Some of this advice is a little too pro for the inexperienced.
My advise included notes on A,B, and C-group riders. I indicated that other than fork springs, stock stuff is fine for C-group.
First item you'll want is a three quarter zipper on your jacket and pants. Can't get out of group C without them.
The question was about bike prep, so I limited my comments to that.
Unless you're buying dedicated track tires, or making your busa a dedicated track bike, you don't want race tires. You want good street tires. Race tires are only good for a few heat cycles, then get MORE slippery than street tires. Also, they won't last.
Again, I made specific tire recommendations for A.B. and C-groups. Any sport tire with enough tread depth is fine for C-group, although for safety, it would be better to have a 180/55 than a 190/50. For B-group, track-day type tires are better because of the front tire traction that you're going to need on braking, and the rear tire traction that you're going to need on corner exits. A brand new set of tires is cheaper than a collar bone. For A-group, race rubber is most appropriate. You might be able to do A-group lap times slithering and sliding around on Pilot Roads or MEZ4s, but how would you feel if you took out another rider and bike because you were over-riding your tires. A brand new set of race tires in the morning that you throw away at the end of the day is the most prudent course of action. You're not out there alone, and you need to be able to fit into the group as well as possible, and that doesn't include blasting down the straights and parking it in the corners.
Stock suspension on the busa is amazing and highly adjustable. Better than anything any racers had fifteen years ago. 98% of owners I'm sure never play with the six different adjustment settings. I'm 220 pounds and my suspension setup was done by a pro and I've had three track days and bottoming the front suspension isn't a problem. Maybe there are some stock front springs that are weaker than the ones that came on my bike, but don't get the idea that your stock setup needs to be junked. Clearance on the busa is fine. Unscrew the feelers on the footpegs, get the front suspension cranked high enough that you don't bottom it, and you'll never grind engine cases or fairings. I suspect those that do either had unusually weak front springs, or more likely had their suspensions set too soft (which is often how the dealer sets up the bike). Very rare to hear about the busa touching parts due to lean angle. You can put a zip tie around your fork slider. After each ride, slide it back up. The action of the front suspension will push it down. Properly set up, it won't get within a half inch of bottom of tube.
Dood. That half inch at the bottom- that IS the bump stop. Spring selection has little to do with personal preference- It's basic arithmatic. Claiming or deciding that you "like" the stock fork springs isn't going to make them work any better. The flaccid stock .85 kilo fork noodles are correct for riders between 30 and 80 pounds, in their gear. My Hayabusa was about 75 lbs lighter than stock, and even with 1.0 kilo fork springs, I was bottoming the forks on the brakes some. But with stock fork springs, the front of the bike falls like a fainting goat any time you try to do any significant braking. Nobody here that has gone to the correct fork springs for their bike has had anything less than gushing praise for the improvement. There is no "adjustment" that's going to make the fork springs work. I don't know what kind of "pro" is going to be able to get you to 32-36 mm of sag in front with stock fork springs. You can crank the compression all the way in, and it may slow it down enough that you don't
feel it hitting the bump stops, but it is.
It is so mentally draining to have to use the throttle to try to hold the front end up in corners. If you let off the throttle, the front end falls, hard parts hit the ground, the suspension bottoms out- nothing good is going to come from it.
With the correct fork springs in it, you can just ride the bike. Until you try it with the correct fork springs in it, you really don't know what you're missing. It's a huge difference.
Unless you're experienced and fast at the track, your stock brakes should be fine as well. They can go all day with little fade. Once you spend more time and your lap times really drop, sure you can look into race pads and steel lines, but don't be surprised if these give you a less cushy feel for street riding.
As I indicated, stock brakes are fine for C-group. But you'd better have decent pads in it if you're going to be going fast. If you pack someone in A or B-group because your stock brake pads had turned into blue glass, you're not going to be very popular at the track.
EBC's "kit" race pads are extremely streetable, as are braided stainless brake lines. I don't want my brakes to feel mushy.
