Suspension Change

[shakedown3]

Changing the supension on my 01 has made this bike ride like no other Busa's I know. I went Ohlins shock , Ohlins fork springs and Race tech internals. I replaced the stock stering damper with Ohlins unit. I backed off to setting 2 of 19. Bike turns faster. I have Dymag 3 spoke racing magnesium Wheels. I first left the remote preload on the rear shock at the first notch (neutral). I played with the settings for 2 days, Compression 15 of 40 , Rebound 17 of 40. I finally gave the preload another half turn. Front forks compression 3 clicks up from neutral. Rebound 3 clicks back from full stiff. Preload 4 lines showing. The result, I'm 165 lbs about 180 with full gear. I had to take the rearset feelers off the bike. Right now I have a 6.25 Rear wheel, Metsler M1s. You can really push the M1s but the best tires I've ever had on the busa are Perelli DOT Race Supercorsas. SC1 Super soft compound front, SC2 soft rear. Depending on your skills, If a rider on one of the smaller bikes skills arent up to par your going to surprise a whole lot of people!

[SuperDave]

Interesting,
             Sounds like you did it right.  I have a '98 ZX9R with a full Muzzy system and Dymag Full Carbon Wheels, Penske rear shock and the front end was resprung/revalved by Traction Dynamics with EBC rotors/pads. I use Michilen Pilot Sports.  Those type changes make a world of handling difference.
Good job.  

[shakedown3]

There is still a little more I can go. I've had it out a the track quite a few times. Novice racers can't belive I'm riding a busa and smokin um. Once again the more experienced racers let you know your place real quick. Haven't met to many people that have there bike set up for corners as well, I would like to compare notes.

[SuperDave]

You obviously spend a good deal of track-time honing your skills and dialing in your equipment. I confess, my riding is done on these NC two lane roads on the ZX-9 but the aforementioned changes definately made the bike a ton more "flickable" (is that a word?) and gave me additonal confidence in what it can do.  The additonal feature of a ride-height adjustment in the Penske shock came in handy also. I'm sure your Ohlins has that also.    

[shakedown3]

I've ridden some zx9s also. With your suspension upgrades I'll bet that bike is a monster. The front end on the kaw is rock solid. Nice smooth transitions , kind of busa like. People out there that don't really want to spend the cash it takes to do this. Put on a pair of Perelli supercorsas. That one mod aloan in the begining changed the whole way the busa felt. The rear is a 190/55/zr17 it is a little taller and it puts more weight on the front end. Turning gets much lighter and they stick. You know how other tires when your at full lean coming out of a turn, your in the throttle and the back wheel drifts. Try it with the Perellis. The tread ware I also found to be light. I've worn out M1s before I've worn out Perellis. A race tire should be around 160 degrees before it works right. Nope thats at race speeds, truth is a cold race tire is better than a street tire. Race tires do awsome things when up to temp. Best best bang for buck!

[gazza414]

Shakedown, I also have gone down the path of using Ohlins gear ( F&R and damper ) on my Busa, along with using Metzler Rennsports RS2 rear (180mm section) and a RS1 front. I replaced the dogbones with shorter versions to raise the rear 35mm ( 1.5 inches) and dropped the forks a little.

The SuperCorsa's I believe are the same compound as  the Rennsports. I have tried a SC1 (180mm )on the rear and its very soft.

I have a set of Dunlop 208GP's on another set of wheels but have not done enough riding on them to date to provide meaniful feedback.

The next mod is fitting a shorter swingarm...not an easy exercise

After that mod I would like to buy  a set of BST C/F wheels.... mainly for turn in

[shakedown3]

Gizmo,
Your the one I been looking for to compare notes! There is a tuner in Germany that's used a Gsxr1000 swing arm by the name of Katz. He's posted a pic about a year and 1/2 ago on this board. Never got a chance to talk to him about how the bike handeld. I'm  interested in what setings you have on your ohlins gear. Compression, rebound and steering damper settings. Oh and also what is your height and weight?

[jake]

wHAT IS THE COST FOR THE CARBON WHEELS IN $US.
AND THE OHLINS,THANKS.
RAY

[Kirk]

I also use the 190/55 rear. And the RS1/RS2 compounds. I run 30psi front and rear. My wheels are Marvic Penta II magnesium, and I use the stock (worn-out) damper.

Getting the suspension done was the best thing. I'll never forget the first time I passed a Gixxer 600 in a corner during the "A" group on a track day.

[shakedown3]

You can find  an ohlins shock 960.00 original price is 1150.00 but don't pay more than 960.00. I rebuilt my front forks totaly for 600.00. Ohlins steering damper was 250.00 and fits right in stock place.

[SuperDave]

Jake/Ray,

     The original cost for my Dymag full carbons was $4500 for the pair, that included spacers, sprocket/spider gear, everything but discs.  I got them from Andrew at Superbike Racing in Valdosta, GA.

[jake]

Superdave next or if you know anyone else who wants some carbons,magnesium,forged alloy and forged magnesium let me know I can do a deal for them. Email me info@easyriderimports.com.au
Ray

[gazza414]

Shakedown, unfortunately the setup I have isn't the same as yours so comparing notes on details such as turns in or out wouldn't be benefical.
Let me explain
I use a Ohlins rear shock from a GSXR1000  SU1480 46PRXLS which has adjustable ride height( approx 6mm by screwing oput the botom eyebolt ) and high/low speed damping. The std Ohlins spring with this shock is too soft rated at 80N/mm although I have data logged this at 0.05mm increments and the actual spring rate is 86N/mm ( graph plotted and R squared value of 0.999 )

I run another Ohlins spring and an Eibach too rated at 100N/mm and 110N/mm repectively  on the GSXR1000 shock. Due to the extra stiffness the internal compression and rebound shims have all been changed.

The std Hayabusa coil spring is actually 136N/mm ( once again this is what I have measured it at with an R squared  value of 0.991 when plotted )and the coil spring on the Ohlins shock SU8412 46PRCS specified for the Hayabusa is 120N/mm

As for the front end I have Ohlins springs which are approx 20 / 25% stiffer than std. I shim stacks have been modified also to reflect the extra stiffness.

The std Ohlins steering damper I have not modified nor see any reason to do so as there is much latitude for sufficient change. The std Suzuki damper has too much free play  when going from side to side.

My bike weighs approx 190kg dry, I'm 1.8m tall( 5'11" ) and weigh 93kgs (205lbs)

I have a GSXR750 swingarm that I've fitted. I have not completed the final design for the shock absorber linkages as alot of ACAD drawings have had to be generated which still need work on.Then FEA of the predicted forces modelled on links, bolt connections in a dynamic mode. With this swingarm I can obtain a wheelbase of 1420mm. This is a good Xmas holiday project.

Hope this helps

[Kirk]

I also found the stock rear spring to be too stiff.

Be careful with the shorter arm on the 'Bus. The bike will turn, but the rear suspension will top out on corner exits getting on the gas, which can cause a sudden loss of rear tire traction, spinning up the rear tire.

[gazza414]

Thanks Kirk for the info, much appreciated.

I'll keep in touch as the bike evolves

regards

[shakedown3]

Please keep me informed also of the handling character of your bikes as they evolve. Thanks !  

[gazza414]

Will do guys
Kirk , I sent you an email on the 19th mate

[Kirk]

Got it. Still not sure what we are going to do, but I would look forward to meeting you face to face.