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Author Topic: A Mod To Help Keep Your Busa From "Over-Heating"  (Read 39212 times)

Offline ICEMANN

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« Reply #25 on: March 23, 2005, 03:16:32 PM »
SO please repost for these folks the honda temp sensor for the fan turn on part number at least the fan will come on sooner.  OR they can put a switch in to turn the fan on manualy before it gets too hot.

JD
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Offline ICEMANN

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« Reply #26 on: March 23, 2005, 03:25:38 PM »
NEVA MIND, HERE YA GO PIMP!

Moving the IAT to the air tube has positve results read above.  (fresher air yea yea yea.)  nice decession in the overall fix.  DO IT!.

Get a metal muzzy fan blade to circulate more air thru the radiator.  Nice decession in the overall fix.  DO IT!.

Replace the temp sensor with the honda accord one to come on sooner.

Quote
"This part bolts right in the stock Suzuki temp sensor for the fan, but it turns the fan on 10* C cooler. The only problem is it uses different connectors. You can either get the plug end from a wrecked Honda Accord, or do as I did. I took small female blade type connectors and spliced them into the stock wires (you have to cut off the Suzuki plug end). I then filled the well of the connector with silicone to keep vibration from being a factor. I also used the stock black "boot" to make it look like it came that way from the factory.

The part is from a Honda Accord, the part number is 37760-P00-003

This is courtesey of Peter Anderson from Anderson Turbo, he posted this part number quite awhile back.

I think cost was under $40"
 Nice decession in the overall fix. DO IT!.

Engine ICE or water wetter as coolant.  Both have good bad points. Water wetter works better but has lower boiling point.  Engine ICE overall works great.

NEVER HAD TO ADD A SECOND FAN OR A MANUAL ON /OFF SWITCH but those are options too.  1st few are cheaper and easier.

JD
 8)
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Offline Steve A

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« Reply #27 on: March 23, 2005, 03:26:52 PM »
While moving the IAT sensor won't cure halitosis, it is a very clear and concise write up with great pics.  Keep up the good work and thanks.
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Offline JINKSTER

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« Reply #28 on: March 23, 2005, 03:35:06 PM »
Quote from: 02 busa se
best write up ive seen in a long time....what about replacing the temp switch for the fan to a lower temp one...give the bike a little head start if its getting too hot. Ive been in a 1 hour cruise..bumper to bumper pushing the bike and the only thing that got over-heated was my legs..and it was 80's outside.


80's???...LOL!!!...Heck that's winter weather down my way!!! LOL!!!
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Offline BBP1 Busa

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« Reply #29 on: March 23, 2005, 03:35:47 PM »
The part is from a Honda Accord, the part number is 37760-P00-003

 
 A BIG THANKS ICEMAM !   :thumb:  :wink:  :wink:  :wink:
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Offline ICEMANN

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« Reply #30 on: March 23, 2005, 03:40:39 PM »
Salvage yard.  Sensor and wire harness $5.00

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jd

Offline BBP1 Busa

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« Reply #31 on: March 23, 2005, 03:48:59 PM »
Quote from: ICEMANN
Salvage yard.  Sensor and wire harness $5.00




Was thinking of the same thing.   :wink:
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Offline HayaBusa Knight

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« Reply #32 on: March 23, 2005, 04:10:39 PM »
ICEMANN
BBP1 Busa
how about this for the IAT Location???

Can the IAT be placed behind airbox to protrude horizonally inwards behind the virtical piece to the right of the hand here?



 



This way being in the back of the airbox would mean it is out of the way from the heat upfront.



Quote from: BBP1 Busa
The part is from a Honda Accord, the part number is 37760-P00-003

 
 A BIG THANKS ICEMAM !   :thumb:  :wink:  :wink:  :wink:




Quote from: ICEMANN
Salvage yard.  Sensor and wire harness $5.00



ICEMANN thats the PART as in Honda Accord Car?

Also how does one add all this and add a second fan too and for both fans to come on automatically without splicing and tearing appart the wirring???

and which fan for the second fan gsx750 gsx 1000 or a second busa stock fan?
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Offline tomrux

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« Reply #33 on: March 23, 2005, 04:10:44 PM »
I may be missing the point here but surely it dont matter too much if you are stuck in traffic anyhow. the ecu has sensors for engine heat and how cares if it dont go hardest stuck going nowhere. Soon as you are moving again problem gone !!!!!

Tom
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Offline Johnnnycheese

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« Reply #34 on: March 23, 2005, 06:04:04 PM »
Quote from: CID
Anybody else from a climate that's not hot wanna chime in??  :lmao:

yep 100 degress and no problems and I am still waiting to hear how moving this sensor will make the temp guage read lower :roll:
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Offline Busa@11K

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« Reply #35 on: March 23, 2005, 06:13:02 PM »
Quote from: HayaBusa Knight
ICEMANN
BBP1 Busa
how about this for the IAT Location???

Can the IAT be placed behind airbox to protrude horizonally inwards behind the virtical piece to the right of the hand here?



This way being in the back of the airbox would mean it is out of the way from the heat upfront.


Moving the IAT sensor to the side of the airbox isn't going to help because all the heat coming off the motor basically heats up the whole airbox if there is not movement of the bike to get some airflow over these areas.
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Offline MATT_WRIGHT

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« Reply #36 on: March 23, 2005, 06:28:29 PM »
As as safety note DON'T DRY SPRAY THE AIR BOX IF YOU MOVE THE IAT.  You'll be sorry.
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Offline DJ

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« Reply #37 on: March 23, 2005, 06:41:34 PM »
I think Jinkster is just saying moving the sensor will prevent the motor from running a little leaner.

The trick to not worrying about that is keep the bike from getting that hot in the first place. 2nd fan.

Or, split lanes and and keep moving heh
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Offline CID

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« Reply #38 on: March 23, 2005, 07:11:37 PM »
Quote from: Johnnnycheese
Quote from: CID
Anybody else from a climate that's not hot wanna chime in??  :lmao:

yep 100 degress and no problems and I am still waiting to hear how moving this sensor will make the temp guage read lower :roll:



Geeze Johnny...ya act like ya build these things or something.  :lol:

You musta missed the part where he said that it was the lean condition causin it to heat up.


What I do is just not put gas in the thing.  That way the HP will be a little lower and the bike won't work as hard.  Works great during the summer.   Just gotta figure out how to get it to go now. :mrgreen:


(just yakin yer chain j, don't take me serious, I'm about the last person that knows anything about these things. Take note though..Johnny and a few others not yet posting on this will show you the money) ;)
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Offline HayaBusa Knight

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« Reply #39 on: March 23, 2005, 07:39:19 PM »
Quote from: Busa@11K


Moving the IAT sensor to the side of the airbox isn't going to help because all the heat coming off the motor basically heats up the whole airbox if there is not movement of the bike to get some airflow over these areas.



ah ok...
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Offline 99mainebusa

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« Reply #40 on: March 23, 2005, 08:38:06 PM »
what happens if you dry spray the air box wit the ait sensor moved?
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Offline Nosgsx1300

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« Reply #41 on: March 23, 2005, 08:59:27 PM »
http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=25411&highlight=fan
is a thread about the fan switch
NOT a drirect replacement
the plug is different
I cut mine off and put connectors on it
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Offline MATT_WRIGHT

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« Reply #42 on: March 23, 2005, 09:07:04 PM »
Great write-up JINKSTER.  People hae been doing this mod for other reasons for a long time.  Well thought out, and a lot of time spent to help others.  This little trick works well for bracket racers if you have to hot lap a bike.  The bike will run more consistant.


Most members have stopped offering advise because there is always some ass that wants to sound smarter, or just slam people.  Thank you JINKSTER.
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Matt Wright

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« Reply #43 on: March 23, 2005, 09:16:05 PM »
Motorhead has a fan sensor relocator that is used on the turbo bikes....it places the sensor on the right side of the rad, so the water temp reading is higher and causes the fan to come on early.

The IAT thing works for performance, The fan mod works for temps.... :wink:

http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=43009&highlight=water+temp
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Offline Shamrock

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« Reply #44 on: March 23, 2005, 10:01:50 PM »
JINKSTER
I wasnt pissing on your thread just making a point,Im sorry if you feel i was.Good write up none the less.I can understand that the IAT being moved might  help riching up the system and cause maybe a couple of degree's change in the temp but i dont see it making much of a diffrence as it  does in performance. Like i said if you want cooloer temp put a bypass switch on the temp sensor and flip it when its stats to get warm.
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Offline Busa Quick

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« Reply #45 on: March 23, 2005, 10:14:32 PM »
Try starting your bike after having it turned off for about 2 minutes. The AIT  gets hot and the engine gets P.O.ed and doesn't want to start. A fan switch isn't going to help while you are tring to start it up.



  As always fell free to correct me if I am wrong.

Mark
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Offline Johnnnycheese

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« Reply #46 on: March 24, 2005, 08:48:55 AM »
yet I still want to hear how this mod will make the water temp guage read lower?

Matt spraying a dry shot with the sensor moved does change squat. that sensor acts so slow that you are at the end of the 1/4 before it richens :wink:
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Offline IronBrad

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« Reply #47 on: March 24, 2005, 09:07:13 AM »
Jinkster...Another "Good Job" chime in. You need thick skin on some of these Busa boards. Remember there are a lot of us that are fairly new to this bike that has been out for a long time. We have not seen all of the mods and we are receptive and not jaded. Keep up the good work.

Brad

P.S. Lean may not be the root cause of overheating but it sure can aggravate it! Besides, sounds like the concept promotes a more accurate inlet air temp for a better ECU mixture whether or not one wants to think of it in an overheating context.
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Offline MATT_WRIGHT

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« Reply #48 on: March 24, 2005, 09:11:38 AM »
Your bikes must go down the quarter faster than all the nitrous bikes I build.  It sends feedback to the ECU in 10 milisecond incraments.  Lets do it on one of your motors then.  I have been spraying a lot of nitrous for a long time.  Dry and wet.  If you move the sensor up front you will burn pistons or plugs when fogging the air box with the ram air working.  NOT ON THE DYNO.  Don't mislead people here.  How would it make you feel if someone read what you just posted, they put a 40 shot in the air box with the sensor moved?  I realize it's not your parts, but have some mercy.
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Offline MATT_WRIGHT

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« Reply #49 on: March 24, 2005, 09:20:11 AM »
Quote from: Johnnnycheese

Matt spraying a dry shot with the sensor moved does change squat. that sensor acts so slow that you are at the end of the 1/4 before it richens :wink:


You're wrong.  The enrichening happens very quickly when the ram air is working.  Run EGT's or an O2 sensor with a data logger down the track.
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