Author Topic: factory pro hayabusa stacks (Read 31974 times) Tweet

gsteve1 · « **Reply #50 on:** May 12, 2007, 12:38:00 PM »

well.... got a set off fleabay.... guess ill see soon . If im gonna have stax , may as well have shiney ones. sj

glenn71 · « **Reply #51 on:** May 20, 2007, 06:47:27 AM »

Did a 10.024 at 143.67mph with them in at 710lbs total weight.Stock height,gearing,length.Set the shift light a 10000rpm.Thats with a 1.80 60ft.Its hard to consistently do sub 1.8,s stock height.I changed my stretched timing chain and picked up some mid range torque which helped .Must have realigned the cam timing, because it honks now.

Tybalt71 · « **Reply #52 on:** May 21, 2007, 07:59:11 AM »

Quote from: mountainmotor on March 20, 2007, 02:23:47 PM

Has anyone tried the Schnitz mixed stacks ?

Yes i have them , the street(2 short(41mm) 2 tall(65mm?) and the race(41mm short), I find with the street set -up, better low end, they are very good quality, pain i nthe azz to get them seated, but i really like them.

gsteve1 · « **Reply #53 on:** June 06, 2007, 03:47:24 PM »

puttin mine in this weekend.... hope i can control all the extra hp

Johnnnycheese · « **Reply #54 on:** June 06, 2007, 09:23:42 PM »

Quote from: gazza414 on March 20, 2007, 09:31:18 PM

Chet , how do you go about triming individual cyls ? what data do you use ?

Trim????? you canmap each cylinder. screw trimming

gsteve1 · « **Reply #55 on:** June 06, 2007, 10:41:41 PM »

JC.... glad to see you back dude. You try these yet?

gazza414 · « **Reply #56 on:** June 07, 2007, 04:32:11 PM »

Quote from: Johnnnycheese on June 06, 2007, 09:23:42 PM

Quote from: gazza414 on March 20, 2007, 09:31:18 PM
Chet , how do you go about triming individual cyls ? what data do you use ?

Trim????? you canmap each cylinder. screw trimming

JC , I never got an answer from CHET...can only assume he's either using 4 widebands or EGT's OR better still a combination of the 2.

JDookie · « **Reply #57 on:** June 13, 2007, 07:15:39 PM »

I am anxiously waiting for the results of this test. The outcome of Yngve's test will determine whether I stay with the all short oem's or switch to Chet's.

gsteve1 · « **Reply #58 on:** June 13, 2007, 11:04:39 PM »

I have mine in now..... ya know i went from a 16 tooth to a 17 at the same time i installed these. Tonite i short shifted into 2 and rolled on hard and the front wheel started comin up. i dont think it did that last year. Soooo...

The Olde King · « **Reply #59 on:** June 14, 2007, 11:56:22 PM »

Last season I bought a set of Chet's custom short stacks, took it to the dyno and found that they cost me a couple of ponies on the top and about six through the middle rpms. This was AFTER remapping to them. Switching back to all OEM shorts brought the power back to where it was prior to making this change, so I conclude that, at least for my particular set-up, they did not work.Mine is a 1397 with a ported( Sharkey) head and .385/252 Megas on both sides, degreed to 105/107. The pipe is a TiForce Sumo. Small modded box w/BMC race filter.

JDookie · « **Reply #60 on:** June 15, 2007, 10:36:09 AM »

Quote from: The Olde King on June 14, 2007, 11:56:22 PM

Last season I bought a set of Chet's custom short stacks, took it to the dyno and found that they cost me a couple of ponies on the top and about six through the middle rpms. This was AFTER remapping to them. Switching back to all OEM shorts brought the power back to where it was prior to making this change, so I conclude that, at least for my particular set-up, they did not work.Mine is a 1397 with a ported( Sharkey) head and .385/252 Megas on both sides, degreed to 105/107. The pipe is a TiForce Sumo. Small modded box w/BMC race filter.

We basically have the exact same engine mods, I just have bigger cams, so thank you very much for the post. You just saved me some duckies, lol.

THE ICE MAN · « **Reply #61 on:** June 15, 2007, 02:17:27 PM »

Quote from: The Olde King on June 14, 2007, 11:56:22 PM

Last season I bought a set of Chet's custom short stacks, took it to the dyno and found that they cost me a couple of ponies on the top and about six through the middle rpms. This was AFTER remapping to them. Switching back to all OEM shorts brought the power back to where it was prior to making this change, so I conclude that, at least for my particular set-up, they did not work.Mine is a 1397 with a ported( Sharkey) head and .385/252 Megas on both sides, degreed to 105/107. The pipe is a TiForce Sumo. Small modded box w/BMC race filter.

I had the same results !
I went slower !

The Olde King · « **Reply #62 on:** June 16, 2007, 05:24:59 AM »

I just want to mention that Chet was a total class act in regard to the sale of these stacks.He offered them to me at a fantastic price and when informed of the poor results, he offered a full refund. You can't beat that for customer service! I want to emphasize that, although my set up may not have jived with these stacks,other configurations may yield positive results. Dragzooks reported a nice gain when using them on a hotter spec engine.

glenn71 · « **Reply #63 on:** June 16, 2007, 08:37:16 AM »

I,ve been sticking with these 65mm factory pro stacks at the drags.Currently have run 145mph in cool air and have been shifting at 9800 coil rpm or approx 10200 tacho revs for best results.Have not been bettered for mph by guys running their bikes to 11000rpm(tacho revs) using all factory shorts.Would like to try 2 42mm and 2 65mm factory pros though, to see how the torque/power curve shapes up.I want to fit a lambda though to check the air fuel at the track to optimise it though.

spdingtkts · « **Reply #64 on:** June 17, 2007, 09:57:47 PM »

Here is the cheap way to play around with stack heights.

Remove all the stock stacks from the air box. There is a lip there that holds the stacks in place. Grind the lip off so the bottom of the air box is flush.

Buy four air box boots for a CBR 900 RR. With the lip removed they will install right into the stock air box.

Mikuni sells four different length stacks for their carbs. The ID fits right onto the Hayabusa throttle body. The OD fits right into 900 RR boots.

Jonny Hotnuts · « **Reply #65 on:** June 29, 2007, 11:09:03 AM »

For anyone that has the FP stacks (I have a set on my car) I noticed that there is a lip on the boot that needs to go on the inside of the TB's (not on the stock boots). I noticed when I pulled the airbox off the motor that the FP boot lip did not look consistant and found that it was because the lip was catching on the TB and cause it to fold up unside the TB. This caused it to roll up and make a bump inside the airway (had this on 3 of the 4 tbs).

The only way I have found to install the airbox with the FP stacks is to install it without the stacks and use a finger to feel the inside of the TBs at the boot joint to see if the lip caught on the side of the TB and pick it out so it lays flat and then install the stacks.

Sort of a pain.
I will bet that there are plenty of FP stacks out there that are loosing HP because this boot lip is rolled up.

SLEEPERBUSA · « **Reply #66 on:** July 06, 2007, 01:13:25 PM »

Quote from: ACE PERFORMANCE aka THE ICE MAN on June 15, 2007, 02:17:27 PM

Quote from: The Olde King on June 14, 2007, 11:56:22 PM
Last season I bought a set of Chet's custom short stacks, took it to the dyno and found that they cost me a couple of ponies on the top and about six through the middle rpms. This was AFTER remapping to them. Switching back to all OEM shorts brought the power back to where it was prior to making this change, so I conclude that, at least for my particular set-up, they did not work.Mine is a 1397 with a ported( Sharkey) head and .385/252 Megas on both sides, degreed to 105/107. The pipe is a TiForce Sumo. Small modded box w/BMC race filter.

I had the same results !
I went slower !

I hate to hear that.
I have almost the same setup.

gsteve1 · « **Reply #67 on:** July 06, 2007, 01:16:57 PM »

remember.. some of you guys are talking about stax other than he factory pros. They are different. I have the fp's and think there is some extra power now. I cant prove it as my buddy with the 12r i gauge my mods against has demodded it. I know my front end gets liter longer when i shift into 2nd now. sj

glenn71 · « **Reply #68 on:** July 12, 2007, 07:14:16 AM »

update on the stacks.I lowered the bike and did a 9.9 on a slippery track stock gearing and length about 710lb all up.Whats interesting is i make max power at 9800 coil rpm and shift accordingly.Others have all shorts with 16/42 gearing and shift at 10600-10800 coil rpm(there max power point with intake on exhaust mod) and they couldn,t match my mph 143mph to 139-141mph.So yes absolutely they make less power over 10000rpm but there torque more than makes up for it by walking them on the top end.Dyno charts aren,t everything.

glenn71 · « **Reply #69 on:** July 14, 2007, 06:01:56 AM »

I noticed dads dyno printout of factory pros,sumo and yosh cams is on the factory pro web site.Great gains with the yosh cams up to the same rpm as my bike with stock cams.I know it depends where they are dialled in(i don,t know) but i thought the change in duration is meant to change the max rpm point.It appears stack length very much determines the rpm of max power.

glenn71 · « **Reply #70 on:** July 18, 2007, 07:11:15 PM »

9.85@143.3mph 1.70 60ft 712lb allup,stock gearing,length with wheelspin and a missed shift.They can,t be too bad.

gsteve1 · « **Reply #71 on:** September 15, 2007, 05:42:51 PM »

So no one has ran these on a dyno yet????

mountainmotor · « **Reply #72 on:** September 15, 2007, 06:11:55 PM »

Quote from: gsteve1 on September 15, 2007, 05:42:51 PM

So no one has ran these on a dyno yet????

Stock Busa with a pipe . Blue line is using 4 OEM short stacks and per the original post as I recall

gnd111 · « **Reply #73 on:** September 15, 2007, 10:28:47 PM »

Happy dyno....LOL

mountainmotor · « **Reply #74 on:** September 16, 2007, 11:14:07 AM »

A generous dyno for sure and i about wish I had not even posted the graph cause it appears 91octane was used with the FP stacks and 87 octane for the OEMs a few days later and questions about actual air/fuel ratio with the second go round was never answered .

Kinda confusing , the details so instead of deleting the graph here's the link to the thread it came from -

http://hayabusa.org/cgi-bin/busa/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=41;t=65079

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Author Topic: factory pro hayabusa stacks (Read 31974 times) Tweet