Haybusa Parts and Service Member Support

Author Topic: $  (Read 7111 times)

Offline Joker_101

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$
« on: March 19, 2006, 05:46:44 AM »
What is the least expensive way to get 200hp from a stock busa
with everyday reliablility?(no nitrous) Your opinon would be appreciated. :)

Offline busamagic

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Re: $
« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2006, 08:25:10 AM »
stock bore flat top pistons,cams,headwork and a good tuner
Cruising on a Harley



Offline Quijinn

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Re: $
« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2006, 12:43:51 PM »
turbo, seriously. By time you spend money on exhaust, pistons, cams, head work. 200 hp is easy with a turbo, I was going the NA route but now I am going turbo. Shooting for 275 on pump gas with a IC and full exhaust. I will prob have a hindle Gen 3 for sale soon :)
Hi my name is Mark and I am a Bikeaholic.     Be carefull how fast you race through life, the finish line is death, and the trophy is a headstone.  Our perspective is how we judge our lives, to judge others we need a little change in our perspective.

Offline Skeeter

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Re: $
« Reply #3 on: March 19, 2006, 01:07:00 PM »
Thinking about the same thing myself.  Haven't done a lot of research on the topic but I see that a velocity racing stage 1 kit is about 4 grand (plus a PC).

Going the engine work route with cams, pistons, headwork and PC you would spend at least that much plus installation time takes a lot longer than installing the turbo kit.

Not sure about the increased heat load as that would definitely affect reliability.  I would think the cooling system would have to be upgraded.

'04 purple/black 'Busa, Yoshimura stainless canisters, gel seat, 'busa tank cover, heated grips, Scorpio alarm.

Offline Quijinn

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Re: $
« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2006, 02:52:18 PM »
Go with a ghetto kit, use's a better turbo and external waste gate so no boost creep.

You can run 4-6 psi and pick up 40-60 hp easy on pump. Have little to no effect on cruise, motor will last and its still just as easy to start.

N/A is cool, and there fast, but its just harder and more expensive to make hp with N/A. I think you can do a full ghetto 230 ish hp on pump gas for around 4k.
Hi my name is Mark and I am a Bikeaholic.     Be carefull how fast you race through life, the finish line is death, and the trophy is a headstone.  Our perspective is how we judge our lives, to judge others we need a little change in our perspective.

Offline Joker_101

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Re: $
« Reply #5 on: March 19, 2006, 02:55:38 PM »
I thought of the turbo, but I live in Los Angeles and theres
no where to ride it around here. I also dont have the time
and don't want to do the mechanic work to deal
with the annoyances of a turbo.

Offline mountainmotor

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Re: $
« Reply #6 on: March 19, 2006, 04:29:43 PM »
On same topic and to save money on the portwork for the non home porters .

Will a 91 octane only 12.5-12.8 1397 be enough compression to catch up enough with some 425/415 cams and still have any kind of usable mid-range and could that get close to 200 with a stock unported head ?  Same question for 415/395's .

Offline Joker_101

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Re: $
« Reply #7 on: March 19, 2006, 05:04:08 PM »
whats the difference between bigger cams and smaller cams?
example- 385 webcams and smaller web cams

Offline Quijinn

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Re: $
« Reply #8 on: March 19, 2006, 09:09:27 PM »
I think those cams are to big for a stock head, I think the 385/360 combo would be better. If you port the head then the bigger cams might help.
Hi my name is Mark and I am a Bikeaholic.     Be carefull how fast you race through life, the finish line is death, and the trophy is a headstone.  Our perspective is how we judge our lives, to judge others we need a little change in our perspective.

Offline Skeeter

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Re: $
« Reply #9 on: March 19, 2006, 09:16:40 PM »
whats the difference between bigger cams and smaller cams?
example- 385 webcams and smaller web cams

More valve lift and longer duration (very good results with Web racing cam and JE hc piston on my DR650 plus head porting/polishing by hand - ok since it's a single).  

If I go the N/A route I would spend the bucks on getting the 'Busa head ported by a shop that uses CNC machining and flow tests the results for uniformity - not cheap.
« Last Edit: March 19, 2006, 09:37:31 PM by Skeeter »
'04 purple/black 'Busa, Yoshimura stainless canisters, gel seat, 'busa tank cover, heated grips, Scorpio alarm.

Offline Joker_101

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Re: $
« Reply #10 on: March 19, 2006, 09:25:30 PM »
I dont know maybe I will go turbo.
I could wait for a used one to come along.

Offline Skeeter

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Re: $
« Reply #11 on: March 19, 2006, 11:43:00 PM »
It's all about dollars for sure.  A hard sell for me.  It would be much easier to justify if the engine had to be taken apart to fix something (as on my DR650 - blown cylinder base gasket) - might as well do upgrades at the same time.  No problems to date (and no issues with performance - I'm still in awe :shock:)
'04 purple/black 'Busa, Yoshimura stainless canisters, gel seat, 'busa tank cover, heated grips, Scorpio alarm.

Offline Thomas Lindemann

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Re: $
« Reply #12 on: March 20, 2006, 10:47:19 AM »
I think with the price and quality of a ghetto kit it is very hard to argue with the amount of power it produces vs and all motor bike. I myself have really thought about it in the past and have spent way more money on my motor than many turbo systems cost but have always loved the simplicity and detail of a all motor (and Ive owned a turbo bike before so have a basis for comparison) I think there is something to be said for pure nuts they don't have the power a turbo makes but many set up right will embarrass a turbo at least in a sprint. If I was you and that was a path you were gonna go I would build a 1397 flat top motor with the deck set up a little tight. A good set of cams somewhere around .380 to .385 in and ex (Brock's cams would be a high recommendation) with fairly low lobe centers, long and short stacks and a small box mod and a really good map. Even with a stock head and the above you would get close to 200 but should make a torquey street motor that would haul around a heavy bike. Stock bore is one way with a ported head and cams but I think the  power band  isn't as broad as a bigger bore and it wont make as much torque. depends on what you want to accomplish

Offline Joker_101

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Re: $
« Reply #13 on: March 20, 2006, 09:24:55 PM »
whats a flat top motor? Are the 1397's from
APE flat top motors?
« Last Edit: March 21, 2006, 12:31:29 AM by Joker_101 »

Offline Thomas Lindemann

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Re: $
« Reply #14 on: March 21, 2006, 12:58:01 AM »
By flat top motor I mean a Flat top piston. IF they are J&E's then they are flat tops I want to say they are 12.8:1s

Offline gazza414

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Re: $
« Reply #15 on: March 21, 2006, 04:53:02 AM »
I dont believe there is a "least expensive" way to get 200hp out of a stock bore stroke motor... ( NOS excluded) without the use of an optimistic dyno. :D
« Last Edit: March 21, 2006, 04:58:48 AM by gazza414 »
1 Fast Hayabusa N/A 217.443mph so far

Offline mountainmotor

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Re: $
« Reply #16 on: March 21, 2006, 05:52:36 AM »
It could be more like ,

How "close" can I get to 200 without spending the bucks on a ported head and without using a zillion dollar pipe .

A stout 190hp engine just might outrun on the street the 200 hp dyno queen thats using the spike as peak hp and have more usable power in the middle .

Offline JW OLDBUSA

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Re: $
« Reply #17 on: March 21, 2006, 06:34:35 AM »
What is the least expensive way to get 200hp from a stock busa
with everyday reliablility?(no nitrous) Your opinon would be appreciated. :)

http://www.carpenterracing.com/hayabusa.htm#240hp_busa
1397= MY AFFORDABLE TURBO