Ron,
I have the same set-up that you do and mine always worked fine. I recently put a high volume oil gear in it and now I have oil seeping into my catch can breather line and it dumps oil out of it. I used to run the breather line to the top of my cases and it was fine. I extended it to the throttle bodies and it still leaks. Now I've extended it to the top of the plenum and when I get out of work I'm going to see if it leaks again.
Here's my question:
Did you put a restricter in the oil feed to the turbo? If you did what size did you go with?
Do you have the high volume gear or valve in your motor?
Any other suggestions for me?
Jason
Jason you and Jake both worked with me a few years ago when the problem first started with mine.
Originally I ran it back to the sprocket cover area then up around the back of the motor on left side to the front of the motor, for months I had no issue what so ever.
Then out of the blue it started puking on a ride, had to cut it short and head home.
I ran it to the breather per Jake and had it "T"d off it to the front of my plenum, just made it worse.
You tried to help me, but that didn't work either.
I had determined that running it backwards let it lay too low and the trickling oil splatter inside would eventually pool in the low spot of the vent line causing it to build up and puke.
SO- I rerouted it to the front and up.
With the hose running from the front of my MCX catch can (on turbo) behind the rad zip tied to my up pipe to above my motor then facing forward is how I have it today.
I had it laying on the ground and it would still trickle even with everything fixed so to speak.
so I know going straight up was optimal, in assisting gravity and hoping that would keep the oil down low where it belongs. I dunno just keeping fingers crossed till I can road test it.
**YES on Restricter, per Turbonetics I am required to run a .060 no less or it voids my warranty.
I have 2 actually inline now.
I was told by my friend that sold it to me (builds exotics in Fl, Supras, Lambos, Ferraris < etc) DO NOT cut the flow down further then the .060 like they recommend.
1 AT the turbo inlet, 1 AT the Line side tap at the motor, both .060
**NO on the HV oil gear running standard internal (oiling wise.)
** Pull your cover on the MCX pump and check the gears, found mine to be boogered, something made it from the engine through the turbo and into my pump.
My shaft is tweaked and the gears have a nick, wished I could find SOMEWHERE TO GET THEM !!!!! HINT SOMEONE!!!
anyway- sorry just bent a little still after no one responding from the appropriate company's...
** ALSO I recommend if you have no nicks in your gears to get a inline filter to put ahead of the pump as a precaution, yes I know it's another pain in the wazoo to have to check it but I have tried for 2 yrs to get MCXPress and Richard at RCC to help me get another pump, NOTHING- NADDA- ZIP!!!!!!!!!!!!!
here's the one I recommend or find one similar from one of the vendors on the board, good luck on that....
part numbers and pricing is at bottom of page.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htmSub Micron filer for inlet of pump :
03-1046 Sub Micron Oil Filter on the pump's inlet port.
I was also looking at a pressure limiting inline pc from same people :
We also can supply a 1/4" female NPT, 25 psi viton seal check valve (03-1047) for high pressure oil feed lines on Garrett GT series ball bearing turbos to drop oil line pressure 25 psi.
also they have this, I had though about putting it on my vent line facing where incoming air (suction from pump) pulls it open , but closes when oil starts to come back out vent tube..
A 1/8 NPT, 1 psi viton seal check valve (03-1039) is available for the turbo oil feed port. This prevents capillary bleed-down of oil in the engine from entering the turbo after engine shutdown.
So for now with what you have though..
Only suggestion is to run the line from the front of the catch can forward and straight up following the uppipe and securing it to there.
Then test to see if that helped, use something to catch the oil though because it can puke and make a mess.
I made that see through catch can out of a "self tapper container" from home depot (needed screws).Just used some flared pipe (2 - pcs) and jb welded it into the lid, 1 to fit the vent line onto, and 1 to vent to atmosphere.
It was a cheap solution (free because I had the container on the shelf and flare tool and some brake line laying around)) to let me view my oil prob and find the source, I did that in 2007/2008 and it worked then still using it today for tests, comes in handy when bleeding brakes too LOL.
GL-
Ron
