Author Topic: St-St-Stuttering Busa (Read 10406 times) Tweet

warp9 · « **on:** March 28, 2003, 05:45:00 PM »

My bike has been in several shops for this problem and no one has successfully diagnosed or solved the problem. I have a power commander on my busa (2000) and everything was working fine. Recently, whenever the bike is warmed up, say after riding about an hour or so; if I am around 6000 rpms and I whack the throttle, the bike sputters for about 2 seconds and then takes off. I took it to the dealer and they said the map fell out of the power commander (unconfirmed), so they put the map back in. The bike ran well for a while (about 2 hours) then the same thing happened again. Additionally, my bike never had problems starting, but now whenever that event occurs or it gets warmed up; if I shut the bike off after that, it won't restart immediately - it acts like it is flooded (you can smell gas) taking maybe 15 or 20 tries before it finally starts. After two more go 'rounds with this, I said screw it and I took the power commander off thinking that would determine if the power commander was faulty. Same problems occur however less pronounced (difficult to start and stutters on hard acceleration - any gear). The dealer did mention that they had to reset or recalibrate my throttle position sensor. I asked them if they tampered with the factory map in the bike and they said no, but my bike used to run fine even with my slip ons before I had a power commander. I have a strong belief that they did adjust the stock map - simply because it used to run fine. Do you think it could be a bad TPS or some other sensor sending bad information to the engine control computer when it heats up? I have also been told that it could be a fuel filter problem. I guess there was a recall regarding some problem like this? (My dealer never told me squat)I am at my wits end trying to get help. I am begging for any ideas

AncientRgn · « **Reply #1 on:** March 28, 2003, 06:01:00 PM »

Check your oil level, it might just be overfilled and getting on your plugs

warp9 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 29, 2003, 07:02:00 AM »

Oil level is right on the money. I also forgot to mention that sometimes the bike cuts off at while you are riding before it warms up.

Chainstretcher · « **Reply #3 on:** March 30, 2003, 12:54:00 AM »

Ya, it could be the TPS. You said the dealer recalibrated it. Maybe they left it loose and it has become uncalibrated. Easy to check. Remove seats and find the plug (left side between driver and passenger seat -- two wires blk/wht and wht). Remove the rubber cap and jumper the two connectors (18 awg wire about 4 inches long will do fine) start up bike and use fast idle to 2000 rpms and see where the line is. If it's in the middle then the TPS is o.k.

The only other thing I can think of is the throttle bodies aren't synched. But I don't think that would cause your midrange problem -- only a rough idle.

Good luck.

HighOnBusa · « **Reply #4 on:** March 30, 2003, 05:26:00 AM »

Clean your screens. Real common problem. Also if your battery is stock, you might want to get a new one. My 2000 was hard starting (Back Lash

).I Changed the battery and the problems gone. Seems to be running better also.

kick · « **Reply #5 on:** March 30, 2003, 06:32:00 AM »

quote:
Originally posted by Chainstretcher:

The only other thing I can think of is the throttle bodies aren't synched. But I don't think that would cause your midrange problem -- only a rough idle.

Good luck.

Right. The only stumbling that I get is in the low rpm range and having the throttle bodies synched made a big difference down there. 2000 model

Birdman · « **Reply #6 on:** March 30, 2003, 07:35:00 AM »

Kick stand safety switch can cause these problems if bad, bypass switch and see what happens...

warp9 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 30, 2003, 03:39:00 PM »

Is it pretty easy to clean the fuel filter screens? Could someone give me an overview?

ZEUS · « **Reply #8 on:** May 02, 2003, 11:45:00 PM »

Warp9 if you haven't already you may need to have your stock ecu remapped and/or your pc2 remapped sounds like you are flooding out (getting to much fuel) also your choke circut may not be closing/shutting off after the bike warms up, are you using the choke at all when you first start up? and also is it working properly (not sticking or hung up) and closing when you turn the choke off, have you been fouling any plugs? smelling gas? this may not be your problem but it is something worth checking since your bike was running fine prior to adding the pc2

ZEUS · « **Reply #9 on:** May 02, 2003, 11:58:00 PM »

The fuel problem you are referring to was mainly on the 99 model some 00's but was a clogged fuel screen problem which had the engine starving for fuel mainly on the big/high end which was not allowing the engine to get enough fuel causing a loss of power in your case it sounds like you are getting to much fuel you said you had your bike to several shops who knows what your friendly (rookie) shop mechanic has or has not done correctly as soon as I find the procedure for cleaning the fuel system pump and screens I will post it for you unless someone else that has it post it for you first

louciccantijr · « **Reply #10 on:** May 03, 2003, 07:59:00 AM »

You may have a ruptured fuel pressure regulator diaphragm.
What happens is fuel seeps by the diaphragm and loads up the vacumm tube and throttle bodies while the bike is under a "hot soak" condition (sitting for at least 15 minutes after running at operating temp). Then when you go to crank it up, the fuel gets sucked past the throttle blades flooding the engine.
Does it start sooner if you hold the throttle WFO ?
Does it stumble and puff black smoke for a few seconds after a hot soak and the "clear up" ?

ZEUS · « **Reply #11 on:** May 06, 2003, 01:12:00 AM »

warp 9 try this site for your fuelsystem cleaning procedure http://www.hayabusa.org/cgi-bin....1;t=716 goodluck

maxspeed · « **Reply #12 on:** May 06, 2003, 07:36:00 PM »

On my buddies 2001,I had the same year bike he experienced the same problem until it would not start at all,come to find out it was his fuel filter screens in the injectors,maximum cleaned them up for him and the filter in the pump and he never had a problem since...........now he is running a consistant 9'30's @ 157mph big mph.

bigmotor70 · « **Reply #14 on:** May 18, 2003, 08:36:00 PM »

check for kinked fuel lines

maxspeed · « **Reply #15 on:** May 19, 2003, 05:41:00 PM »

I think I HAVE THE SOLUTION TO YOUR PROBLEM,YOUR COOLANT TEMP SWITCH IS WHAT CONTROLS RICH/LEAN CONDITIONS....WHEN THE BIKE IS COLD IT SHOULD READ AMBIANT TEMP,MEANING WHATEVER TEMP IT IS AROUND YOUR BIKE WHEN YOU OHM THE TEMP SWITCH.THE TEMP SWITCH IS WHAT TELLS THE ECM WHEN TO GO INTO CLOSED LOOP AT A CERTAIN TEMP,ALSO CHECK YOUR COOLANT LEVEL,OR AIR IN THE COOLANT SYSTEM.YOU WILL NEED A SERVICE MANUAL IN ORDER TO KNOW WHAT THE VALUES ARE WHEN COLD AND WHEN AT OPERATING TEMP...QUESTION DOES YOUR COOLING FAN OPERATE SOMETIMES WHEN THE BIKE IS REALLY NOT THAT WARM?....JAMES

Speedy Gonzales

St-St-Stuttering Busa

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