024.JPG

http://home.attbi.com/~mrtris1/wsb/media/134538/site1025.JPG

Mileageking · « **Reply #22 on:** December 15, 2002, 08:27:00 AM »

Hey thanks for the help and posting those pictures for me. As I said Ill send you the 2nd set free. It wont be for a while but Ill have then all done tested and shipping before spring.
Im planning on making 50 sets which eill take a few days? If anyone wants dimensions for comparison fire away..

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Author Topic: Sealing the ram air tubes?? (Read 15517 times) Tweet