The Frankenbusa Saga. Holy crap I'm still here!

[cstraubs1]

Unfortunetly,I know exactly what your talking about....

[dtechnologies]

You haven't seen any updates on this project because I went and managed to twist my spine somehow (or so my chiropractor tells me).

Good news is that work has begun here at home on my custom ECU side of the project.

I've been able to verify that I'll be able to use it (as long as I can get the software right) to do the following:

- Fire Injectors
- Trigger coils
- Trigger water injection (if implemented)
- Operate the fuel pump
- Operate the cooling fan
- Operate the airshifter (upshift at x rpm)
- Control boost (the mechanical side of this is still in the air. At the very least it will be a 2 stage boost control switched by the ECU).
- Interface with gear position sensor...less boost in lower gears?
- Wheelie control. Reduce boost when wheel is in the air
- Wide band O2 sensor interface.

In my configuring and brainstorming, I've hit a bit of an impass. The crank trigger for my '01 has 8 equal teeth...this is proving near impossible to implement with the software I'm using. Anybody know where I can get a 24-1 tooth stator like on newer (2003+) models without breaking the bank or feeding the dealerships?

I'm also having difficulty figuring out the position of the sensors (crank and cam) in relation to the teeth...it's hard to measure the offset in degree's when the sensor is mounted to the cover. It seems even Autronic or Motec units don't like the original sensor configuration so I haven't found much help that way either.

I'm hoping to get back into the garage this week so I can make the oil lines and start making brackets to mount the ECU, intercooler, and start work fabricating the plenum.

[dtechnologies]

You haven't seen any updates on this project because I went and managed to twist my spine somehow (or so my chiropractor tells me).

Good news is that work has begun here at home on my custom ECU side of the project.

I've been able to verify that I'll be able to use it (as long as I can get the software right) to do the following:

- Fire Injectors
- Trigger coils
- Trigger water injection (if implemented)
- Operate the fuel pump
- Operate the cooling fan
- Operate the airshifter (upshift at x rpm)
- Control boost (the mechanical side of this is still in the air. At the very least it will be a 2 stage boost control switched by the ECU).
- Interface with gear position sensor...less boost in lower gears?
- Wheelie control. Reduce boost when wheel is in the air
- Wide band O2 sensor interface.

In my configuring and brainstorming, I've hit a bit of an impass. The crank trigger for my '01 has 8 equal teeth...this is proving near impossible to implement with the software I'm using. Anybody know where I can get a 24-1 tooth stator like on newer (2003+) models without breaking the bank or feeding the evil devilworshiping dealerships?

I'm also having difficulty figuring out the position of the sensors (crank and cam) in relation to the teeth...it's hard to measure the offset in degree's when the sensor is mounted to the cover. It seems even Autronic or Motec units don't like the original sensor configuration so I haven't found much help that way either.

I'm hoping to get back into the garage this week so I can make the oil lines and start making brackets to mount the ECU, intercooler, and start work fabricating the plenum.

[dtechnologies]

You haven't seen any updates on this project because I went and managed to twist my spine somehow (or so my chiropractor tells me).

Good news is that work has begun here at home on my custom ECU side of the project.

I've been able to verify that I'll be able to use it (as long as I can get the software right) to do the following:

- Fire Injectors
- Trigger coils
- Trigger water injection (if implemented)
- Operate the fuel pump
- Operate the cooling fan
- Operate the airshifter (upshift at x rpm)
- Control boost (the mechanical side of this is still in the air. At the very least it will be a 2 stage boost control switched by the ECU).
- Interface with gear position sensor...less boost in lower gears?
- Wheelie control. Reduce boost when wheel is in the air
- Wide band O2 sensor interface.

In my configuring and brainstorming, I've hit a bit of an impass. The crank trigger for my '01 has 8 equal teeth...this is proving near impossible to implement with the software I'm using. Anybody know where I can get a 24-1 tooth stator like on newer (2003+) models without breaking the bank or feeding the evil devilworshiping dealerships?

I'm also having difficulty figuring out the position of the sensors (crank and cam) in relation to the teeth...it's hard to measure the offset in degree's when the sensor is mounted to the cover. It seems even Autronic or Motec units don't like the original sensor configuration so I haven't found much help that way either.

I'm hoping to get back into the garage this week so I can make the oil lines and start making brackets to mount the ECU, intercooler, and start work fabricating the plenum.

[dtechnologies]

Considering the ghetto nature of my entire project, I didn't want to buy a new wastegate. However I was unable to find an inexpensive Tial gate used...I guess they're so good nobody is getting rid of them.

I managed to find a wastegate for just $130 bucks from a guy who does salvage for euro stuff. It's from an older Audi 5000 quattro but it's rebuilt with a new diaphram and looks practically new for all intents and purposes...it's hard to believe it was ever installed in something(I'll post a picture when I get a chance).

I've spoken to Audi guys at an internet forum and this wastegate comes stock with a 10# spring and has been known to last over 300,000km in daily drivers without failing. Bigger and heavier than a Tial by a longshot but at this point in the game looks don't mean much.

[dtechnologies]

I finally got the flanges cut for the wastegate and dump.

I'm going with a rebuilt wastegate off of an Audi. It's big, it's proven reliable, it's heavy, ... and it's already got a 10# spring!

I can tell already that fitting it in is going to be a trick. straight off the side of the header, it will still stick out past the frame. I'm going to run a 2" pipe with a 'more than 90' degree bend out of the back of the headers where there's just enough room to cut out a 2" hole.

It's going to join up with the 2.5" dump so closely that I'm not sure how I'm going to get bolts in to hold the wastegate outlet flange to the wastegate. I may end up turning the wastegate so the outlet is pointing more forward and then join them up with a bent section of 1.5" tube instead of a straight piece.

The plan is to run the 2.5" dump close enough to the engine that if I lay the bike down, the frame sliders will take the brunt of it. I don't want to loose the ceramic powder coating I'm going to have put on when I'm done.

I'm also considering welding an ear onto the dump so that I can bolt it to the front right engine stand mount...just for a bit of insurance.

[Busafied™]

The plan is to run the 2.5" dump close enough to the engine that if I lay the bike down, the frame sliders will take the brunt of it. I don't want to loose the ceramic powder coating I'm going to have put on when I'm done.

I'm also considering welding an ear onto the dump so that I can bolt it to the front right engine stand mount...just for a bit of insurance.

Sounds like a Trick idea to me

My 50mm was a b!tch to mount LMAO!

think yours sticks out any further LOL NOT!

not much a choice with a bigass 50mm Gate, whos Springs are larger then the entire height of a Tial 35mm lol



Good Luck Man!

Ron

[crazybill]

i like the msd coil setup . if i had room for one i wouldnt mind having one . back in the day when i ran one on mt car it wasnt intended for use on the street (somthing about the coil overheating its self ?) i assume that issue was left back in the day ?

looks good so far , good luck with the rest !

[dtechnologies]

Today I fabbed the dump pipe and started to mount the wastegate. And I remembered my camera! (though it looks from the date stamps that I forgot something else).

Instead of running twin dump pipes, I connected the outlet of the wastegate directly to the dump just after it leaves the turbo...the radiator hides the ugly pretty well  

I hooked the bike up to the lift and leaned it over to the right to check for clearance on the dump pipe. I can't believe how far the bike leans before the pegs touch even though I've lowered it so much. No wonder I never dragged the pegs!

I've replaced the header bolts with studs. Much to my surprise, I was able to reuse 5 of the original bolts to mount the turbine outlet flange to the turbo and the other 3 fit the outlet of the wastegate perfectly.


There's something satisfying about a big fat dump.



A rare picture of me.


The 3" adapter was surprisingly easy to make out of some aluminum tube and plate...the bolts for this were recycled too...don't remember what part of the bike I took them off of.

[SuperGrizz]

Man, I hope this bike sets records when you're done, given all the work you've put in. Any cost estimates to date?

[dtechnologies]

Let me see...roughly speaking from memory (I haven't been keeping track...I could go back and count dollars and cents but then I'd run the risk of the wife finding out hehehe). All costs are in Canadian dollars.

bike: $7500 cash.
T3, 60 series Turbo: $200
50mm Wastegate: $140 (Thanks eBay)
Fuel and ignition parts: $450
Engine components from Schnitz: $600
VEMS fuel injection stuff $600
Raw metal for exhaust and intake: $150 (and counting)
MIG wire: $20
Headlights: $30 (Surplus Hella projectors)
'98 R1 seat: 99 cents (eBay baby!)
Paintball CO2 bottle: $40 (filled)
Air cylinder: $30
Swing Arm extensions: $100 (another eBay gem)
Air Filter: $30
Chopped oil pan $80
Oil and fuel line fittings: $100
Intercooler: $60 (you guessed it. eBay)
s2000 injectors: $220
Iridium spark plugs: Free!
Aluminum frame sliders: $30 (yeah. eBay again...seeing a trend yet?)
Centech wiring harness: $225

Total including bike: 10,406 (a new Hayabusa here is $15,000)
In US dollars: 6205 for the bike + 2404 parts = $8609 USD

Not bad for an intercooled turbo Hayabusa with (I hope) 300HP.

I still need a few things (chain, joints for uppipe & incooler, minor electrical stuff, Buell foot pegs, etc) but no one thing that's really expensive. Plus I'm sure I've left a few things out. And I'm not counting tools I made/bought for the project...I'd have bought them sooner or later, regardless.

And if you want to get really technical, subtract the parts I sold to make up for the parts purchased. I stripped everything off that wasn't required to make it run...streetfighter style. I know. That doesn't really count... unless you're trying to measure how much of a cheap bastard I am.

[Busafied™]

intercooler pics?

Looking Good!

[dtechnologies]

intercooler pics?

Looking Good!

As soon as it's mounted. I'm still figuring out the brackets.

[bajabug]

\
And if you want to get really technical, subtract the parts I sold to make up for the parts purchased. I stripped everything off that wasn't required to make it run...streetfighter style. I know. That doesn't really count... unless you're trying to measure how much of a cheap bastard I am.

HAHA,  the same reason i made my turbo busa a street fighter too.  i guess ya gotta have priorities, and we know ours, BOOST!!

PS. i shaved near 70 lbs off my bike in body work and associated parts.

[dtechnologies]

I'm getting a little crazy with weight. My subframe and seat together should only weigh a few pounds at most (the wife will have to walk or get her own bike   ).

I've got a carbon fiber race seat and chain guard coming as we speak...I'd give my left nut for a Catalyst carbon fiber tank.

In other news, my aluminum velocity stacks came today! Hopefully I can build the plenum this weekend...pictures to come!

[bajabug]

any new pics?  i hear ya on the carbon tank...very sweet part, especially the smaller drag one...  i think id make an aluminum one b4 i would buy a carbon one.

[dtechnologies]

I'll have some pictures posted by the end of the week.

I considered having a custom tank made and just covering it with a fiberglass pro-stock tank...a friend of mine is trying to convince me to put the gas in the frame like a Buell...that's going a little far.

And I doubt the IHRA tech boys would pass it.

[dtechnologies]

I was only able to build half the air box on the weekend due to the fact that some of the aluminum I bought was wrong. I went as far as I could without needing the right stuff. I'll finish tomorrow I think.

I have pictures but my mouse crapped out so you'll have to hang tight until I can get a new one.

[dtechnologies]

Well due to a mismeasurement in regards to tank clearance, I bought the wrong size aluminum tube and had to improvise...what else is new. Because of this, I didn't get the plenum built on Sunday like planned. I'm hoping to get it finished tomorrow but it's almost impossible to find bent aluminum tube around here. I wonder if straight tube can be mandrel bent like steel pipe.

Here's what I've got so far:

Here are the aluminum velocity stacks I bought off the webertron. They're almost a near perfect fit. They're being held to the throttle bodies together with 43 cents worth of Heavy Duty rad hose...too bad I had to buy a 3 foot length for $2.60, hah!


Here's where things got screwed up a bit. I wanted 3"x4" aluminum tube but the metal shops didn't have any. I bought 4"x4" thinking it would fit based on my measurements...I was wrong. I cut 1 inch down the length with a jig saw, cut 4 holes in that plate for the stacks, then flipped it 180 to make a 3x4 which I will then weld or braze back together. I had to cut the left hand side at a bit of an angle to get it to clear the tank but only a little. As it's shown in the picture (mocked using zip ties to test clearance) it's just touching the heat shield in 2 spots...and only gently, the tank closes fine under it's own weight.

Right now I'm wrestling with how to get the inlet bent down and forward to go through the hole in the frame to meet up with the intercooler on the outside.

[Scary-Jerry]

Right now I'm wrestling with how to get the inlet bent down and forward to go through the hole in the frame to meet up with the intercooler on the outside.

More radiator hose?

[Bonedust]

correwct me if im wrong, but isnt a square cornered plenum a tad tough on air flow?

[dtechnologies]

correwct me if im wrong, but isnt a square cornered plenum a tad tough on air flow?

It's less than ideal...I'm making do with what I have to work with. It's my hope that the velocity stacks will compensate a bit by smoothing out the flow as air enters the throttle bodies.

But I've seen uglier airboxes on turbo applications...

[dtechnologies]

Last night I was finally able to mount the oil return line. I can't believe how little space I left myself...it wasn't easy to get the length right when you're only talking about a few inches.

The 2 halves of the airbox are together. I just have to put the sides on. And I still have to figure out the best way to do the inlet. Ideally, I'd like to have the inlet come in smack dead in the center but that would mean the intake pipe would have to be even more convoluted... I'm going to phone around today and see if any of the muffler shops in town have experience mandrel bending aluminum tube without cracking it.

My carbon fiber parts showed up yesterday. I'm very impressed with how strong and at the same time how light carbon fiber is. The seat and chain guard I picked up off of eBay are made by Feather Carbon. I must confess, I got what I paid for. The fit and finish isn't that great and the chain guard twists away from the rear sprocket when you bolt it down. The seller works directly with the manufacturer so I'm seeing if something can be done. Even though I would only consider these parts OK, I will definately buy more carbon fiber. I'd like to do the fenders and eventually the tank.

[dtechnologies]

Last night I was finally able to mount the oil return line. I can't believe how little space I left myself...it wasn't easy to get the length right when you're only talking about a few inches.

The 2 halves of the airbox are together. I just have to put the sides on. And I still have to figure out the best way to do the inlet. Ideally, I'd like to have the inlet come in smack dead in the center but that would mean the intake pipe would have to be even more convoluted... I'm going to phone around today and see if any of the muffler shops in town have experience mandrel bending aluminum tube without cracking it.

My carbon fiber parts showed up yesterday. I'm very impressed with how strong and at the same time how light carbon fiber is. The seat and chain guard I picked up off of eBay are made by Feather Carbon. I must confess, I got what I paid for. The fit and finish isn't that great and the chain guard twists away from the rear sprocket when you bolt it down. The seller works directly with the manufacturer so I'm seeing if something can be done. Even though I would only consider these parts OK, I will definately buy more carbon fiber. I'd like to do the fenders and eventually the tank.

[dtechnologies]

I managed to get the phone number of the owner of Feather Carbon...we'll see what happens...hopefully it'll all work out.

I'm still tossing and turning at night trying to figure out how to connect the airbox with the intercooler. Between a severe lack of proper parts and an even more severe lack of funds, I've come down to a couple possibilities:

1) Go with a 2 1/4 inch plated steel pipe custom bent by a muffler shop using a press bender. This I think is the cheapest solution...but it'll look like crap...it's not like that ever mattered to me though.

2) Buy stainless steel mandrel U bends from a muffler shop (either 2" or 2-1/4"), cut them up and use multiple joints made from rad hose to join them all together. This is more expensive but I don't have a quote on stainless mandrel U bends yet. Like everything else that's specialty around here, they're likely to be overpriced.

The lesser of 2 evils. Non mandrel bends or lots of hose joints. I'm thinking plan 1 won't be too bad. Non mandrel bends are more restrictive but at 2-1/4" I don't think I'll notice the difference.